R3 .30 caliber problem and fix
The Problem:
I first noticed after about 2K rounds my velocity dropped off. That can be common, sometimes the HST needs to be readjusted. So I screwed in the HST 1/4 turn and I was back at the 890 fps I was before. I was fine for about another 150 rounds until the real problem started. The gun started behaving erratic when trying to find zero on my target. I put the Matador on the chrony and I found a strange phenomenon. When the gun was full (220 BAR) no manner where the HST was set the most I could get out of the gun was 750 fps. As the pressure in the reservoir dropped the speed conversely would rise until below 150 bar the speed was at 912. I concluded that the valve must be stuck and the reason for the change in speed is that the valve gets more resistance from the air in the reservoir the higher the pressure. The valve must be allowed to move freely in the regulator. The belleville washers are clean, the O rings are perfect and the regulator is assembled correctly. What I found was the valve stem was slightly bent. I know this problem developed over time because the gun was super consistent when I was new. . The valve stem was not too long as it was in Ed’s factory specs. I straightened the valve stem reassembled the gun and I still had the same problem.
The fix:
what I found was the valve stem was slightly oversized and a little rough. Because the stem is steel and the valve stem housing is brass the valve was getting caught/sticking and in my opinion the valve couldn’t open enough. When the gun fell below the 150 pressure setting the valve didn’t have to work as hard to move forward when the hammer hit the stem. I polished the valve stem with 220/20/400/600/800/1200/2000 grit paper on a lathe until I could see my reflection in the valve stem. The valve moved like it was on ball bearings inside the housing. The regulator gave me 24 shots with the average at 880 and the ES at 2.6 fps.
I welcome any criticism you may have about my fix. It’s is possible that I just got lucky. Hell, it’s better to be lucky than good anyway.
All Replies
That 650 fps is the neighborhood I remember a lot of them at. Mine was one of the oddballs that was cranked up pretty high. I wonder if it was one of Ed’s test guns? It shot pretty well as it arrived.
When I got my gun it was shooting 650fps and I can prove it bc I made a post here of my first hunting trip with the .30cal, it should be somewhere here on the hunting section. Anyways, I kept that speed for a while bc it was death silence for a backyard gun. But later when I tried to adjust it to a higher speeds i couldn’t, even with a reg and new valve stem that tony sent me didn’t work. I think At least my gun came with a problem, it couldn’t pass 650fps. I just hopping to get this gun fixed, Brian I appreciate all your help and info brother, I owe you big time!
Dan Dan Dan
The plastic (Durlin) valve came with the original .30 whitch I understand u obtained from zeafus
Those valves were replaced with brass larger valves ( did zeafus not send u one?) 
because they were snapping many guys on here can vouch (many) for that :fishinghole:
Maybe Ed will chime in here preferably :fishinghole: :fishinghole: :fishinghole: :fishinghole: :fishinghole:
But the 4mm stem on a Durlin valve will it break yes (I’m goin on record) when nobody knows U don’t have the heaveier hammer so seems like your goin about this wrong fixing problems that didn’t belong to your generation of gun
Your current hammer lighter version wasn’t bending the valve even Ed said he made the hammer heavier without increase the valve stems diameter
Ok so u need a heaveier hammer
Then u need the brass metal valve I also would have had the sleeve set to 3mm just in case u need to go back to eds
Design but u now need the heaveier hammer or send off your have it weight increased to 512 grams
U now need a steel brass larger valve then get it modded to your now 4mm hole
Then several springs and a eight ball of meth to get al running together in harmony
Or u could have just waited for Ed to come up with the fix :rofl:
If they started low with a fresh stem that is a problem. Back then everyone was trying to crank them as high as possible initially. Most arrived set really low I remember so there was an effort to crank them up that went on for a while. Mine arrived hot and I didn’t like the slap and so I turned it down after maybe two or three shots. I just chrony’d it and it is at 865 fps.
Coda I think you may have just been lucky. The few I have spoken with all set their guns at 880 and the valve still busted
Right – on the Gen 1s they seem to do a lot better if you leave the speed about 875 fps or less. Many/most cranked them up I remember well and some broke stems even after 500-1000 shots. Mine was set at like 915 fps from Ed and maxed on the std I think and I turned it down immediately which has seemingly avoided problems up to 2700+ shots so far. I can remember the loud slap at 915 fps and it sounded like my .25 tuned up a bit. It is much quieter at 875 fps but the negative is you only get 75 FPE max. More than adequate for my coons, ground hogs, and smaller stuff but maybe the coyote or small hog folks wanted whatever they can get. I think it seems to shoot well at 875 but I believe that is near max for the stock gen 1s to make the stems last a lot longer. I remember someone had theirs eventually down to 860. You lose maybe 3 FPE but I sure don’t care. They seem happy there.
Dan you may not be aware that there are two different .30 caliber problems. In the first gen many users complained they couldn’t get speed and their valve broke after 2k rounds. I know someone with this problem. The first generation guns have a normal hammer. The valve stems didn’t bend because the hammer was lighter.
Eds fix for the R3 .30 was to make a large bronze valve and a heavy hammer in order to push through the 150 bar setting on the regulator. He changed the material to bronze because the delrin was snapping. With your modified valve in the photo the same problem will still haunt that gun. The reason why my valve stem was bending is because the hammer is 2x larger. The force is too much for the 2mm stem. So now you have a bomb proof stem but the valve body is still made from delrin
Exactly unfortunate Ed let these guns go with out testing brain fart or laziness?
Once I have it I will share more info. Ed made a mistake with his original design so what can I say? I don’t see any disadvantage to what has been done but testing will have to take place. Glad we are making progress either way.
Not sure on weight yet as I don’t have it.
I am having a 3 MM valve stem being made so it’s compatible with Eds new valve.The potential problem with Dan’s fix is it doesn’t address the original problem that ed had of breaking the delrin valve body. The top part of the the valve from ed is very well made. I don’t want to totally customize my Eddie so that parts from ed no longer work. Ed fucked up but my experience with Ed has been positive up to this point. I made that video so ed could see what my problem was. If ed moved to California I would have taken the gun to him in person. I believe in ed as an airgun maker and I caution you guys not to stray too far from his design.
Here’s the valve
Does the valve stem have the plastic part like in the old version of .30?
I think that the valve stem with higher diameter will give you more power because it has bigger circumference thus more area for the air to escape through the transferport. I believe that Ed ordered 3mm valve stem and yours is 4mm. I am interested in its performance when it comes to power to air consumption ratio.
Wow, that looks like that should fix the bending problem. How much does this valve stem weigh compared to the original?
I contracted with a gent out of the UK who does a lot of air gun work including regs. Let’s just say that based on what he did this is not a home made solution. Once I get it back and tested I will advise the forum and perhaps you can have another option to get your .30 working. I have been very impressed with his work and knowledge. This stem is hardened and is 4mm. Brass bushing goes thru to the port and is new too. Original was hard to remove as it was threaded and thread locked in. Fingers crossed!
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The plastic (Durlin) valve came with the original .30 whitch I understand u obtained from zeafus
Those valves were replaced with brass larger valves ( did zeafus not send u one?)
because they were snapping many guys on here can vouch (many) for that :fishinghole:
Maybe Ed will chime in here preferably :fishinghole: :fishinghole: :fishinghole: :fishinghole: :fishinghole:
But the 4mm stem on a Durlin valve will it break yes (I’m goin on record) when nobody knows U don’t have the heaveier hammer so seems like your goin about this wrong fixing problems that didn’t belong to your generation of gun
Your current hammer lighter version wasn’t bending the valve even Ed said he made the hammer heavier without increase the valve stems diameter
Ok so u need a heaveier hammer
Then u need the brass metal valve I also would have had the sleeve set to 3mm just in case u need to go back to eds
Design but u now need the heaveier hammer or send off your have it weight increased to 512 grams
U now need a steel brass larger valve then get it modded to your now 4mm hole
Then several springs and a eight ball of meth to get al running together in harmony
Or u could have just waited for Ed to come up with the fix :rofl:
Lmao. I got all that and that craptastic 14g valve bent right off the bat. I have the standard hammer too. Don’t need the big one. The Gen 1 stem was weak. Very weak. Stem was barely supported within the valve body material and was to small. Bound to break eventually. Even the new ones were getting worn out and bent in a few shots. Ed screwed the steel into the brass and used the delrin for a seal. Look at the KS cut away. Delrin is actually much stronger than brass. Impact and tensile There are a shit ton of valves out there with large stems properly fitted into delrin with no issues. It’s all about the design and how the parts get made and assembled. You can’t see the complete valve in the picture I posted . It’s robust believe me.
Anyway, it’s all academic until it goes in and gets some shots down range but I’m feeling pretty good about it. My guy knows his stuff.
Till then.
DT