New LDC line up including Fat Boy
Ok guys, I’ve been MIA for a long long time working on my new designs and waiting for the new lathe that Dman recommended. The machine finally arrived last Friday and it has been really fun. I still can’t make shrouds yet, the machine didn’t come with all the parts that I need. So for guys who are waiting for shrouds, Hopefully I can get the tools soon and get them out to you quick. Promise I’ll make it up to you.
I have 4 new LDCs but I am super excited about the Fat Boy. This is my 4.25 inch x 2 inch OD. With this thing on, my .25 Edgun Matador sounds like the Mutant. I will even go above and beyond and say I think it is even quieter than the Mutant but I’ll let you guys decide 🙂
I have no secrets to keep with my LDC design because with these models, you can unscrew the end caps and see for yourself. I recently purchased a $5k laser cutter to help me take my hobby to the next level. I laser cut 1/4 felt sheets into spacers around the baffles and washers. I pack it in really well and it cushions all the blast.
Yesterday I sent out all the pre-orders and after stopping by the post office, I went home and played with the idea of using 1/4 thick felt as spacers. Drew my design in CAD and let the laser cutter do its thing. Amazing how accurate it cuts. Fits the tube like a glove. Anyways I was blown away by how effective it is. Long story short, I will be sending out an upgrade package to the LDCs that I sent out.
I have a limited number of the Fat boys so if you want one, they are $155 shipped within the US. Someone suggested I make a soup label and include it since it looks like a soup can lol.
All LDCs are $155 shipped
Sizes available are:
6 3/8 x 1.5 Glossy CF
7 5/8 x 1.5 Glossy CF
4.25 x 2 Glossy CF
4.25 x 2 Matte CF
Thank you to all the pre-orders
Hey guys I just want to mention, when you screw on the LDC hold onto the rear end cap to screw it onto the shroud. If you hold onto the tube you will torque it too much and it will be a pain in the butt if you want to unscrew the rear cap from the tube. You do not need to torque it too much either. Same thing with the shroud, hang onto the OEM shroud when you screw on the LDC. If you are holding onto the gun and torquing the LDC, the shroud will screw tighter onto the barrel. Hope that makes sense. Let me know if you have any questions.
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IDK, no primer used ….. cheaply speed enamel …. not waiting long enough for the paint to dry …. opening it up x-times to reconfigure the inners.
But yah, I’ll repaint it later with that “SEM Self Etching Primmer” if I can find it … 6:20 AM … I’m leaving to go pesting gents. :fishinghole:
~ Greg
Because the end caps are made of aluminum. It is easy to spray paint them any color you want and make them last a long time. It also allows you to be adventurous with the colors. Personally I like dark blue, gold and red. If it gets scratched, you can always sand it down and repaint. Whereas if it were anodized and you happen to scratch it, you’re pretty much screwed.
Checkout this video:
If I have time this weekend, I am going to try a few colors. The finish looks awesome in the video.
Greg, how come you didn’t spray paint the knurling part? It still looks weird with 2 exposed metal rings. It would look much better the way Cricket did his.
Was thinking the Impact. I live in Sweden so parts availability is superb. The Swedish retailer has lifetime service available, just send it in and get it fixed. It also does not have the hammer right next to my ear wich is a big plus. Also I asked Ernest Rowe himself and he gave me this answer:
“Yes highly recommend, I found the ST accurate as other barrels.
Ernest Rowe”
And not to stray too off topic, the fat boy would look good on it 😉
A wise determination on your part Cricket !
I have a FX Revo 22 / ST that’s a tack driver but I never tested it good at + 100 yards yet, I don’t usually like to pest/hunt beyond that.
I usually take it out to the farms to eradicated pest that we’ve neglected in doing or skipping a week or two of pesting.
It’s designed to do one thing and with efficiency to boot, that’s kill ……. ….. .. repeatedly !
Being a true semi-auto I need to remember its trigger …………
It requires a different trigger pulling techniques from my norm where the follow through can’t be applied safely.
The small recoil there after will cause the gun to move just enough to cycle the action repeatedly/rapidly making it a full auto if I’m not careful. :rofl:
A fun gun to shoot …. with the Fat One attached …….. a real blast !! :4:
~ Greg
Was thinking the Impact. I live in Sweden so parts availability is superb. The Swedish retailer has lifetime service available, just send it in and get it fixed. It also does not have the hammer right next to my ear wich is a big plus. Also I asked Ernest Rowe himself and he gave me this answer:
“Yes highly recommend, I found the ST accurate as other barrels.
Ernest Rowe”
And not to stray too off topic, the fat boy would look good on it 😉
I agree 100% if you need an adapter I sent my shroud to Dman, Very fast turn around, Yes I can pull the end cap off and I can install the adapter.
BUT I want to make sure the adapter is centered 100% so no clippings , That’s why I like to send my shroud in to get it centered exact, , Its a small hole the pellet comes out of if its off a Hair its going to clip.
:2cents:
Mike
shits ……. … . . so which one are u thinking of getting ?
… don’t want to ask that FatDude again if I where u. :rofl:
I like the Vulcan better though, to many things on the Impact that can go south/wrong if u ask me.
~ Greg
I’m not planning on attaching it to my Cricket, don’t have a adapter.
The spray painted end caps completes the look.
I tried and failed to remove the OEM Cricket end cap so I just sent it out to Dman. He basically put it in a vise and heated it up and tugged it out. I didn’t have a table vise and I guess I didn’t tug hard enough. If you heat it up too much it does start to discolor the OEM shroud but a lot of heat is needed to break apart the epoxy they use. Once you reinstall the threaded adapter just use a little loctite. It has a lower breaking point than epoxy if you ever need to remove it again.
Greg, clamp the shroud to vise of some sort that will not scratch the finish. Use a mini torch and point it directly to the front cap. Keep it on there until you start seeing the epoxy bubble on the side, use a hook like tool to grab the cap from the inside and pull out. Should come off pretty easy once you see the bubbles. After that clean up the leftover epoxy. You can get the adapter from Dman or John. I usually have people ship their OEM shroud to either of them so that they can install it.
The adapter is just a piece of aluminum that is machined to the ID of the shroud. epoxy and slide in.
Cool, that what I used ……..
Hey Cricket, I’d like to know how are you going to attach that to your Cricket ?
Did u order a adapter ?
If so, show us a how to install LDC adapter to a Cricket shroud.
Only heard or seen a couple post on this subject that it’s best to heat the front cap only, to remove it without burning the can.
~ Greg
Cool, that what I used ……..
Hey Cricket, I’d like to know how are you going to attach that beauty to your Cricket ?
Did u order a adapter ?
If so, show us a how to install LDC adapter to a Cricket shroud.
Only heard or seen a couple post on this subject that it’s best to heat the front cap only, to remove it without burning the can.
~ Greg
Unfortunately not anodized, but looks great! It is spray Paint.
Wow that looks amazing. Spray paint or anodized?
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Cool Greg! Remember seeing Ted’s videos on that gun with awe, semi-auto!!