Just ordered my first Edgun…say hi to the newb.

I have a 177, not sure if the bolt is strong enough to swage a 22 into the barrel.., 😉

Check out this post on the Yellow!!!!!

http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/thread/1383258454/Ten+-Shot+Groups%2C+shot+by+computer.

If I can find some heavy ones (10+ grains, round nose) I plan on trying them out as well.

At this point nothing is off the table. 😉

Doesn’t really matter, I can’t get JSB’s or AA’s to fly straight in bulk or head sized.

If it were just the case in my USFT i’d say it was the barrel. Well the Cricket and the EdGun do the exact same thing… Tried velocities from 920 to 750, nothing, tried lube, tried shooting over a chrony to see if there were velocity differences for the flyers, nope. Just ordered a good scale so I can weigh them to see if that is the issue (+/- 0.02grain scale).

Shit, in the 16 tins of the AA I just bought, two tins were a different skirt design. Die #30 made on 1/17/2013. The ‘normal’ skirt is die #42 made on 2/7/2013… I even weighed them, both are 10 grains plus. The die #30 ones with the strange skirt are CRAP even at close ranges.

I’m going to try out the H&N super heavy match pellets in 4.50, 4.51, 4.52 and 4.53 to see if I can get some decent 45 yard indoor groups. Also this winter i’m going to make some type of vise for my various airguns to see if I can eliminate the shooter from this equation.

Just seen him push too many products that don’t work simply because he was told to by his employers…

Oh and then there was the one petroleum base oil he recommended for lubing HPA fittings… Great advice for saving a few dollars and losing a limb or two.

And the one about the defective AF Condor valve that he said was working ‘perfectly’, the one they later redesigned because it was fucked up…

He’d get some slack if he was actually giving advice. But notice the ‘plug’ at the end.

I can’t take anything he says seriously because you never know what’s a plug and what’s advice.

PA sent me 10 dented tins of pellets (they were packed in two pieces of paper, some jackass thought the thin cardboard sleeve was going to hold the tins together in a giant box), as a whole there were two tins full plus with bent skirts after I sorted through ALL 5000 pellets with a pair of tweezers. I sent a photo as requested, even gave an exact count of dented skirts, did I see any free tins back, nope, ZERO.

Just recently they sent me a set of well packed AA tins (16 total) but two of the tins were already dented. Guess what is inside dented tins of pellets? Apparently PA doesn’t know what happens when pellet tins get dented because if they know they wouldn’t ship them for FULL PRICE. So when TG says they stand behind their product should I dismiss my real world experience and believe his BS?

If it starts with BS and ends with BS I think everything in the middle is going to be BS as well.

SE, which email are you referring to? Are the EdGuns here and shipping?

Typical BBpelliter, or Tom Gaylord. Same person. He knows just enough to get us in trouble. AND has no problem giving false info with his “Expert” Opinion.

He is a blow-hard of the highest order, and has be caught by the better informed here on the TAG so many times that I can’t count them!

No, Single coated lens are NOT superior to multicoated. There is Single coated lens, Multi-coated lens and Fully Multi-coated lens. In Top Scopes, you will not find single coated lens. EVER!

Single coated means only the outer lens, ocular, or objective, (One or both) are coated only where the outer lens touches the atmosphere. It is the cheapest of the cheap. And dammed near useless.

Fully coated means That both front and possibly rear lens are coated front and back. But only one coating, of one type is applied.

Multi coated means There is more than one layer, to combat different light wave lengths. Where as, single coating can only combat ONE wave length. And will give out a washed out image in many situations.

Fully Multi coated, means ALL lens thought the Scope are coated, both front and back, with several coatings in order to filter different wave lengths. Such as Blue light that kills crisp viewing. They are there to kill scattered light which flairs out a scope, and kills the deep blacks, which give super resolution.

All Top optics have Fully Multi-Coated optics. A cheap toy scope has none. Kinda lets ya know which is which. 😆

bottom line, look for quality optical devices, with Fully-Multicoated Lens. These are not just factory buz words. They have a very specific meaning.

Saying a single coating is superior to a Multicoated lens is like saying a single cylinder engine is superior to a V-8, V-10, or V12. Sure it is.!!! 🙄 🙄 🙄 BB Pelletier should put his pen away and retire. He cost us all Way too much with his years of misinformation. Sure, he has a lot of good info, but a wide eyed, newbie has no way of knowing which is good, and which is BS. 👿 Sadly, many an experienced shooter falls for his BS as well.

Knife

How timely (I just got the email). How to pick a scope by Tom Gaylord. He throws a real nice plug in there for Hawke Sidewinders.

I think one of his main points that I always try to convince folks about is that you can no longer just go with a given manufacturer because each one may sell a great line and a junk line that have nothing to do with it other. Hawke Sidewinders are very good but Hawke Varmints are pretty crappy relatively speaking for example. Leupold has Var-IIIs that are pretty good and Var-IIs that are pretty crappy. Vortex Vipers are pretty good and Crossfires suck. The Crossfire I’s had an 80% failure rate. The II’s are better but more expensive.

http://www.pyramydair.com/airgun-resources/toms-scope-tips.shtml?utm_source=bm23&utm_medium=email&utm_term=Tom%27s+Top-9+Scope+Tips.+Expert+advice+that+will+help+you+zero+in.&utm_content=10%2F30%2F2013&utm_campaign=AG+Tom%27s+Top-9+Scope+Tips

1.
Get good glass!

You can’t hit what you can’t see! The quality of the glass in the lenses; the coatings on the glass; and the perfection with which the optics were ground, finished and handled during production are all more important than superfluous features like illuminated reticles and mil dots.

I look for clarity in a scope long before I consider anything else. I’ve been known to select a 4x scope over a 4-16x just for this reason.

If you have a chance to test a scope before buying, test it by trying to focus at close range and read fine print. Look out at the edges of the image. Are they as sharp? Point the scope into a dark area and see if it highlights what’s there or just muddies the image.

2.
Don’t shop for a scope by the brand name.

Brand names mean nothing these days. Even Leupold, which does make some superior optics such as the Vari-X III models, also makes mediocre scopes…like the Vari-X II line. The same holds true for Leapers, Hawke and most others. I’ve seen Nikon, Burris and even Nightforce scopes that weren’t very clear. The fact that a scope company can make superior scopes has no bearing on what they put into your scope.

Shop for scopes by the model and look only at reports for that exact model. You may get a sense that some makers put a lot of quality in certain scopes, and if you do, use that information. For example, I’ve told you several times that the Hawke 4.5-14X42 Tactical Sidewinder is a super scope. It stands head and shoulders above many other models and brands in the same price range. I know it’s not cheap, but it’s worth the price.

I have also touted several Leapers scopes in my reports. Leapers has been working to improve their scopes for the past 15 years, and it really shows. The top line of Leapers scopes is the Accushot Premium series, branded as UTG Accushot scopes. The UTG 8-32X56 Accushot rifle scope is an example of a scope that delivers about twice as much value as the price indicates. Yes, it’s also not cheap, but it has all the desirable features.

What should you look for? Look for glass lenses. Look for etched-glass reticles that will automatically have the fine (but visible) crosshairs you need. Look for single coatings of magnesium fluorite or emerald on the lenses. Both will enhance light transmission, where multi-coated optics are always a compromise. Look for 30mm scope tubes whose lenses are larger and also transmit more light. And look for lockable reticle adjustments that don’t need tools to adjust.

3.
Don’t adjust any scope above 3/4 elevation or more than 3/4 to the right.

This has become my mantra because I see it crop up every time there’s a problem with “scope shift.” Scope shift seems to be almost non-existent, except when shooters adjust the scope too far up or too far to the right that the erector tube return-spring is relaxed. No scope in the world can hold its zero at that point.

The problem is universal, and the diagnosis is simple. Simply adjust the scope knobs down and to the left a lot, then shoot a group at least 25 yards away (farther is better). Sure, it won’t be in the right place; but if it’s tight and you can shoot repeatedly without any wandering, you know the problem is not with the scope. It’s with the mount. You need to align the scope’s axis with the barrel axis, and the problem will be solved. Either shim the scope or use an adjustable mount…you can stop criticizing the scope and get on with the fix.

4.
Pick the power carefully.

Just like you don’t buy scopes by their brands, don’t buy them by their power, either. An excellent 4x scope can often outshoot a mediocre 16x scope. And it’s certainly easier on your eyes.

This is one reason I have so many vintage scopes. They don’t have the power of the modern scopes, but their optics are so clear that it doesn’t matter. This goes back to my first tip: Get good glass!

5.
Consider a sidewheel objective adjustment.

It takes only a few minutes shooting field target to make this lesson clear. Instead of reaching out an arm’s length to turn an objective bell that’s probably very stiff to turn, a sidewheel objective adjustment puts the controls at your fingertips. I’d say that it’s the difference between power brakes and manual brakes on a car, but very few who are under 40 know what manual brakes are anymore. You young guys will just have to trust me on this.

6.
Think about where the scope will be going.

If you don’t consider where the scope has to be mounted, it may not even fit on the gun you have or are about to buy. The same holds for scope mounts. Will they fit on the gun? Where’s the scope stop located, if you need one?

The biggest mistake shooters make on this account is that they try to mount a short scope on a rifle whose scope stop puts the eyepiece too far from the eye when the rifle is held naturally. This happens a lot with UTG Bug Buster scopes on springers like Gamos and Hatsans. You’re better off mounting a scope with a long eye relief, such as the CenterPoint Power Class 1TL 3-9×42 AO scope, on rifles like this, unless the scope tube is long enough to reach back.

7.
Consider target turrets.

This may put some shooters off, but a scope with target turrets is so much easier to work with than one that cannot show you how much elevation and right adjustment has been applied. Target turrets usually cost more because they’re found on better scopes, but they pay you back when you’re setting up a gun or swapping the scope to a different gun.

Which adjustment gives the most information about the scope’s current state?
The coin-operated knob on the right or the target turret on the left?

8.
Get adjustable parallax!

Parallax does matter to airgunners because we always shoot so close to the target. Parallax changes dramatically between 25 and 50 yards, but almost not at all between 100 and 150 yards. Firearm scope users seldom need parallax correction (what some call focusing) like airgunners do.

Yes, you can change the distance for which a scope is adjusted when it has fixed parallax; but after you do, it’s still fixed. It’s only good (focused) at that distance.

9.
Shop for a good dealer

The dealer is the bottom line. One dealer will stand behind everything he sells and another will not. I will pay a premium to do business with good dealers. Yes, I’m talking about Pyramyd Air, but it doesn’t stop with them. There are many good dealers out there, and I make it my business to find out who they are before doing business with them.

Optics can have problems from the factory. More than other items, they’re products that do need to be returned sometimes. Having a dealer support you when that happens means a lot.

10.
Summary

If you were to talk to me in person about scopes, these are some of the things I would tell you. And I would jump up and down about the third tip. That’s the one that hits me every time I’m called in to solve a scope problem. If the scope has target turrets, I can spot this problem from 10 feet away. I can also do it just by listening to the shooter converse with his buddy on the range…”I need more elevation, but I’ve got the scope dialed up as far as it will go!” That’s a problem just waiting to be discovered.