Q:

Altaros Compressor

Hello,
we would like to take this opportunity to introduce our Altaros compressor for the home bottle filling on high air pressure up to 300bar/4500 psi .
At the same time, we want to answer your questions and ask your opinion on our compressor. We welcome all comments and type of information that would interest you and should be on our web.
Or some technical improvements that you would like on compressor in the future.
Here is few photos:







Compressor video test with temperature meassurements

Parameters.
Output pressure Max 300bar, 30MPa, 4500 PSI
Input pressure Min 5bar, 70 PSI
Max 10bar, 145PSI

Size (Height x width x depth) 30x30x60 cm 11.7 x 11.7 x 23.6 inch
Weight 5 kg 11 lb

More detailed information can be found on our website:

Basic Info


Or in our manual:

Instruction


Thank you for your comments, which will surely help make the compressor even better than it is now.

Compressors, tanks and pumps

All Replies

Viewing 15 replies - 46 through 60 (of 167 total)

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You’re welcome Rami,

Sorry Uncle, happened to be online…

5 gallons, this explains the quick cycle, everything seems fine, so far.
Have fun with your booster

Thanks Papa,
the compressor is 5 gallons ,3 HP ,Alltrade Trades Pro compressor(oil)
I have pictures,but ,need to research how to post them.

quote rami939:

Hi Guys,

my home compressor run for 40 seconds,then stop for 40 seconds ,then repeat until the filling was done .
I obtained that by adjusting the air intake (#13) screw in the unit .
Does this sound like the 60/40 cycle should be ?
The altaros strokes were kind of slow though .

:hoot:

Dear Ram…

Papa beat me to the response…but we both are in agreement, take a look….

Remember this Altaros unit is a “booster”, not a “compressor”. It’s going to function slowly because it’s air driven piston is re-compressing air in the high pressure chamber. Slow cycling is one reason why it runs cool, and another reason that it should last a very long time. Sounds like you almost got it down to factory specs…just a bit more adjustment on intake air, and on your expectations from its performance.

Sounds like your compressor is running on a 50/50 cycle. That may be fine, but Altaros recommends a little different cycle. Compressor runs 40 seconds, then off for 25/30 seconds, might be a bit closer to the recommended ratio. A bit of adjustment out on the intake air screw should do the deed. You don’t want to burn up your shop compressor…it needs a bit of time to cool down.

Patience is required, give the unit the time it’s designed to do it’s job, and remember to refill often…perhaps after your top-off pressure is down around 500 psi, that way your refill time stays reasonably short. Just keep reminding yourself…”This is a booster, it works at it’s own pace, not mine!

Hoot:

Hi Rami,

You’re close, according to your description, you have a 50/50 cycle.
Calculation is Run time ratio = Run time / Total time for 1 cycle * 100
In your case
Run time = 40 seconds
Total cycle time = 80 seconds (40 seconds running + 40 seconds standstill)

Run time ratio = 40 seconds / 80 seconds * 100 = 0.5 * 100 = 50

You could screw out the air flow screw a tad to get to 60/40 (in your case 48 seconds run time/32 seconds stand still).
Run time = Run time ratio * Total cycle time / 100
Run time = 60 * 80 seconds / 100 = 48 seconds

I’d recommend though to keep it at 50/50 as it is currently, this gives your workshop compressor more time to cool down, which helps it living longer in turn.
The cycle seems relatively quick, what workshop compressor do you use?

Cheers

Hi Guys,
I’ve ordered an Altaros unit,and last night run the unit for the first time .
I’ve got the filters in front of the altaros ,and ,filled my small carbon fiber tank (Joe B. 118 ci) from 3000 to 4200 in about 1 hour .
My question is this ,
my home compressor run for 40 seconds,then stop for 40 seconds ,then repeat until the filling was done .
I obtained that by adjusting the air intake (#13) screw in the unit .
Does this sound like the 60/40 cycle should be ?
The altaros strokes were kind of slow though .
I’m trying to learn the ropes on this thing .
Thanks.

I second that, the more air it can get the better. I’think you won’t be disappointed with the Altaros unit.
Let us know about your experience once it arrived.
Cheers

Just be sure to feed it with enough air, and I think you will be very-very happy!

Knife

Thank you all for the extensive testing and reporting of findings on these compressors. They seem to be a decent buy and putting out good results. Thats’ not always the case with new companies/products and it’s good the read the positive results you guys are seeing.
You’ve all given me enough information to have the confidence in the product to go ahead with a purchase of one.
Altaros – You have these guys to thank for another sale.

I don’t see why not Unk. Would need a bottoming tap, and the proper drill bit.

Ordered the Dman Filter as well. Looking forward to receiving it and letting you all know how it goes.

I have learned with past experience that Dman deals only with quality. So very anxious to try it out!

Knife

:hoot:

I considered that as well…a gauge on the fill whip but it seemed the diameter was too thin to take the gauge threads.

I wonder if it could be drilled and threaded easily??? It seems big enough.

It would be great to monitor the pressure coming out of the Altaros unit.

Hoot:

Papa,
I wrote him last night. Awaiting his response. 😉

Knife/Mike

Just re-read one of your post. I wonder if an easily available air guage could be screwed into the pluged threaded section on the Altaros fill stinger (Whip). My SCBA bottle already has a gauge built in, and I attach the Altaros fill whip to the Joe B. fill hose and fitting which has it’s own gauge. A rather large, liquid filled gauge.

Knife/Mike

Just ordered one from him.
Don’t think it’ll really be necessary for air gun top up, especially from what I saw during my recent air tube inspection, but when filling cylinders (once I got one) it’ll for sure be better, way more air and more risk of condensate.
Let’s keep exchanging on our impressions.
Cheers

Sound like a well thought out plan. How odd that now one has ever posted, (That I have ever seen) this on here or other boards. Seems like total common Sense to me!
Well Done Sir!

I am thinking about picking up one of the DMan High Pressure filters. Seems a good choice and far lower price than the Joe B. unit. Totally depends on finances in Dec. 😉

Will Let you all know how it goes if I do pick one up.

Glad the Hospital experience was not so bad! 😉

Mike/Knife

Ok, back from hospital, surgery went well. What a day…
Funny thing Knife, you mention this technique, I’m doing something similar with my rifles when going outdoors in cold weather.
Letting them cool down to ambient (outside) temperature standing in a way that the valve is pointing downwards (on the buttstock for most rifles where the valve points towards the breech and on the muzzle for the Talon where the valve points towards the muzzle – and on some protective leather or cloth, of course).
When they’re at temperature (10 to 15 minutes, the time to get everything set up), I just pick them up, maintaining the valve-down position and firing 2 to 3 shots without pellet to chase potentially cumulated/condensated moisture during the cool-down.
Valve-downwards in order to have condensate cumulate close to the valve.

Thanks so much guys! Felling a little better tonight. Posted this over on the GTA, and thought it might be of use to someone here. 😉

Now, a little tidbit of info. The SCBA tank valve has a (APX.), 2″ tall stem protruding vertically from the valve unit when viewed in the way an SCBA Bottle is worn. All that is necessary to purge any water upon demand, is simply modify this tube.

If you cut if off even with the base of the valve and counter it lightly, you can purge your cylinder any time. It only takes a few minutes to perform the modification, and after, only a simple puf from the valve, and water is gone!,

Simply hold the SCBA bottle in the proper position for wearing in a Fireman’s Pack and quickly open and shut the valve. (While the hose is well secured).

In other words, the bottle has to be positioned “Valve Down” for a few minutes for all moisture to collect in the valve region. Now crack the valve open, while holding the end of the fill whip securely. Half a second seems about right. Repeat until you see no cloud of mist. With this one quick step, you’re golden!

Works best after a good cool down period to allow all the condensation to give optimal results.

Sure cheaper than a High side Filter. No?

That tube is there to prevent any water entering while providing air to the wearer of a fireman’s pack. (Apparently, even industrial compressors can give some moisture, With their very expensive setups).

Since we will not be using the SCBA for actual Breathing Air, the precaution of a snorkel in the valve is null and void. But NEVER-EVER use said Tank for breathing air once modified!!!

Knife

Viewing 15 replies - 46 through 60 (of 167 total)

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