My EdGun Matador R3M 22 cal

crap, sorry it’s 3/16″ OD x 1/8″ ID, actual is .195″ OD x .12″ ID, it seems more like metric 5mm OD x 3mm ID ?
with the shrink tubing = .22″ OD total.

Not sure if other owners notice that if you cock the gun and squeeze off the first stage and stop before the break then release the trigger.
Squeeze off the first stage again, it will have a lighter pull compare to the first pull and will remain lighter until you re-cock it again to fully engage the shear again.

With the tube in place I don’t have that effect, the trigger pressure is the same all the time now and IMO feels excellent.
Also I need to move the trigger back so I can reach it better for my size of hand.

~ Greg

I’m glade that Ed kept the old lock down hole in the HST housing, mines keeps coming loose. 😡

I whittled down the treads on a nylon screw, cut an angle on the end and trimmed it to length.
Found a hex grub screw and installed them both into the old lock down hole.

Tighten the grubs screw down to fully seated the nylon insert into the treads of the HST then back it out.
Now to make adjustments, tighten the grub screw down till I can no longer turn the HST with my fingers.
Then tighten the black lock nut down, no need to cock the gun first like before beside that didn’t hold/work for long.

~ GKU

I was reluctant to add ….. a caution !
But believe owner should know there guns before tinkering.

When removing the Trigger assembly DO NOT dry fire, it will/can break the hammer springs guide rod !

I cock the hammer back, hold it back with one hand when pulling the trigger with the other to test the shear engagement and break, but I don’t recommend it !

~ Greg

Hi Mike long time Sir ………….
I had a lot of guns, the wife made me sell the ones I hardly shoot anymore.
I got rid of some rifles that for me just to long to bring up in the bush !
Keeping all the pups which over the years I’ve grown very fond of.

It seems that it’s always the newest one that’s get all the attention in my collection.
But in time with target shooting during break-in, some crony work and fine tune if needed towards the end.
Then it’s time for business no more target shooting and they all have a specific task to do.

The Cricket compact 177 cal I use for indoor pesting in malls, to minimize possible damage indoors it can be quickly adjusted from 8-20 fpe !
The Cricket 22 cal std I use for pesting at farms.
The Mutant Shorty is my Ratting gun.

The Matador R3M I had to get before the newer R4 comes out, to see how it shoots compared to the R2 that I sold to a friend years ago.
I wanted to see how it stack up to the Cricket 22 in all it’s ways, it’s still to early to tell.

But, so far the trigger on the R3M has improved over the R2.
The Matador 22 cal std is louder than my Cricket 22 std out of box shooting at the same FPE.
The trigger on the 2 after the mod above on the Matador I rate it about the same as my Crickets.
The Matador achieved 1/4″ grouping at 50 yards much faster then both of my Crickets.

They both have their idiosyncrasy, but if one is a avid Air Gunner/Pup Collector/Shooter/Pester they need to own both in onetime or another.

I’ve been a gym rat for almost as long as you Mike, but about 10 years ago started to do it more seriously.
A bit of caution Mike it can be very dangerous, really if you haven’t heard of it already !
I’m into Doggcrapp training AKA: DC training by Dante Trudel.
You need to register to view most post.
http://www.intensemuscle.com/forumdisplay.php?f=45

Ya, the diet (cutting) all that plan caveman food gets to me also.

~ ATB ~ Greg

When removing the Trigger assembly DO NOT dry fire, it will/can break the hammer springs guide rod !

Hey Ben,
As you cans see I like doing one mag groupings, it show me how everything is doing.

For my barrel/Edgun JSB 18g at 920 fps and JSB 16g at 890-920 fps are 1/4″ ctc 5 shot groups @ 50 yards.
AA 18g at 940 fps and AA 16g at 950-970 fps are 1/4″ ctc 5 shot groups @ 50 yards.

I have AA Falcons but I haven’t tried them yet, most likely I need to dial the hammer spring down.
The gun is still in it’s break-in stages already the fps went up by 10.

I found this nylon bushing at my hardware store and redid the above.
It measures 3/32″OD x 1/8″ID x 1″ long, the actual is .195″ OD x .12″ ID.
The pin is 3mm in diameter and .12″ is very close.

I cut it to 8mm long, used shrink tubing on it to increase the thickness but I didn’t take a pic with it on.

Punched out this pin and install the tube.
Adjusted the trigger screw about 2-3 turns in until it breaked/released at 6 oz.
Cocked and applied the bump test.

I did not measure the original location from the back of the pistol grip to the front of the trigger blade.
But with the tube installed it now measures 3″, perfect for my size hand and trigger reach.
The first stage travel is now about 1/8″ and it can be shorten even further from behind if needed (like Wingman stated above).

With this setup the first stage travel will not engage/affect/pull on the shear.
Hard to explain, but it passes the shear engagement adjustment screws peak contact point.
So the contact point of the adjustment screw lays on the other side of this curve/radius when cocked.

IMO feels a lot better then the out of box adjusted !
Best thing is, it’s not permanent if you don’t like it the tube can be removed.

~ Greg

Shot count so far = 1,800

Test shooting Air Arms Diablo Field Heavy .22 Cal, 5.52mm, 18 Grains verses JSB Match Diabolo Exact Jumbo Heavy .22 Cal, 18.13 Grains.

All one mags = 10 shot grouping at 50 yards shot between light wind breeze, with windflags out at 75, 50 and 25 yards.
I increased the speed from 920 fps to 940 fps with 18g.

AA 18g @ 940 fps, the tin is about 2 years old but IMO still look better than a newly opened tin of JSB.

JSB 18g @ 940 fps.

without the flier.

Dialing down the hammer the other days AA 16g did a bit better at 950-970ish, but I didn’t retrieve the targets.

~ Greg