ATN COCKING LEVER, INSTALLATION, AND ADJUSTMENTS NEEDED!
:hoot:
YES! It’s all metal. It’s quality construction!
The kit contains loose parts that YOU will need to install. Most of the kit is pre-assembled, so don’t panic when you look at the picture and don’t see corresponding parts in the bags.
First….the parts list… but some are already assembled in the kit, note my arrows as I tried to determine if everything arrived:
Now, this is how all the parts ended up as “assembled” or “loose”….note there are only six parts you actually need to ‘install’.
Here are the parts you need to attach…two short screws in the front, two long screws in the rear that attach the cocking block to the side of the gun, and finally one screw to attach to the gun’s internal cocking bolt. That’s five (5) moving parts to attach…the cover plate does have a right and wrong side! Look for the side with the angled hole entries, that side faces out.
Now…a word of warning, take note, at the far right of the below image, the block the lever is hinged to (201) and it’s two screws (210)…are ADJUSTABLE parts, and must be leveled before tightened in place. Fail to do this correctly and the gun won’t cock smoothly, if at all. Bold print at bottom of post explains all….
I’m going with a left handed installation.
CRITICAL INSTALLATION CORRECTION…MUST READ!!!
THE LEVER (PART 204) ATTACHED TO PART 205 MUST BE LINED UP CORRECTLY BEFORE TIGHTENING THE TWO LONG SCREWS THAT HOLD PART 201 IN PLACE AGAINST THE SIDE PLATE! PART 201 IS ADJUSTABLE IN POSITION TO PERMIT THE COCKING LEVER TO OPERATE SMOOTHLY, IT IS THEN LOCKED IN PLACE BY THE TWO LONG SCREWS (PARTS 210).
I suggest the following sequence…
1) SNUG-TIGHTEN THE FRONT TWO SCREWS, THEN START THE TWO LONG SCREWS THAT HOLD PART 201 TO THE SIDE PLATE, LEAVE THEM LOOSE.
2) NOW ATTACH PART 205 WITH THE THICK SCREW 208 TO THE SLIDING CYLINDER INSIDE THE GUN…YOU MAY TIGHTEN IT FIRMLY AT THIS TIME.
3) THIS IS IMPORTANT…YOU MUST “ADJUST” THE ANGLE OF PART 201, THE HINGE BLOCK, SO THE COCKING LEVER IS LEVEL AND SLIDES BACK AND FORTH SMOOTHLY! PART 201 DOES NOT SCREW AUTOMATICALLY INTO IT’S CORRECT POSITION.
4) YOU MUST GENTLY ADJUST PART 201 UP/DOWN UNTIL THE ATTACHED COCKING LEVER TRAVELS LEVEL AND EVEN INSIDE THE SIDE PLATE. FAILURE TO DO THIS CAUSES PART 205 TO “GRIND” AGAINST THE COVER PLATE, AND THE COCKING LEVER BECOMES EXTREMELY DIFFICULT OR IMPOSSIBLE TO MOVE.
5) ONCE THE COCKING LEVER MOVES BACK AND FORTH, BUTTERY SMOOTH, AND HOLDING PART 201 IN PLACE, CAREFULLY FINAL TIGHTEN THE TWO LONG SCREWS (PARTS 210) THAT HOLD PART 201, TO THE SIDE PLATE. WHILE TIGHTENING THESE TWO LONG SCREWS, MOVE THE COCKING LEVER BACK AND FORTH A FEW TIMES TO ENSURE THE COCKING LEVER IS STILL LINED UP STRAIGHT, BEFORE FINAL SNUGGING THE TWO SCREWS DOWN.
CAREFUL INSTALLATION OF PARTS 201 AND 210 ARE THE KEY TO PROPER ALIGNMENT OF THE COCKING LEVER, AND IT’S SMOOTH OPERATION.
(Phew!!! I’m tired. It took three hours to pinpoint the real cause of the problem.)
kind regards,
Exhausted Uncle Hoot:
UPDATED INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 1/7/2017
Photobucket sucks!!!![/b]
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Nice explanation Hoot! It will come in handy when my gun arrives. Thanks for doing the leg work, sir!
:hoot:
Sorry guys…wrong solution! The screw wasn’t too long. It was an alignment problem with parts 201 and it’s two mounting/adjusting screws. (parts 210)
What I thought was “grinding” was not the screw, but part 205 that screws into the gun’s cocking rod, which was “grinding” against the top and bottom of the kit’s side plate.
Part 201 MUST be adjusted up/down to get the cocking lever level and lined up. Otherwise part 205 grinds against upper or lower parts of the side plate.
So damn simple…yet so hard to see!
Hoot:
Hoot, if you can’t get anywhere with a grinder, you might consider using wet 800 grit silicon carbide “wet or dry” sandpaper atop a flat glass plate. That will grind down almost anything. But it will take some elbow grease.
Could alternatively consider making up some flexible, small washers from some aluminum sheet metal. The stuff that soda cans are made of is thin enough to deform to shape. Might take a few layers to get the thickness right.
Finally, M6 bolts from Lowes are pretty easy to cut and grind. I used one of those to create a new cocking handle during my ambidextrous cocking mod. Head of the bolt might be an issue if the lever needs to fold down tight to part 205
:hoot:
Corrected post above with solution…
Hoot:
UPDATE INSTALL HINTS 1/7/2017:
If you have a nut of the same size and thread pitch as part 208, might I suggest that you thread it on before starting to grind. Once you cut or grind the screw to the proper length, you can use the nut to “clean up” the start threads by repeatedly loosening/tightening the nut. Hope that made sense.
Ideally, you would cut or grind the screw to length and then run a dye down down it.
Just another thought: Could you shim part #205 on the concave side?
:hoot:
ZAP!!! Read the above. This was not the problem. Parts 201 and 210 are the critical elements to a successful installation.
Hoot:
Thanks Unc. for the post. Can’t wait until I get mine!
Ernest just emailed me that he’s all finished with my Vulcan tune up. Will be sending it back to me first of next week… Late Christmas for me this year! I’m Pumped!! :8: :8:
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right. next time you put on your ashtray reading glasses.
:rofl: