successful condor valve mod !!!DONE!!!even more fps
So far with the few tests that I’ve had a chance to do I think this mod will help those who have the first Gen valve and are tired of the inherent design flaws…what use to take a pw setting of 13,6 now only takes 9,2. 928 fps with the predators …this is using the soft crony and balistic gel and only a few test shots..I flattened out the ends of the valve return spring, and after lots of pumping and shooting then emptying modding and pumping some more I found that if you flatten the face of the delrin seal the valve is much easier to open under full fill pressure plus I did an o-ring mod to it just to quiet things down a bit.. ..I will post some diagrams of the mods in a few days…I can’t take credit for the individual mods but I’m just trying to help out those who have the crappy valves and not the money to replace them…
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Like you said, the consistancy is awesome but the velocity is a little low. If you can do the same on high power, that will be awesome, I will send you my valve for mods 😆 😆 😆
ok so i let a few of the guys at work put some round thru my bird and over a cronny…I know the numbers are way low for this valve but the consistancy is there…the power is low due to my error in making the new seal surface too far from the end of the valve stem resulting in a .07 tophat setting the max that i can do…when i get my lathe in and set up ill face it down and give it another go…
866 865
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not too bad since this string was done by 4 diff shooters…. :5
know what thats like as a homegoing dad with a friggin 6 month old…family time all the time….
Sorry no numbers yet ….its family time this weekend. So hopefully sometime this week
sounds good….any numbers ?
Well I think I need to stub up the length from the bottom of the stem to the valve face and I think it will be bought perfect….while I have it out I will take some dimensions and get them posted since this works and I want to share it with all for free…no to get my new scuba tank setup…..120 for 2 80cf tanks that are pristine 😈
sounds good, cant wait to hear the results…i think you will be amazed…it makes for so much more consistent opening of the valve, you might find that you have to lower your powersetting as well, cause its easier to knock open now
So I filled to 2k and dry fired it a few times till the sound became consistent shot to shot then started slinging some lead ….I can’t wait to get this thing back up to 3k….oh and I did slot the ports out a little and shortened and rounded the end of the spring guide….now for the long haul test….
yeah pumping up from empty really really sucks….been there done that now have a 3500 psi and 4350 psi tank for that stuff….which i actually have to get filled one of these days….used it to inflate the ring around the pool LOL yes i will do alot for not having to pump
The stem actually sits a little deeper than in the pic but like I said its got a little bit of a press and I will shorten the stem amd round it before I get to fillin…one of these days I really need an air tank..
looks perfect !
pump it to 2000 psi….if it leaks when you open the dump valve…then quickly get it in the rifle…and dryfire it a coupld of time…this will help mash the edge for a perfect seal…in my bigbore projects it happened that i need to fire the valve a few times before it would properly seal….but after that it should be fine
now for power…you might wanna elongate the portholes dont to the edge of the delrin (remove delrin before filing) just make the holes oblong…
allways start with the tophat close to the tank…you can later move it out for power….just sucks with a pump if the valve dip too deep on the first or second shot after you just put 500 pumps into it
the lenght of the spring guide might need to be shortened, and you should round the end ….air comes through the retaining nut and meets a square face….better it be round or pointed to guide the air through the spring
ok so a few things to update you guys on….
1:im not too shure it was the angle that caused the failure (at least not on its own)
2: i think that the tail section that fits inside the return spring was made too short to help keep things fully aligned after the taper fit was eliminated at the seal surface (my fault again)
so what i think happened was after 50 or so shots (wasnt counting just puttin holes thru the plywood in the garage 😈 ) when the stem jumped out of the valve and it leaked down….. after putting the tank aside and changing my shorts of course…..i dissambled it and noticed that the edge didn’t look too bad execpt where it tried to get pushed thru the brass guid side ways by the 400-500lbs of pressure pushing directly on it….(yes its 305lbs on the back of that .36 dia valve at 3k fill so side ways more surface area to act on)
so here is valve seal #2 i didn’t want to make a new one but the orig. was toast..I took a bit of designe from the stock talon valve and put a long tail on it so it would stay straight inside the spring and the valve and incorperated a 10 deg angle per cyg (walt didn’t chime in till it was done… oh well) with a slightly tighter press fit than the factory and this one is made from nylatron harder than delrin…
well I guess….HI ho..Hi ho a pumping I will go… 👿
Right on Cyg.
I use the 10 or so degree facing cut leaving a flat of about 0.025″ wide.
A couple degrees as you say may indeed be better. Will try that next time I make a head.
Cheers,
Walter….
+1 on voltars post…less than 10 degrees…acutually just 2-3 degrees might do it, depending on material…i should have mentioned it before you got started
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like i said from the get go im trying to do this so that ANYONE can make these junk valves work i only had to make a new plastic seal cause I screwed up the stock one (although it was bad ass for a little bit..).
😈