Q:

Taipan Mutant vs. Edgun Matador R3

According to Wikipedia, the inland taipan is considered to be the most venomous land snake related to the cobra family. Taipans move fast and possess highly neurotoxic venom and other toxic substances, which paralyze victim’s nervous system and clot the blood. Taipans are considered some of the most deadly known snakes. One drop of the inland taipan’s venom can kill up to 100 men (bioweb.uwlax.edu). The inland taipan is shy and rarely attacks. The taipan mutant can even be more deadly based on what you have seen in the mutant turtles created by Kevin Eastman and Peter Laird.

Dman/Jaime and Ernest have posted very positive reviews on the Taipan Mutant – the mighty beast created in the Ukraine. The high air efficiency is intriguing to me, but it remains many mysteries concerning this particular strain of Taipan. Dman finally sent me his beloved Mutant to play with. Thanks Dman!

Here are my thoughts on the Mutant, and I intended to compare it with my “aged” Edgun Matador R3. I have to say it in the front that this is just my personal opinion on the comparison.

Machining: The machining of the Mutant is outstanding, very smooth, polished very well, no sharp edges and corners, and slightly glossy in the metal, outstanding finishing I would say. It looks and feels better than my R3s.

Stock: The quality of the stock is okay (i.e., serve the purpose). The Mutant stock is also well machined and shoulders comfortably for me. My R3 stock looks and feels better than the Mutant in appearance.

Hand Grip: The Mutant grip is very ergonomic and just the right size for my hands. It is very comfortable and no sharp edges. I like it much better than the R3.

Cocking: The lever cocking is butter smooth, effortless and flawless, period. The bolt cocking in my R3 is also very smooth after polishing and lubing the chamber.

Cocking Lever: The lever is ambidextrous. You can swap mutant lever to left or to right, a thoughtful design. R3?

Magazine Indexing: The magazine is very easy to install. It cycles very well but you will need to count the shot to know the last shot or you will need to put a marker/label on the magazine wall to tell where you are at. I had some dry fires without knowing the last shot. I have no experience with the Edgun magazine and its cycling, so no comparison on this.

Single-Shot Tray: The tray is easy to drop in, and very smooth. I don’t know if the single-shot tray is available for the R3M from the factory.

Scope Rail: The rail is very well made. My Burris Signature Z rings fit into it very well. The R3 rail has an angle to accommodate long-range shooting. But I don’t know if the Mutant has the same. I put on my SS scope and sighted it in at 30 yards without any problem.

Trigger: This is one of the best parts of the Mutant. Dman has turned the trigger really well, light, smooth, and crispy break. It is very consistent. This is much better than the R3s I have (both.22 and .25). The Mutant trigger is fully adjustable. Unlike R3, the first and second stage adjustments are independent in the Mutant. The tension for each stage is also adjustable. Did I say it is super smooth? The smoothness of the trigger makes you feel good and enjoyable during shooting. There is a tiny hole beside the trigger adjustment screws. I don’t know what that is for, but I think you can apply a needle drop of glue to that hole to prevent the movement of the screw to ensure the consistency of the trigger. Although I don’t use it, the Mutant trigger has a simple and effective safety. Overall, the Mutant is much superior than the R3 in trigger category.

Speed Consistency: I have shot more than 5 strings at different days and times. Dman adjusted his gun to shoot 880-890 fps, I consistently got 887-890 fps in mean velocity (from 6 string) with 2.0 to 2.7 fps SD and 7 to 13 fps in max spread. The shot-to-shot variation is within 2.0 to 3.0 fps, with majority of them at 2.0 – 2.2 fps. Based on my record, the Mutant is slightly better than my R3 in SD, max spread, and shot-to-shot variation.

Air Efficiency: Dman had 10.4 cc-bar/FPE in his string (see topic on “Meet the Taipan Mutant… update”). I believe he turned down the reg pressure a little bit (?). He tethered the gun with a large tank and closed the tank valve to use the large tank gauge for accuracy purpose. I read off the pressure change directly from the small gauge in the gun, and the calculated air efficiency is between 11.2 to 12.1 cc-bar/FPE (average 11.6 from 6 strings). In general, it is about 1.87 to 2 bar/shot (JSB 18 grain with 885-890 fps). The speed drops at ~118 bars. From 220 bar to 118 bar (or 115 bar in some strings), you will get ~55 shots with consistent velocity. My R3 has air efficiency ~12.2 cc-bar/FPE, which is close to the Mutant, but I have to said the Mutant edges out my R3. On the other hand, the R3 has larger air reservoir, and I can get 68 to 72 shots with 200-bar fill. Concerning the shot count, R3 wins. I don’t know if the Mutant air usage can be further “improved” by changing reg setting, hammer weight/spring, or valve spring…

Sound Report: The loudness is similar to that of R3, the Mutant may be slightly louder because of its high-pitch sound signature. This is very subjective…but the wife also says Mutant is louder.

Shroud: OD is 30.5 mm, shroud has some baffle inserts. The end-cap is a screw-in type, so it gives the possibility of installing an add-on LDC to further reduce the report. It is difficult to install LDC to the R3 without making a new shroud and adding adaptor for the LDC. In terms of the convenience of installing LDC, the Mutant wins.

HST Adjustment: Mutant has an external HST adjuster, very nicely made, easy to adjust and it is very responsive. There is a side screw to prevent the accidental turn of the adjuster. There is no HST preload on the spring so you can reduce the speed to zero if you want it to. In R3, you need to remove the stock to adjust HST, and the adjuster is difficult to turn and the thread of the adjuster is easily damaged by the little set screw (there is improved adjuster in newer version of the R3 and R3M). My R3 .25 came with damaged HST screw.

Air Filling: The fill hole can be closed by turning the cap, a very nice design, which R3 does not have. You can adjust the location of the fill hole in the Mutant. Dman didn’t send me the fill probe because it was not included in his original package. No problem at all because the probe is compatible with the Edgun probe. But the fill speed in the Mutant is kind of slow. I believe the fill speed is adjustable from the air-inlet screw in gauge assembly.

Pressure Gauge: Same as the Edgun air gauge (Kiwa).

Accuracy: This is the most important subject. A nicely made gun without accuracy is like a hamburger without meat. I am not a good shooter, I just wanted to find out what the Mutant is capable of in my hands. I normally shoot with bipods, but I specifically purchased the Caldwell front and rear bags to test Mutant accuracy. Although it is not thorough, at 30 yard one-pellet hole accuracy is achievable by the Mutant (see some groups in the picture). I tested it with different head size of JSB pellets from 5.46 mm to 5.51 mm (~18.1 grain). It appears that the Mutant likes 5.50-5.51 mm better (target #9 and #10). The groups seem to become larger for smaller head size (5.46-5.49 mm, targets #6, #7, and #8). At 50 yards, the Mutant is capable of producing 0.20” to 0.30” groups with 5.48 mm to 5.51 mm head, when I am in the good mood. The 0.3” to 0.4” group is very common (see some groups in picture). Those shootings were done under windy conditions and sometime with rain. The R3 LW barrel is specifically made to use JSB 18.1 pellets, but the spec of JSB pellet keeps changing and is inconsistent, head size from 5.46 mm to 5.53 mm (most recently was 5.47-5.48 mm), thin to thick skirt, different sizes and depths of head-base… which is very annoying and causes many fliers. My R3 only likes the “old-style” JSB (thin skirt, wider but shallower head-base, and 5.50 mm head size). My Edgun is the first generation R3, its barrel might be different from the newer models. Nevertheless, the Mutant is not that picky and much easier to shoot with compared to the R3. I like the Mutant better.

Conclusion: In some aspects, I feel that the Mutant is superior than my R3. Ernest said: “This thing put the Edgun and cricket in the back Seat‼” now I understand what he means. He also said, “1: All the negative things I know about the edgun and crickets you don’t see on the Mutant. 2: All the positive things I see on the Mutant I don’t see them on the edguns or crickets.” I don’t know about the Crickets since I don’t have one, but concerning the Edgun, R3 in my case, I agree with him.

Regards,
Endo

30-yard target:

50-yard target:

Taipan Air Rifles

All Replies

Viewing 15 replies - 181 through 195 (of 475 total)

1 2 3 12 13 14 30 31 32

Endo,

I’ll need to loosen the barrel band. I cannot unscrew the mod, I believe part of the mod is tightened in the barrel band. But looking at my gap, there couldn’t be much in the band. The stock mod is really quiet, but it would be nice to try out others and would add to the length. Will let you guys know shortly.

Bud

Endo, the trigger seems fine, and the gun has no issue with cocking. I’ll do as you say and check the leveling, but what is that (anyway) so I know what I’m looking for? I knew right away when the gun would not cock that I had to return the gap to it’s original width of 1/4 inch. Once I did that, I could cock the gun again, so I tightened everything back up and took a few shots. Seems to be fine. But again, “leveling”?
thank you,
Darryl
PS a reg tester? I’ll look into it.

Bud, REAR is right. if you can remove the shroud adaptor and shroud without unscrewing the barrel clamp, then it would be easy for LDC installation, although the stock shroud/moderator is already very effective. Plus, the longer barrel will increase the speed of pellet. Not that bad at all, although it is only slightly longer.

Darryl, before clamping the barrel clamps, it would be good to check if the trigger can move freely and smoothly. The first stage lever needs to be leveled in the trigger box. Otherwise, the sears won’t engage. What is the total length of your barrel? I bet it would be slightly over 30 cm.

Concerning the reg setting, you are better off getting a reg tester from Dman instead of asking Petr. I also saw the POI change, but don’t know if it is related to the barrel. I need more data on this observation for any meaningful conclusion.

I just tried Dman’s suggestion about moving the action back. He was right about running into the issue of needing to adjust the length of the linkage rod. I was able to move the action back a full 1/8 of an inch (0.125″) but the gun would not cock, and the trigger would not move. I looked at adjusting the trigger, but it was pointless due to the large space at the sear engagement and the maxed out rod travel. So, back to 0.250, and settle for that. I snugged everything up and took a few shots down in my basement. The POI was 1 mil off the POA. but still at the hold-under for indoor shooting (to be expected?). Glass 52% full.
Darryl

Hey Rearsprocket,

Sorry, I missed your post, Thank you! It functions so well that I can live with the longer barrel. The Shroud is still clamped in the barrel band, but I never thought about using a different moderator due to the longer barrel! That is interesting.

Bud

Endo, Dman, Daryl,

Yeah, I’ll live with it. It’s shooting good. I just want to make sure the Mod is screwed all the way onto the barrel. Will let you guy’s know. Thanks guy’s !

Bud

Bud congrats on the shorty, it looks very nice. You know in a way it’s better to have the barrel longer like that, first thing is the actual barrel is in the front rail clamp not the shroud mount, second you can now use any LDC you want with the threads out in front of the rail clamp. I don’t think the inletting in the stock or the trigger bar will allow you to move the receiver back that far. I personally wouldn’t sweat the extra length.

Endo thanks for the information. I can work that out to calculate the usage I’m seeing. The gun seems to be shooting hot still, which probably explains the seeming high air usage. So I simply need to run it across the chronograph, and adjust the HST. I’d asked Petr to check the regulator because of inconsistencies of performance (high Es over one magazine, and a laterally shifting POI). hmmm…glass half full (again)?

If I can move the action back through the bands, then I owe Petr an apology in that regard. Thank you again, Dman.
Darryl

there is a little room to move the rail… but its not enough to get rid of that gap….

Honestly if you don’t mind that your gun is a touch longer than it should and the accuracy is good then who cares… that little gap is just aesthetics.

but if your OCD then i would thing the barrel needs to be trimmed….

only you can make the judgement weather or not its accurate.

When I get a chance, I will take a torx bit and loosen up the front clamp to see if the Moderator is screwed in all the way. I think the barrel is cut long though. Will let you guy’s know.

Bud

Darryl, I can make my shorty with the same gap distance as yours by not completely screwing in the shroud. As Dman said, the 0.1″ difference is nothing, which can be the small variation during cutting the barrel. You can check if the shroud is completely screw in flush with the barrel clamp.

The air usage of my shorty is around 10-11 cc-bar/FPE. I think you were asking how many shots per fill. In this sense, it is around 40-45 shots with ~780 fps, 18.1 gr, from 220 bar to 130 bar. The reg pressure was set to 135 bar by factory.

Bud, I don’t know how your barrel is clamped onto the barrel/air tube clamp. It looks different from others. My barrel (I think same as others) is screwed into the “barrel housing (or sleeve)” of the shroud. So the barrel/air tube clamp can clamp onto the “barrel housing”. Your “barrel housing” looks longer than mine. Or your “barrel housing” is not flush with the barrel clamp of the gun. If it is flushed, then the only way to shorten the gap is to cut the barrel shorter. You can’t adjust that big of gap by moving the clamps. The location of clamps and the receiver/trigger box is fixed in the wood stock. The only way to shorten the gap is to shorten the barrel. Oh, while I was writing, Dman has given some inputs…

Hey Dman,

Don’t have a Caliper, but it looks approximately 12.5″. What are your thoughts regarding accuracy of the barrel? That’s my main concern. It’s supposed to be CZ.

Bud

No…

Basiclly when I assemble a shorty… the shroud adapter should be flush with the front barrel band ( the inside of the barrel band)

That way if they ever need to come apart it makes lining up everything easy.

So you bought yours from peter too…

What is the measurement from the backside of the fatter parter fof the ldc to basiclly the fwd side of where your magazine sits

That will give you a real close measurement without taking it out.

Hey Daryl, Endo, Rear, Dman,

Here is a picture of my shorty and the 3/4 inch gap from the moderator to the barrel band. Dman, do you think I could move the receiver back far enough to close the gap between the moderator and the barrel band?

Bud

If you slide the action back toward the butt…. The you have to also loose the Linkage rod and slide that to the rear…

There isn’t a lot of room to move it but there should be enough. If you can’t get it properly all the way back because the rod is to long you could trim it a little bit….. if you are unsure don’t go trimming it.

Viewing 15 replies - 181 through 195 (of 475 total)

1 2 3 12 13 14 30 31 32
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.