ATN COCKING LEVER, INSTALLATION, AND ADJUSTMENTS NEEDED!
:hoot:
YES! It’s all metal. It’s quality construction!
The kit contains loose parts that YOU will need to install. Most of the kit is pre-assembled, so don’t panic when you look at the picture and don’t see corresponding parts in the bags.
First….the parts list… but some are already assembled in the kit, note my arrows as I tried to determine if everything arrived:
Now, this is how all the parts ended up as “assembled” or “loose”….note there are only six parts you actually need to ‘install’.
Here are the parts you need to attach…two short screws in the front, two long screws in the rear that attach the cocking block to the side of the gun, and finally one screw to attach to the gun’s internal cocking bolt. That’s five (5) moving parts to attach…the cover plate does have a right and wrong side! Look for the side with the angled hole entries, that side faces out.
Now…a word of warning, take note, at the far right of the below image, the block the lever is hinged to (201) and it’s two screws (210)…are ADJUSTABLE parts, and must be leveled before tightened in place. Fail to do this correctly and the gun won’t cock smoothly, if at all. Bold print at bottom of post explains all….
I’m going with a left handed installation.
CRITICAL INSTALLATION CORRECTION…MUST READ!!!
THE LEVER (PART 204) ATTACHED TO PART 205 MUST BE LINED UP CORRECTLY BEFORE TIGHTENING THE TWO LONG SCREWS THAT HOLD PART 201 IN PLACE AGAINST THE SIDE PLATE! PART 201 IS ADJUSTABLE IN POSITION TO PERMIT THE COCKING LEVER TO OPERATE SMOOTHLY, IT IS THEN LOCKED IN PLACE BY THE TWO LONG SCREWS (PARTS 210).
I suggest the following sequence…
1) SNUG-TIGHTEN THE FRONT TWO SCREWS, THEN START THE TWO LONG SCREWS THAT HOLD PART 201 TO THE SIDE PLATE, LEAVE THEM LOOSE.
2) NOW ATTACH PART 205 WITH THE THICK SCREW 208 TO THE SLIDING CYLINDER INSIDE THE GUN…YOU MAY TIGHTEN IT FIRMLY AT THIS TIME.
3) THIS IS IMPORTANT…YOU MUST “ADJUST” THE ANGLE OF PART 201, THE HINGE BLOCK, SO THE COCKING LEVER IS LEVEL AND SLIDES BACK AND FORTH SMOOTHLY! PART 201 DOES NOT SCREW AUTOMATICALLY INTO IT’S CORRECT POSITION.
4) YOU MUST GENTLY ADJUST PART 201 UP/DOWN UNTIL THE ATTACHED COCKING LEVER TRAVELS LEVEL AND EVEN INSIDE THE SIDE PLATE. FAILURE TO DO THIS CAUSES PART 205 TO “GRIND” AGAINST THE COVER PLATE, AND THE COCKING LEVER BECOMES EXTREMELY DIFFICULT OR IMPOSSIBLE TO MOVE.
5) ONCE THE COCKING LEVER MOVES BACK AND FORTH, BUTTERY SMOOTH, AND HOLDING PART 201 IN PLACE, CAREFULLY FINAL TIGHTEN THE TWO LONG SCREWS (PARTS 210) THAT HOLD PART 201, TO THE SIDE PLATE. WHILE TIGHTENING THESE TWO LONG SCREWS, MOVE THE COCKING LEVER BACK AND FORTH A FEW TIMES TO ENSURE THE COCKING LEVER IS STILL LINED UP STRAIGHT, BEFORE FINAL SNUGGING THE TWO SCREWS DOWN.
CAREFUL INSTALLATION OF PARTS 201 AND 210 ARE THE KEY TO PROPER ALIGNMENT OF THE COCKING LEVER, AND IT’S SMOOTH OPERATION.
(Phew!!! I’m tired. It took three hours to pinpoint the real cause of the problem.)
kind regards,
Exhausted Uncle Hoot:
UPDATED INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 1/7/2017
Photobucket sucks!!!![/b]
All Replies
Kris, here’s a photo. It’s running parallel now. Hoot, I had the plate on right from the start and I tried rotating it 180 degree length wise, not inside out which keeps the screw hole tapers the same. The plate’s two outer edges (surrounding the inside open slot) are not the same size just like the hinge. It’s good to go now. Tried finding a M3 counter sunk hex screw at four places in our town to no avail. One guy ask me what it went on and I told him an air gun, his recommendation was a gun shop.. dump ass.
Jimmy
One major disadvantage I have discovered about the the side lever is…
I’m blasting through pellets even faster than ever. Emptied out five magazines in just a few minutes.
Takes longer to load the magazines than to shoot them.
We need auto loaded 50 round magazines to go along with these levers. Can’t imaging how bad it would be in a semi.
:hoot:
Dear Smacklegracker,
How in the supreme hell did you get that plate on wrong? The screw holes are tapered on the outside and if you put it on backwards and upside down, the screw heads would protrude, and create a fire hazard!
Hoot:
PS: For those interested, there’s a new product on Amazon…”Yak Testicle Extract“. It’s supposed to put lead back in your pencil…if you follow my drift. Might be worth checking out.
Gracklesmacker take a picture with a correct setup or everybody else will mount the hinge upside down
:rofl:
yes, the side plate seems correctly oriented but the hinge indeed needs turning 180deg on that picture. plus you had to pull out the pin and move it right. or just rotate the sideplate so it matches up with the hinge.
it is always the last combination is the right. there is a drawing but it is showing the left hand side setup only. you have to use a mirror
the fun never ends.
Looks real nice Cracksmacker. When my next SS check comes maybe I’ll be able to afford one.
Thanks for the help guys. Got my stripped screw out and the block turned over. Cocks a tad better but looks a hell of lot better 😉 . Instructions might have helped, but there’s also a good chance I wouldn’t have read them anyway…. it’s a man thing you know. :biggrinn:
PS, will be going back with hex headed screws though.
JK
Gracklesmacker, your hinge block is upside down. That’s why you had the rubbing problem. See how the lever is siting sloped slightly downward instead of parallel to the barrel?
The hing block is NOT symmetric top/bottom. The slot for the lever is a little higher than center when it is in correct position. Otherwise, the system does not line up parallel with the barrel. It still functions, but you run into rubbing issues.
For a right hand install, you need to remove the grub screw, hinge pin, and flip the hinge block over.
Got mine installed in a jiffy with zero problems. Not sure if it’s a newer style or not. It took longer to get the side plate screws out than to install kit. I did empty two clips and it’s nice and smooth
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When I first put my on it was really smooth to operate and no issues. But I got to noticing that maybe the handle wasn’t folding in as far as it should. Further inspection showed that the bottom hinge was hitting the top edge of the plate’s slot (lower edge). I also notice that the slot is off center in the plate so I flipped it over but this made the block that attaches to the bolt slide make contact in the slot way to much. Flipped it back over, same issue so I just filed down the contact spot on the plate and that allow the handle to fold in further and blacked it out with a sharpie. The end of the handle is approximately 1/8″ away from the plate now in the closed position. Upon further inspection again I noticed that the bottom of the hinge or maybe just the pin is just touching the plate still. I mean just by a hair… so being anal as I am and wanting it to go on into the slot I decided to remove the plate one more time and file that one spot of contact. As my luck would be one of the longer screw’s head stripped. :suprisedn: :suprisedn: I’ve had the plates off numerous times with just the conventional hex heads and never had an issue but this one only after 2-3 removals stripped. The handle is fine where it is but eventually I’ll have to deal with that screw. Over all it is a great mod though.
jk
aha aha but then why would there be a second hole for the grub screw. Will try tomorrow with the flipped sideplate too to compare and see the clearances, but it seems fine already as it is.
guykuo thanks for the input. I thought you have fucked up yours already :rofl:
i was amazed that mine delivered at all. You know in that part of the world, they celebrate proper Christmas and stuff. I know, I come from there.
Thank you AGT!!!
I would recommend taking the whole lever out when changing to right side. If you don’t the handle doesn’t align properly. The hinge block isn’t symmetric up/down. There is a definite top and bottom to it. Failing to flip it will cause the lever assembly to move slightly up/down rather than pure back/forward. It’s very easy to push out the hinge pin once the grub screw is loosened.
I am awaiting arrival of a side plate. It was missing from my kit.
Oh yea, my lever block is a matte finish too whereas the rest is a glossy finish… I think it’s because the matt finish piece appears to be aluminum and the other parts are steel… :8:
Kris,
I got mine in yesterday, and mine went on perfectly and is very smooth, and to change from left to right, you just need to unscrew the handle portion and flip it over, you don’t have to take the whole lever out. The thing I did notice about mine was the new replacement side plate does have a “top” and ”bottom” to it. One way allows the block that attaches to the bolt to ride more or less in the center of the slot. Flipped over, it is not centered. It still worked, but there was some drag. I turned it back over and the block centered just fine and there’s no contact with any of the moving parts of the gun and the mod kit. I cannot believe how much smoother it is!
my metal block, in which cocking lever pin is (you had to drive it out to make it right handed setup even with the grub screw removed) is matt not gloss finish, is it the same gentlemen with your bits?
i noticed you have no side plate mounted, while other user had his scratched up. is it why the runner is touching it? was thinking i will install the side plate 180deg rotated…but i think it will allow for more sag on the side. what do you think
it is a good optional mod. works great. recommended! :8:
you need Torx 10 and T20 driver bits. plus metric allen keys various sizes. i had to use 2 allen keys at the same time to take of the handle/knob when i made my right hand configuration since the knob was upside down. Originally i had the cocking bolt on the left hand side. Did try on both left and right. Kept it on the right yea
I put some Singer oil on the areas which may wear, time will tell. Operation is flawless. Mine does not click that much. but i have a weaker spring in there.
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WOW What a difference. This should have had a lever from the start!!!!
I didn’t have any rubber bumpers like the post above but I did have some self stick felt type pads (you can get them round, square, triangular) like used on chair legs, etc. Mine were about 3/4 inch dia. I cut a small square out of one the width of the lever rod. Stuck it almost all the way out at the barrel end of the lever. My pad was beige so I painted it with a sharpie.
BTW, wish all the screws in the gun were torx. I got 3 out of 4 out of the side plate before stripping a head. The 4th I cut a groove with a dremel (plus a little on the old side plate by accident), stuck the corner of a flat head screwdriver in the groove at the edge of the screw head and tapped the screwdriver. Knocked it loose and then I was able to unscrew it. Wouldn’t want to do that anywhere else on the gun. I’d probably mark the gun up a lot worse. Well the old side plate isn’t going to be used so no big deal. A sharpie probably would fix it fine.
I may do the magnet mod after someone tells me how to “glue” it on. That will be a one shot deal to get it right I’m sure. Also have to wait on that china boat to get the magnets to Hoot so he can forward.