Q:

New Condor Valve

Started on this today. Had this idea and went with it. Making new condor type valve with larger stem. Will be .312″ with a .250″ or maybe .260″ hole. I’m finding the Blod type valves need a lot of hammer spring and condor valve doesn’t. Changed the spring retainer threads and the front to make room for larger stem and o ring. Have to remake the brass piece. I actually made it before the body just to check on single pointing the threads.

Mods/Machinists

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quote Dyotat100:

You have a blod type valve? It is adjustable with shims under the tophat to limit travel.

Nope, I looked at the blod valve pics and mine looks different. I”ll post some pics when I strip the rifle again.
Mine can basically adjust when you turn the tophat out, it turns against the little delrin seal. When turned the delrin stays in as a seal but the tophat/valve stem(one piece) protrudes a little more.
I hope you understand what I”m trying to explain 😕

You have a blod type valve? It is adjustable with shims under the tophat to limit travel.

quote PANDEMIC:

quote Dyotat100:

Well I decided to finish this valve and make the stem and stem seal. Made the stem and used a AF stem seal that I had not tapered yet. Did this the first time to see if it would work and see what I would need to do to make it a snug fit againt the breech. First time testing I got a best of 868 fps with 9 rings. Most of my 9 rings weigh 88.9 gr, so that got me up to 148.9 fpe. I took it back apart to make a seal that would make my breech fit tighter and I figured I would open up the 3 holes in the stem. With new stem seal and tight breech tophat is at about .130″. I will make a delrin spacer and put it in behind the tophat to get it down to around a .100″ and see if it changes anything. Will also keep it from being metal on metal contact. So second test I didn’t quite have enough air so I had to fire up the compressor and filled the bottle. So I only did one test and will fill my tanks tomorrow and maybe put the valve on a 62 ci tank. Well first shot with 9 rings was 886 fps which got me a 155 fpe. Im still 5 fpe away from what I set out to do. I might go a little bigger on hole in the stem. It is .250″ now and might take it out to .260″. I have another brass insert and will make it bigbore. .375″ stem with a .3125″ hole.

Question to Dyotat100,
I assume you press the delrin over the valve’s stem?
My rifle has the delrin threaded so that the valve stem screws onto it, it gives me a little more adjustment for a more air.
I bought the rifle secondhand and are unsure if it came standard like that?

quote Dyotat100:

I make a couple now and then. I’m in the process of having them made on CNC.

Takes me around 5 hrs from start to finish to make one.

They are $250 with hammer spring. You need 100 gr hammer. Setup with .100″ tophat and with 24″ barrel will push a 70 gr slug around 950 fps.

Those pics are of the first one I made. That valve pushes the 7 ring slugs over 1000 fps.

New version is 1144 body and all other pieces are 304 stainless. No brass.

Can you ship Internationally to me? I’m in Asia, Indonesia to be specific.

my daq barrel yielded about 220 fpe where my 60$ .308 from midway gave me 200 fpe everything else being the same (length, valve etc…) accuracy was almost the same, with the daq grouping just a _tiny_ bit better

FairlyInconspicuous,

As Doug said, we make .308s from Lee molds and we use near pure lead. The 116-7gr flat tip has the best accuracy rep so far from DAQ barreled guns (according to just feedback provided to me plus my own DAQ barreled Condor) but the 120ish gr round nose is close. The bigger slugs probably work great at hunting ranges but have not been reported as tack drivers at 100+. That said, there’s darn few (but a notable few) that actually get shots at those ranges.

Some other sources have been provided above. I suspect the big guys can beat our prices handily but I’d check on the alloy and rep before ordering.

BTW, I note that .309 being the most accurate out of a .308 DAQ barrel is consistent with every other bit of feedback from owners I’ve heard. I usually recommend sizing to .310 for DAQs but my .310 die runs a touch under…

I make a couple now and then. I’m in the process of having them made on CNC.

Takes me around 5 hrs from start to finish to make one.

They are $250 with hammer spring. You need 100 gr hammer. Setup with .100″ tophat and with 24″ barrel will push a 70 gr slug around 950 fps.

Those pics are of the first one I made. That valve pushes the 7 ring slugs over 1000 fps.

New version is 1144 body and all other pieces are 304 stainless. No brass.

quote Dyotat100:

Well I decided to finish this valve and make the stem and stem seal. Made the stem and used a AF stem seal that I had not tapered yet. Did this the first time to see if it would work and see what I would need to do to make it a snug fit againt the breech. First time testing I got a best of 868 fps with 9 rings. Most of my 9 rings weigh 88.9 gr, so that got me up to 148.9 fpe. I took it back apart to make a seal that would make my breech fit tighter and I figured I would open up the 3 holes in the stem. With new stem seal and tight breech tophat is at about .130″. I will make a delrin spacer and put it in behind the tophat to get it down to around a .100″ and see if it changes anything. Will also keep it from being metal on metal contact. So second test I didn’t quite have enough air so I had to fire up the compressor and filled the bottle. So I only did one test and will fill my tanks tomorrow and maybe put the valve on a 62 ci tank. Well first shot with 9 rings was 886 fps which got me a 155 fpe. Im still 5 fpe away from what I set out to do. I might go a little bigger on hole in the stem. It is .250″ now and might take it out to .260″. I have another brass insert and will make it bigbore. .375″ stem with a .3125″ hole.

are you still making these valves ?? if you are how much???

quote Dyotat100:

Hunters supply is alright. Hard to beat the price. There slugs are on the harder side though. They need to add a few sizes. They go from 118 to 171 and nothing in between. My gun shoots the 171 fine.

Looks like you are shooting slugs cAst for firearms? Have you tried anything that was cast with almost pure lead? I cast my .308 slugs with almost pure lead.

I was told that the Hunter Supply 308s are pure lead and are cast for airguns. I have cast many out of Lee lead and cannot tell much difference in my homemade 308. My homemade gun has a standard DAQ barrel, I size to .309″.

Hunters supply is alright. Hard to beat the price. There slugs are on the harder side though. They need to add a few sizes. They go from 118 to 171 and nothing in between. My gun shoots the 171 fine.

Looks like you are shooting slugs cAst for firearms? Have you tried anything that was cast with almost pure lead? I cast my .308 slugs with almost pure lead.

quote FairlyInconspicuous:

Where does one source .308 pellets?

Couldn’t find any on pyramid.

Here are some I use.

http://www.hunters-supply.com/shop/index.php?cPath=27&osCsid=265517e6233c113161d01ea54722a208

http://www.moyerscastbullets.com/pricelist.html

http://www.bigboreairguns.com/specialtybullets.htm

The Bull Shop
PO Box 245
Saco, MT 59261

bullshop@nemont.net

http://gardnerscache.com/30carb_115_lrnbb.html

My main source is hunters-supply.

You have to shoot slugs. Jerry sells .308 slugs. I started with Jerry’s and have moved on to casting my own. It is fun making your own bullets. I have 3 molds, 116 gr FP, 120gr RN, and a 158 gr FP.

My .257 barrel showed up yesterday so I will be getting some .257 molds here soon.

Where does one source .308 pellets?

Couldn’t find any on pyramid.

It’s amazing how a good night sleep can bring clarity to a problem.

There are several things different in my gun setup, but the one creating a problem is the spinlock that I had added. Notice how my breech is hitting the spin lock and only moving the tophat .075″.

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