Q:

Ruger 10/22

Just took my 10/22 out for a spin…. What a piece of crap…..
Trigger is 50lbs pull (I thought it was on safety)… And it shoots 6″ groups at
65yds. Or I shoot 6″ groups at 65yds with it…. It will defininitely not be pulled
out before the EDgun .25 for anything beyond 20yds….

Other Guns

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Viewing 15 replies - 31 through 45 (of 48 total)

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I’m with lama on this one. From what I’ve seen, even with mods to equal value to the CZ, it still does not shoot better.
I love the idea of a funky little .22 in semi auto being able to fart off 5 rounds quick time at 100 yrds but if it doesn’t hit what you are pointing at, whats the point??

quote synopsys:

Shit, let’s make it fair, I shoot the 223 and you get the CZ and we are shooting a spinner at 300 yards. 😉

What’s up with giving the better rifle an advantage right out of the box? 😕 Should I start calling you Rich from Mich? 😆 😆 😆

http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15925 😆

I wasn’t saying out of the box. Of course the cz will more accurate if both are out of the box, the cz costs a few hundred bucks more.

I’m talking about after you put barrels and triggers and stocks and everything else that people throw on a 10/22. It is no longer a cheaper rifle, it now costs close to what the cz does. But it still isn’t as accurate.

I agree that saying a better more expensive rifle is better is well… obvious. But once you spend a whole lot of money on a cheaper one, it is no longer a cheap gun.

Shit, let’s make it fair, I shoot the 223 and you get the CZ and we are shooting a spinner at 300 yards. 😉

What’s up with giving the better rifle an advantage right out of the box? 😕 Should I start calling you Rich from Mich? 😆 😆 😆

http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15925 😆

quote shaggy:

On teh range with people looking on Ive done it every day of the week . Even in breezy situations. A clay Pigeon at 100 yards is a hit every time. 😀 Thats why I don’t have the CZ, I done seen it shoot too, and it can’t beet the Rugger 1022 even at 25 yards. Facts are and evidence is, I done been there and seen it. They claim it on the ammo, and the wind, and the barrel prep, but I don’t have to use excuses, Just federal High power and dead center, point proved, and I don’t go to the range to prove it, I just like to shoot. 😀

I’d like to see that 10/22 against someone that knows how to properly shoot a cz. I have a 2″ metal spinner target that I can hit 50/50 times at 100 yards. It becomes about 3/5 hits when I start shooting shotgun shells at that range.

I’ve seen those 10/22 rifles that can be pretty accurate. But they don’t compare to a cz.

quote Tofazfou:

LOL,

YES, the 10/22 sucks in the STOCK configuration. That’s why they are all MODDED….LOL

Not too much difference between the ones made today and the ones of 10-15 year ago…..THE STILL SUCK.

SOrry bro.

The only gun Ive seen yet that will shoot one hole groups, and me looking at them personally as it happens is My own Rugger 1022 with the green mountain barrel on it. 😀
I know I see pictures and web sites showing those fantastic groups, but Ive seen em all. The best high powered rifle is the 22-250 Remington Varmint. And it shoots a 3 leaf clover style group at 100 yards.
Ive spent many hours on the range and as Ive said before, those police officers that shoots guns out of peoples hands can’t beet that shot, Ive seen it first hand. I’m speaking of the 1022 powder burner at 25 yards, I can light matches with it.
The factory barrel is not up to par, but to get a good gun and not send it all over the USA By a Fire arm Licensed dealer, is the Rugger 1022 with the green Mountain barrel shooting high powered federal Bulk Ammo.
I can put the pictures here dead center of the Bulls eye not a one hole group 3 inches high or 2 inches low, I’m talking about a one hole group in the center of the Bulls eye. But that don’t mean nothing because It’s just my word that I am the distance I say I am.
On teh range with people looking on Ive done it every day of the week . Even in breezy situations. A clay Pigeon at 100 yards is a hit every time. 😀 Thats why I don’t have the CZ, I done seen it shoot too, and it can’t beet the Rugger 1022 even at 25 yards. Facts are and evidence is, I done been there and seen it. They claim it on the ammo, and the wind, and the barrel prep, but I don’t have to use excuses, Just federal High power and dead center, point proved, and I don’t go to the range to prove it, I just like to shoot. 😀

LOL,

YES, the 10/22 sucks in the STOCK configuration. That’s why they are all MODDED….LOL

Not too much difference between the ones made today and the ones of 10-15 year ago…..THE STILL SUCK.

SOrry bro.

quote synopsys:

Lama, you didn’t file on a Jewell did you? 😯 😆

Just a little bit. 😯 😯

Haha, just kidding. Some triggers are properly made to where parts can be adjusted instead of filed. The JEWELL and the blaser trigger are like that, as was the trigger in the REM700 you have now. The jewell adjusted extremely well. My advice, never play with a blaser trigger, when you do, you won’t want to do anything else!! They actually have a little hole in the side of it where you can see all the parts moving and how they are contacting each other. It lets you set it on the very edge of everything. Mine has less than .5mm of movement in the trigger from cocked to fired, it is so little you can barely tell your finger actually moved. 😯

Others, however, have none or very little adjustments, and all you can do is file on them. Basically if it has a sear adjustment, you don’t need to do anything but that.

Oh, and MAM, I would do that, but I prefer an overly optimistic view where nothing could go wrong. 😆

And another bit of advice to anyone wanting to do any trigger work. Always perform every safety test a whole bunch after you adjust it. They include things like smacking the butt of the gun on the ground and turning the safety on and off. (in a rem700 trigger if it is adjust wrong, it works fine if you don’t use the safety, but when you have it on and click it off, the gun shoots without touching the trigger, just bang when you hit the safety :shock:) Also try moving the trigger side to side. With the bolt of the gun open and safety off, slam the bolt forward hard and make sure that doesn’t fire it. Probably a couple I missed, but make sure you do everything possible many times. You don’t want the first time you realize something is wrong to be out in the field with a live round in the chamber.

1″ at 50 yards? I’m working on 1/4″ at 50 yards… Oh the target get’s 1″ at 100, which is nice for a 10/22…

There is only one trigger for the 10/22 worth a shit (sub 2lbs).

The Volquartsen trigger is about 25% better than the stock trigger, I have one and for the $$ it is absolute fucking junk.

I think the good trigger is called the Jard. The only issue is the mag release is absolute crap (worse than stock)…

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=778958

If you can clean it properly you can easily replace the trigger… 😉

Ain’t no trigger like a Jewell. 😯 Too bad the 10/22 is not worthy of their attention… 😆

Lama, you didn’t file on a Jewell did you? 😯 😆

quote slayer5:

drop a trigger group in and and a green mountain barrel. I have 5 10/22’s and most will shoot one inch at 50 yards or better. I have two target grade heavy barrels that will do a little over an inch at one hundred yards. I still love my condors!

Let’s make it real easy… I’ll trade you mine for one of yours?

drop a trigger group in and and a green mountain barrel. I have 5 10/22’s and most will shoot one inch at 50 yards or better. I have two target grade heavy barrels that will do a little over an inch at one hundred yards. I still love my condors!

quote Mr-lama:

quote Marmot_Militia:

FWIW http://www.rimfirecentral.com will give you all the ideas you need for mods.

They have a great trigger mod that reduces the pull considerably. You have to re-profile the sear. There are very detailed instructions, but as with all things…Proceed with caution.

Jim

Yeah, I’m always terrified to do the sear thing. It helps tremendously, but do it too much and the thing won’t work anymore. 😯 Do it just right though, and you get a very crisp trigger. My cz is great now, super crisp. A lot of overtravel, but that’s because of how the bolt release works. But the initial part is super crisp.

File away!! Just not too fast. 😛

FYI….. If ya gonna work on a part and push it to the edge of disaster,
order a replacement and wait for it to come it before you start…

quote Marmot_Militia:

FWIW http://www.rimfirecentral.com will give you all the ideas you need for mods.

They have a great trigger mod that reduces the pull considerably. You have to re-profile the sear. There are very detailed instructions, but as with all things…Proceed with caution.

Jim

Yeah, I’m always terrified to do the sear thing. It helps tremendously, but do it too much and the thing won’t work anymore. 😯 Do it just right though, and you get a very crisp trigger. My cz is great now, super crisp. A lot of overtravel, but that’s because of how the bolt release works. But the initial part is super crisp.

File away!! Just not too fast. 😛

quote Marmot_Militia:

FWIW http://www.rimfirecentral.com will give you all the ideas you need for mods.

They have a great trigger mod that reduces the pull considerably. You have to re-profile the sear. There are very detailed instructions, but as with all things…Proceed with caution.

Jim

Thanks Jim but I think I am going to hang it right where my Crosman was
hanging and leave it that way… I will most likely wrap the barrel with some
duct tape for grip and, just use is as a club if an intruder breaks in…lol

FWIW http://www.rimfirecentral.com will give you all the ideas you need for mods.

They have a great trigger mod that reduces the pull considerably. You have to re-profile the sear. There are very detailed instructions, but as with all things…Proceed with caution.

Jim

Well once I laid down and put the butt plate in my crotch, I could lean back and exert
enough force to get it to go off..
Thankfully it doesn’t kick very much<<< He said in a high pitched voice 😯

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