Q:

Hammer fix

Lately I’ve noticed with 25 Vulcan the 40-50 and beyond yard shots where not slam dunk anymore. Well this morning after a horrendous outing I figured I’d better look into it.
I whipped out chronograph and viola the answer was clear. First it was shooting 880-990 to start off with. Last time I checked it was 930 or so. So I took your the hammer screw and was able to move velocity around but not consistent at all. Extreme spread was 25 and then some. My 80 yard groups showed it too. So I took it apart but had to reverse drill out two of the screws holding the side plate. (thanks Zonk for the 2 spares you sent me) I took hammer out and wiped it clean. Then I noticed the one end where trigger catches hammer was sharp. So I smoothed out the edges using a drill to spin hammer and taking some cloth to the edge.

While I had it apart I figured I might try to do something with hammer spring too

I put it to the test through chrony and settled for 920 with es of 2 with 20 shots tethered to my tank. Major improvement to say the least.
I went and did a accuracy test and it puts 3 pellets through a hole not much bigger than the pellet at 50 yards.
I’m so happy to have my Vulcan back to its usual self.
The piece on the spring is a rubber grommet that you use to insulate a hole to pull wires through. I can’t hear the spring at all. Problem is my gun got louder. Lol

Sent from my Z30 using Tapatalk

Airgun Technology

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Viewing 15 replies - 31 through 45 (of 114 total)

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I still have a few left……………….

quote Sir Ville:

quote Hoot:

quote kris:

OK thanks. Clear.

:hoot:

Dude….

I don’t want to be invasive…but, what is that bright light behind your head in your forum photo???

From your beard and long hair…I figured you were from Europe somewhere, but that light throws me!

it is only the name

there must be some kind of hybrid hammer out there soon for the Vulcan too, I think sticking anything on the hammer spring from outside is just plain wrong.
I may be wrong though O:-)

Hoot:

He’s our personal Jesus.

quote eelect:

I say again uncle Hoot. Reverse drill bit. Only major problem is to get the center of screw when you start. Maybe have to dremmel it flat first. Either way it’s a chore. I was able to reverse drill mine out but I had socket head on it when I did it. Zonk sent me some replacements which I only finger tightened. You might want to put a hair dryer on it for a while before you try the extraction process

:hoot:

Will do…

Hoot:

I say again uncle Hoot. Reverse drill bit. Only major problem is to get the center of screw when you start. Maybe have to dremmel it flat first. Either way it’s a chore. I was able to reverse drill mine out but I had socket head on it when I did it. Zonk sent me some replacements which I only finger tightened. You might want to put a hair dryer on it for a while before you try the extraction process

quote eelect:

Hoot get a hold of a reversed drill bit. Napa should have some

:hoot:

Problem is, that hex screw is probably harder than the surrounding metal it screws into, plus that little sucker is only 3mm big, and I don’t believe I can find a reverse bit smaller than that.

The bit wouldn’t have anything to bite into to get it to break loose and turn. This is a difficult problem to solve.

Hoot:

Hoot get a hold of a reversed drill bit. Napa should have some

quote Zonk:

One thing to be careful about when removing those tiny screws. It’s a metric allen, insert allen in bolt and use a small hammer and give it a good tap to “Break it Free” the head strips easy. I gave mine 2 or 3 good taps and only stripped one head. Others weren’t so luck…………..

:hoot:

DANGER DANGER!!! What the Zonk says is true! Those metric heads not only strip easily, being small and apparently soft metal, the heads can break off and then you really have a problem. I’ve replaced my metric head OEM screws with Phillips Head screws. I snapped the head off of one of those little rascals when tightening it. The head snapped off and stuck on my metric hex wrench. Now THERE’S a situation to deal with.

Does anyone know how to get a screw out if the head broke off? Replacing the whole part it goes into is one solution…but expensive! You can’t use an Easy-Out because there’s no head left on the screw, just the shaft…. :angrymob:

Hoot:

One thing to be careful about when removing those tiny screws. It’s a metric allen, insert allen in bolt and use a small hammer and give it a good tap to “Break it Free” the head strips easy. I gave mine 2 or 3 good taps and only stripped one head. Others weren’t so luck…………..

quote benj397:

Thanks. Just to clarify, there isn’t any need to degas the gun – correct?

And I assume one just needs to count the turns to remove the spring adjuster and replace with the same # of turns?

No you don’t have to degas the gun. My hammer spring adjuster is flush with back so I don’t need to count

Thanks. Just to clarify, there isn’t any need to degas the gun – correct?

And I assume one just needs to count the turns to remove the spring adjuster and replace with the same # of turns?

quote benj397:

Ok, I have the delrin part that replaces the brass part. I also want to add the grommet. So,

1. How does one go about installation?
2. Do you need to degas the gun? if so, how is that accomplished?
3. I see that the side plate needs to be removed.
4. Do you use the hammer stake tool to remove that fitting and pull out the metal spring guide?
5. Then its a matter of removing the 2 springs, and pulling out the hammer, etc?

Not sure what your asking for, the install of grommet or your new part.
Either way its is stupid simple. If you look at this post we have pictures of a Vulcan with cover off to access the hammer spring. This is the rear cover on right side of gun. IF you can get the cover off good for you as mine didn’t come out. Had to do some surgery on bolts.
Anyway screw out hammer spring adjuster in the rear this will enable you to taken out spring and hammer. This will allow you to swap out the brass part with new part too. If you want to add the grommet mod then you apply grommet when you slide in the hammer spring. Mine is very tight so i have to screw grommet onto spring.

Ok, I have the delrin part that replaces the brass part. I also want to add the grommet. So,

1. How does one go about installation?
2. Do you need to degas the gun? if so, how is that accomplished?
3. I see that the side plate needs to be removed.
4. Do you use the hammer stake tool to remove that fitting and pull out the metal spring guide?
5. Then its a matter of removing the 2 springs, and pulling out the hammer, etc?

quote LURKER #1:

quote kris:


lurker it will rain in there if you leave it like that.

💡 Thanks for the idea. I may be the first to have a plastic window on a Vulcan so I can show what work I did inside :mrgreen:

A little rough but I’ll look for some thicker plastic tomorrow.

I can’t see your work you got the gun back in the stock!!!

quote oakey631:

quote Sir Ville:

No. We need no stinking streets – people fly around in their UFO’S.

Skickat från min SM-T550 via Tapatalk

I was in Finland when I saw that UFO

That is rather typical, in Finland there’s little to do so people spend most of their time being drunk. They do see UFOs and other strange things, that’s because they are drunk lying on the floor and think that the lantern on the wall is actually a light in the sky. Electric lighting is rather rare as are streets. People usually commute over frozen lakes from village to another, avoiding those huge forests with wolfpacks.

PEEK, one of the hardest plastics out there: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PEEK

quote Sir Ville:

No. We need no stinking streets – people fly around in their UFO’S.

Skickat från min SM-T550 via Tapatalk

I was in Finland when I saw that UFO

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