Making the .25 Edgun quiet, easily and inexpensively…
The key to the Edgun .25 making less noise is reducing the air pressure at the muzzle. There are a few ways to do this without engaging in exotic baffle designs, or spending money on an aftermarket shroud or moderator.
Here’s how it’s done:
The first step is to remove both the baffle cover, which is unscrewed counter clockwise, by hand, then removing the bottom shroud by removing the barrel bushing/vent nut. Then you can easily enlarge the existing vent holes at the rear of the Edgun shroud with a variable speed hand drill. I made my lower shroud vent holes 2.0mm in diameter:
You can go larger if you wish. If you go too large and begin to hear air “whoosh” out of the vent holes when firing, just wrap some felt around the inside of the shroud, behind the vent holes, to slow the air down. You can touch them up with the tip of a permanent ink black felt tip Sharpie. This is how they look when done, but before the Sharpie touchup:
The next step is to increase the air flow from the front of the Edgun to the rear of the shroud. Now on the R3 this is a bit more complicated because the shroud comes in two parts, so I will concentrate on the R3. Unscrew the top shroud, baffle cover, taking care to remove it easily because the O-ring can be damaged on the threads. Be sure to put silicone grease that O-ring before putting it back on. Note the bottom shroud, and barrel, are held in place by a 19mm nut with vent holes in it. It unscrews easily, counter-clockwise, with a common metric wrench:
After it is taken off, you then enlarge the holes in the nut with a variable speed drill. I went 2.5mm, you may choose to go smaller, but not much larger, as the hole diameter affects the strength of the nut.
After this is done, you simply replace the bottom shroud, then the barrel bushing, being certain that the bottom of the shroud is properly placed OVER the rim of the permanent cone shaped breech attachment. If you ignore this step, you will bend the bottom of the shroud when you tighten the nut…note the bottom of the shroud sitting flush against the cone shaped breech attachment in this picture. The hidden rim inside the shroud is about 1/8″ or so tall, but it must have the shroud placed evenly over it before tightening the nut. When you lift up and remove the bottom shroud, you will easily spot it, as the cone shaped breech attachment remains in place:
Finally, there has been much discussion regarding how much torque must be used to tighten the nut that holds the barrel and bottom shroud in place. This is not a difficult process. First you obtain a Russian Torque Wrench…see below picture:
Placing the 19mm wrench in this handy grasping tool, you tighten the nut to where it is snug against the shroud, then you go roughly 1/2 turn further. That’s all it takes. Remember, this is thin and fairly soft aluminum and will strip threads or bend rather easily. AND…if you have placed the bottom of the barrel shroud over the lip of the cone shaped breech attachment, you will not have bent, or dented, the bottom of the shroud.
Replacing the top shroud (baffle cover) is easily done, just be careful sliding the cover over the O-ring using a light downward pressure and clockwise screwing motion until it gets past the threads on the cover. Snug it up hand tight, no more.
That’s it! You can expect at least a 50% reduction in muzzle blast, which on the Long Edgun makes the hammer slap the loudest noise emitted when shooting the gun. It costs nothing, takes about 1/2 hour, a couple of metric bits, and a variable speed hand drill. Take your time. The existing holes will guide the bit if you proceed slowly, especially when starting the new hole.
Now, for that hammer slap…I’m still working on that one.
Regards,
Kindly ‘Ol Uncle H 😯 😯 t
All Replies
😆
Nope, two COMPLETELY different people. Hoot’s a suave debonaire city guy and i’m a local backwoods hick. 
You shouldn’t see any loss of air efficiency on this mod. This mod effects the air after it has left the barrel/valve.
You shouldn’t. The baffles and tube are meant to deal with the exhaust; the compressed air released from the tank via the valve transfer port. The air that is used to propel the pellet up the barrel is substantial. It is also going very fast. This is where the baffles and mod tube come into play. They are supposed to slow the air and diffuse it. Just think about how the exhaust system works on a car. Same principle.
OT – I was under the impression that Hoot was Syn or vice versa all along. To me, very similar intelligences. Just my dos centavos.
Hey thanks man. So I ‘jetted’ the vent holes on the baffle shroud to 2.0mm and the vent holes on the baffle nut to 2.5mm. Not sure of improvement. How do you guys suggest the muffling material inside the barrel shroud?
You shouldn’t. The baffles and tube are meant to deal with the exhaust; the compressed air released from the tank via the valve transfer port. The air that is used to propel the pellet up the barrel is substantial. It is also going very fast. This is where the baffles and mod tube come into play. They are supposed to slow the air and diffuse it. Just think about how the exhaust system works on a car. Same principle.
OT – I was under the impression that Hoot was Syn or vice versa all along. To me, very similar intelligences. Just my dos centavos.
Will I lose air use efficiency with this modification?
That’s not what yer sister-wife told me the other day after she paid me to do things to her you never could.
She said you busted it trying to inflate your rectum… 😐
I bet you’re still using that pump. That thing was nearly brand new when I sent it to you! 😉
PS, I won’t tell Gabe that he will actually destroy his EdGun if he follows your mod. It’s not very nice to play an April Fool’s joke on everyone in August!!!
Don’t ever change Hoot!!!! :8:
All in good fun guys.
This is the TAG after all. 😉
Simple-minded, ugly, midget, gay, Liberal, male appendage suctioning, Cretin!!! The best part of you, as a man, ran down your mother’s leg, as she chased down the one-legged dog that fathered you, to collect her fee!!!
I haven’t forgotten that you sent me a “free” air pump, knowing it was defective….I could hear you laughing when I tried to pry it apart with torch, cutters and wrench.
If there is a hell, you and all your Liberal asshole associates will burn there, forever, forever and an additional week, if I have a word about it!!!
Kindest regards,
Your friend ‘Ol Uncle H 😯 😯 t
PS: Gabe…my results were the same. I also opened up the holes a bit more after I saw that it seemed to help. The “SLAP” of the 30gr pellets I use are much much louder than any residual muzzle report. I reduced my Cricket’s report to near zero with a Neil Clague 10.5″ slide-on moderator, but I can’t see where that is needed here. There would be benefit from another inch or two of baffles, and I’m wondering if something could be added to the existing baffle assembly to further disrupt the air flow. Something simple to force more air to the back of the shroud. Perhaps a common 1/4″ metal washer inserted between the odd baffle, with small vent holes around it’s perimeter. It could be epoxied in place and removed if there was no appreciable decrease in report. I might give that a try tomorrow.
(Gabe…do me a solid and don’t mention a word of this to that asshole Synoposys…I don’t want his gun to be quieter than mine!)
I was idling this afternoon so I decided to open up the holes on my R3 .25 long. I opened up the holes to 7/64 inches or 3.2 mils and the holes running underneath to 1/8 inches each. Five underneath and the original ten.
Adding all the hole diameters equals 1.72 inches. I compared this to Demp’s gun and his equals 1.97 inches. I was thinking of copying his layout but decided to just open up the original holes and do something different. I was careful not to over torque the baffle nut because of the material I removed may have compromised the integrity of the tube. I was also thinking that since all the holes are circular, the strength of the aluminum should not be affected to much. However, I was still cautious with my right hand.
I didn’t really noticed much of a difference shooting the same pellet, at the same spot, and pressure. I believe I maxed out and any more holes or making them bigger would not yield better results. I also stuffed scotchbrite into the shroud tube following Demp’s lead. To make it more quiet, I think the gun will need a longer baffle assembly. Maybe three or four inches more. I wouldn’t mine the extra length if Ed or someone else was willing to make a replacement part. It would be interesting to see the results for sure.
Bottomline,I think it is worth the time and effort. I find it challenging and fun to think out a project with the help of everyone.
I totally forgot about the hammer dampening idea we were discussing. Oh well. Maybe next time.
Gabe G.
Ah, it’s Hoot, he knows i’m just messing with him.
All in good fun guys.
This is the TAG after all. 😉
Stupid questions, maybe I will be joining you with those that find this website after I am gone :6: :lol:. Anyways, do I need to degas the gun to do this modification? I never have removed the barrel baffle before (say that 10 times fast), do the vent holes in the nut go thru and thru? I guess drilling would be from the breech side of the nut if so, yes?
Hi,
You don’t need to degas. Your biggest challenge will probably be removing the baffles. They are torqued on with a lot of force. Find the YouTube video showing Ed removing the barrel. You will need a good vice and a 19mm wrench.
Drilling the holes is a simple matter of drilling through the exiting holes on the shroud and baffle nut. Follow the steps in reverse assemble. Make sure to torque down the baffle nut to achieve barrel tension. Hoot suggested half a turn after snugging the nut on. It felt spot on when it torqued mine on. Don’t over do it though. I believe Ed designed the barrel mounting system to have the barrel in tension for accuracy purposes. I placed a dab of anti-seize paste on the barrel threads b4 attaching the baffle nut since it is made of aluminum. That’s it. Go slow and secure the parts you are working on.
My gun is not completely silent but it is at least 50 % quieter just like Hoot said. I’m more concerned now with the pellet impact noise. The .25 is a powerful gun and when it fires, you know it regardless of the noise reduction. My .22 cricket feels like a peashooter in comparison.
Gabe
I bet if you ask nicely Hoot will send you his Russian Torque Wrench. I heard he hasn’t used it since he ran out of the little blue pills. 😉 Ask him to shave it before he send it, i’ve hear the hair grows back pretty quick.
I guess I opened myself for that flatulence by the way I worded my questions. They are real ones by the way and I must say the humor is clever but the mind that comes up with that you gotta wonder 😛
I bet if you ask nicely Hoot will send you his Russian Torque Wrench. I heard he hasn’t used it since he ran out of the little blue pills. 😉 Ask him to shave it before he send it, i’ve hear the hair grows back pretty quick.
Lmao awww that was alittle much 😕
Nope.
I bet if you ask nicely Hoot will send you his Russian Torque Wrench. I heard he hasn’t used it since he ran out of the little blue pills. 😉 Ask him to shave it before he send it, i’ve hear the hair grows back pretty quick.
OK Hoot,
Stupid questions, maybe I will be joining you with those that find this website after I am gone :6: :lol:. Anyways, do I need to degas the gun to do this modification? I never have removed the barrel baffle before (say that 10 times fast), do the vent holes in the nut go thru and thru? I guess drilling would be from the breech side of the nut if so, yes?
Why not try pipe tube insulation material that you get at Home Depot for a couple of bucks? I bet that with a sharp razor and a little patience you could trim a sleeve that would fit nicely in the available space and not interfere with the hammer and valve. The $64,000 question is, how much of a difference will it make? Inquiring minds need to know!
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You guys are some cool fools :8:
Stuff the tube with scotch brite or felt. Use enough to cover the holes. I used a two or three inch piece towards the breech end of the tube in order to block the air flow on my set up.
Experiment. Try without and with the scotch brite. I went with the pads bc Demp said it worked. It made sense to me so it was a no brainier. Half the fun of owning these gun is messing with them.
Gabe