NOT HAPPY WITH SELPHB VALVE!!!!!
Here is my Selphb valve.
Am I impressed? Am I fuck. After this video I installed the valve and tried to fill. I filled to 2500 psi and tried to release the pressure. Each time I opened the bleed( yes, as quickly as poss’) it all bled out again. Why? Because the oring that seals the tophat is too tight. When you depress the tp, you can feel it rolling the oring over in a ‘click’ type of way. When under pressure, this oring is expanding a little and totally locking the tophat open.
I’m gonna have to get the tp shaved a little to make a decent fit, get the stem replaced and put a smaller return spring in. So for the price of a new valve, all I am actually gonna use of this valve is the valve body and tp(once I modify it to work). What a waste of money and time(including Mam’s who sourced it for me)
Totally gutted.
Try and send it back? After all the problems people have had with getting hold of him etc, I don’t think I’ll bother. I’ll be able to sort it out thanks to Sean and Lang, but why the fuck should I have to?
Let me make this clear. THIS IS NOT A COPY OF A BLODNOB VALVE!! IT IS A POOR ATTEMPT AT BEST. MINE DOES NOT FUNCTION AS IS AND WILL REQUIRE EXTENSIVE WORK TO GET IT GOING.
😥
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I’d be speculating if I said what happened and what the difference is between the CNC brad valve and the Blodnob valve.
I dont beleive there is supposed to be a difference.
Y.N., fair enough. But why didn’t he just use Seans design since it appears to have already had all the bugs worked out? OR call it a “Modified” Blod valve or a design “Similar” to but not exactly like it?
Prototype – “the ultimate test of concept, is the engineers’ final check for design flaws and allows last-minute improvements to be made before larger production runs are ordered”
When I screw up a part… and have to remake it and maybe learn from making the other one so make it a bit quicker and or easier with a slight design change – I dont call the first one scrap waste of time mother f’ing peice of sh….while kicking things across my workshop as I remove it from machine and throw it in the trash.. (well I do all that…too) I call it a “prototype”, LOL
Ok Y.N. Three things, 1. I never meant to imply Mike was defending him. 2. I must not know what “prototype” means. I will look that up as soon as I click submit. 3. Mike I never meant this towards you. I wasn’t “Calling you to the carpet” I just read almost every post relating to these valves and I heard too many excuses for my likeing. Sorry Mike if I came across as rude towards you.
There is a huge difference between some one who can program a computer to run a CNC machine, and a true Machinest who can make a quality part, one at a time.
Trouble with CNC is that if it is wrong, it will be wrong every damed time 👿
The machine doesn’t go thru a learnig curve with each and every part it makes. It’s stupid as Hell. A good Machinest does and always will learn and improve with each part made.
Make them one at a time until ALL of the bug’s are worked out. Not on a CNC for the initial run. You don’t prototype on a CNC!
The typical CNC operator won’t make a pimple on a real Machinest ASS!
Damed simple really!!! 🙄
BULLSHIT!!!!!!!!!!!! Mike I have to call bullshit on this one. IIRC we were told this was a “Copy” of Seans valve. NOT a “Prototype”. If brad would of took the time or known WTF he was doing we wouldn’t have this thread. Seans valve works. Brads seems to be shit. Other than the burst disc and bleed hole (which ARE good ideas) he screwed the pooch. What’s that saying about you get what you pay for…….
I dont think mike’s saying that, certainly isnt defending him – he’s just making a point that brad likely did not bother with a prototype phase is all which would make the ones he sold the actual prototypes as he just jumped from making them to selling them and now some guys are paying for it.
I have one , on my second valve stem. I can get 60 good shots out of it but not the power I was hoping for.
Lets hold up there folks…
I would like to see a virtual show of hands here on how many have had failed Selph valves and how many are using them without any problem as yet
that said I do have one of these that hasnt given me any trouble…yet
back to the business thing… Pab
Was that valve sold as BLODNOB valve?
Or was it sold as some valve somehow similar to blod?
This should answer your question and much more
Well,
back to the business thing… Pab
Was that valve sold as BLODNOB valve?
Or was it sold as some valve somehow similar to blod?
There is a huge difference between some one who can program a computer to run a CNC machine, and a true Machinest who can make a quality part, one at a time.
Trouble with CNC is that if it is wrong, it will be wrong every damed time 👿
The machine doesn’t go thru a learnig curve with each and every part it makes. It’s stupid as Hell. A good Machinest does and always will learn and improve with each part made.
Make them one at a time until ALL of the bug’s are worked out. Not on a CNC for the initial run. You don’t prototype on a CNC!
The typical CNC operator won’t make a pimple on a real Machinest ASS!
Damed simple really!!! 🙄
BULLSHIT!!!!!!!!!!!! Mike I have to call bullshit on this one. IIRC we were told this was a “Copy” of Seans valve. NOT a “Prototype”. If brad would of took the time or known WTF he was doing we wouldn’t have this thread. Seans valve works. Brads seems to be shit. Other than the burst disc and bleed hole (which ARE good ideas) he screwed the pooch. What’s that saying about you get what you pay for…….
Should be pretty cool when you are done… I am guessing it will have a
cannon on it…. Are you going with .22 or .25 cal…? 😀
Thanks guys. 🙂
A base-coat of dark-rust, a coat of Klear floor-polish (I think it’s called Future in the States), rubber-solution stippled on with a sponge, top-coat, q-tip to rub off the rubber, another coat of Klear, a wash of umber oil-paint (very diluted with turps), powders for weathering, that’s pretty much it.
The tracks are after-market metal ones. Base-coat of dark-rust, light-colored powder all over, then a sludge of dark-colored powder mixed with umber oil and turps and mashed well in, let it dry and rub through to the raised bits with emery-paper until the metal shines.
As the Meercat says, “Simples!” 😆
Wow, Lang woke up again… Good to see ya m8.
Heya Mam. 😀
I’ve been working with plastic lately:
http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=42987
How did you get the ultra realistic, steel rusting, paint flaking finish?!?!? That looks awesome!
Pab is that by Manchester? I went there a while ago. Fish n chips wrapped in news print. That was some good shit!
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There wasnt supposed to be…
I am curious what the actual failure rate has been overall. I know there have been several posts regarding breakage
of course, {and this isnt meant to be an excuse} the rest of us have no clue how the rest of the weapon was configured…ie striker weight, striker spring, ect, ect, ect…muchless how many times the valve was cycled prior to failure.
Those of us who purchased these units need to share exactly what was going on when they failed.
I do agree that there is little question that the stem design is inherently weak so lets work on a solution…perhaps they need to be run with a stocker talon striker? Weaker spring?
I just dont want to go through a broken stem…