Stock seem loose..
Is there a way to snug the gun to the stock up so that the gun doesn’t seem to teeter totter in the sock? It doesn’t seem to effect the way the gun shoots, however when I am carrying it I noticed some play in it. I checked the bolt by the trigger guard and that seems snug I didn’t want to over tighten it so the bolt snaps off any thoughts ❓
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The pressure vessel is the air tube. No need to thank me – a simple bottle of fine Scotch single malt is enough ! 😉
I have the problem were the gun will rise from the back…I added some foam in the back and in the front to have the gun sit level in the stock…which it does and I added the elastic round holder around the back stock to make sure it doesn’t rise….and I don’t have a problem anymore…..NOW do I want to take the steps I did to stop the problem no!!!! Should the problem be address by Ed…yes….but in the meantime ill stick with the solution I made.
Can you also explain to me whzts the pressure vessle or show pics.
I got three Edguns, two long & one slandered & they “all” suffer from a little play and I already told Ed of this issue, I did not yet investigate what’s causing the issue but I will when I get the time.
But yes it seems its a common problem with the new Edguns.
I would like to add that shimming is NOT a perfect solution to problem number 2 as this will have
the effect of tilting the action in the stock therefore the action will not lye in the same plane as the wood
inletting resulting in the rear of the action only contacting the wood hence rear crushing of the wood
inletting trust me i know what i am talking about i worked for 7 years in a pizza shop
By the way i forgot to add DO NOT listen to anyone else as i am the only one who knows what he is
talking about
Hello to all
firstly a big thank you to all on the site willing to help and give information willingly
may the Sun our only true god bless you all with its energy and warmth
i am new to this site and would like to respond to this anomoly with the stock problem to resolve
your issues
the problems are 2 DIFFERENT TYPES of problems:
1) if the bolts are too long and bottoming out in the bolt housing then there will be play/tilting
BETWEEN the stock and metal components.This will NOT have any effect whatsoever on allowing the
pressure vessel to migrate towards the barrel
2)if you do not have the above problem but your pressure vessel migrates towards the barrel as
you tighten the internal hex head then you either need to sand down/machine down ONLY the part of
the stock FORWARD OF THE LAST PART OF THE INLETTING i.e. the bit of wood which lies below the
pressure vessel with all the big holes in it.this will have the effect of making the pressure FREE FLOATING
which right now it is not and interferes with the stock as you tighten the bolt and this pulls down the
action and then crushes the inletting to drop the pressure vessel down even further resulting
In the vessel being elestically deformed from the holding ring forward
Stopped by my local gun shop and saw something I figured I could use…it’s a rifle round holder for the butt stock…but I did alittle tinkering and make a cheep peice out of it.
They do. They were very helpful and willing to me to Sweden so …
I´ll take some pics of my solution. A padded leather cheek piece cover i got from UK.
I’d love to get a nice cheek peice…let me know if they do international shipping.
It is weird. I must confess I did the washer under the head of the bolt and it fixes it (touching) and the stock does not rock (but it never did). Why it works eludes me now. 😕
Ahhaa !! Now you admit we were right all along. 😆 😆
I´ll take some pics of my solution. A padded leather cheek piece cover i got from UK.
Can one of you guys cut your stock in half longitudinally so we can watch the effect of the screw tightening? 😆
It is weird. I must confess I did the washer under the head of the bolt and it fixes it (touching) and the stock does not rock (but it never did). Why it works eludes me now. 😕
It might not be the prettiest….but it sure helps with my stock rising from the back…..I added some foam to the front of the stock and in the rear…now I’m applying downward pressure with some Velcro strips….and now I don’t have the creaking sound of the gun moving side to side and my stock doesn’t move up or down….I’d still like to find a more eye pleasing solution than this.
Well I tried the washer trick that didn’t seem to work, it was better, but I still have some play. I also lined the inside of the stock with felt, but it still has some wobble. A shorter screw didn’t work either I had some metric screws that was on an old Bow site tried those and still the same result. If I had to place a bet, it almost seems like it the guard that protects the trigger rod is teetering on wood, not where the screw is by the trigger guard.
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Guys, I have followed this post and I just haven’t had the time to reply. I have had a shift change and it has turned my world upside down.
I have owned 2 R2.5s and 3 R3s. The R3s would have the space between the air tube and the shroud reduced as the trigger guard screw was tightened. I tried a shorter screw, adding a spacer under the screw, tried adding a spacer between the inside of the stock and the trigger housing, none of them worked.
I came up with adding a couple of plastic shims between the top of the air tube and the inside bottom of the front scope rail mount.
Doing that allows the trigger guard screw to be tightened down and pull the air tube down into the stock without allowing the air tube/shroud gap to be lessened . I am not sure if the mod improves accuracy but: the gap doesn’t decrease and the action doesn’t move around in the stock like it will if you add spacers.
If you guys want to get really anal: I made a thin aluminum spacer to fit between the trigger block and the stock and I made this spacer for the hammer block
That is the only pic that I have of that mod. The thin alum piece that is under the HST locking screw is the piece that goes under the trigger block. The long screw goes thru the rear of the stock and into the part that is bolted onto the hammer block.
I had read that the changing pressures in the air tube could lead to a change in the POI as the pressure dropped. I gave it a try on my R2.5 25 long and the thing was amazing! The BSA barrel might have helped. The spacers kept the air tube isolated from the stock. The action only touched the stock at the trigger mount and the hammer block. To do this, you have to have everything lined up before you drill up thru the rear of the stock.
I did the same mod to my R3 25 long; I haven’t had the time to test it back to back between stock and my mod. Yet!