ATN COCKING LEVER, INSTALLATION, AND ADJUSTMENTS NEEDED!
:hoot:
YES! It’s all metal. It’s quality construction!
The kit contains loose parts that YOU will need to install. Most of the kit is pre-assembled, so don’t panic when you look at the picture and don’t see corresponding parts in the bags.
First….the parts list… but some are already assembled in the kit, note my arrows as I tried to determine if everything arrived:
Now, this is how all the parts ended up as “assembled” or “loose”….note there are only six parts you actually need to ‘install’.
Here are the parts you need to attach…two short screws in the front, two long screws in the rear that attach the cocking block to the side of the gun, and finally one screw to attach to the gun’s internal cocking bolt. That’s five (5) moving parts to attach…the cover plate does have a right and wrong side! Look for the side with the angled hole entries, that side faces out.
Now…a word of warning, take note, at the far right of the below image, the block the lever is hinged to (201) and it’s two screws (210)…are ADJUSTABLE parts, and must be leveled before tightened in place. Fail to do this correctly and the gun won’t cock smoothly, if at all. Bold print at bottom of post explains all….
I’m going with a left handed installation.
CRITICAL INSTALLATION CORRECTION…MUST READ!!!
THE LEVER (PART 204) ATTACHED TO PART 205 MUST BE LINED UP CORRECTLY BEFORE TIGHTENING THE TWO LONG SCREWS THAT HOLD PART 201 IN PLACE AGAINST THE SIDE PLATE! PART 201 IS ADJUSTABLE IN POSITION TO PERMIT THE COCKING LEVER TO OPERATE SMOOTHLY, IT IS THEN LOCKED IN PLACE BY THE TWO LONG SCREWS (PARTS 210).
I suggest the following sequence…
1) SNUG-TIGHTEN THE FRONT TWO SCREWS, THEN START THE TWO LONG SCREWS THAT HOLD PART 201 TO THE SIDE PLATE, LEAVE THEM LOOSE.
2) NOW ATTACH PART 205 WITH THE THICK SCREW 208 TO THE SLIDING CYLINDER INSIDE THE GUN…YOU MAY TIGHTEN IT FIRMLY AT THIS TIME.
3) THIS IS IMPORTANT…YOU MUST “ADJUST” THE ANGLE OF PART 201, THE HINGE BLOCK, SO THE COCKING LEVER IS LEVEL AND SLIDES BACK AND FORTH SMOOTHLY! PART 201 DOES NOT SCREW AUTOMATICALLY INTO IT’S CORRECT POSITION.
4) YOU MUST GENTLY ADJUST PART 201 UP/DOWN UNTIL THE ATTACHED COCKING LEVER TRAVELS LEVEL AND EVEN INSIDE THE SIDE PLATE. FAILURE TO DO THIS CAUSES PART 205 TO “GRIND” AGAINST THE COVER PLATE, AND THE COCKING LEVER BECOMES EXTREMELY DIFFICULT OR IMPOSSIBLE TO MOVE.
5) ONCE THE COCKING LEVER MOVES BACK AND FORTH, BUTTERY SMOOTH, AND HOLDING PART 201 IN PLACE, CAREFULLY FINAL TIGHTEN THE TWO LONG SCREWS (PARTS 210) THAT HOLD PART 201, TO THE SIDE PLATE. WHILE TIGHTENING THESE TWO LONG SCREWS, MOVE THE COCKING LEVER BACK AND FORTH A FEW TIMES TO ENSURE THE COCKING LEVER IS STILL LINED UP STRAIGHT, BEFORE FINAL SNUGGING THE TWO SCREWS DOWN.
CAREFUL INSTALLATION OF PARTS 201 AND 210 ARE THE KEY TO PROPER ALIGNMENT OF THE COCKING LEVER, AND IT’S SMOOTH OPERATION.
(Phew!!! I’m tired. It took three hours to pinpoint the real cause of the problem.)
kind regards,
Exhausted Uncle Hoot:
UPDATED INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 1/7/2017
Photobucket sucks!!!![/b]
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Good for you Zonk!! You’ll will be a happy camper!! I’ve taken out a few sparrows with mine since I got it back from Earnest… Only thing is he sets the dang trigger so light in one of his tune ups, that I have to be very careful or I shoot the sucker before I’m ready… I’ll probably set it up a little tighter… His tune sheet says 6 ounces!!! :suprisedn: :suprisedn:
I sure like the black stock with that adjustable butt pad too!
Attachments:
I got just enough for my cans to buy my sidelever. Now the wait begins……………… :whistle:
eelect , that is fine , I really like my handle in the upward position even if I’m not the only one to have it this way . I really like
how much smoother and easier it is to cock and shoot this gun . Evgeny should make this mod as a standard feature on all of his
new Gen. Vulcans from now on . I believe that other PCP guns that are cocked by a bolt action system could also benefit from
having this Biathlon Lever System . :8: :8: :8:
FROM : THE BIRDMAN
P.S. You will need a Torx T 15 wrench/driver to tighten Part # 208 to the bolt assembly .
Birdman my handle was pointing up too. I reversed it to point down. It can be easily done.
Installed my new side lever today on my .25 Vulcan . It only took about 5 minutes to change the bolt out . The only difference
on my set-up is that Evgeny has my handle part #203 going upward instead of downward like shown on elects’ set-up , for me
it doesn’t matter , as a matter of fact I like it in the upward position nice to have the new mod and still have a different look
from everyone else , still looks cool and I maybe the only one with this mod that has the lever handle upward . :biggrinn:
My gun now cocks faster and a hell of a lot smoother , and I was able to shoot a full magazine way much faster , smoother , an
a lot easier than before . I really like this new mod it makes shooting my Vulcan so much more fun to shoot . I’m glad that no
one wanted to buy my Vulcan when I posted it for sale and I decided to pass up the .25 Mutant Shorty and keep it . I got a
brand new CZ barrel , a brand new Gen 4 Threaded Shroud , and I have a brand new 1.5″ x 7 5/8″ LDC from donnfl that screws
on perfectly and my wife says my gun is nice and quiet now . Have to love the little women , she told me if they come out with a
semi-auto PCP that I would like to have go ahead and buy it . :5: :8:
FROM : THE BIRDMAN
Thanks Zonk. Not enough birds that I can shoot. I have to keep on chasing them form one spot to the next. Making it very difficult. The wind is always coming form different angles and you only get one shot at 70 plus yards. They farmer put netting up to keep them out in the older barn but you have to go into the barn to get them if they get stuck in there when they open the doors to let Equipment in. It’s too cold now so that’s another tough thing to endure. The smell is not something I want either in my new truck.
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viewtopic.php?f=54&t=36141&start=20#p374107
Awe man! I completely missed that entire page of this thread, and I just realized why. I was perusing the proceeding page and became fixated on Zonk’s avatar. That was the last thing I remember.
Is that a post from Zonk right above this post? Don’t look! Don’t look! Don’t look!………crap………
Sounds good Hoot. waiting to hear from Evgeny anyways.
:hoot:
Zonk….
There is no hurry. China mail is rowing as fast as they can, plus the mules in Arkansas can only make it to the end of the hard road at the base of the Quichita Mountains, then mail has to be back-packed up to Toad Suck. If no one is killed on the way, this can take two to four weeks, depending on the snow pack!
I’ll let everyone know when they arrive.
Sincerely…
Kindly ‘Ol Uncle Hoot:
Airgun Technologies needs to take note. Their research and development program is being done for free on this forum. These mods are cost effective, and enhance the gun’s performance…why not incorporate these features into the next production run? The cost would be pennies to produce…
When my flat 10mmX5mmX3mm magnets arrive, I will experiment on different locations. There are at least three places where the magnet would work. I’ll get a package of 50, and would be willing to share them, for a small donation for mailing and handling.
Those tiny rubber adhesive pads are available at Wallyworld, and just about any hardware, drug, dollar, or auto supply store.
Hoot:
Hoot PM me with donation fee and address, I’m taking aluminum cans in tomorrow.
I already have that in the image of my actual magnet mod.
http://www.talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=36141&start=20#p374107
I suspect it will be easier for most to put it at a similar position on the inside of the slotted plate. Hoot will have to experiment and see if mounting on the hinge block vs the side plate will work.
Where I put it under the Picatinny rail DOES work. It’s just a pain to position it for epoxying. There are lots of ferrous parts in the vicinity that the magnet will want to stick to instead. It was easy on my particular Vulcan because I added a steel plate under my rail to take care of centering my Hawke’s elevation control. IIRC I tilted the scope front downward about 10 MOA. Anyways, that steel plate gave the magnet a natural place to glom onto during experimentation and the epoxy set.
Eelect, that black stock looks real nice. Any birds at the cattle barn?
zoe , maybe the spring is exposed in order to lube it when needed , when closed you may not know when and if it needs
to be lubricated . :2cents:
FROM : THE BIRDMAN
This part needs to be flipped when installing it on other side so I believe it needs to be cut out till the front.
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Does look real nice Salt that’s for sure. My Vulcan and Cricket both have 4oz triggers. That’s what I’m used to being a Varmint shooter. Wasn’t going to get the side lever but too many of you guys like it so much it rubbed off on me.