I may be onto something here……….
………anyway, been experimenting again with my stealth/talon silencer and, i have concluded the the 12 inch barrel is too short to eradicate the muzzle crack to an acceptable level no matter how i pack the silencer….even at 11.6 ft lb its still quite a crack…..so…….i decided to take the end off the silencer and take out all the packing and replace it with a 12 inch length of plastic tube (with some electrical tape wrapped around it, it slides into the end of the silencer quite snugly) with a bung at the muzzle with an appropriate size hole, so 5inches of the pipe is in the origional silencer and 7inches protruding from the end…..guess what?…..nice and quiet! 😀 So, took it all apart again and stuffed 4 inches of scotchbrite wrapped around a spring in the end of the pipe and, a bit quieter again………..but heres the thing, i noticed that after each shot, the pipe moved forward about an inch, i dont mean that after a few shots the thing dropped out, it only moved an inch on the first shot and then stayed there (interesting methinks) so anyway to countermand this, i taped the joint between the pipe and the origional silencer to prevent this movement and guess what? its louder again! (not as loud as the origional silencer) but still good. So, off with the tape again so its free floating again and after each shot, pushed the tube back down all the way home and its all nice and quiet……you can see what im getting at here….the forward movement of the plastic pipe is absorbing a considerable amount of energy (noise)……all i need now is a return spring! 😆 😆 😆 ……….seriously tho i think i may be onto something here, and i can start shortening the length of the pipe to see what happens and find the optimum length etc………
Cheers 🙂
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😆 now thats what im talkin about Powderburner……..nice one, il bet thats real quiet……….
im gonna try the felt Packrat, i just need to go to my mothers on Sunday as she has a load of it………..today (well, just now) i have repacked (around the usual 2inch springs x3) my moderator with firstly 2layers of very fine bug mesh followed by a layer of scotchbrite followed by a layer of string backed wool carpet!…..3 of these units in the plastic pipe, one at the muzzle, one in the middle and one at the other end, all with a half inch gap inbetween….not had chance to try it yet as its now 11.10 pm, but will report back after testing tomorrow 🙂
The felt , in my experience, is MUCH better than the “cleaning pads”…The felt is much less porous, and very “soft” which means it absorbs much better..Craft stores sell this stuff called “bead mat” which is another GREAT deadening material..goes for like @2.00 a sheet..
Well stick a piece of sheet felt up to your face and holler thru it, then take the scotch brite and do the same thing .
I have bought a bigger piece of pipe to make a bigger around shround to keep the over all length the same, but have never built it because the one i have on the gun works fine. If you know what you are listening to , you can hear my rifle from 30 yards away , but if had no idea , it would just sound like maybe hitting your stomach with your open hand.with shirt on.
As a matter of fact i have tested this with my neighbors, and dry fired the gun from a hidden place while they were in the yard and they never looked up.
I have 7 chambers in the shroud on the gun, it’s right at 1” I D . , basically it’s like 6 washers with a piece of 1/2” conduit welded between them, there is a 3/8” hole in the washers and holes drilled into the 1/2” pipe the full length cross way between the washers, and the felt is wrapped around the 1/2” pipe to the full inside diameter of the shroud.
The entrance hole on the barrel side is .229 and the exit from the outside is the same.
I would like to build another one with 1 1/2” ID pipe and make the baffle the same with more sections to see if i can get it to lesson even more the slight puff noise that comes out, like when i have the long extension on.i have the 1 1/2” ID conduit and washers fit inside perfect , i just need to get a piece turned down to fit into the frame,
I do not have access to a lathe so it is pretty tough making these.i have to weld a 1/2” round stock to a washer , then weld the washer to the pipe i need to turn down, then chuck the 1/2” round stock in a drill and lock it into a bech vise, with the pipe that i need to turn down resting on two casters so i can turn the stock against the casters to file and grind to the proper diameter. 😥
I had a logun silencer that had felt around an inner core. There was plenty room for something thicker like scotchbrite – maybe they tried both and felt worked better.
This is all Ive used for the last year. Its an 11″ 1.25″ID carbon tube, with a 3.5″ long delrin insert in the end. The bore is .308, and it has three 1″ chambers bored into it.
The frame adapter is as thin as I could make it out of aluminum, wall thickness less than 1/8″ to allow air to flow backward into the frame.
I shoot from my gun room, out an open window. My wife is in the next room, and rarely hears it. My dogs don’t even seem to mind.
Theres a lot of internal volume in this design, and thats what makes it work.
No felt or scotch-brite, just air. The front bushing is ventilated, and there are three 1/8″ holes drilled in the bottom of the frame. The insert is flat on the end nearest the muzzle, which directs most of the air back into the frame.
I hear the hammer, the ping, all that, but nothing else does cuz they are dead already.
The pellet impact however, thats a different story. 😉
Your neighbors, wife, dogs ect… are going to hear that.
I used to have a couple vids of it in action, but camera microphones do a bad job in this respect. Maybe I should use the iPhone and take a decible reading?
I guess what I’m getting at is, don’t over-engineer your design. The neighbors are still going to hear your pellets, and the game you shoot are going to be just as dead.
You are however, going to get that warm and fuzzy feeling when your design is unique.
Hell of an interesting concept you have here. A self volume-compensating design.
Neat! Probably why rubber fender washers worked so well. Too bad I couldnt keep them in place.
😆
I made an extension for my shroud along while back , which added 7 more baffle section with insulation in between. it took away what was left of any air report coming out of the end of the shroud, It went from PUFF to puff, (LOL) I basically wanted to see what making a very long shroud would do.
At the gun you could hear a very slight difference, but 30 yards in front of the gun you couldn’t hear either one, so i never messed around with trying to make a bigger around or longer shroud.
I can still use it if i want it slides over the top of the shroud attached to the gun.
😯 2 foot long… 😯
Pictures Please ❗ ❗
I’ve never heard of one that long. It could be a record. And it works…WOW
Goes back to what baffle design is best as once your happy with the noise if the action then it leaves you with the silencer set up.
So what now TU? 😮
😆 your gonna laugh………today i remade my plastic tube moderator to 2feet long……yes u read it right……2feet……..nothing in it just a bung at the end with a hole in it, again, just to see what happens……well, mouse farts happen…..totally impractical of course but it has told me this…………
1. the noise that is bugging me isnt coming from the breach
2. nor is it coming from the hammer
3.nor is it coming from the valve/tank
so with those potentially noisy mechanisms ruled out for sure i can concentrate fully on the muzzle/moderator 😀
Yes, I work at a gun store and we sell full auto’s and supressors. Different companies use different designs and materials, but the operating principles are the same. Contain and re-direct the pressure ie. pressure delay in order to avoid the muzzle blast. Just a muffler that only has to deal with one pressure wave at a time instead of multiple waves like an automobile muffler.
Of course this is very simplified, but you get the picture.
Well this thread has gotten my curiousity in high gear ! I think I will build another LDC using the Mellon muzzle brake shell….
So, what is the OD of factory .177 TSS barrel ?? wanna make sure I order correct size 😀 .thanks….
edited to correct spelling 😳
The tube idea will work but if drilled allowing some of the first expantion to happen here. The trick will be to get as much work done as possible before the air starts working through the silencer.
Keep experimenting 😀
im totally with u there tatsumi, its a case of finding exactly the right density of material…..also, im going to bridge the gap between the end of the barrel to the start of the moderator with some white half inch plastic pipe….it fits tightly over the barrel and if i cut it a mil over length the screwing on of the moderator will sit nice and tight up to it…….my theory been is to eliminate that first small chamber altogether and channel that blast of air straight into the much larger space of the moderator….just to see what happens. B4 anyone helpfully mentions drilling the front mounting etc, iv already done all that to not much effect and i think this is because it is asking a lot of high pressure air travelling forward to suddenly go backwards, it will relieve some of the pressure of course but it still has to explode into that small chamber first……besides, i think i can release some of the pressure in the first section of the moderator via some tiny holes….drilled quite literally with a needle (into the plastic tube).
Quite an obvious question really, but has anyone ever seen inside a powderburner silencer? i mean, for real, not just pictures on the internet?
Think that was me on a past post. Clearly a lot of people are finding felt better over other materials so will give this ago.
When I was testing foams and pads of different types I noticed better results with types that allowed air to pass through with medium resistance, best way to discribe it sorry. I figure if the material is too dense then it will create a chamber effect as most if the air will not be passed through.
If its less dense then the air can circulate through and the fibres will create the slowing effect we need by creating more turbulance,bit like reflex cones.
On that it seems to me that a material with thick fibres but medium density at the first chambers then one with thinner and more dense at the end chambers would work well.
Im interested in water method but in the feild how does it last,maybe a gel like substance like you get in bike seats? Not sure how the water effects it so just guessing.
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I bought my sheet felt at Walmart in the cloth section. i buy my pillow ticking material there too for patches for round ball, for my muzzleloaders.
also i have tried carpet, denim material, scotch brite, pipe insulation, thin leather sheet, and no sound material at all in the baffle section and i think the felt did the best.