successful condor valve mod !!!DONE!!!even more fps
So far with the few tests that I’ve had a chance to do I think this mod will help those who have the first Gen valve and are tired of the inherent design flaws…what use to take a pw setting of 13,6 now only takes 9,2. 928 fps with the predators …this is using the soft crony and balistic gel and only a few test shots..I flattened out the ends of the valve return spring, and after lots of pumping and shooting then emptying modding and pumping some more I found that if you flatten the face of the delrin seal the valve is much easier to open under full fill pressure plus I did an o-ring mod to it just to quiet things down a bit.. ..I will post some diagrams of the mods in a few days…I can’t take credit for the individual mods but I’m just trying to help out those who have the crappy valves and not the money to replace them…
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Sorry if this is a dump question but I do that from time to time.
Was the original angle steep to allow the seal to center itself in a recess of the brass? If so or not, I was thinking that a convex radius would allow self centering if the brass has a concave radius. Just what saw in my dreams.
Good Luck,
so i just noticed….i was setting up the soft cronny to get some numbers tonight and the seal failed……since it was drained i pulled it appart and your rite the angle was too much and an edge failed…oh well ill make a new one tomorrow at work…trial and error i guess……it is said that you learn more from failing than nothing but success
Are the angles different on each diagram, before the mod?
A 10 degree cut is more than adequate. Too steep = too brittle no support.
ok first is a cut-away pic of the factory valve seal
then this is what i did to it..
i didn’t dimension the lengths or diam. cause i figured that the diam. are done at AF and the lengths dont matter since the top hat can make up for the varriance in length….but for the record i took .05 off the length of the seal face to make it flat then hit it with a 100 deg countersink tool but i dont think the angle is of too much importance but I dont know for shure..the only other thing i did was to make shure that the bottom of the hole in the brass valve guide where the delrin seal sits had a nice crisp edge so it could not wedge in…let me know if you guys need more info…ill try and get some real world numbers this weekend if i can get some time.. 😀
this is a picture of a standard talon valve pulled completly appart…..
if we use this as and example the only real modifications i did were to the black plastic piece at the bottom of the valve stem (the delrin seal) and the brass piece on the right side of the picture….
this is the removal tool i made to unscrew the brass valve guide (the piece on the right)
i will have drawings up in a day or two hopefully
ill have to setup the laptop in the garage since the weather wont clear up anytime soon but things seam to be working great…. 😀 I used only parts that came with this 1st gen valve (minus the new stem that Tony donated to my cause and the o-ring mod )..since im still using my hand pump for all my hpa needs i dont plan on taking the valve outta the tank again anytime soon, 3 fills from empty to 3k in 3 days is more than enough for me for a while…so as soon as i get autocad re-installed ill get some detailed and dimensioned drawings up for every to make use of…..
looking forward to hear how it worked out
I have a first generate Condor Valve and I beat it up really bad when I try to remove it off 1 of the CO2 adapter. I would be interesting to see how to improve it.
Well Cyg I’m defiantly a believer….I’ve been pumping the tank back up and taking test shots every 500psi starting at 1k and nothing special until I hit 2k and broke the sound barrier with 14.3 grn discovery garbage pellets….must keep pumping and see if she continues to impress me…if this works ill post some detailed drawings showing what I’ve done…. 😈
Can you explain how that valve works I have never had mine out and heard of several valve replacement mods where is the big collar at I would call it a locking collar or dodge collar with the hole in it and set screw? isin’t that how you take it off the tank large black collar, if you could while you have it apart take some picturesof the vavle dissasembled to my knowledge I have never seem a vavle completely apart would be a good sticky if not allready done before.
I turned the face of the seal off in the hope that it would solve the problems and it did for a while but the rounded edge just barely let’s the valve seal wedge in…so tomorrow at work its time to face the brass surface flat and true and a new seal with a “cupped” sealing edge…I will keep all of you posted
is your rifle band new ?…that looks like a valve thats been modded…or AF have changed the delrins face towards the brass….
however i see something of a cup shape, i dont like the round shoulders of the sealing surface but it could be ok,
but where the spring sits i would suggest reshaping the side of it…it doesnt have to hold the spring from sliding off…just guide it…so sanding or a quick tour in the lathe would fix that
k so keeping what you said cyg it looks and feels like its still sitting just inside the edge break of the brass piece…. so tomorrow ill make a new seal outta nylatron since its a little tougher and ill face the brass piece
and yes the end of the delrin piece looked like that when i first opened it up…Im starting to think that airforce needs some better quality controll
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good to know 🙂
I kinda like the learning from success thing quite a bit 🙂
Walter….