Toilet paper test
Does this mean I have a leak where the gold washer (breech/valve) is?
http://s1105.photobucket.com/user/donnydu/media/Matador/Tissue.mp4.html
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Man that suck donny… a mans just trying to get rid of a little pinging and opens up a can of worms. hope this is the end of the road :fishing:
I used to solder 1000’s of microchips for computer fans while in high school. The company paid 25 cents for each unit that worked correctly. Each chip must have at least 30 resistors and stuff on them so each chip took a long time to build. After submitting them about 80% came back to me with errors 😯
On another note, Ernest uses Duro 90 o-rings and uses plastic to shim. He hasn’t had any air leakage.
Donny, do you solder much? I’ve been thinking about what I could do as a spot gap until I get something that works and considered taking soft solder and putting a lite coat ofer the washer for not. Or just making a ring out of solder, but that might be to soft. If your seal is dead either was, might as well try it.. Mine won’t come out with damage cause its stuck pretty good so I’m not going there until I’ve got a replacement. Just a thought.
Thanks for the info Tedd! Gabe has an extra teflon o ring that he’s going to send me. Going to give it a try and will report back. He’s in cali so might take a week to get but I’ll search the local hardware stores to see if they have any.
http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=21235
We couldn’t get ANY rubber O ring to stay in the transfer port area.
I bought these from McMaster Carr, #9559K13. It is a PTFE (Teflon) O ring that is the same OD as the transfer port. They are very hard but still have some give to them so that they can be used over again.
You might be able to find them locally. Ask for a AS568A-008 PTFE (Teflon) O ring. It is a standard size O ring.
The PTFE O ring has an ID that is too small. I used a #9 drill bit to open up the ID. Just hold the O ring in your fingers and slowly twist the drill bit thru. Make sure to remove any burrs left in the O ring.
I used one of the PTFE O rings in my gun for the full shooting season without any leaks. I removed the breech a few times that season and reused the same PTFE O rings without having any leaks.
All of my Matadors have had a brass O ring in them as delivered from Ed except for the R3 25 long that the shipper took apart and substituted a rubber O ring for the brass one. I have resused the stock brass O ring many times on my 25 longs without having it leak.
Donny, I’m not sure why you are having sealing problems with your 25 cal R3 standard but, I am sure that the PTFE O ring will seal the transfer port and stay in place.
Lars, the brass O ring measures 8 mm OD (6mm ID) X 1.5 mm tall X 1 mm cross section.
Donny, read this:
http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=21235
We couldn’t get ANY rubber O ring to stay in the transfer port area.
I bought these from McMaster Carr, #9559K13. It is a PTFE (Teflon) O ring that is the same OD as the transfer port. They are very hard but still have some give to them so that they can be used over again.
You might be able to find them locally. Ask for a AS568A-008 PTFE (Teflon) O ring. It is a standard size O ring.
The PTFE O ring has an ID that is too small. I used a #9 drill bit to open up the ID. Just hold the O ring in your fingers and slowly twist the drill bit thru. Make sure to remove any burrs left in the O ring.
I used one of the PTFE O rings in my gun for the full shooting season without any leaks. I removed the breech a few times that season and reused the same PTFE O rings without having any leaks.
All of my Matadors have had a brass O ring in them as delivered from Ed except for the R3 25 long that the shipper took apart and substituted a rubber O ring for the brass one. I have resused the stock brass O ring many times on my 25 longs without having it leak.
Donny, I’m not sure why you are having sealing problems with your 25 cal R3 standard but, I am sure that the PTFE O ring will seal the transfer port and stay in place.
Lars, the brass O ring measures 8 mm OD (6mm ID) X 1.5 mm tall X 1 mm cross section.
Looks like the standard (bulk parts) size 8mm I’d washer has an od of 11mm
http://s1105.photobucket.com/user/donnydu/media/Matador/Tissue.mp4.html
I hate to beg the obvious…but, have you tried using a different piece of toilet paper?
Just saying….
Hoot:
so this copper washer is 8mm x 9.5mm x 1mm?
I can see 6x10x1 and 8x12x1 at grainger.com, but none in the above mentioned dimensions.
-lars
What happened to the brass ring you collected off the floor?
I dropped mine on the floor, cleaned it off and reinstalled.
If you torqued everything down as to close the gap and the original brass ring doesn’t work you may have done more damage than just crushing the washer…
I tried to post this easier but it didn’t stick. Also, maybe a 25cal mrod transfer port machined down. Might not be lage enough od. Can’t remember, its been a while since I had one in hand. But, yes somthing like that
My old post that didn’t post below:
I’d impregnate my shorts if someone can find a current application copper washer that will work. I e been lieing to myself but this on my gun for a while. I’ve got a puff of air hitting me when I fire and I’ve repalced the breach Oring 5 times. The first one was a “close as I could get” but the last few have been very close to eds oem size. The one in it right now is the 6×1.5 that someone here sells in his kits, so it should be close enough. The others were actually closer in size to what wingman stated the proper size is. At this point, I’m thinking it is the prawns few port but its blowing up towards the breach and acting like a bolt probe Oring.
Looks like Ed skipped the rim on the multi shot breech so there’s nothing to hold back the oring… Not the smartest move.
Ville, try to explain those white air fitting washers they should work a treat in these heavy breathers.
Not an easy fix but an elegant one would be a support inside the oring. Take an oring with the biggest OD that fitts and then put a bit of a pipe or have a ring made in the lathe with a width less than the brass ring but sufficient enough to hold back the oring and with an Id same as transfer port. Someone with the pieces at hand take the measurements and get to someone with a lathe and see if it’s possible and make up a few and send it to the masses
Dr.:evil:
I just did a toilet paper test before I did some shooting and there was no leaking. 😆 😆 😆
Actually I checked all three bullpups and the a single square of tissue doesn’t move at all once I had put the AS 008 orings on the probe of my 30 cal. They fit and work perfectly. 🙂
I think I would take the advice of using the Teflon rings drilled with the right bit until you can get a replacement.
That will create a noise issue.
But if no one has tried a Cu crush washer while the Brass washer won´t seal and a rubber o-ring gets blown out then, and this is only my humble opinion , it´s about time someone tries a crush washer made of Copper.
I´m certain it is no custom size but a standard size millimeter crusher. If not i´ll use a modicum of violence and force Dr. Evil make a few in the correct size. Good luck trying to get an OEM spare during the first half of the 2014 …
I´ll dive into the Washer Pin tomorrow.
Put silicone grease around the breach Oring area. D this after you have used the mag to insert a pellet, then remove the mag and reinsert the bolt. The put the grease around the area where the probe goes into the brass part of the breach. Take a shot. If the grease blows out form around the bolt probe, that’s your leak. If it doesn’t , the try grease on the gaps between the breach and the airtube. I though mine was leaking once, but I found it was the probe/barell oring(again).
If its the gold washer, this is exactly what I’ve been dreading and bitching about. The best option probably is a hollow copper crush ring. It look like a tinny gold doughnut and crushes very easily. Only problem is, Ed seams to love odd ball sizes for stuff like this. The measurements wingman gave me for the breach/probe Oring are something very odd and I haven’t been able to get the exact size anywhere. I’m currently using the 6×1.5 that someone else on here said was right. I bet this is why Crosman uses the quad seal and the little brass tube. I just hope your valve body didn’t get damaged. If its not straight and true, there is nothing short of a gasket/sealer type thingy will ever seal properly. Then you’d have this problem of having the clean/scrape the area every time you take it apart. There are also orings that are impregnated with blue sealer, but if its am odd ball size, your not going to get them. Oe if the Oring sites offers custom made quad seals , but you’d have to Oder a ton of them for a special run.
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The ping is gone but it also led to the root of the problem I’ve been having with the sound. I kinda like the trouble shooting and trying to find a solution to the problem.
I am a computer programmer so it ties in well. Not a lot of people like to trouble shoot coding errors but I enjoy them.