Q:

Stock seem loose..

Is there a way to snug the gun to the stock up so that the gun doesn’t seem to teeter totter in the sock? It doesn’t seem to effect the way the gun shoots, however when I am carrying it I noticed some play in it. I checked the bolt by the trigger guard and that seems snug I didn’t want to over tighten it so the bolt snaps off any thoughts ❓

EdGun

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Viewing 15 replies - 31 through 45 (of 46 total)

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I can see where the screw has run into the attachment block. There may have been a few rifles sent out with extra long screws but it doesn’t mean they pushed on the air tube or deformed the collar.

The upward force of the stock screw/bolt is stopped by the two horizontal screws that attach the cradle to the link housing.

There is no way that screw can change the shape of the cradle when the cradle part is screwed to the trigger link housing.

Can you post a picture of the cradle part so we can see the circle part?

My bolt is plenty short and the gap between the air tube and the shroud changes when I tighten the action into the stock. If the bolt is not contacting the cradle how is the air tube moving?

The air tube is moving because it hits part of the stock inletting when the stock screw snugs it down into the stock.

If you squeeze the air tube when holding the shroud you can move the air tube easily. The raised parts of the stock inletting push the air tube when the action is screwed into the stock.

I assure you it can… heres a demo.. if your bolt is too long and NOT over tightened, just nipped up.. the shroud touches the cylinder cap and the action rocks in the stock, It is possibly caused by the Trigger group bowing slightly putting pressure on the stock/cylinder:

Here you can see where it contacts the base of the cradle.. It should not touch here, if it does your stock screw is too long.

here is the same bolt tightened the same amount only this time it has a thick spring washer under the head to take up the extra length:

There is about an 1/8″ (3mm) clearance between the shroud now and all stock movement gone. I informed Ed of this issue awhile back and he told me the they are now fitting a shorter stock bolt.

CLICK ON THE IMAGE TO SEE THE WHOLE THING.

If you are changing the shape of the air tube cradle with the stock screw you need to put down the rifle and never touch it again!! 😆

One more time. Here is a 360 look at the two parts and how they are attached in a way that there is NO way the stock screw can EVER push on the air tube or change the shape of the air tube cradle.

YOU HAVE TO CLICK ON THE IMAGE TO SEE THE WHOLE THING…

Not only did I take it apart I photographed it and drew on the photos, did you see them?!

It is IMPOSSIBLE for the screw to push the air tube or squash the collar.

The picture I posted show these two parts (trigger bar and ‘cradle’) screwed together tightly. You would sooner strip the stock screw out before the collar/cradle mounting thing moved.

When you take everything apart you will see. 😉

Or maybe you wont. 😕

I never ONCE mentioned altering the stock, NEVER. I suggested adding some paper shims to see if it fixed the problem.

DO NOT ALTER YOUR STOCK! trust me its the bolt.. its can and does move the cylinder.. It pushes on the bottom of that cradle which lifts the tube which should actually free float in it. If you remove your trigger group you will see where the tip of the bolt has cut into the cradle. I will add pics shortly

Yep…

Check these images out. There is NO POSSIBLE way for the screw to push the air tub into the shroud.

Click on the image to see the whole thing:

Here is what pushes the air tube into the shroud. If the part that the stock screw goes in gets depressed into the stock these portions of the inletting will make the air tube hit the shroud.

Click on the image to see the whole thing:

Wood crush between the trigger guard and action. Over tightening a cause, not a cure.

Well I will give some washer a try then, sounds like an easy fix to me.. other then the stock movement this air rifle is truly a work of art. At 50 yard it out performs my .22lr target rifle. I have had a chance to get her out to 100 yards yet, but I am sure it will exceed my expectations. Had 2 raccoon making a mess in my garbage, they too where impressed with the rifle, however they wont be spreading it’s secrets anytime soon 😉

Screw is 21mm or 0.83″ long.

From the trigger guard top to the bottom of the hole in the band is 1″.

IF you bottom out the screw the band will not be displaced by the end of the screw. The band is screwed solidly onto the piece that has the hole for the stock screw. The screw will bottom out and not push anything up at all.

Test the length before you go cutting anything… Screw the screw all the way in (gently but don’t worry it can not get to the air tube) measure the remaining length or count the turns until it bottoms out (mine is 20) and then put everything in the stock and turn the screw while counting. If you don’t get to the bottom out number it is not bottoming out. Mine is snug at 10 turns, so it still has 10 turns to go before it bottoms out.

The same looseness can be gained in another way.

The air tube has to contact the stock (above the screw) in order to keep the rear of the action snug. So the band (with the stock screw hole) can be snug against the stock and tight but if the area where the air tube sits is not touching the stock then it’s not the screw length.

As the air tube hits the stock and the action is pulled further down into the stock the air tube will move and decrease the gap between the filler gauge knurled part and the shroud.

Mine starts with a nice 4mm gap and then closes up until it is a width of paper from touching.

Can we have measurements of the bad screws compared to what the regular ones are suppose to be…at least that way I can measure mine and see if I have this problem

It is caused by the stock fitment cap screw, there was a batch of them that were too long but it has now been sorted at the factory. If the bolt is too long it pushes against the cylinder cradle pushing the cylinder upward causing the bad stock fitment and often the cylinder touches the shroud at the muzzle. just fit a shorter screw or a couple of thick washers under the head and you will find your problem will be gone.

Check your fit of airtube into stock. Sometimes a little sanding of the bed is needed

My edgun did that also and found the mounting bolt was to long and was bottoming out on the mounting bracket so I shortened the bolt by about a 1/4 inch and all is good now.

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