question about edgun airtube and barrel freefloat
are the barrel and air tube suppose to free float when gun is out of stock there is about an eighth of an inch at the breach end
between shroud at the very end of the barrel and air tube gage there is approxmentley a sixteenth of an inch . when you put the gun
back in the stock and tighten it down the very end of the barrel and air tube touch as you tighten when gun is out of stock I noticed that there is
about a Sixteenth of an inch or thirty second of play around the main piece that looks like a figure eight that hold the gun together along with the weaver rail
i’m sure there is suppose to be play around this area so when the gun is dissembled to allow it to slide apart
when you tighten the gun down it pushes the air tube against the barrel therefor no free play at end of barrel the gun is a new model R3M 22 CAl .
is this normal or not? kind reguards frank
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Thanks Sir Ville, that’s what I’m doing putting the baffles in the exact position but it will be snug tight and touch the tubes.. so far i’m not having any problem in POI will try also just to hand tight it letting the baffles in any position and see if there is any change in POI.. everything else I will just leave it as it is.
Hmmm….try marking one side of the baffle then hand tighten and see what position the baffle is. Then using the wrench tighten where you think it was originally…note the position of the baffle and either A: attempt to tighten further to the position where when it’s hand tightened the baffle cover doesn’t touch or B: loosen to that position.
Are you using a vice to tighten/loosen or some other method?
The barrel should stay at the same exact position when tightened down – if all the spacers and holes in the shroud & muffler are perfectly round and perfectly centered.
Thanks for the advise Btang.. just notice if just hand tight my barrels free float but when snug tight to the original position where the solid portion is on the top the shroud touches the air tube even it’s not yet fitted in the stock.. will try what you’ve posted and see if it will work.. thanks again..
Just want to ask when tightening the baffles does it need to be in a certain position? Like the 2 solid portion that holds the baffles should it really be in the top and bottom position or it can go sideways or anywhere? thanks..
I don’t think it needs to be in a certain position. Just needs to be snug…make sure you put some anti seize compound on the threads. I usually end up with the solid portions being 12 and 6 o’clock.
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Hello Guys,
Just want to ask when tightening the baffles does it need to be in a certain position? Like the 2 solid portion that holds the baffles should it really be in the top and bottom position or it can go sideways or anywhere? thanks..
My stock slash trigger gard screw was the short one.. tried the washer which worked, however. It caused the action to rock in the stock sanding the inlet worked best 4 me.
Here’s some pics of the method Strietwise mentioned….it worked like a charm!
Before:
After:
I had to cut the sides of one washer to fit in the trigger guard:
Then I put a washer inside the stock…haven’t yet glued to the stock.
I can tighten it up and no movement, I didn’t sand down the stock either…just removed that little pad that’s glued to the stock.
Didn’t cost me anything. On one of the guns the oem parts could be used /reworked. On the other it was necessary to make a new distance and that was done for free too. Dr Evil did it with his Lathe. I sold him one of the guns and he took care of it. He reworked the shroud and muffler housing and made a new distance.
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Sir ville ,, how much did it cost you to get those parts fixed? Were they able to remachine the parts that were out of round, or did they have to make new parts?
Why wouldn’t i admit that? If i had a problem with my Cricket i’d tote it out as well.
The list for those out of round parts is:
The spacer between the scope bridge/ shroud , the shroud itself and the muffler housing. I’m far from only one having those issues.
I’m very familiar with stock bedding and pillar bedding so you have nothing to teach me about neither. I can almost quarantee that if those guys with problems with changing POI check these connections i mentioned they’ll find the same thing. I didn’t have a bad experience with one EdGun – i had that with two. And whether i bring it up in an appropriate post or not is up to me.
When i find shortcomings on a Cricket i’ll bring that up as well but thus far i have nothing to report except those shitty OEM o-rings and the play dough bolts (same sub-par bolts also found on EG – seems to be a Russian thing) .After all i have no financial / emotional interrest of any kind on neither brand.
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Out of round and off center?
What and where?
The only poor machining I have ever seen on the EdGun was found in some of the steel breech models. The breech was replaced and those issues have gone away. The R3M had some over machined parts (the indexing level mainly), but the quality of the machining has been just fine…
This issue with the stock has nothing to do with the metal parts. And the stock is not made by Edgun either.
Powder burners are notorious for having shit stocks. Bedding was to fix the oem stock issues in order to get the proper accuracy from the rifle. Pillaring is done to get rid of the wood parts being compressed under the action.
We get that you had a bad experience. You don’t need to bring it up in every single Edgun post.
Oh and just for the record my Cricket shroud isn’t concentric… That would make Crickets shit too then. :angrymob:
Ah, but you won’t admit that will you. 🙄
This issue here has nothing to do with wood shrinking. Bedding is done to give the action a steady and uniform plattform , kind of.
The issue i’m referring to is very badly machined parts, wiseass. 😉
Nothing is exaggerated here. A gun at this price range shouldn’t have parts machined out of center and out of round – which they are, in (too) many cases. I’m talking about the metal parts here, as i guess you already know.
Or do you have another word to describe parts far off tolerances ??
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Shimming the airtube when it’s supposed to free float is certainly not the answer, I agree with that.
People have been bedding and pillaring powder burners for ages to get that extra bit of accuracy, guess nearly every powder burner made was “badly machined” too… :2:
Wood compresses, shrinks, expands and does a world of other things as it crosses continents and oceans. “Badly machined” is an over exaggeration and you know it…
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Hmmm….try marking one side of the baffle then hand tighten and see what position the baffle is. Then using the wrench tighten where you think it was originally…note the position of the baffle and either A: attempt to tighten further to the position where when it’s hand tightened the baffle cover doesn’t touch or B: loosen to that position.
Are you using a vice to tighten/loosen or some other method?
Original position is 12 & 6 o’clock which is snug tight.. hand tight it will be in the 10 and 4 o’clock.. and have good gap from the tube but did not tried it thinking of pellet chipping.. as for using a vise when tighten/loosen it… no i did not use any just did it all while it is fitted in the stock..