Q:

Taipan Mutant vs. Edgun Matador R3

According to Wikipedia, the inland taipan is considered to be the most venomous land snake related to the cobra family. Taipans move fast and possess highly neurotoxic venom and other toxic substances, which paralyze victim’s nervous system and clot the blood. Taipans are considered some of the most deadly known snakes. One drop of the inland taipan’s venom can kill up to 100 men (bioweb.uwlax.edu). The inland taipan is shy and rarely attacks. The taipan mutant can even be more deadly based on what you have seen in the mutant turtles created by Kevin Eastman and Peter Laird.

Dman/Jaime and Ernest have posted very positive reviews on the Taipan Mutant – the mighty beast created in the Ukraine. The high air efficiency is intriguing to me, but it remains many mysteries concerning this particular strain of Taipan. Dman finally sent me his beloved Mutant to play with. Thanks Dman!

Here are my thoughts on the Mutant, and I intended to compare it with my “aged” Edgun Matador R3. I have to say it in the front that this is just my personal opinion on the comparison.

Machining: The machining of the Mutant is outstanding, very smooth, polished very well, no sharp edges and corners, and slightly glossy in the metal, outstanding finishing I would say. It looks and feels better than my R3s.

Stock: The quality of the stock is okay (i.e., serve the purpose). The Mutant stock is also well machined and shoulders comfortably for me. My R3 stock looks and feels better than the Mutant in appearance.

Hand Grip: The Mutant grip is very ergonomic and just the right size for my hands. It is very comfortable and no sharp edges. I like it much better than the R3.

Cocking: The lever cocking is butter smooth, effortless and flawless, period. The bolt cocking in my R3 is also very smooth after polishing and lubing the chamber.

Cocking Lever: The lever is ambidextrous. You can swap mutant lever to left or to right, a thoughtful design. R3?

Magazine Indexing: The magazine is very easy to install. It cycles very well but you will need to count the shot to know the last shot or you will need to put a marker/label on the magazine wall to tell where you are at. I had some dry fires without knowing the last shot. I have no experience with the Edgun magazine and its cycling, so no comparison on this.

Single-Shot Tray: The tray is easy to drop in, and very smooth. I don’t know if the single-shot tray is available for the R3M from the factory.

Scope Rail: The rail is very well made. My Burris Signature Z rings fit into it very well. The R3 rail has an angle to accommodate long-range shooting. But I don’t know if the Mutant has the same. I put on my SS scope and sighted it in at 30 yards without any problem.

Trigger: This is one of the best parts of the Mutant. Dman has turned the trigger really well, light, smooth, and crispy break. It is very consistent. This is much better than the R3s I have (both.22 and .25). The Mutant trigger is fully adjustable. Unlike R3, the first and second stage adjustments are independent in the Mutant. The tension for each stage is also adjustable. Did I say it is super smooth? The smoothness of the trigger makes you feel good and enjoyable during shooting. There is a tiny hole beside the trigger adjustment screws. I don’t know what that is for, but I think you can apply a needle drop of glue to that hole to prevent the movement of the screw to ensure the consistency of the trigger. Although I don’t use it, the Mutant trigger has a simple and effective safety. Overall, the Mutant is much superior than the R3 in trigger category.

Speed Consistency: I have shot more than 5 strings at different days and times. Dman adjusted his gun to shoot 880-890 fps, I consistently got 887-890 fps in mean velocity (from 6 string) with 2.0 to 2.7 fps SD and 7 to 13 fps in max spread. The shot-to-shot variation is within 2.0 to 3.0 fps, with majority of them at 2.0 – 2.2 fps. Based on my record, the Mutant is slightly better than my R3 in SD, max spread, and shot-to-shot variation.

Air Efficiency: Dman had 10.4 cc-bar/FPE in his string (see topic on “Meet the Taipan Mutant… update”). I believe he turned down the reg pressure a little bit (?). He tethered the gun with a large tank and closed the tank valve to use the large tank gauge for accuracy purpose. I read off the pressure change directly from the small gauge in the gun, and the calculated air efficiency is between 11.2 to 12.1 cc-bar/FPE (average 11.6 from 6 strings). In general, it is about 1.87 to 2 bar/shot (JSB 18 grain with 885-890 fps). The speed drops at ~118 bars. From 220 bar to 118 bar (or 115 bar in some strings), you will get ~55 shots with consistent velocity. My R3 has air efficiency ~12.2 cc-bar/FPE, which is close to the Mutant, but I have to said the Mutant edges out my R3. On the other hand, the R3 has larger air reservoir, and I can get 68 to 72 shots with 200-bar fill. Concerning the shot count, R3 wins. I don’t know if the Mutant air usage can be further “improved” by changing reg setting, hammer weight/spring, or valve spring…

Sound Report: The loudness is similar to that of R3, the Mutant may be slightly louder because of its high-pitch sound signature. This is very subjective…but the wife also says Mutant is louder.

Shroud: OD is 30.5 mm, shroud has some baffle inserts. The end-cap is a screw-in type, so it gives the possibility of installing an add-on LDC to further reduce the report. It is difficult to install LDC to the R3 without making a new shroud and adding adaptor for the LDC. In terms of the convenience of installing LDC, the Mutant wins.

HST Adjustment: Mutant has an external HST adjuster, very nicely made, easy to adjust and it is very responsive. There is a side screw to prevent the accidental turn of the adjuster. There is no HST preload on the spring so you can reduce the speed to zero if you want it to. In R3, you need to remove the stock to adjust HST, and the adjuster is difficult to turn and the thread of the adjuster is easily damaged by the little set screw (there is improved adjuster in newer version of the R3 and R3M). My R3 .25 came with damaged HST screw.

Air Filling: The fill hole can be closed by turning the cap, a very nice design, which R3 does not have. You can adjust the location of the fill hole in the Mutant. Dman didn’t send me the fill probe because it was not included in his original package. No problem at all because the probe is compatible with the Edgun probe. But the fill speed in the Mutant is kind of slow. I believe the fill speed is adjustable from the air-inlet screw in gauge assembly.

Pressure Gauge: Same as the Edgun air gauge (Kiwa).

Accuracy: This is the most important subject. A nicely made gun without accuracy is like a hamburger without meat. I am not a good shooter, I just wanted to find out what the Mutant is capable of in my hands. I normally shoot with bipods, but I specifically purchased the Caldwell front and rear bags to test Mutant accuracy. Although it is not thorough, at 30 yard one-pellet hole accuracy is achievable by the Mutant (see some groups in the picture). I tested it with different head size of JSB pellets from 5.46 mm to 5.51 mm (~18.1 grain). It appears that the Mutant likes 5.50-5.51 mm better (target #9 and #10). The groups seem to become larger for smaller head size (5.46-5.49 mm, targets #6, #7, and #8). At 50 yards, the Mutant is capable of producing 0.20” to 0.30” groups with 5.48 mm to 5.51 mm head, when I am in the good mood. The 0.3” to 0.4” group is very common (see some groups in picture). Those shootings were done under windy conditions and sometime with rain. The R3 LW barrel is specifically made to use JSB 18.1 pellets, but the spec of JSB pellet keeps changing and is inconsistent, head size from 5.46 mm to 5.53 mm (most recently was 5.47-5.48 mm), thin to thick skirt, different sizes and depths of head-base… which is very annoying and causes many fliers. My R3 only likes the “old-style” JSB (thin skirt, wider but shallower head-base, and 5.50 mm head size). My Edgun is the first generation R3, its barrel might be different from the newer models. Nevertheless, the Mutant is not that picky and much easier to shoot with compared to the R3. I like the Mutant better.

Conclusion: In some aspects, I feel that the Mutant is superior than my R3. Ernest said: “This thing put the Edgun and cricket in the back Seat‼” now I understand what he means. He also said, “1: All the negative things I know about the edgun and crickets you don’t see on the Mutant. 2: All the positive things I see on the Mutant I don’t see them on the edguns or crickets.” I don’t know about the Crickets since I don’t have one, but concerning the Edgun, R3 in my case, I agree with him.

Regards,
Endo

30-yard target:

50-yard target:

Taipan Air Rifles

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I just got one of the SUMOs as well on my Veteran .25 and I love it!! Accuracy hasn’t suffered at all and even for tighter. Check out my thread “Look what I got!!!”

Thanks Darryl. It is hard to tell the exact accuracy with the SUMO because of the high wind 20-25 mph and I didn’t pay attention to it. Will test it when the weather gets better and after receiving new o-rings.
Regards,
Endo

Endo it’s good to see that you’re still on it. Nice work, and thorough with the data, as usual. Thanks for sharing,
Darryl
btw, you’ll test Donny’s new design for an accuracy evaluation?

Got the most current version of LDC from Donny. In fact, I have several different types of Donny’s LDC for my P12, R3 Matadors and Mutants. I believe this one is the newest one, called “SUMO.” I am going to review this new SUMO vs. Donny’s earler version “OldBoy”.

The OldBoy is 1.5” ID and 6.5” long made with CF. The endcaps are made of plastic and glued so they are not removable, unlike his newer versions. I believe the internal of the Oldboy has some hair-roller segments wrapped with felts. The OldBoy has several vent holes across the length of the LDC. The SUMO is made of aluminum and is anodized and bead blasted, very good looking with “professional” feeling. It has 1.5” ID and 6.5” in length with ½”x20 thread, similar to the OldBoy. The SUMO is not completely round (polygon) so it will not roll around on a flat surface. The internal baffle is mono-core (see pictures). Unlike the OldBoy, SUMO does not have any moving parts inside, and both ends are sealed with o-rings on the endcaps. Donny recognized those o-rings are deformed and he is looking for more durable ones for replacement. Just unscrewing the rear endcap and you can easily push out the internal core for maintenance or doing some mods (like wrapping different materials). Well, how effective is the new SUMO vs. the OldBoy?

SUMO

SUMO and OldBoy

SUMO Mono-core baffle

I tested the loudness of my Mutant standard (.22) using VisualAudio app in my iPhone, sampling rate was set at 44.1KHz. The Mutant was shooting JSB 18.1, 899±2 fps (893-903 fps), and the phone was supported by 2 stacked JSB tins and placed on the right side of my shooting table (in my garage) ~6” away from the trigger. The microphone was facing toward me. Three shots for each LDC. Five sets of tests were done with different shooting sequence combinations.

Without LDC (stock), the Mutant made ~90-91 dB sound pressure level. The SUMO reduced the sound to 87-88 dB and the OldBoy reduced it further to 84-85 dB. They have different sound signatures, SUMO has more cracking sound (higher pitch). So, the Oldboy is the winner. It was getting dark…couldn’t see the target, so I stopped and enjoyed the dinner with the lovely wife.

Sound Data for SUMO and OldBoy

Next day, based on Donny’s suggestion, I wrapped the mono-core with a felt and tested it again. Now, the sound levels were comparable between the SUMO and the OldBoy. After moving the mono-core in and out several times, the o-rings were completely dead. Donny will send some good o-rings and the felt he used for SUMO for further testing. Interestingly, different wrapping materials produce different sound signatures. I like the low-drum pooh-sound than the high pitch cracking sound. I think a tight felt-wrap may help. Comparing with the OldBoy, SUMO is a good looking and well-build guy – should last long. It is an excellent LDC and fun to mod. I do enjoy shooting with the SUMO. Mouse fart?…not quite…but close. Great job Donny!

Sound Data for the Wrapped SUMO and the OldBoy

Sounds terrible, hope they are worth it

The scopes have been returned to Bushnell for repair. I checked the repair status almost every day and it says “Replacement Item on Order” for more a month. I contacted the Repair Service Department to see what is going on, and they said the item is on backorder until April 20. What a joke… Firstly, they have the “defect” scopes, and secondly they did not fixed the scopes first time returning, and now the parts are backordered. They should replace the defect scopes instead of letting me waiting for the parts – taking more than 4 months to fix the scopes (if they indeed will fix it) ….. I am not impressed by their Customer Service – even the scopes have the so-called “life time warranty”.

Endo, thanks for the explanation. Makes perfect sense to me. Happy shooting! More to come? :biggrinn:
Darryl

Darryl, that tin is sitting on my shooting table for the shorty. I just grabbed it over to let the wheel lean against it, showing the yardage marks. So, there is no special purpose on it. LOL.

I usually measure the head size (about 50 pellets) in all new tins received and mark the percentage of the head size on the tin. So, I could have a record on the accuracy-related pellet issues. My Mutants (shorty and standard) are not that picky, but like 5.50-head the most. Matador’s LW barrel is very picky and likes 5.50 only. JSB’s tin is very inconsistent, most of the tins I got in the past 3 years were smaller head (5.46-5.49 mm), and occasionally, in a lucky order, I could receive 3-4 tins out of 12 tins, with 5.48-5.50 mm head. I haven’t received anything > 5.50 JSB for a long long time, so I don’t know if >5.50 head could be more accurate at downrange for the Mutant. Making it more complicated, JSB makes two types of skirts, thin vs. thick, and the size of the head base also varies. In my experience with the Matador and Mutant, they seem to perform better (consistence and accuracy) with thin-skirt + larger head base + 5.50 head. So, I spend most of my shooting time, >90%, “plinking” around the yard with the “inferior” pellets — this qualifies me as a plinker….LOL.

That tin is one of the good tins, high percentage of 5.49-5.50. I have it ready on the shooting table for something that is worth of using it. :winkn:

Endo

Hi Endo,
Plinker? You? (yeah, right! :biggrinn: ) Now I can hardly wait for you to get your scope back! :winkn: As for the tin of pellets, is that the food the barrel likes? I’ll assume so, or you would not have posted the picture. I find the head diameter mix interesting in that the spread seems pretty tight, and below the 5.52 size I’d assumed. A bit of sorting, and finding the head sizes on the tin translated equally downrange? All I can say is you’re a higher class plinker than I am! Please keep up the good work. I enjoy your informative posts.
Darryl

Thanks Darryl. I consider myself as a plinker not a serious shooter.
I just like to play with accurate guns…LOL.

I marked the yardage on the wheel while testing the scope and now just printed the label out and temporary taped it to the wheel. I am ready for the action….just needing my scope back. Will keep you posted.

Regards,
Endo

Endo, you are a serious shooter indeed. I’ve known other such people. Their discussions of the pursuit of accuracy reflect a deep sense of dedication to the art. I think you are among those people. I’d like to count myself among them, but in reality, I’m just a plinker.
I hope the scope returns in good order and proves to be a good tool for you.

Darryl

Thanks Darryl and Cricket.

I am spoiled by the FFP scope, and I like Bushnell G2 reticle. I sent the scope back to them for adjustment and hope to get it back soon.

The UTG big wheel, especially the old version, is right size for the Bushnell Tactical Elite – a snug fit. The newer version (lighter weight) is slightly loose, it only has two small screws to fix the wheel. The parallel knob of the scope is not protruding out enough so the wheel will touch the elevation turret. I put an O-ring shim to solve the issue. I also have re-labelled the yardage on the wheel. Now I just need the scope back……hurry up Bushnell.

Regards,
Endo

I like how the reticle gets thinner in the very middle, that’s genius

Endo, you’re definitely on it. I look forward to your coming groups and what you think of your new scope tests.
Darryl

It’s been a while since my last post. I finally got the scopes back, but Bushnell didn’t repair the range of turret adjustment. I called their Repair Department and they ask me to send them back again. This is very odd. Anyway, hopefully, they will fix the issue this time.

Here are pictures on the crosshair for the highest (24X) and the lowest (6X) power. The size of Bushnell’s eyepiece is much smaller than that of the Howke’s, and I don’t have the smaller size of eyepiece collar insert for the scope. So, I held the phone for picture taking. The camera quality of my phone is lousy. Just for the reference, the target was set at 31 yards and the dots are .25” in diameter. In order to use phone adapter, I will need to make a shim to fit to the Bushnell eyepiece. Another project to do…

Regards,
Endo


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