I appreciate the cant but……..
Holy crap.
Talk about the yang of barrel droop.
As others have mentioned you can’t get your scope zero’d in unless you have a scope with mega adjustment on tap.
F shims.
Got a pair of Burris Signature Zee rings and posi line inserts on order.
Might want to lessen that cant just a tad Ed,IMO.
Love the rifle just the same.
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I had a Lelya in 177 that I wanted to use for pistol FT. The issue was it was too long under the new rules (15″ from end of barrel/mod to breech) and so I sold it to get the Matador. When I ordered it the rule was 15″ barrel measured without the mod.
I liked the Lelya a lot but the trigger made it difficult to keep such a small rifle on target. I’m sure I could have messed with it and made it better but the opportunity came up for me to get rid of it and knowing I had an EdGun to replace it I took it.
It went to a great home and I have no doubt the new owner will cherish it and treat it like their own child. 😆
But man was that thing TINY!!! 😯 😕 I’m tall with long arms and I had issues holding that little thing like a rifle and not a pistol… 😀
As a bit of engineering i’m sad to have let it go, but unless I was going to keep it just to have it I don’t think it would have got much use. The Matador on the other hand will see lots of use.
I have lots of pellets and air is only a short drive away.
I’m hoping the Matador likes the JSB pellets my USFT does not. 😯 I need to make a post about the new JSB 177 pellets, so far half of the 12 tins I ordered are good (3/8″ group at 45 yards) and the other half are bad (1 1/2″ group at 45 yards) with the weird part being some tins in the same shipment were good and others bad…
I’ll use the bad JSB tins for chrony work if they produce similar speeds to the good ones. I have developed a process of checking my velocities prior to each match and cleaning the barrel then as well. I clean the trigger unit two to three times a year to be sure it stays as light as possible. Don’t know about you but I LOVE the USFT trigger. Closest airgun trigger to my PB Jewell trigger I have ever used. I have zero first stage (take up) and the second stage takes just a little pressure to fire the rifle. Some people hate those triggers. 😕
Frank…. without knowing the details of your scope and rings I cant give you
a good answer.
The fact you have the Burris Z rings on order will fix your problem..
What is great about that system is you can “Optically Center” your scope and
get your desired zero and get the maximum range for scope adjustment.
Mark
I’m about 8″ high at 50 yards with my scopes adjustment bottomed out.
I did loosen and retighten the rail just in case.
I am totally opposite you !!!! Real LOW cheek weld.. Most people can’t handle it. I have spent a lot of time behind Long Range PB’s …..its just what works for me.
I think the Leyla may not have a canted rail…??
With regards to scopes….I have learned NOT to be a SNOB…. I really love my
S&B’s ……BUT….. I have found some VERY Useable scopes for my AG’s
I can live with less then prefect Glass clarity….
REPEATABILITY is what it is all about!!!! $200 bucks OR $2k Bucks…IF it Works
…..IT WORKS…..What I wont tolerate is lack of REPEATABILITY!!!!!!!!!!!
Do you already have the Leyla ????
Hope you got LOTs of Pellets and Air……..
I need to dial from 10 yards to 65… And i’m getting a 177 Matador for field target. 😉 Yeah, leave it to me to do something weird. 😯
I use the Leupold mediums and an Accushot 8-32x. Yeah it’s a crap scope but it clicks as well as my $1000 Nikko 10-50x, just not as clear at high mag.
I also like a real tight cheek weld (tight meaning high). So high most people can’t even shoot my rifles.
I don’t have an issue on my USFT which has a good deal of distance from the cl of the scope to the cl of the bore (2.6″)…
ONE MORE DAY!!!! 😆
Well, more like 15 HOURS!!!! 😈
Syn…. Don’t worry about the droop!
I have the Hawke 8.5X25 20x mildot… on my R3 .25 standard.
(Newest Version…2013 delivery)
Zeroed at 50 yards….. can dial down to 25 yards but I am at the Bottom of
the turret rotation. Gives plenty of elevation for distance.
I think the trick may be which Rings you mount the scope with. If I remember
correctly the higher the rings the harder it will be to zero the scope at “Short”
Distance…. I am using the Warne Maximum High Rings.
Your gonna LOVE the R3 .25!!!!!
Mark
Ok, now you officially have me worried. 😕
What distances are you having trouble at?
I will be using mine out to 65 yards at most and the drop for my caliber will probably be much larger than yours. 😉
I will let you know how mine does tomorrow!!! 😀
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8″ high with the scope “bottomed” out.
I’m assuming you mean topped out. You bring up the reticle to match the poi right?
Either way it is said i’m sure you were twisting it the right way. 😉
For setting up my scope for field target competition I use Chairgun. I have to say that programs is like magic!!
For shooting 10-60 yards I usually get a 30 yard zero.
Then I go to the range and shoot it at 30 yards adjusting the scope until the reticle is at poi. I then loosen the scope knob and set it at zero. For 10 yards I have to click up 95 clicks and at 60 yards I have to click up 38 clicks.
With the droop on the rail (USFT) I get about 20 clicks before I am topped out over the 95 it takes to get spot on at 10 yards (which is nice since I know when I am a full rotation over my zero).
When I arrive at a match I shoot at 30 yards clicking until I am spot on, then I set my scope knob to zero and my clicks are spot on. I have found with temperature and humidity change I can be off as many as 16 clicks at 30 yards.
I then shoot at the 10 and 60 yard extremes to verify everything is working.
I can’t imagine doing this for hunting but at the same time it would certainly make it so you know what is happening if you miss!
I have charts that I laminate that have the clicks from 10-60 yards in 5 yard increments for velocities from 820-900 in 20 fps increments. If I find my rifle is dropping more at 60 yards I grab the chart that best matches the clicks and shoot the match.