.308 Build
Ordered all the pieces from AF today so I can build my .308 Condor. Frame, trigger asembly, power wheel, fore arm grip. I have 28″ barrel and bigbore Blod valve. I will make everything else. Lathe is going to be here around 12:00 tomorrow. Can’t wait to start making things on a real lathe. I will then have .22 .25 and .308. Want to try and break 400 fpe with .308.
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Dyotat what are you going to use for the internal parts: monocore or baffels?
Very Nice!! Keep them coming!!!
Amazing work 😯
Finished the shroud today. Still have to make the insert for it. It is definitly quiet with just the shroud. Hoping I can make it even better.
The barrel bushing screws in to make sure it all lines up. I just use 2 drills to screw it in
I put a o ring at every joint so it seals and makes it a nice snug fit. I still need turn the OD down on it when it is assembled. Going to make a few more pieces to play with length options.
Here’s more for you.
Went back out to the garage and made the frame to shroud adapter. When all the pieces are put together it will get one final cut to make it all one size.
O ring for the barrel.
Jesus man, this is great!!
Haven’t spent much time on the guns lately. Had to rebuild the suspension on my truck to go visit my daugther last weekend. Spent 3 days replacing the bushing cups on the end of the upper a arms so I could put new bushings in them and redo my shock hoops.
Took the guns with me and had some fun shooting both .308 and .25. The .308 is just impressive how far it shoots.
Noticed the barrel sits a little to the right and makes the gun shoot to the right. I put a sliver of wood in between the barrel and the delrin end cap to push it to the left. When I got home I made a new end cap with a o ring to bring the barrel to center. I know I could probably rotate the barrel in the bushings and re dimple it but it shoots to good and I’m not going to mess with it.
Started on my shrouds today. Turned the OD down and did a test piece for cutting the threads. Cut both sides and put a o ring on it. Works good but i need to cut the male threads deeper next time. 2 pieces on left are .25 and a little smaller OD.
Got to take the .308 out and shoot it Wednesday. Gun shoots good. To bad I got a bad hawke scope and had to send it back today. Wouldn’t hold center. Kept shifting after sighting it in. Would shoot a few shots good and then shift. I had my 6-24×56 on the gun and it worked fine. Removed the scope and left the rings. Installed 8-32×56 in rings. Came home and checked where the wheels were and they were not even close.
So I have 3 set ups .060″, .080″ and .104″. Started on .104″ setting. Uses a lot more air so I went to .080″ setup. Here it shot 858 fps and I couldn’t shoot through the chrono so I fired the first and the 15th through it. 15th shot was 740 if I remember. This was before I had a brain fart and was switching to .104″ and for got to put in the .060″ shim so tophat was at .160″. Let’s just say it was a bad tank dump. Blew the chrono off the table and blew me back quiet a bit. So when I put chrono back together I reset the string and don’t have my numbers. But I can get at least 10-12 shots over 200 fpe.
I also put in the shim for .060″ tophat. It shot 118 gr right around 900 fps. Ran out of time to see how it many shots and how much fps spread there is in 20 or so shots.
I would love to have your kind of talent, and machinery.
I have been using acetal and delrin and have had no problems so far. That’s why a machined the tophat so I could make them as thick as possible. If I have problems I will make them out of aluminum.
nice dude….looks like thats plastic shims…dont know what plastic you are using but the shims i tried…oring…nylon…delrin…all got hammered to crap and would fail the very moment i thought the rifle was ready for prime time…that is dressed for -20f and in a gillie….middle of nowhere ready to hunt….
Made a different stem seal and put a larger diameter spring it my valve today. I’m back to shooting 171 gr with a tophat of .107″ now. Got 874 fps for 290 fpe. Also machined the tophat collar down so I could make some thicker shims. I have 3 settings now, .060″, .080″, and .104″. Going to take it out and shoot it on Wednesday. With .080″ tophat I loose about 30 fps but it uses a lot less air. .060″ will be for the lighter stuff.
Finished the body of my next valve. Going to try a few things with this one.
Started on another valve for the .308. Going to be a large condor valve that will screw in to a tank instead of needing a etac to run it. Body is going to be .200″ longer so the seal has more air around it.
Got it back up and running today. First shot was tank dump with new barrel. Put in the shim for .080″ tophat and all is good. Started out in the 780’s and after about 10 shots it is back up if not better than it was with .080″ tophat. The best it has done is 858 fps with 171 gr and .104″ tophat. Today I got 841 fps with 171 gr and .080″ tophat.
I will work on making it adjustable with shims tomorrow so I can go .080″, .085″, .090″, .095″ and .100″ to see the difference and when if its going to dump. Also put my barrel in the indexer and dimpled it for the set screws.
Aluminum and delrin breech is still together. Found away to make a delrin breech work with a larger o ring but I will have to machine another frame and reposition the cocking knob. Will turn this frame into my .25 slug gun with my 24″ unchoked barrel I have. Will machine the .25 frame for my .308. Sucks because every frame is just a little different and I machined bushings for all the frames already. Now I will have to do them again.
Also made a adjustable hammer. If I wanted it could go from 65 gr to 107 gr. I have it set at 103 right now.
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A core that will screw in and also be the end cap.