Rear tank gauge
Hi All,
First time here…
Reading some posts over the last couple of days, learning and having fun simultaneously, I decided to tell also my experiences.
I think that for a PCP tank, a gauge is a must.
Although I have used the gauge mounted in the neck of the bottle, it does not pleasing me π for two main reasons:
1ΒΊ The gauge in the bottle neck is very small, and difficult to read (and the useful zone of reading even more) and I believe that it is not accurate enough.
2ΒΊ I dont like the the asymmetric protuberance of the gauge in the bottle neck turning around while I screw the tank on. I see it fragile and dangerous if it receives a blow.
Then I decided to mount a real good gauge in the only position that is possible: the bottom of the bottle.
To do it, is indispensable to do drill a hole in the thank ( this is forbiden in some countries), but as a experiment I decided to take the risk, but with the due precautions of safety .Please note that I donΒ΄t say to anybody to do that.
The first thing of all, to locate a suitable gauge. In my case I had to order it do, since I did not find what was searching in the shops of pneumatic and hydraulics.
In two weeks they made a gauge of 40 mm of outside diameter and 250 Bar on a large scale, with a rear thread of 1/8 G and 11mm length:
After, measure and verify the thickness of the bottle bottom wall,mesuring the outside and after the inside, I found that the wall thickness is 7 mm. More than enough for my purposes.
Afterwards, centre the tank on the lathe as best as possible and drill and thread the wall of the bottle….Yes, as natural as it sound , a hole in the bottom. π
For cutting the thread I help my self with a little drop of cutting fluid.
Nevertheless I do not want to allow that the whole pressure of the tank should push on the threads of the gauge and I decided to install a nut from the interior to hold safely the gauge. It has also an O ring to avoid leaks: π
I had to do also the special key for this nut:
To install the nut inside the tank with the special key, was tricky and difficult due to the narrow space, and especially because you work blindly!! π π π
Once installed the gauge and its nut, I protected the whole assemble with a cover of aluminium specially designed to embrace the tank and to protect the gauge of possible shock and blows.

In addition it gives more resistance to the whole set. And it gives me the confidence of not having the gauge sticked into my shoulder.
Before installing it, I tried that the gauge fits very nicely inside its new housing:
Once quite mounted, the test-proof of pressure was satisfactory, I sprayed the tank rear with soapy water,charged the bottle very slowly, no bubbles at all, and for 20 days I left the tank loaded on 200 bar without losing only one bar of pressure. π π π
Already I have neither to count pellets nor do calculations simply I begin to shooting in 185 bar and finish on 100 bar. With good consistency of speed. I also have a good control of the presure while charging from the scuba. 8)
At the same time as I began this project, also I did an anatomical butt adjustable in length and height to do more ergonomic the set. Also it protect the glass gauge when not in use.
The screws that hold the support of the butt to the bottle are nylon pointed, to not damage or to create points of pressure on the surface of the tank
And this way there stays the whole set mounted and ready to shoot.:
Postscript
I do not recommend to anybody to do the same thing that I have done, since this is potentially dangerous specially if you dont have the proper tools….And knowledge
Each one calculates his own risk and do in consequence
Hope you like it
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I think you should make another and have it destructively tested. This would end the controversy and possible bring gauges to AF tanks everywhere…
I i’d bet it isn’t that much worse off than the original without the hole… Say about 500psi under the fail rating of the typical tank…
Are the AF tanks cast or spun??? And of what type of aluminum… 6061…???
Since it is aluminum it will probably fail as a leak and not by explosion, which would be cool but very Jerry Bruckheimer and about as realistic as me saying I have four girls blowing me right now while I type this… π
At this point i’m willing to believe the facts and not a straight up “impossible” and “stupid” conjectural statement that isn’t backed up with anything but intuition (which is as good as spit in material science and engineering, yes I went to engineering school)…
I have seen worse work perfect for long periods of time without incident… I’ll bet half the engineers designing the shuttle’s engines said it was stupid and impossible and yet it exists and works better than most things on the shuttle…
Its working and doesn’t look or even seem like it is going to explode or shoot the gauge off the end…
Nice work and thanks for risking your life and limbs to test this seemingly impossible idea out and get it to actually work as well!!! π― I still think you should make one and have it destroyed to get some real world numbers, you never know, Voltar might start adding them to his tanks!!! π