Q:

Mrodair Compressor Guinea Pig

Hello, a newbie to PCP’s here.
I put in a pre-order for the upcoming Mrodair “Airmax” compressor
Thus, far just an automated acknowledgment receipt from Yahoo and haven’t heard anything more re ETA.

Yep, guinea pig ordering a new product. Hopefully it works out.

Compressors, tanks and pumps

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Viewing 15 replies - 16 through 30 (of 160 total)

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[quote=”guykuo”]Sorry, it has taken a while to get back to this topic. Fell ill and finally feel well enough to work on this.
Can’t believe it has been here in its box for over a month!

same here, I have not had time to use my compressor either( I got it way over a month ago), between strep throat, & then the Flu, & now trying to catch up with work , all I have done is take it out of the box, which was wet when I received it, so when I get time I suppose I should tear mine down to check for oil in cylinders, mine was shipped with some oil in it, it is just a basic package , no upgrades, heck mine didn’t even have any water tank at all, was told that the tank must have been separated in shipping…Guykuo, thanks for the Pics of teardown, & I will also ground mine like you did, I would really like to find a automatic shutoff pressure switch to add to mine when I get a chance, thanks , roger

I wonder if one can fill the gauge oneself or if it is a completely different unit.
I seem to recall someone on the Yellow mentioning something about filling his gauge.
Will have to see if I can find that again.

quote guykuo:

By “fluid in the gauge” do you mean it is glycerin filled or do you mean some water has gotten into it?

Glycerin filled yes.

By “fluid in the gauge” do you mean it is glycerin filled or do you mean some water has gotten into it?

Don’t throw the box away. Mine didn’t have fluid in the pressure gauge either. My new compressor pressure gauge has fluid in it. And shipped no oil in the unit. I amazoned the royal purple listed in a earlier post and used it.

Thanks, Matt. You posted about that rail while I was writing my next post.

I don’t see any fluid in the pressure gauge. I guess water could seep up that line if the
water separator gets overwhelmed.

Yes, it is so nice to be well again.

This post is outdated:

Please see http://www.talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=34635&p=357142#p357142 for more current and accurate information

Is there fluid in your pressure gauge? My electrical was loose just like yours. They actually clip into place on that alumnium strip that’s riveted to the under side. But you got yours attached now. I ended up sends mine back. Sorry to hear ya was sick glad your better.

Sorry, it has taken a while to get back to this topic. Fell ill and finally feel well enough to work on this.
Can’t believe it has been here in its box for over a month!

EDIT – This post is outdated. Please see http://www.talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=34635&p=357142#p357142
for a more up to date information

Pulling the compressor out of the box wasn’t too bad. Just a 70 or 80 lb dead lift.

We all read about the compressors getting shipped now WITHOUT oil in the crankcase, but there really was no way of knowing whether ones own compressor was affected.


Uh Oh! Mine is one of those that WAS shipped with oil. Did USPS tip the compressor or put it on its side?
Now that I know mine is at risk, I guess I have to check…

Meanwhile, may as well remove the shipping bolt and install the oil cover.

Inspection revealed two other issues.

The compressor is NOT actually grounded. I don’t think that the motor and all the rest of the electrics are double grounded.
For best safety, I want a working ground.

Wow, the relay and contactor are free floating. The only thing holding them in place are the wires attached to them.

Going to sort that and the grounding issue out before putting into operation.

Since mine was shipped with oil, I decided to inspect the low pressure cylinder to see if oil has seeped into it.
Removing the two cover panels was simple

First detach the plastic tubing then the metal air pipe.

Four bolts are easily removed to free the cooling block and cylinder cover.

Caution to anyone else doing this. The valve plate is very easy to accidentally drop once the bolts are out. It barely sticks to the cooling block and unless you support BOTH parts, the valve plate can suddenly drop off. Also, note the gasket between the cooling block and valve plate has narrow regions that must seal against the full pressure of the cylinder. If this gasket is damaged, it can blow out in those spots.

Yup. Oil has seeped into my compressor’s low pressure side. You can see some pooled in there.

It has also stained the inside of the cylinder cover and the metallic, flap valve

Some alcohol soaked towels easily wiped away all the oil inside the cylinder and off the valve & cylinder cover.

Put the cylinder back together without much problem. The compressor really is easy to service.
It’s just not a plug and play item. Some prep work is needed to get things working.

Took care of the grounding issue by adding a grounding wire connecting the IEC ground lug to the metal chassis.

Added a metal strap onto which to bolt the relay and contractor. They won’t be free floating, held only by wires any more.

That’s about all I can manage today. How much oil has passed from the low pressure side to the high pressure side isn’t known.
I have cleaned out the low side cylinder. Debating tearing down the high pressure sided. I could just run the
compressor unloaded so it can blow out any that snuck by during its break-in at MrodAIr.

One other thing I can’t find….

There isn’t an air intake filter. One was specified as a feature of the upgrade package when I ordered my unit….

quote :

AIR INTAKE FILTER
A standard commercial air compressor intake filter, with replaceable elements you can
purchase locally for under 5 bucks when changing is required. (Also makes the compressor run MUCH more quietly)

An air intake filter was in the spec when I ordered, so I expected it to be part of the product I received.
It’s not in either box shipped.

I see that feature has since been deleted from the website’s spec for the compressor, and some other owners are trying to
cobble something together. Not a deal killer, but this is a bit disappointing and adds to the semi-DIY nature of this product.

Next round I’ll tacking adding some wheels and the cooing system.

.

How long to fill a 90ci 4500psi tank? 8 mins from 2k to 4.5k drained moisture off twice. We’ve had a lot of rain. Topped off my great white 3k to 4.5k 35 mins. I had to shut down several times. My operating temps climbed to 70c when it cooled back down to 30c I’d start the fill cycle and that’s with 3 gal of water circulating.

Sounds good. You can’t pamper expensive stuff too much IMO.

I received mine in good shape. Just would like to know what kind of oil is used in these things. And how many hours of operation between changes. Just a good guess would be appreciated.

Hey Guys,

We are getting some feedback and have noticed more of the same in regard to residual matter in the moisture seperator.

It is a very good idea to check the dissicant insert for this.

We will be posting here to address this speciffically.

Would rather be safe than sorry.

We understand this will eventually need to be cleaned out, but on some of the first orders we sent out, this has been the case right out of the box.

Appologies for having to do this so soon, but we would rather be safe than sorry.

The issue, seems to be that some of the very first 14 compressors we shipped with oil in the crankcase and were turned on their sides in shipping and can get some seepage and may leave some residual oil in the cylinder.

After those first 14 shipped, we of course drained all of these units and send the oil separate and will always do this in the future.

Now, this is very important.

To address this, be certain to check.

Here is how.

Hook up the compressor as normal and start circulating the cooling system.

Do not connect any fitting or dead head to the hose but run the compressor for a few minutes, so it will not build any pressure.

Stop the compressor and unplug it.

Remove the hard line and large nut from the top of the moisture seperator and remove the small inner canister.

This has a small sintered bronze filter on the bottom.

Remove this filter, by unscrewing and pour out and inspect the dissicant beads inside.

Discard if any trash or other residue are present.

Clean and replace the beads, with one of the filter elements from the inline filter provided.

Reassemble and replace the hard line and tighten fitting.

Plug the compressor back in and start the coolant.

Run the compressor, for about 10 minutes and re inspect the filter material.

We want your compressor to last you a long long time guys and to identify and assist you in addressing issues or even possible issues such as these.

It is much better safe than sorry guys and we want to be sure we keep this hobby safe.

We have also posted another video on YouTube to assist you in setting up your upgraded cooling system.

Check it out.

Thanks Guys

Step One Completed —- Got my 30 amp 120 volt RV service outlet installed.

One trip to Lowe’s, instead of the traditional three! Took a while to find the required 120 volt, 30 amp “RV service” receptacle
and plug (TT-30R & TT-30P)

DEFINITELY DO NOT GET THESE CONFUSED WITH THE 240 VOLT SERVICE RECEPTACLES!

Here are the goodies before and after installation.

Used 10 gauge Romex for just a three foot run. Definitely sufficient ampacity based on my calculations.
Compressor peak draw 22 amps / 0.8 derating = 28 amps. Leaves a bit of wiggle room for the circulating pump.

I replaced the NEMA 5-15P plug on the MrodAir supplied power cord with a TT-30P plug.
That 12g cord’s diameter is a bit small for the TT-30P strain relief.
So, I added extra vinyl insulation to get enough diameter.
The supplied 12 g cord and IEC connector (IEC 60320 C13 / C14 hence 15 amp rated)
on the compressor are a bit small for the load, but those portions I can readily monitor for heat.

Wiring inside a wall, one should not risk overheating. Nor should one run
breakers on a prolonged basis near their load max. A safe derating
is about 80% of stated max. Hence, my wiring a dedicated circuit
with sufficiently heaving wires, appropriate receptacle and breaker.

For more info about 30 amp 120 volt service, see
http://www.myrv.us/Imgs/PDF/30-amp%20Service.pdf

STD warning. Don’t do your own wiring if you don’t have the experience to do it safely.

Now, if only the cooling system would arrive.

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