drop in insert for TSS….DONE
Im planning on making a few drop in style inserts for the TSS that will work with the 12″ barrel and .177-.25 cal… it would be made of black delrin and run about $125 shipped…. so my quwstion is this… is any one really interested in having one of these???
this isn’t mine but an example of what im leaning twords…
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Hoot, I’m not sure what Tony did, but my safety is very easy.
Greg
I hate that little red safety knob. It hurts the back of my trigger finger to push it off. If you can make a blade type that fits over that rod, I’ll bet it would easier to push to the “off” position, and feel a lot better on the finger in the process, as it would be wider. It would have to look better than that red plastic knob.
I like the safety being “on”. I don’t like to use two hands to push the damn thing off.
Regards,
Kindly ‘Ol Uncle Hoot 😯
PS: I have always believed you to be a genius, and a man of your word. Hopefully you can come up with a safety that looks and feels good.
The only improvment that I see is that the first defractor also needs to have the reflex curve, else there is air collison rather than air flow. The air needs to continue to flow, else noise is transferred, especially any time direction change is non-uniform or abrupt. Imagine a water hose shooting at the difractor. Without the relfex curve, there is a lot of splatter which will instantly crash into the incoming flow and NOISE. If the flow hits the difractor and then is reflexed back past itself it will continue all the way back to the bushing before its first major impact transferring NOISE. This way you create volume through distance.
Noise, like radiation follows the inverse square law.
Radiation (noise) reduction = 1 / distance squared. A small distance increase is a big gain.
keep watching for the next gen of drop in inserts…….but first I’m gonna tackle that damn little red safty knob and see if i can do one better….
Greg
Look’n good Greg!
I’ll bet you could make one for $50, to be competitive.
I could turn one of these down to fit the .900 I.D. of your extender but as for the standoffs i’d need to see a pic to get a better idea….
It really boils down to one question and one question only……..
Any fool knows Black absorbs light and sound.
There is antidotal evidence that once an individual has gone Black, they never go back.
While 7.5 inches doesn’t sound like much, especially for a Black shroud, it has proven to be a nominal length increase for a modifier to be effective, and does beg evidence to show that any Talon SS can be quieted with a baffle design only, and no increase in length.
Kindest regards,
Hoot 😯
PS: Any video, in Black and white of course, to show sound difference?
Hoot- I have plans on making some vids tomorrow of a TSS w/ and W/O the insert for a side by side comparison…. Cause like i ssaid its not as good as a full on shroud but its better than the o-rings and lighter..
Greg
What would it cost to make a mini version that slip inside a Frame Extender Shroud which has an ID of .900 inches for a 25 caliber Condor. Now the Frame Extender has a Reflex milled into the end cap, so would probably want some stand offs built into the end, maybe like 4 prongs.
I’ll bet you could make one for $50, to be competitive.
well guys i finally got these damn things done… I went through 4 different designs (1 of which collapsed on itself) and more O.T. at work than i can count… I have one “setup” part that will still function but just dosn’t look as good as the rest.. More info will be in the forsale section….
Greg
I don’t have anything to compare it to but the white prototype works great in my Condor 12″ .177.
I had my Condor tuned down and quiet for 26 yard accuracy but range rules forced me to set up at 50 yards so for accuracy I had to tune up to where the blast now covers up the hammer slap-ping. I now need to test fire in my home so I was glad to buy the white proto that nobody seemed to want. Silly people, black permanent marker worked wonders on it.
Anyway, I shot 2 rounds so far and my Condor was quieter than ever. Quieter than with my lowest tune with only hammer slap-ping, but now the velocity is in the mid to low 900s. I swapped it back out and squeezed off one more round into the ground with previous setup and bang!!! What a difference!!!…..Got back in the house before the neighbors figured it out and complained. I would say the design is great as is!
Tomorrow I’ll be shopping for supplies to build a silent indoor trap so I can do my pre-range testing in my home.
well my material has finally arrived and i will begin making chips in the next day or so…..I am gonna thin the ribs between the chambers to provide more space for the air to expand in the insert to hopefully make it a little more effective,,,,
Greg
I would argue against that statement ) Although they arent easy/cheap to make.
http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=83&highlight=baffles
There’s always room in the world for a better mouse trap!
Hoot 😯
Sub you do great work nice looking shrouderator!! 😯
well hoot i have to agree with you in that to be really effective length and their-for volume must be increased to absorbe all that air form the shot but in compairison to the “washer / o-ring trick” this is more effective and dosn’t inclrease the length like a normal shroud does… my proto type is on its way to a new home already for their input and enjoyment… I have been considering putting this baffel design into a shorud so that you can have both worlds, more volume of a shorud and shaped baffles… Only time will tell
Greg
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I have made many many safety knobs for safety and it really makes using it much easier.
That being said….The safety on an Airforce rifle is the most “UnSafe” thing on the gun. The way the have it articulated with the sear is is dumb and ill thought out.
It is a common problem to release the sear and have the gun fire! Screw that. I just take it out and uncock and cock as needed. I do not even make the safety knobs any longer because I rather just have them take the safety out and just “Be Safe”