Q:

New $210 Tuxing 4500psi compact compressor

After much deliberation I have bought a compressor to fill my PCPs and pony bottles.
I was torn between spending decent money on a Bauer JNR or just take a risk on a cheep Chinese job.
The new Altaros booster looked great but it still relies on a regular work shop compressor to operate which would mean I would have to spend more money upgrading my current workshop cheapo or it would soon let me down.

So after searching many cheap Chinese compressors I found this one that is very well priced and fairly new to the market.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PCP-Inflator-Electrical-Air-Compressor-for-airgun-cylinder-High-Pressure-300Bar-4500psi-Paintball-Refilling-110V-220V/32757013722.html

Size L 35cm x W 18cm x H 34cm
Net Weight 17KG
Power 220V-240V 50HZ or 100-130V 60HZ
Motor Power 1.8 KW Pressure :300bar/4500psi
Inflating speed 2800r/min
Noise78DB

Fill an empty 500cc bottle to 300bar in about 5 minutes and direct airgun cylinders topped up from 120bar to 300bar in 2 mins

It boasts a new design water jacket for better cooling than the open tube tube compressors and seems to have some really great reviews so far.
Buyer reviews here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4500PSI-compressor-300bar-Electric-portable-pump/32691757608.html?spm=2114.13010208.99999999.264.AAz6YJ

I had no real need to fill 12ltr dive bottles with a compressor (which Im sure this one will do) so a lightweight will suit my needs.
It will be mainly used to direct fill my PCPs, top up my 500cc backpack bottle from 180 to 300bar and top up my 3ltr pony bottle from 180bar to 240bar.
Between them all I have more than enough air for an outing.
I had some reserves about build quality but it is a very simple unit and I had the seller pack in enough piston seals, O rings and plastic seats to rebuild the thing ten times over for a very reasonable $7 extra.
The Seller was extremely helpful and seems to know his product with full back up service parts available.
Fuxing my Tuxing looks to be very simple and it lends itself to loads of upgrades such as a larger oil/air separator.
I just received a litre of high quality Special Bauer full synthetic breathing air compressor oil which cost me a crazy $70 but there is enough for 4 services. (1000 hour intervals)

The unit arrived in New Zealand from China via TNT in a very speedy 4 days! Currently being held in customs but I hope to see it any day now.
Ill add to my review as I spend some time using it.

My expectations are realistic with any Chinese purchase but the price seemed right on this one.. It is really not much more than a motorised 2 stage hand pump and keeping that in mind the price is very reasonable.
I will be using it for very short intervals not hours on end like the shoe box compressor etc require so wear and tear should be a lot less.







Compressors, tanks and pumps

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Viewing 15 replies - 196 through 210 (of 257 total)

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Because it gets warm. I started with 4L but realized that it got warm FAST. Now I use 8-9L of water and have No problems filling a 500cc and 250cc bottle/tube to 220-230 bar without the cooling water getting warm.

quote jmdesignz2:

Could you post or email me the link to that golden filter? 🙂

second post on page 2

quote Cricket:

I just ordered one, and that golden filter too, will try and make something similar although I barely understand a Word in this post lol. A lot to learn :geekn:

quote Wingman NZ:

My filter turned up and I made a filter element from some Pollycabonate thin wall clear tube and picked up some activated carbon from the local pet shop. It is used in fish tank water filters too. I cut the cotton filter that came with the filter body into shorter lengths and added some silica gel from a desiccant bag that I scored from some jet engine shipping boxes. I will order some of the colour indicator silica gel to mix in too to show when the moister content has peaked.

Could you post or email me the link to that golden filter? 🙂

quote Wingman NZ:

You dont need ice in the water I was just experimenting. One gallon would be too small, you need at least 4 gallons and even then it will benefit from a water change every 15mins if you are doing longer fills.
If you read back through my review you will see that I dont recommend filling any tank from empty larger than 3 litres with this little compressor.

Why does the water need to be changed?

You dont need ice in the water I was just experimenting. One gallon would be too small, you need at least 4 gallons and even then it will benefit from a water change every 15mins if you are doing longer fills.
If you read back through my review you will see that I dont recommend filling any tank from empty larger than 3 litres with this little compressor.

quote jmdesignz2:

Thanks for the additional info. How long to fill a 60 min / 88-97cu ft dive bottle from empty do you think?

How long to top off from 3500 psi?

Do you need to use an ice water bucket or would regular water work ok?

I am thinking of using a gallon jug to reduce spillage chances instead of an open bucket.

Thanks 🙂

It’s to late in the evening to do the maths for me, we use litres and bars over here! but when I charged my 7 litre tank from 180 bar to 280 bar It took about 50 mins of running time but I did rest the compressor every 15 mins. If you are thinking of doing runs like this you would need to change the water if you use only a one gallon jug. I personally think that filling large tanks from empty is pushing it a bit for this compressor. Hope this is of some help.
:smilen:

Thanks for the additional info. How long to fill a 60 min / 88-97cu ft dive bottle from empty do you think?

How long to top off from 3500 psi?

Do you need to use an ice water bucket or would regular water work ok?

I am thinking of using a gallon jug to reduce spillage chances instead of an open bucket.

Thanks 🙂

Mine is still going strong on all the factory fitted O rings so Im impressed. I have new Viton O rings on standby for a rebuild but Im interested to see how many hours the std chinese ones give me.
I pushed mine a bit hard with 35 min run times topping up my big 12 ltr dive bottle and the sump oil got quite dark. Although Im sure it hasnt lost any of its lubricating properties the OCD side of me took over and I decided to change it and take the head off to check out the upper piston rings.
The inside was spotless, no oil on any of the upper parts and no signs of dieseling in the compression chambers. There was no carbon build up anywhere in fact so I think the oil has darkened just from it heating up in the sump. I decided to only run mine for a maximum of 20 mins at a time now before letting it completely cool down, this will keep the oil clearer longer and be much easier on the internals.
Thanks for posting the English manual Cricket, Mine did not get shipped with one. Interesting to see it says dont get the compressor any hotter than 60 deg c on the upper head temp gauge, I haven’t been able to get mine past 42 deg even on long run times. It seems the lower sump will over heat before the water cooled head does. Maybe a better cooling fan would help the bottom end.

Waffling between this Tuxing at $357 delivered to USA + $300-$399 molecular dessicant filter + assorted fittings VS the Carrette 4500 psi at $1199 delivered…

Could the Tuxing be cascaded / daisy chained I wonder?

anyway, I suppose one could buy about 3 Tuxings + filter for about the same as one Carrette…

Thanks man! I will watch that video a couple Times for sure! Luckily my dad is very good with cars and has a whole wall in his garage filled with tools, so I can ask him to help me out if need be.

quote Cricket:

Could you make a guide for the stripping? I am a bit daft when it comes to mechanical stuff. Do I need to drain the oil first, and how do I drain the oil? Screw the cap off and turn the compressor upside down? Also a o-ring list would be great, so I can buy some high quality seals. Thanks!

Hi Cricket, you don’t need to drain oil, have a look at this link. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUwtx-iPlDI&t=189s
The O rings I used were (4) at 2.5 x 14, the others I plan to change (16) at 2.5 x 11, and (2) at 2.5 x 30
If you don’t feel confidant it might be best to ask a friend with mechanical skills to give you a hand.
:smilen:

Could you make a guide for the stripping? I am a bit daft when it comes to mechanical stuff. Do I need to drain the oil first, and how do I drain the oil? Screw the cap off and turn the compressor upside down? Also a o-ring list would be great, so I can buy some high quality seals. Thanks!

Hi all, I am from the UK and I have been using the Tuxing compressor for the last month. There seems to be quite a bit of interest in this little compressor so I have decided to post my experience with it. I run it on top quality fully synthetic and after topping up my 500cc bottle from 170 to 220 bar a number of times I thought I would have a go at topping up my 7ltr dive bottle. It took about 12 mins to add 20 bar to the bottle, as the oil gets very hot if run for to long I decided to let the compressor cool for 30 mins every 20 bar. The bottle was filled from 220 to 280 bar no problem but as I really wanted to give it a real good test I topped up two more bottles belonging to a friend. This is when I encountered a problem it was like a missfire on an engine, time for a strip down. If you have experience with stripping down a small engine this thing is a doddle, first thing I noticed was signs of a small amount of combustion on the high pressure piston but the tiny piston rings looked perfect. After splitting the head the reason for the problem was soon apparent, the two O rings that seal the top of the high pressure cylinder were shredded. The green layer on the O rings had been shredded off and compromising the seal, all other O rings and valves looked fine. After giving everything a good clean I replaced the O rings on the high pressure cylinder with high quality viton O rings. I have a feeling the original O rings were not up to the punishment dealt out by the top end of the high pressure cylinder and had been failing from the start. The compressor sounds a lot smoother and hasn’t missed a beat since the viton O rings have gone in. I have run it for about an hour total since the rebuild and plan to run it for another couple of hours when I will strip it again and replace all the O rings with viton ones, knowing how easy it is to work on, this will be no problem. All in all if you have any mechanical skills at all this compressor is a viable way of filling small tanks and topping up larger ones you just have to keep the run times short as heat in the sump would be a problem, some kind of oil cooler would make a nice little project. If you don’t have the confidence to strip it down then its probably not for you, we all know how dangerous this sort of pressure can be. I will post again with updates, Hope this is of some help.
:smilen:

I have only filled once, a 500cc bottle and My Cricket, No issues with filling but there was a bit of Oil on the filter, but only on the compressor Side, not the gun Side of the filter. Next time I Will run it a bit without load before connecting the bottle to see it that makes a difference. But as for filling a 500cc bottle, it fills it pretty fast.

quote steeldreams007:

This is the compressor that I recommended which a friend bought a few months earlier. It was not branded as Tuxing at the time.

I think, this is a better and improved design compared to the other where the air tubes are exposed outside the pump.

Hey Steel – any further updates on this? Issues or work arounds? Best set up practices?

Viewing 15 replies - 196 through 210 (of 257 total)

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