My EdGun Matador R3M 22 cal
I received my Matador (01/05/2014) in absolutely perfect condition and in 3 days ! 
I enjoyed talking to Tony R, he is easy to joke around with so much so I forgot to order some extra Brass rings ! 😳
2+3 extra mags, 2 valve stems and an extra fill probe.
I fill to 220 bar and shot down to 110 bar using JSB 18g, here the out of box chrony results with a 920 fps average.
I refilled to 200 bar and got 50 good shots down to 120 bar.
I haven’t cleaned the barrel yet, 5 shot group at 50 yards with little wind.
5 shot group 75 yards with little wind.
At rest on my chrony/work bench, I can’t wait for this weekend hopping it doesn’t rain !!
Thanks for l@@king !
~ Greg
All Replies
i had same issue on my Edgun .22 cal STD … it was shifting to right side about 4-5 clicks (my Edgun Scopes are MIL/MIL) i zeroed at 70 metrs and when i shot to close distances it was shifting ,,, i changed the scope mounts and tried so many ways to figure it out this issue,,, then i became to know it was the shroud tension nut, i just not remember whether i loosen it up or tighten it up,,,but i remember it was about 1/2 turn … and the shifting gone …
so, this issue is so easy if you are sure that you have installed your scope correctly (you all now the rules)… just try 1/4 or 1/2 or more or less on your shroud nut loosen or tighten ,,,then it will solve ..
Yes Hemn,
I bet it was Counterclockwise / loosen by 1/2 turn.
~ Greg
i think you are totally right,,,because basically i wanted to write (loosen),,but was not sure 100% …and i never post/tell wrong info… but most probably it was loosen,, thanks my brother …
It is really easy to do. You have your scope in normal position. Then you rotate it by 180 degrees. If the center of the reticle is e.g. 1MRAD to the left of the starting point then you move the reticle by 0.5MRAD to the left (or right if you stay in this upside down position).
Yea that will work fine Shooter3 ……..
It takes sometime in getting use to doing but worth it.
I have a laser on mine so I have something to align to and I don’t need to keep the V block jig still to calibrate the scope to optical center.
~ Greg
i had same issue on my Edgun .22 cal STD … it was shifting to right side about 4-5 clicks (my Edgun Scopes are MIL/MIL) i zeroed at 70 metrs and when i shot to close distances it was shifting ,,, i changed the scope mounts and tried so many ways to figure it out this issue,,, then i became to know it was the shroud tension nut, i just not remember whether i loosen it up or tighten it up,,,but i remember it was about 1/2 turn … and the shifting gone …
so, this issue is so easy if you are sure that you have installed your scope correctly (you all now the rules)… just try 1/4 or 1/2 or more or less on your shroud nut loosen or tighten ,,,then it will solve ..
Yes Hemn,
I bet it was Counterclockwise / loosen by 1/2 turn.
~ Greg
GKU, thanks for the information. I’ve learnt something new. This is how I found the optical center of the scope:
It is really easy to do. You have your scope in normal position. Then you rotate it by 180 degrees. If the center of the reticle is e.g. 1MRAD to the left of the starting point then you move the reticle by 0.5MRAD to the left (or right if you stay in this upside down position).
Guys,,,
i had same issue on my Edgun .22 cal STD … it was shifting to right side about 4-5 clicks (my Edgun Scopes are MIL/MIL) i zeroed at 70 metrs and when i shot to close distances it was shifting ,,, i changed the scope mounts and tried so many ways to figure it out this issue,,, then i became to know it was the shroud tension nut, i just not remember whether i loosen it up or tighten it up,,,but i remember it was about 1/2 turn … and the shifting gone …
so, this issue is so easy if you are sure that you have installed your scope correctly (you all now the rules)… just try 1/4 or 1/2 or more or less on your shroud nut loosen or tighten ,,,then it will solve ..
Optically centering or return to factory zero referred by some is scope installation 101, you’ll need to read up on how to and for the reasons why it’s done. The mirror method sucks you need to make a centering jig it’s more accurate IMO. Basically it’s where the scope performs it’s best mechanically and optically and is the most happiest.
https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en#hl=en&q=optically+centering+a+scope
Once you have a Optically centered scope mount it on your gun and keep the gun level, fire a 5 shot group on paper @ 50 yards or so and note POI and POA.
Be only concerned about the left to right error for now and don’t adjust the turrets.
If it’s off to one side the barrel and the scope is not in lateral alignment with each other, some refer this as canting error but I think that’s a wrong term for the analogy.
In all of my pups/airguns I have found that to some degree the barrel is not in perfect lateral alignment with the scope rail.
I’d make the adjustment with the rings to zero by shimming/lapping alignment jig or using rings that are made to compensate like the Burris.
But I have been lucky to make use of the fact that UTG rings come already a bit off and use that to my advantage by flipping them to see which way gets me closer to zero with the Optically centered scope.
But, uniquely with the Edgun Matador it was possible for me to adjust/calibrate the gun to a optically centered scope by turning the barrel tension nut CW or CCW …….. …. . :winkn:
. …. ….. more on barrel alignment to the scope/rail.
http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=31898&p=323251
~ Greg , p.s. If you’re not experiencing any close to far POI issues you’re good to go.
How do you know that your scope is optically centered? How did you know that it was perfectly aligned from left to right but a bit off vertically about a MOA or 21 according to ChairGun? So MOA or 21?
“After tensioning the barrel I loosen the 2 scope rail hex bolts to release and reset it to the new barrel tension by giving it a couple of taps back and forth with a soft tool.”
Am I correct that after loosening 2 scope rail hex bolts you hit the rail with some kind of a rubber hammer and then you tightened the bolts again? From which angle did you hit? Could you describe it somehow? How much torque did you use for tightening?
You also lubed the nut to allow for smoother tightening. Did you lube the nut only or maybe the base touching the rail as well? How much torque did you use to tension the barrel?
After applying all of these tricks you ended up with a perfectly aligned scope?
I think that R4 will not have these problems because the rail is made of a single piece of metal there.
I loosen the 2 hex all the way out and the rail was still on tight so I tap the front of the rail to jar it loose and then the back of the rail to probably align it with the mag indents/slots. Torque it to about 25-30 in/lbs kind of close to scope ring base to rail specs.
I Moly lube only the nut treads and it’s contact surface face to the LDC fitting.
I don’t have a torque wrench that works with the large Hex key so I torque it by feel but I’m sure it’s a bit less then the factory tension.
It perfectly aligned from left to right but a bit off vertically about a MOA or 21 according to ChairGun.
Also note that when I turn the nut CCW to increase the correction the gun had been/was fully assembled at the time.
I just held it between my legs pointing upwards and inserted the large hex key and gave it a very slight turn CCW, it kind of made a squeak.
When I shot to recheck the POI was perfectly align from left to right to the Optically centered scope.
After all is done the POI should remain in exactly the same place and the barrel assembly will retain your calibration.
The Eddie is a dream to work on ……… … ..
~ Greg
GKU, you mentioned:
“After tensioning the barrel I loosen the 2 scope rail hex bolts to release and reset it to the new barrel tension by giving it a couple of taps back and forth with a soft tool.”
Am I correct that after loosening 2 scope rail hex bolts you hit the rail with some kind of a rubber hammer and then you tightened the bolts again? From which angle did you hit? Could you describe it somehow? How much torque did you use for tightening?
You also lubed the nut to allow for smoother tightening. Did you lube the nut only or maybe the base touching the rail as well? How much torque did you use to tension the barrel?
After applying all of these tricks you ended up with a perfectly aligned scope?
I think that R4 will not have these problems because the rail is made of a single piece of metal there.
Being in desperation in tuning and refining the trigger I bought this and try it on the sear/hammer engagement hammer spring and rod.
It made the friction on the sear slip better and till now hasn’t changed the pull weight, very consistent.
Sir Ville recommend using it on the Cricket, cocking plate and areas of ware and tare.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221981018766?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
~ Greg
Sure thing keyser soze and Jaime ……..
Dang it’s not like it’s broken or anything mine just needed a tweaking, now it’s closer to that perfecto and good to go.
~ Greg
Greg this is awesome. Thanks for this discovery.
I removed the offset moderator cause i thought it messed my POI up…. and my gun hasn’t been the same since…. Ill try that next time i get some ambition …..
Hey Dman,
I noticed a vertical change as well and that my the 20 MOA rail was increased to 24 MOA even before adding/changing to the Off Set LDC.
I do think it can go down also depending if one sets the barrel tension higher or lower from the previous factory torque setting.
If it’s lower then the factory torque the rail will concave and the POI will be lower.
If it’s higher in tension was the rail will convex and the POI will be higher.
This will insure the scope rail will be flatten out and straighten.
After tensioning the barrel I loosen the 2 scope rail hex bolts to release and reset it to the new barrel tension by giving it a couple of taps back and forth with a soft tool.
Making sure the mag holder is perfectly level and not rubbing one way or the other, with the bottom of the rail and frame by placing one in to check before tightening.
If one de-tension the barrel nut again you need to reset the scope rail once more.
Also if anyone else noticed a change in the POI when reattaching you scope after doing the Off Set LDC change or de-tensioning the barrel.
You can ask yourself what/where/how, made it move or change ?
Just a scope remounting usually moves/changes POI not more than 1/2 MOA if not any ?
~ Greg
Good info Here…..
I removed the offset moderator cause i thought it messed my POI up…. and my gun hasn’t been the same since…. Ill try that next time i get some ambition …..
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The factory twist is most likely clockwise from the tightening/torqueing of the barrel nut and the frame followed that clockwise twist direction also.
The tightening can also makes the scope rail increase MOA to about 24 MOA on mines from the factory before my calibration.
I believe that is why some owner reported it was hard for them to even zero at 50 yards because they ran out of downward vertical turret adjustment.
~ Greg