Q:

New $210 Tuxing 4500psi compact compressor

After much deliberation I have bought a compressor to fill my PCPs and pony bottles.
I was torn between spending decent money on a Bauer JNR or just take a risk on a cheep Chinese job.
The new Altaros booster looked great but it still relies on a regular work shop compressor to operate which would mean I would have to spend more money upgrading my current workshop cheapo or it would soon let me down.

So after searching many cheap Chinese compressors I found this one that is very well priced and fairly new to the market.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PCP-Inflator-Electrical-Air-Compressor-for-airgun-cylinder-High-Pressure-300Bar-4500psi-Paintball-Refilling-110V-220V/32757013722.html

Size L 35cm x W 18cm x H 34cm
Net Weight 17KG
Power 220V-240V 50HZ or 100-130V 60HZ
Motor Power 1.8 KW Pressure :300bar/4500psi
Inflating speed 2800r/min
Noise78DB

Fill an empty 500cc bottle to 300bar in about 5 minutes and direct airgun cylinders topped up from 120bar to 300bar in 2 mins

It boasts a new design water jacket for better cooling than the open tube tube compressors and seems to have some really great reviews so far.
Buyer reviews here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4500PSI-compressor-300bar-Electric-portable-pump/32691757608.html?spm=2114.13010208.99999999.264.AAz6YJ

I had no real need to fill 12ltr dive bottles with a compressor (which Im sure this one will do) so a lightweight will suit my needs.
It will be mainly used to direct fill my PCPs, top up my 500cc backpack bottle from 180 to 300bar and top up my 3ltr pony bottle from 180bar to 240bar.
Between them all I have more than enough air for an outing.
I had some reserves about build quality but it is a very simple unit and I had the seller pack in enough piston seals, O rings and plastic seats to rebuild the thing ten times over for a very reasonable $7 extra.
The Seller was extremely helpful and seems to know his product with full back up service parts available.
Fuxing my Tuxing looks to be very simple and it lends itself to loads of upgrades such as a larger oil/air separator.
I just received a litre of high quality Special Bauer full synthetic breathing air compressor oil which cost me a crazy $70 but there is enough for 4 services. (1000 hour intervals)

The unit arrived in New Zealand from China via TNT in a very speedy 4 days! Currently being held in customs but I hope to see it any day now.
Ill add to my review as I spend some time using it.

My expectations are realistic with any Chinese purchase but the price seemed right on this one.. It is really not much more than a motorised 2 stage hand pump and keeping that in mind the price is very reasonable.
I will be using it for very short intervals not hours on end like the shoe box compressor etc require so wear and tear should be a lot less.







Compressors, tanks and pumps

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Viewing 15 replies - 91 through 105 (of 257 total)

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quote zhoy19:

now it runs faster than a queer at a hotdog eating contest

:rofl: :rofl: never heard that one before 😛

quote Hoot:

quote zhoy19:

quote Gqjeff:

Ya I would need the 110v anyways and the others r listed as 220v.

I was struggling with that too. If you wanted the better one a voltage step up from 110-220 can be had for ~$50 on amazon.

:hoot:

On Amazon, how would I identify this voltage step-up from 110 to 220? Is there a specific name for this device?

Thanks!

Hoot:

Sir I just wanted to correct this post. If you are going this route don’t buy anything less than a 5000v step up or you’ll be returning it like I did. With the 1000v wouldn’t even run for one second before blowing the fuse. With the 5000v I have now it runs faster than a queer at a hotdog eating contest. No blown fuses since and runs very cool.

someone could take pictures when this baby will be disassembled?
does we can find easily the electric motor if it died?

Nice that something actually works that doesn’t cost a arm and a leg.
We have more snow in southern Finland.

Marko

Topped it off again and went out. Works good

It was dieseling though, so that’s why I took it apart, cleaned it up and put it together, works nice

It actually gets really dry air. I filled my 1,1L tank from about 150 bar to 300 bar yesterday. The trick is to ignore the side bleed valve because it doesn’t seem to do anything, and instead use the actual main bleed valve every two minutes or so. Just a slight open/close and it will squirt out a lot of moisture, so much it is almost worrying, but when you are done and open up that small filter provided with the compressor you see why, using this technique it is bone dry, or as close as makes no matter. I use my gold filter wich makes it take a long time, but really there is no need. This is the first time I actually fill all the way to 300 bar but man, I like it. Zero regrets on this purchase!

More to come as I use it more

So is the air circulating via all those pipes and cooling between stages? If so then it’s pretty clever design. Purging often enough and adding desiccant filter to output should get you pretty ok dry air.
Simple and effective, I like it.

Marko

They seem to have beefed it up. Some changes from the inside:

quote jmdesignz2:

quote steeldreams007:

This is the compressor that I recommended which a friend bought a few months earlier. It was not branded as Tuxing at the time.

I think, this is a better and improved design compared to the other where the air tubes are exposed outside the pump.

Hey Steel – any further updates on this? Issues or work arounds? Best set up practices?

My friend told me he sold that compressor because it has no automatic cut off.

I suspect he has not read the manual well.

Damn Guykuo you know yer stuff about this! Thanks again. I’ll keep all posted on any progress.
jimiray

Yep. A lot of the internals are just the keep the water contained. If you have a leak on seal between the pressurized segments, you’ll see air injected into your coolant stream. No air, but 25 PSI means those water seals are OK.

Focus your attention on the pressurized segments. Assuming you didn’t put any of the valves in backwards and are seeing 25 PSI output, I am going to bet on a high pressure cylinder output valve being gunked up with dieseled oil carbon.

Typically, you would place the high pressure output valve VERY close to top of the high pressure cylinder. Two of the smaller tubes (excluding the four bolt tubes, air intake tube, interstage tube, and high pressure cylinder) are used to transfer high pressure air down from the high pressure head to the bleed valve then back up to the top for final output. That would place the valve a long ways from the cylinder top. Doable, but a LOT less efficient.

Check first under the central bolt at the top of the head assembly. That would be closest to the high pressure head outlet.

If it isn’t there, undo the high pressure outlet fitting. You will probably find a spring loaded valve hidden by that fitting. Clean its seat and top hat.
If there is a valve there, please post a pict of it. If there isn’t, I’ve guessed incorrectly where the high pressure cylinder output valve resides.

Find the high pressure output valve and check it. Also, let us know where it actually resides.

BTW, something odd about the way the forum loads the images. Sometimes, they will only appear if I refresh the page. Click on my picts for higher resolution.

The seller was trying to help in the begining but I got fed up waiting a month for repair parts to a compressor that was suposed to be new. I have less than 15 minuites on this compressor, I left honest feedback and thats when the crap hit the fan with this guy he dropped me like a bad habit. I wasn’t about to let others think everything was just wonderfull with these units when my experiance has been nothing short of a nightmare Then I find out that the feedback will never show up because the seller has to leave feedback too and he won’t because it’s not going to make him look good. The pictures with the text of what is what is a huge help. Don’t all the o-rings do is keep water where its suposed to be? I will go back to trying to get this working again as soon as I’m in a better frame of mind . Right now I’d like to drop kick this s.o.b right back to china but if I try’ed I’d only end up with a broken toe or two. I may even have to ask the seller how much I’d have to pay for a new head but I really would hate for it to get to that point. Thanks again for the effort you put into all the pictures and all I’m very gratefull.
Jimiray

I find it hard to believe the seller is being of little help, he has always responded instantly to me and a couple of other guys I know who bought this compressor.. I think that maybe he can see his attempts at helping you fix it for yourself are futile.
These compressors really are very simple. I think if you look very closely at all the parts you will find an O ring that is leaking or a valve not seating.
Another thing to check is the blow of valve.. make sure it is sealing when screwed up tight.

High pressure output valve probably at one of the two below locations.

I think it is most likely under the central bolt in this image.

Less likely (due to air inefficiency) is at the high pressure outlet fitting.

Your mission, should you accept it, is to repair your own compressor.
This message will self destruct in 15 seconds.

Viewing 15 replies - 91 through 105 (of 257 total)

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