Looking at getting a new scope…
Hey guys I’m trying to find a good scope for around 400 dollars. I HATE front focus parallax adjustment! Hate it! So it must be side focus. Also IR would be good as I shoot rabbits at night.
I was planning on getting the MTC Viper 6-24×56 but I can’t find any reviews on what it’s like. All I hear about is biased opinions on how bushnells are about 1000000 times better (which can’t really be true).
Any help is appreciated
Patrick
All Replies
Quicker and dirtier is to just turn the knob all the way ’til it stops. Then start turning it the other way while counting the clicks. When you reach the end of the knob’s travel at the other end, divide the amount of clicks you counted by two. Then turn the knob back in the opposite direction by that many clicks. Repeat with the other knob.
Quickest and dirtiest, instead of counting clicks (which can number in the hundreds depending on the scope), find a reference point on the knob once it’s turned all the way in one direction, then just count full rotations of the knob (and any final fractions thereof) while you’re turning to the other side. Again, divide by two, and then back it up towards center by that amount.
Precision in scopes is a matter of personal taste of course… but I’ve found that this method gets me “pretty damn close” with little hassle… then I just dial in the final W/E clicks while sighting in. I’ve never had to click too far from my “optical center” to get the ‘hairs on dead-center.
Just another suggestion.
Walt, I dislike the leaper mounts because they leave a sticky residue on the scope, which I don’t feel like cleaning off if I ever sell it.
I’m not completely sure what optically centering the scope does… Won’t you just be moving the crosshair again to zero the scope?
I’ll try out the mirror technique it sounds pretty simple. But how will light get in if the scope is flat on the mirror? Sounds like you would see nothing through the scope?
Pat
I’ve tried this technique and if you have a decent mirror, it seems to be a quick and dirty way to get a scope optically centered. YRMV. – Bob
http://www.network54.com/Forum/419052/message/1211754299/Optically+centered+scope+by+J+Bruse+Aurand
You will see the crosshairs and you should also see a reflection of the crosshairs as well. All you have to do is to turn each of the knobs until they match up perfectly! It is that simple! Very effective, fast and easy to explain and to setup etc.
A similar mirror technique is used to align telescopes.
Give it a try! You can also place 3 washers on the glass to raise the scope up a bit to increase the amplification of the alignment difference. Just place them so that the end of the scope is firmly on them and is stable. It won’t matter if they protrude into the image.
Below are some questions and answers from responses to the original post and threads from that post. Thanks to all that contributed! (I admit to plagerizing your posts!! LOL!)
Never had to centre my scope before, though I usually buy good ones…
Always been able to shoot out to 100 yards with no problems. 😕 ( rabbit sized targets)
Know plenty of shooters who centre theirs, but they have never shot any better than me. 8)
Out to 200-300-400 yards then it gets alot more crucial. You planning on shooting that far?? 😕
Hi Patrick. That’s a lot to pay for mounts. Actually, for noncritical applications (i.e., all my airguns) I buy the cheapy leapers mounts now; try Amazon.com and just put Leaper scope mounts or something like that. They are knockoffs of the Beeman stuff and so far I’m pretty happy with them. They are also way cheaper. Amazon actually sells them through Pyramid, I think, but when you buy them through Amazon you don’t pay the horrendous shipping charges that Pymrid applies, so a lot cheaper. I think around $11 or $12 for what you had listed.
You WILL have to optically center your scope. Actually, the cheaper scopes show a much bigger benefit from doing this, but you should always do it. It may be a pain in the ass, but you’ll love the results. Cheap glass usually has a sweet spot in the center of the image, so when you adjust the windage and elevation, you are no longer looking through the center, which is almost always a much better view than the periphery. On expensive glass this effect is usually much less pronounced, except for my Burris I’ve noticed is bad on the extremes and it’s a mid level priced scope.
You don’t have to spend much to ream and hone your rings. You can do it with some sandpaper wrapped around a 1″ hardwood dowel from the hardware store (for 1″ rings). You’d need to have someone make you a 30mm honing rod, though, out of the next size bigger hardwood dowel.
good luck,
walt
Those 2 piece mounts will be fine. You don’t need to get some all singing all dancing mounts with uber blah blah blah.
Get the scope, get the mounts, strap ’em on the rifle, get ya’ ass on the range and zero it!!
Occasionally you will find a scope needs shimming, not often but easy to do if needed.
If the mounts are half decent(seem to be ), the rail is good (we know it is) and the scope is a good un’ (you’ve done your homework!), then its a 20 min set up from box to shooting clovers…. 😀
Am I going to have to optically center the scope? It sounds extremely complicated and is there any big advantage?
One piece or two piece mount? Adjustable or fixed? I just wanna get it right the first time and make sure I don’t regret any purchase.
Damn, the SS overprice stuff like they are the only ones out there. For instance, Beeman 1 pc 1″ mount is $69 compare to $59 at PyramydAir plus 10% discount deals… no brainer here.
Go for the first set if you ask me. Look meatier, got two allen bolts per mount and a wider grip width.
Any reasons not to get either of these two mounts?
http://straightshooters.com/beeman/bm50312piece30mmfixed.html
http://straightshooters.com/bsquare/b210130and101372piece30mmadjustable.html
Just trying to make sure I don’t throw away 45 bucks, ya know?
Anybody heard anything about them?
I just got run of the mill mounts for my viper. Works fine.
Hawke 30mm mounts IIRC
I’m gonna be mounting them on the AF tri rail. And airgun dovetails are 11mm as far as I know so if it doesn’t work on yours I doubt it would tighten down on mine. But thanks. 😀
Which mounts are good? Do I need to get adjustable mounts?
Pat,
On 6x I put the cross hair on the neck out to 50yds. The pellet will hit in between the +1 mildot and crosshairt….very easy and fast.
I’ve got a set that don’t tighten down enough to grip an airgun rail. Depends what you gonna mount it on. You can have ’em if you think you can use them 😀
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
For 1″ scopes I just do an “about” centering by picking a reference point on the knob. On 30mm scopes I usually count the clicks because they have a greater range of motion and I lose ocunt of how many times the knob has turned.
After centering the scope, you have to shim it to get it close to your point of aim.
Use the elevation and windage only to move it that last litlte bit.