NEW Vulcan videos!
Have more on the works
1.Vulcan fill valve gauge reassembly: https://youtu.be/4U3H1ICGKU4
2.Vulcan regulator—setting it without a pressure tester: https://youtu.be/5LLSVFbmHcs
3.Vulcan regulator how to set the output pressure: https://youtu.be/2TO6XkmRQOA
4.Vulcan regulator disassemble: https://youtu.be/-h1iQBzqFQo
5.Vulcan barrel removal: https://youtu.be/InguLiXv3jo
6.Vulcan regulator internals removal: https://youtu.be/X3MtER7sJNs
7.Vulcan air tube removal: https://youtu.be/qZnGic3BSkg
8.Vulcan .22 Hammer and spring removal delrine guide installation: https://youtu.be/gcV4E4Aq84M
9. Bleed screw oring mod: http://youtu.be/dAvWdbv9Fo0
10. air tube reassembly: https://youtu.be/rVcDmpeL9VE
11. barrel and air tube clamp reassembly: https://youtu.be/yPC38L3qn0s
12. trigger adjustment: https://youtu.be/BCryo_b1Tx8
13. cocking bolt tightening procedure: https://youtu.be/zlyqgCUxQcE
All Replies
When I mess up, I disclose it so other won’t repeat my mistake.
It would be easier and less embarrassing to simply hide mishaps, but that doesn’t benefit others.
When I point out what I think is a safety issue, I do so to protect others, not me.
There is no attack on Ernest. He does great work and shares valuable information for which I am grateful.
He knows what he does well, and it is reasonable to watch out for the safety of others.
I think we hold Ernest in enough esteem to give feedback without it being considered an insult.
This isn’t AGN. Right?
Presumably here, I should speak up if I perceive an issue. I hope everyone would.
Now back the regularly scheduled program.
I believe Ernest uses Molly 55. I use a dry silicone spray.
I think I’ve seen a white looking grease in the videos. Is this something like Super Lube that is silicone with Teflon added? I have 100% silicone but it is clear and colorless. Also what is the recommended dry lube for the hammer, bolt etc? I need to order some dry lube and some of that white grease.
Yes, just remove the o ring on the bolt handle and insert a allen and unscrew. Remove side plates, rotate bolt to the right and screw the knob back in. Takes 3 or 4 minutes. Be sure to insert your allen and give it a good tap or two to break free the screw. Many people have stripped them.
Nice set of vids Ernest. Thanks for sharing. I have certainly learned a lot about PCP air guns in general watching your vids. Keep it up.
Quick question;
Can the Vulcan bolt be switched over to the right side for lefties?
Thanks
DT
I don’t mean to be critical, but the degree of access you are giving to the gun internals can also encourage some to do more than they should.
Your videos are very efficient in getting the info displayed, but on the trigger adjust, I thought a bit more warning and caution is warranted.
That is the main message I was trying to convey.
Just because you see Ernest do it, doesn’t mean you should feel safe doing it.
Not all the safety knowledge is conveyed in the video. A Noobie like me can get himself in trouble.
If you felt there wasnt enough safety conveyed in the video you should have left your Vulcan alone. You had a problem removing your air tube, before damaging it you should have posted you were having trouble or PM’ed Ernest.
Ernest spends untold hours modifying and improving high end airguns then takes the time to pass on his knowledge to the airgun community free of charge. I have seen the BullPub Tuner help countless air-gunners out with nothing to gain other than helping someone out. At the very least if you felt something Ernest posted was unsafe you should’ve contacted him directly. JMO
Attention…………………………….. Don’t try this at home.
Cool beans, Ernest.
I don’t mean to be critical, but the degree of access you are giving to the gun internals can also encourage some to do more than they should.
Your videos are very efficient in getting the info displayed, but on the trigger adjust, I thought a bit more warning and caution is warranted.
That is the main message I was trying to convey.
Just because you see Ernest do it, doesn’t mean you should feel safe doing it.
Not all the safety knowledge is conveyed in the video. A Noobie like me can get himself in trouble.
Any lighter and a another tap after a balk fire would discharge my gun. I don’t like that. Others may.
Whether setting up for target shooting, hunting, sensitivity, or safety margin,the Vulcan is wonderfully
adjustable to reach each user’s level of sensitivity and safety margin.
Nice to have it so easily custom fit to each user’s needs.
WOW GUY, really like that feedback more constructive then the 1st.
safety comes 1st, when I tuned a trigger for a vary light trigger as per customer request–I set it the lowest I can till it pass the 1″ drop on the but pad and a hard smack on the right and left of action. if light taping on the trigger blade set off the gun its unsafe. I know a lot of guys have pellets hole on there dry wall near the window—must be the light trigger!
Happy NY
Goals differ in how we each set the trigger. I have mine set to allow tapping against 2nd stage wall to not move the sear.
Any lighter and a another tap after a balk fire would discharge my gun. I don’t like that. Others may.
Whether setting up for target shooting, hunting, sensitivity, or safety margin,the Vulcan is wonderfully
adjustable to reach each user’s level of sensitivity and safety margin.
Nice to have it so easily custom fit to each user’s needs.
I do, however, wonder if everyone should set the trigger quite as close to the edges of firing as mentioned at the end of the trigger video.
I would adjust for about 1 mm of sear overlap rather than “just able to cock.” Maybe I’m just too cautious.
Hint: it is convenient when adjusting the trigger to simply pull the hammer spring out.
Then you can cock the trigger via the side pin that the cocking lever usually engages.
This lets you experiment freely with the trigger settings without any air discharge.
Removing the hammer spring will loose the actual tension on top of the top shear holding the hammer and spring when cock —-> trigger will feel different with and without the hammer spring—hammer spring is critical in the setting the brake. I love discharging the air–giving me a real feeling in the action—-with my eye close.
when I don’t want to discharge air—-like in the house quiet time— not in the lock position I hold the cocking bolt with slight tension then I close my eye then pull trigger.
Your hint my work for you—but its inaccurate and inconvenient in my part.
Also, when you have overlap — the 2nd stage will have a drag till it actually fire–that will make the 2nd stage break unpredictable, in the real world 1mm over lap is unacceptable in match competition or getting the best accuracy.
Great videos.
I do, however, wonder if everyone should set the trigger quite as close to the edges of firing as mentioned at the end of the trigger video.
I would adjust for about 1 mm of sear overlap rather than “just able to cock.” Maybe I’m just too cautious.
Hint: it is convenient when adjusting the trigger to simply pull the hammer spring out.
Then you can cock the trigger via the side pin that the cocking lever usually engages.
This lets you experiment freely with the trigger settings without any air discharge.
As above, more great vids which are really helpful
Another great Video Ernest…..
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Awesome. Definitely on my short list now. Thanks for the info.
DT