Lurker #1
Several days ago I got an e-mail from Lurker #1 asking if I’d like to do breakfast and maybe do some shooting. I didn’t know it but he’s 1 hour away. Well after he said he’d buy I said hell yes, why not. So we met this morning at Bob Evans in Findlay and had a nice chat. Afterwards we headed to my place to punch some paper. We got talking about Hoots vent holes for his Vulcan and decided to do his.
Here’s Lurker #1 taking apart the schroud…..
Taking the baffles out……..
he wanted me to do the drilling, I said hell no it’s your gun you screw it up.
Checking it out after drilling……
it was a great time and we did a lot of shooting. Look out Ernest you may be getting another Vulcan to tune……..
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Somehow I screwed up a couple days ago and besides taking a zinc supplement on an empty stomach I lost a couple Vulcan files on my stupid smart phone.
The zinc caused me to sweat and puke profusely.
The data loss caused me to reconstruct my fun file of maintenance and Mods. In case I should loose it again and because you may feel you missed out on my puking, I figure I’ll burden you with keeping a copy of my reconstructed file. You may consider yourself lucky because the original was longer :rofl:
Some of the following were my own ideas after being inspired by some very skilled contributors here on TAG.
.22 VULCANf
MAINTENANCE & MODS:
1) Honed the contact edges of the Bolt Guide Slot.
2) Changed Bolt to Right side for more stable and natural cocking.
3) Honed & Polished Safety Slide & CORRECTED Safety Adjustment via 1 1/2 Turns Shorter of Rear Trigger Rod Clevis (Clevis Locking Nut #100 is not there and is not needed). This allowed the Safety to be properly set before cocking.
Afterthought: I had adjusted the Rear Clevis in two stages but I believe it would be easier to disconnect the front Clevis from the Trigger.
4) Cleaned Bore good with Zonk’s PatchWorm KIT and help. Lots of shinny lead on first patch! Hard to pull through but no parts that break like a more expensive pull through that broke on first use.
5) Vented rear chamber of Suppressor at Zonk’s with his expert assistance.
6) Enlarger 5 Vents from 0.60″ to 0.96″. Zonk thought the 0.60″ was to small but I tried it then decided to enlarge them later at home.
Afterthought: maybe I’ve goon to far or not far enough with venting. It’s still experimental for me and only did 5 holes.
7) Lightened TRIGGER PULL via Trigger Rod Spring #89 adjustment collar #84. Adjusted Trigger Sear Latch at parts #74 & #75 (about 1/2 of OEM Trigger Stage 2 movement). Swapped Trigger Adjusting Screws #110A & #110B to get my desired Trigger Latch & Trip. Then for much lighter Trigger I discovered further improvement by Releasing most of the Tension of trigger Lever Spring #90.
This trigger seems very light but I’ll have Zonk check it and see if he thinks it will be safe. WARNING THIS LIGHT OF A TRIGGER CAN BE DANGEROUS especially for you guys that refuse to properly adjust and use the provided VULCAN safety :rofl: I LOVE IT but don’t depend on it alone!
8) Cleaned & Lubed Cocking Mechanism etc. with McNett High Quality Maintenance SILICONE SPRAY that Ernest uses to check things? It did a good job for me but I have a can of Super Lithium EP Moly Grease waiting to be opened.
I’m always at least half right half the time……
You´re actually half-correct, my Friend. This time. I don´t even want to start about my Lilja barrel – and that MF is a Swedish brethren …
Why are all you guys using a solvent? Is that really necessary to remove lead, since there is no powder residue or copper fouling?
And if the solvent really does remove even more lead than dry patches, why is THAT important? Doesn’t a barrel get most accurate and consistent again after it’s been “leaded in” again by 5-30 pellets?
I use both Gunzilla and Copperzilla……….it’s not about powder residue it’s about lead residue. Not all barrels have been hand lapped to give it a very smooth finish. On my Dan Lilja barrel it was hand lapped and is VERY smooth and very easy to clean, not all are like that.
both do there job, ones for loosening lead particles and the others for loosening copper particles. It also helps your patch slide or pull through your barrel more easily. Without any lubrication it would make it extremely hard to pull or push your patch through.
Just ask Lurker how hard it was to pull a patch through WITH gunzilla on the patch.
Why are all you guys using a solvent? Is that really necessary to remove lead, since there is no powder residue or copper fouling?
And if the solvent really does remove even more lead than dry patches, why is THAT important? Doesn’t a barrel get most accurate and consistent again after it’s been “leaded in” again by 5-30 pellets?
Think of it as this. You have dirty hands and walk up to the sink to wash your hands. You can either get them clean with water or with soap and water. We pretty much know which ones gets the job done faster and better.
Why are all you guys using a solvent? Is that really necessary to remove lead, since there is no powder residue or copper fouling?
And if the solvent really does remove even more lead than dry patches, why is THAT important? Doesn’t a barrel get most accurate and consistent again after it’s been “leaded in” again by 5-30 pellets?
In my experience, my rifles never have a point-of-impact change after cleaning their barrel; none of them has ever needed to be re-leaded. You’d think that with all my airguns (two Air Arms, a Kalibrgun, and the Condor I sold), at least one of them has to be seasoned before POI returns. The thing is, after a clean I wipe off the remaining oils/cleaning solvent on the barrel with alcohol followed by a couple of dry patches. Despite this, though, even shooting lightly lubed pellets right after, they never exhibit any change in POI.
I’m thinking the problem of POI change for some guns directly after a clean could be that some of the cleaning agent had dripped onto the transfer port, or the excess had not been completely wiped off. Then when the gun is shot right after, the cleaning agent is expelled along with the pellet, thus causing inaccuracy. I’m just providing my thoughts as well as sharing my experience. Take it or discard it however you wish. 🙂
Cheers!
Explain to me because I don’t understand:
Why are all you guys using a solvent? Is that really necessary to remove lead, since there is no powder residue or copper fouling?
And if the solvent really does remove even more lead than dry patches, why is THAT important? Doesn’t a barrel get most accurate and consistent again after it’s been “leaded in” again by 5-30 pellets?
My Gunzilla should be here when patchworm geta here. Excited for try it out
Sent from my Z30 using Tapatalk
I’m using Gunzilla. I found it at Camp Perry during the National Matches. They couldn’t keep it in stock, the small bore shooters love it.
So what solvent is everyone using with the patchworm?
I ordered PatchWorm set too. from 177 to 25 cal. I will see if I can pull loads of lead out of my barrels after I cleaned them with my regular setup. Wait and see. One nice thing is I can use my felts now instead of getting rod out. That just seemed too harsh.
So Zonkie get on with a presentation video. You can do it!
I knew you’d like it and i’ll be waiting…. :8:
Zonk,
I finally ordered the PatchWorm.
But not until I broke out my EXPENSIVE napier power pull through and tried it for the 1st time. :butkick:
Nothing nice happened with the napier.
I put a review of the napier in the General Topic.
Heck the Patchworm at half the price didn’t leave any lead and cleaned it so well that there still was no lead buildup after another 50+ rounds.
I ordered from PATCHWORM.COM and added a bunch of inexpensive goodies to pad the order.
Next trip through the Black Swamp I’ll bring my Caldwell chrono and Caldwell HotShot Shooting Chair.
I’m trying my Hawke 4-16 x50 NTE-EYE Digi-IR Side Focus scope on the Vulcan. It is lighter than the Aeon and I prefer the Hawke reticle.
That was totally unexpected. I wish I had realized what was done sooner. I feel very stupid for the moment.
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So Lurker you should have one heck of a nice gun now after you have rounded the edges and lube it up. I cleaned my 2 guns with patchworm this evening too. I did a post on it in the general section. My cocking system is broken in and very smooth considering its not a lever type action. There is no mechanical advantage on this system which makes it a bit tight to begin with. I use Hornady case lube on my cocking lever and mechanism. All in all I hope you enjoy your gun as I do mine. Just a joy to shoot. Nice and short I love it.