How is this smooth edge created ?
In the attached image of a tank adapter I can understand the 4 centerlines (red,green,blue,yellow) needed to turn this piece. What I don’t understand is the purple circled area. How is that shaped so nicely to blend with all the other curved surfaces ?
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Here’s another thought. Is there any fitting out there that may have been forged and already has an open core or is similar to the Z E-TaC design described in this thread to use as a starter peice and then worked, which might save some ?
baz:
How did you mount that weaver rail ?
Here’s a picture of it in bits with a day-time scope. Its got an 8″ barrel, Hogan decimater silencer, 4 grip as far back as possible, 200cc bottle, scope rail cut off replaced with a length of weaver rail, side cocking bolt, anodizing sripped off and re-anodized.
😯
Damn dude!!! Awesome stuff!!!
That is truly a AF pistol right there. 😉
Here’s a picture of it in bits with a day-time scope. Its got an 8″ barrel, Hogan decimater silencer, 4 grip as far back as possible, 200cc bottle, scope rail cut off replaced with a length of weaver rail, side cocking bolt, anodizing sripped off and re-anodized.
baz – what about small shim washers to “clock” the alignment ?
Also how about a design that takes the Regulator. Any thoughts there ?
http://jdsairman.com/Regs.html
This gun is beautiful
Here are some pictures of some stealths with bottle adaptors fitted. The main reason for using these was to get the bottle lower. All three guns belong to a friend of mine who lives near by so i’ve been able to machine the parts so the adaptors line up with the frame. But every frame and valve line up different because it all depends where the collar in the frame that the valve screws into has been set as these collars are drilled ramdomly so the threads could start anywhere. Thats why the butt pad on the bottle can swivel 360 degrees, try swapping a bottle from one frame to another and you’ll see what i mean. Thats why it would be unfair to make the parts and take $100-$200 off someone and send them the part as it would be very unlikely to line up correctly. And so this would mean alot of stripping of the frame and re-drilling the collar, this may sound easy but in practice if you are out by a couple of degrees this is exaggerated by the drop of the bottle. Until this can be sorted out satisfactually i think its best to not sell these to people, as it may cause alot of headaches and fustration for people who live so far away and are unable to get it fitted correctly in my workshop. I am looking into having the valve end of the adaptor swivelling to aid lining up. I’ll post pictures as soon as i can sort this out. Thanks.
I have been looking for an excuse to buy a mini lathe -maybe this is as good a reason as any 😀
The only way to get the cost down is to make a run of them on CNC. You need to pay for programming, set up, tooling and machine time.
So I guess this is where we are at, and correct me if I’m wrong as I am not trying to offend anyone:
Cost to produce is ~$200.
No one will pay ~200 (especially if a an E-TaC is already being made for $100).
No machinist is going to input the time to “give away / reduce their wages” part of the labor of producing these, to keep the cost down.
The alternative to getting one made, would mean making it oneself.
I am not skilled enough to make that.
That would be a nice CNC project
Gauges are at macmaster Carr. They are just for reference. Some are close some are off. To put the threads in is easy part. Would take me 10 min to do both. Same price
baz – walkonlking – dyotat101
Just curious – IF you finshed everything but the final thread cuts, what would you sell a piece for ?
That way I could tap and die and bore out the remaining center ?
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Somehow I get the feeling that Baz didn’t look for any off the shelf fittings to polish up!