.25 Rifle build
I’ve decided to build a .25 rifle based around the Buckley bottle gun, mainly since I had a bottle left over from my talon days.
This is going to be my rock chuck gun, so power and accuracy are primary goals, hoping to push some of the mr hollowpoint pills to good velocity.
shooting will be done from rock jacks at ranges from 40 to 75+ yards.
I ordered a .25 LW barrel from tim1 and some alum. from online metals
I intend to shroud it ala marauder and hope to keep the noise down to a reasonable level
got a start on the receiver today, this will probably take way to long to complete (20 month old daughter, work, wife, starting school again, blah blah) but I will document it here as I make progress.
New Shop! oops forgot to secure the mill be fore using it, boy do they get moving 🙂
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The machine was out of order, dit fix it a bit.
but it was a nice deal, with a lot of tooling, I pay around $200 for the DECKEL FP1 😀
lots of good things to say ’bout Old Iron 🙂
I’d love a larger/heavier mill – wallet says otherwise 🙄
Don’t look good, build in 1952, CHUNKY 😕 but do the job.
Edit, what’s there on the background 😀
Thanks Walt,
Yep just using the R8 collets.
Every once in awhile I’ll get the urge to get a tormach setup so I can set the tool length and not have to reset the Z after every tool change, but then I look at how much it cost and think I can live without it 🙂
Hahahaha, Mike, I’ve often wondered the same thing about the 4″ Kurt. My 6″ Kurt is now wrapped up in storage. I’m thinking of trading someone for his 4″ Kurt, but sometimes the 6″ is nice to have for longer grabs, but yeah, it uses up all the vertical space under the spindle. I’ve been using the little chinese vice lately, it’s a knockoff of the Kurt and quality is very poor, but it gets by… just barely.
Dogwood, nice mill. I can’t see the spindle; you using collet tooling? Sometimes if I don’t want to crank the thing up or down I just pull out the mill holders instead of using the collet directly, it extends down another 4″… although generally I prefer the collets since the bit is held much closer to the head (although on these chinese machines I constantly worry about flex).
Keep us posted on the progress
aloha,
walt
hi here a pic. of the raw rifle.
Looking good, I’ve got something pretty much exactly like that planned for when I get my mill.
Not sure about calibre though, I already have a .25 😀
Dave
got a new vice, should free up some much needed y axis movement for this project
thanks ewoodie,
yep always trying to think ahead and how to hold for each step 😀
that was a interesting looking action you created there
Hi keep going.
Try to think in front, get all your stuff, like tools and other stuff.
Make good drawings, and think on it, and take a good look, how you must make it, that are things you can do in your lunchtime.
here my first one, sorry for the strange takling, but it’s dutch.
Power 30 ft/lbs, never build it ready 😳 to many other things to do, and new projects.
Had a friend offer me a free 6″ Kurt, had to pass as the 4″ kurt-style barely fits as it is 😯
I wondered the same thing Knifemaker. I can only assume that the 4 is more popular. That 6 inch is a beast ), drop that think and your going to lose a foot.
I never have figured out why, when buying a real Kurt brand vise they want 200.00 more for a 4″ than they do a 6″. 😕
my thoughts exactly, been hunting with a .22 MROD, spitting kodiaks out at right around 900 fps, but they still get back up and scurry down a hole more often than I like.
Ordered a new 3″ screwless vice, that 4″ Kurt style is just to big for some operations, I like the heft and solidness, just need more movement on the y axis.
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nice score 😎