New $210 Tuxing 4500psi compact compressor

After much deliberation I have bought a compressor to fill my PCPs and pony bottles.
I was torn between spending decent money on a Bauer JNR or just take a risk on a cheep Chinese job.
The new Altaros booster looked great but it still relies on a regular work shop compressor to operate which would mean I would have to spend more money upgrading my current workshop cheapo or it would soon let me down.

So after searching many cheap Chinese compressors I found this one that is very well priced and fairly new to the market.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PCP-Inflator-Electrical-Air-Compressor-for-airgun-cylinder-High-Pressure-300Bar-4500psi-Paintball-Refilling-110V-220V/32757013722.html

Size L 35cm x W 18cm x H 34cm
Net Weight 17KG
Power 220V-240V 50HZ or 100-130V 60HZ
Motor Power 1.8 KW Pressure :300bar/4500psi
Inflating speed 2800r/min
Noise78DB

Fill an empty 500cc bottle to 300bar in about 5 minutes and direct airgun cylinders topped up from 120bar to 300bar in 2 mins

It boasts a new design water jacket for better cooling than the open tube tube compressors and seems to have some really great reviews so far.
Buyer reviews here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4500PSI-compressor-300bar-Electric-portable-pump/32691757608.html?spm=2114.13010208.99999999.264.AAz6YJ

I had no real need to fill 12ltr dive bottles with a compressor (which Im sure this one will do) so a lightweight will suit my needs.
It will be mainly used to direct fill my PCPs, top up my 500cc backpack bottle from 180 to 300bar and top up my 3ltr pony bottle from 180bar to 240bar.
Between them all I have more than enough air for an outing.
I had some reserves about build quality but it is a very simple unit and I had the seller pack in enough piston seals, O rings and plastic seats to rebuild the thing ten times over for a very reasonable $7 extra.
The Seller was extremely helpful and seems to know his product with full back up service parts available.
Fuxing my Tuxing looks to be very simple and it lends itself to loads of upgrades such as a larger oil/air separator.
I just received a litre of high quality Special Bauer full synthetic breathing air compressor oil which cost me a crazy $70 but there is enough for 4 services. (1000 hour intervals)

The unit arrived in New Zealand from China via TNT in a very speedy 4 days! Currently being held in customs but I hope to see it any day now.
Ill add to my review as I spend some time using it.

My expectations are realistic with any Chinese purchase but the price seemed right on this one.. It is really not much more than a motorised 2 stage hand pump and keeping that in mind the price is very reasonable.
I will be using it for very short intervals not hours on end like the shoe box compressor etc require so wear and tear should be a lot less.

guykuo

Participant

February 5, 2017 at 7:01 pm

Jimiray, don’t give up yet. Troubleshooting a two stage compressor is done by fixing only two things.

1. Leaks – Cylinders, air routing, and piston rings must all be intact.

2. Valves – There are two valves for each cylinder. One input. One output.

I think your not understanding the layout of the compressor is leaving you doing shotgun, replace everything, random repair attempts. Work it through systematically. Check all four valves….

a. Low pressure inlet valve – the metal reed valve is probably OK

b. Low pressure outlet valve – larger plastic topped valve inside the interstage chamber. That’s the one in the threaded housing. Is it intact? backwards?
It has to be oriented to let air from the low cylinder into the interstage chamber.

c. High pressure inlet valve – the smaller one at the top of the high pressure cylinder. Is it intact? Oriented to let air INTO the high cylinder and prevent air going back towards interstage?

d. High pressure outlet valve – I think this is probably a check valve accessed by unscrewing the high pressure outlet fitting. Can’t be sure without the actual compressor in front of me

Then verify the seals. Are the high pressure cylinder rings intact? Are the seals for each of the metal tubes ok?

I have tried to identify the parts in the compressor as best as possible without every seeing an actual unit. There could be errors in the below, but it should help you understand how the compressor works.

jimiray

February 5, 2017 at 3:58 pm

I would like to make an offer to pay someone to fix this, I will ship either just the head or the whole thing if needed with the new rebuild kit. It would be better if its someone that already has a working unit that they could compare it to. Also after rebuilding the head they could swap it with their’s to comfirm it works.I have taken it apart 4-5 times and replaced both springs and seats (one white plastic one and the other was metal) Also replaced the tube o-rings that are related to the secondary air flow. I’m stumped the seller won’t help and right now I just have a expensive party ballon compressor. I’d rather pay some more money and have a compressor I can use rather than take a complete loss. Any takers? or advise?
Jimiray

cricket

February 4, 2017 at 3:02 pm

You can use postimage.org if you want. When uploading several pics just copy paste the links. When uploading one pic you can use the hotlink for forum one

February 4, 2017 at 1:46 pm

P/S I don’t know how to post pictures.

February 4, 2017 at 1:45 pm

I thought the 4 piston rings were corrisponding to 4 stages of compression, as you can see I know very little about this . When I first got this unit I asked about the oil and was told motor oil is fine. So since it was all that was avalable locally I used Wal mart full synthetic. It was having a hard time pumping my Benjimen discovery to 2000psi.It took 3-4 min to go from 1800 to 2000. Thats when I thought I had a bad compressor because that was it’s first time use. I read here and other forums about the Bauer synthetic but didn’t want to spend that much and wasn’t conviced that I had to on A 200 dollar compessor. So I went to Tractor supply co. and they had semi synthetic compressor oil So I have been using that till now. I will have to bite the bullet and get the Coltri oil as it sounds like the initial use of the detergent type motor oil is likley what caused the black pepper/carbon. And now I will need to take your advise and lay out this unit bit by bit on a lint free white cloth and clean the crap out of it. By the way the brake cleaner is non flamable but I’ll use the warm soapy water anyway. What doe’s the “valve” look like? Like an internal combustion small engine valve with a round face and seat? Thanks for all the expert input I feel much better now that I have some support and will most likely get this to work as intended.
Jimiray

mjp

February 4, 2017 at 1:03 pm

Any ISO VG 195 oil will do, coltri oil is cheaper but if you can’t find it then Bauer or other name brand.
Marko

spiker1968

February 4, 2017 at 9:43 am

Hi Jimiray! the black pepper like deposit you mentioned is carbon and indicates that you are getting Dieseling going on, as the oil combusts it leaves carbon which could be causing a valve to stick open. Are you using dedicated dive compressor oil or just motor oil ? Some Chinese sellers say motor oil is fine when its not. Look for Bauer dive compressor oil, its not cheap but 1 litre will do 4 or 5 oil changes.

February 4, 2017 at 6:59 am

Take it apart again, take time and layout all the parts on a clean lint free cloth and clean and inspect them one by one for signs of wear. And if in doubt post a pictures and folks here can assist you evaluating what’s what.
The piston rings are some sort of teflon composite. But I think it’s the second stage valve that’s leaking. Take the head apart and inspect the valve for wear or dirt, most likely it’s dirty.
Then inspect the valve spring that it’s not collapsed or broken. Either way replace with similar spring, it’s not too critical about the spring tension but there must be some preload for it to start working.
Lubricate o-rings and piston rings with divers silicone, no need to use but a thin film.
Reassemble and test.
Hope this helps.
Oh yeah, don’t use brakekcleaner on hpa compressor parts, if any is left behind after assembly it could ignite.
Just good old dish soap and warm water is fine. That won’t damage any plastic bits.

Marko

February 4, 2017 at 3:00 am

I don’t see any air bubbles in the water, when I replaced the piston rings I noticed that they are just made out of plastic or something like plastic. I opened the end gaps just enough to slip them into the grooves. I also noted that there was a fair amount of black pepper looking stuff on the shaft.Could it be that some of the black pepper matter has migrated to a small orifice and is clogging up a critical passage? I saw a video of a chinese guy takeng the head off on of these and he separated the cylinder head and took a socket and unscrewed a bolt that had a spring and white plastic seat and he pulled the spring out a little. I don’t speak chinese so I don’t know what he was saying. Perhaps I should take the head back off and spray all the passage ways out real good with brake cleaner and follow up with some compressed air to dry it out real good before I try it again. Should I be soaking the rings in oil before I install them? Do they damage easily? Thanks for all the help I was starting to think I just blew 355 bucks for nothing. Anyone willing to guide me through this is greatly appeciated.

February 3, 2017 at 10:41 pm

quote jimiray:

Help! I have this compressor and it won’t pump up past 25psi. It hasen’t worked more than 10 minuites since I bought it. I told the seller and he won’t even return an email. He sent me a rebuild kit of o-rings at my expense so I pulled the head off it and tryed replacing the 4 rings on the piston shaft. And it still wont go past 25psi. I sprayed all the fittings with soapy water, there are no extenal leaks so its got to be an internal leak. Any body have any suggestions? Right now all I have is a $355 paper weight.

Are you getting air coming through the water cooling pipe? if so you have a blown O-ring. If not then it sounds like a stuck valve and the air is just pumping backwards and forwards and not building pressure. Either way you will have to pop the head apart, I did this and replaced all the O-rings with quality viton ones while I was at it. Sounds like what you changed were the 2nd stage piston rings and not the O-rings!

February 3, 2017 at 5:07 pm

EDIT: Really shouldn’t type so fast…

Sounds like the 2nd stage is NOT compressing. If you already checked the o-rings, also check the inlet and outlet valves for that stage.

hoot

February 3, 2017 at 4:52 pm

:hoot:

Pictures pictures pictures….all the way around, top and bottom so we know what we are dealing with.

Don’t panic, just show us what you did and what we are working on..

February 3, 2017 at 3:25 pm

zhoy19

January 31, 2017 at 10:54 pm

quote Hoot:

quote zhoy19:

quote Gqjeff:

Ya I would need the 110v anyways and the others r listed as 220v.

I was struggling with that too. If you wanted the better one a voltage step up from 110-220 can be had for ~$50 on amazon.

On Amazon, how would I identify this voltage step-up from 110 to 220? Is there a specific name for this device?

Thanks!

Hoot:

Well Mr. Hooter I’ll provide this for you

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