question about edgun airtube and barrel freefloat
are the barrel and air tube suppose to free float when gun is out of stock there is about an eighth of an inch at the breach end
between shroud at the very end of the barrel and air tube gage there is approxmentley a sixteenth of an inch . when you put the gun
back in the stock and tighten it down the very end of the barrel and air tube touch as you tighten when gun is out of stock I noticed that there is
about a Sixteenth of an inch or thirty second of play around the main piece that looks like a figure eight that hold the gun together along with the weaver rail
i’m sure there is suppose to be play around this area so when the gun is dissembled to allow it to slide apart
when you tighten the gun down it pushes the air tube against the barrel therefor no free play at end of barrel the gun is a new model R3M 22 CAl .
is this normal or not? kind reguards frank
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Good point. I don’t know about others but for me this issue wasn’t affecting poi. I only shoot out to about 20yds though. It was more cosmetic to me…I liked seeing the gap between the shroud and the cylinder. I tested this yesterday where I barely had any tension on the screw, took a shot…then gradually screwed in and it never moved. But again that was only 20yds.
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The action on my gun was compressing the rather soft wood and I ended up with a thin shim to spread the force round the stock screw and by doing that the tube came up enough to positively clear the wood in the stock.
Dr.:evil:
My :2cents: : Shimming and sanding things is just a band-aid fix against the real issue if the issue is those badly machined parts. In my book – if you need to shim the airtube you´re forcing it out of its natural alignment and thus you create tension. You – or at least i – don´t want that. It´s best to attack the source of the problem instead – wherever it may be.
I didn’t have success with the aluminum can…it still would creep down when tightening the stock. I did have success in doing something similar to strietwise but instead of using washers I used o rings…1 where the screw makes contact with the trigger guard and another inside the stock between the block and the stock. I also removed that little piece of cushioning on the stock. Now I am able to get it good and tight with out the shroud moving.
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I tried plastic and metal shim didnt work 4 me had to sand inlet.,,
With aftermarket parts like Donny’s carbon shroud one would hope the the alignment is correct and true but it’s worth to do that simple test of loosen and re-tighten, mark the pieces and rotate a little bit to see if it change the alignment of the barrel, mine did (original) and i had to machine it and make new parts to get it right.
By the way Donny, I did the same but with some tape (glasfiber tape for electrical insulation) instead of alu can then it stays in place when U take it apart. Works well and no need to sand down the stock, may be necessary for some but this is far easier to begin with.
Dr.:evil:
Do this test : Mark the exact position the barrel is when tightened down with the muffler “nut”/ barrel stretcher screw. Then unscrew the barrel. Now reassemble again and tighten the muffler nut/barrel stretcher nut again. Check if it still touches or touches even more. If that´s the case take a good look at everything and you may find oval and / or out of center parts. This makes it virtually impossible to tighten the barrel down so it always points exactly the same.
Ok fellaz I figured it out. Well in the case of my gun that is. First I’ll say that when I received my gun from Tony, the shroud was free floating. Not sure if it was due to constantly taking off the stock that eventually stretched out the brace that holds the barrel/air tube and causes the airtube to have wiggle room to move up.
Here is a picture of my figure 8 brace, you can see the gap.
I took a beer can and cut a small piece. Had to fold it twice and it fits perfectly into the gap. I actually had to push it through pretty hard. But there is no more wiggle room.
You really can’t see it when the shroud is on unless you’re really looking for it.
and here is the gun put back together and trigger guard tightened.
So before you start shaving your stock, see if this works first. I have an 8 inch LDC and the Combro attached to it and the shroud is still free floating.
I had the same problem. I fixed it by adding a washer on the bolt that holds the stock to the breach. I put the washer between the trigger block and the wood stock. I used a little epoxy to keep the washer locked to the stock so I don’t have to mess with it every time I take the gun appart.
fixed problem////had to sand and fit 30 to 45 min from where barrel band goes in stock inlet to end of forearm. removed 5-7 thous. air tube now air tube free floats from arm :biggrinn:
thanks Donny ill try and see what I can come up with to try and fix the problem///
thanks for the links :biggrinn:
This is so funny…I’ve been doing a LOT of tuning to my R3M…I’ve finally got it where I want it and now I noticed this issue of the shroud coming in contact with the cylinder, I was searching for this thread: http://www.talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=28390 and sure enough you guys are on topic!
Might try this or go try to shorten a screw or washer or o-ring….
You have to shave down the spot where the air tube rests on the stock. Don’t go too far or the action will be loose in the stock.
Some say the trigger guard screw pushed up against the air tube but this is not the case, the air tube free floats in a ring that is integral to the front scope housing and the trigger guard screw CAN’T touch the air tube because the threaded hole does not go all the way through (at least on mine it doesn’t).
Attachments:
Highland checkout this thread: http://www.talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=26671&hilit=trigger+guard
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If you have this nagging issue you´ll see how the barrel at first touches the airtube when you torque it just a little. Add a bit more torque and it gets clear. Little more and it may point to your right or to the left. Little still and it points … your quess is as good as mine. That is only fixed by taking all those bits (muffler,shroud and distances) to a machine shop so you get them properly done so the holes are perfectly round and centered. Or you do the “Doc” and go buy your own lathe and do it yourself. I got tired , gave up and went for shooting PB´s for a couple of months. Then i fixed the gun and sold it.
If your barrel doesn´t point all over when you apply different torque on it you´re probably fine. Shooting out at 20 yards doesn´t reveal much though – except if you happen to own a Hatsan. Good grief …