Q:

Taipan Mutant vs. Edgun Matador R3

According to Wikipedia, the inland taipan is considered to be the most venomous land snake related to the cobra family. Taipans move fast and possess highly neurotoxic venom and other toxic substances, which paralyze victim’s nervous system and clot the blood. Taipans are considered some of the most deadly known snakes. One drop of the inland taipan’s venom can kill up to 100 men (bioweb.uwlax.edu). The inland taipan is shy and rarely attacks. The taipan mutant can even be more deadly based on what you have seen in the mutant turtles created by Kevin Eastman and Peter Laird.

Dman/Jaime and Ernest have posted very positive reviews on the Taipan Mutant – the mighty beast created in the Ukraine. The high air efficiency is intriguing to me, but it remains many mysteries concerning this particular strain of Taipan. Dman finally sent me his beloved Mutant to play with. Thanks Dman!

Here are my thoughts on the Mutant, and I intended to compare it with my “aged” Edgun Matador R3. I have to say it in the front that this is just my personal opinion on the comparison.

Machining: The machining of the Mutant is outstanding, very smooth, polished very well, no sharp edges and corners, and slightly glossy in the metal, outstanding finishing I would say. It looks and feels better than my R3s.

Stock: The quality of the stock is okay (i.e., serve the purpose). The Mutant stock is also well machined and shoulders comfortably for me. My R3 stock looks and feels better than the Mutant in appearance.

Hand Grip: The Mutant grip is very ergonomic and just the right size for my hands. It is very comfortable and no sharp edges. I like it much better than the R3.

Cocking: The lever cocking is butter smooth, effortless and flawless, period. The bolt cocking in my R3 is also very smooth after polishing and lubing the chamber.

Cocking Lever: The lever is ambidextrous. You can swap mutant lever to left or to right, a thoughtful design. R3?

Magazine Indexing: The magazine is very easy to install. It cycles very well but you will need to count the shot to know the last shot or you will need to put a marker/label on the magazine wall to tell where you are at. I had some dry fires without knowing the last shot. I have no experience with the Edgun magazine and its cycling, so no comparison on this.

Single-Shot Tray: The tray is easy to drop in, and very smooth. I don’t know if the single-shot tray is available for the R3M from the factory.

Scope Rail: The rail is very well made. My Burris Signature Z rings fit into it very well. The R3 rail has an angle to accommodate long-range shooting. But I don’t know if the Mutant has the same. I put on my SS scope and sighted it in at 30 yards without any problem.

Trigger: This is one of the best parts of the Mutant. Dman has turned the trigger really well, light, smooth, and crispy break. It is very consistent. This is much better than the R3s I have (both.22 and .25). The Mutant trigger is fully adjustable. Unlike R3, the first and second stage adjustments are independent in the Mutant. The tension for each stage is also adjustable. Did I say it is super smooth? The smoothness of the trigger makes you feel good and enjoyable during shooting. There is a tiny hole beside the trigger adjustment screws. I don’t know what that is for, but I think you can apply a needle drop of glue to that hole to prevent the movement of the screw to ensure the consistency of the trigger. Although I don’t use it, the Mutant trigger has a simple and effective safety. Overall, the Mutant is much superior than the R3 in trigger category.

Speed Consistency: I have shot more than 5 strings at different days and times. Dman adjusted his gun to shoot 880-890 fps, I consistently got 887-890 fps in mean velocity (from 6 string) with 2.0 to 2.7 fps SD and 7 to 13 fps in max spread. The shot-to-shot variation is within 2.0 to 3.0 fps, with majority of them at 2.0 – 2.2 fps. Based on my record, the Mutant is slightly better than my R3 in SD, max spread, and shot-to-shot variation.

Air Efficiency: Dman had 10.4 cc-bar/FPE in his string (see topic on “Meet the Taipan Mutant… update”). I believe he turned down the reg pressure a little bit (?). He tethered the gun with a large tank and closed the tank valve to use the large tank gauge for accuracy purpose. I read off the pressure change directly from the small gauge in the gun, and the calculated air efficiency is between 11.2 to 12.1 cc-bar/FPE (average 11.6 from 6 strings). In general, it is about 1.87 to 2 bar/shot (JSB 18 grain with 885-890 fps). The speed drops at ~118 bars. From 220 bar to 118 bar (or 115 bar in some strings), you will get ~55 shots with consistent velocity. My R3 has air efficiency ~12.2 cc-bar/FPE, which is close to the Mutant, but I have to said the Mutant edges out my R3. On the other hand, the R3 has larger air reservoir, and I can get 68 to 72 shots with 200-bar fill. Concerning the shot count, R3 wins. I don’t know if the Mutant air usage can be further “improved” by changing reg setting, hammer weight/spring, or valve spring…

Sound Report: The loudness is similar to that of R3, the Mutant may be slightly louder because of its high-pitch sound signature. This is very subjective…but the wife also says Mutant is louder.

Shroud: OD is 30.5 mm, shroud has some baffle inserts. The end-cap is a screw-in type, so it gives the possibility of installing an add-on LDC to further reduce the report. It is difficult to install LDC to the R3 without making a new shroud and adding adaptor for the LDC. In terms of the convenience of installing LDC, the Mutant wins.

HST Adjustment: Mutant has an external HST adjuster, very nicely made, easy to adjust and it is very responsive. There is a side screw to prevent the accidental turn of the adjuster. There is no HST preload on the spring so you can reduce the speed to zero if you want it to. In R3, you need to remove the stock to adjust HST, and the adjuster is difficult to turn and the thread of the adjuster is easily damaged by the little set screw (there is improved adjuster in newer version of the R3 and R3M). My R3 .25 came with damaged HST screw.

Air Filling: The fill hole can be closed by turning the cap, a very nice design, which R3 does not have. You can adjust the location of the fill hole in the Mutant. Dman didn’t send me the fill probe because it was not included in his original package. No problem at all because the probe is compatible with the Edgun probe. But the fill speed in the Mutant is kind of slow. I believe the fill speed is adjustable from the air-inlet screw in gauge assembly.

Pressure Gauge: Same as the Edgun air gauge (Kiwa).

Accuracy: This is the most important subject. A nicely made gun without accuracy is like a hamburger without meat. I am not a good shooter, I just wanted to find out what the Mutant is capable of in my hands. I normally shoot with bipods, but I specifically purchased the Caldwell front and rear bags to test Mutant accuracy. Although it is not thorough, at 30 yard one-pellet hole accuracy is achievable by the Mutant (see some groups in the picture). I tested it with different head size of JSB pellets from 5.46 mm to 5.51 mm (~18.1 grain). It appears that the Mutant likes 5.50-5.51 mm better (target #9 and #10). The groups seem to become larger for smaller head size (5.46-5.49 mm, targets #6, #7, and #8). At 50 yards, the Mutant is capable of producing 0.20” to 0.30” groups with 5.48 mm to 5.51 mm head, when I am in the good mood. The 0.3” to 0.4” group is very common (see some groups in picture). Those shootings were done under windy conditions and sometime with rain. The R3 LW barrel is specifically made to use JSB 18.1 pellets, but the spec of JSB pellet keeps changing and is inconsistent, head size from 5.46 mm to 5.53 mm (most recently was 5.47-5.48 mm), thin to thick skirt, different sizes and depths of head-base… which is very annoying and causes many fliers. My R3 only likes the “old-style” JSB (thin skirt, wider but shallower head-base, and 5.50 mm head size). My Edgun is the first generation R3, its barrel might be different from the newer models. Nevertheless, the Mutant is not that picky and much easier to shoot with compared to the R3. I like the Mutant better.

Conclusion: In some aspects, I feel that the Mutant is superior than my R3. Ernest said: “This thing put the Edgun and cricket in the back Seat‼” now I understand what he means. He also said, “1: All the negative things I know about the edgun and crickets you don’t see on the Mutant. 2: All the positive things I see on the Mutant I don’t see them on the edguns or crickets.” I don’t know about the Crickets since I don’t have one, but concerning the Edgun, R3 in my case, I agree with him.

Regards,
Endo

30-yard target:

50-yard target:

Taipan Air Rifles

All Replies

Viewing 15 replies - 316 through 330 (of 475 total)

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I would think you don’t really need the dimpling just makes it easier but, just make sure the barrel TP is aligned with breech one.

After torqueing the frame hex bolts I backed out the alignment set screw by 1/2 turn to minimize any possible POI shifting if any.
I don’t think you need to even have the set screw in there once alignment is set and done ?

~ Greg

quote octavius:

quote endothelium:

Petr said in his advertisement that the gun will be sported with barrel made in the Cz Republic, or with CZUB barrel with extra cost. But what I got initially was a Germany/Korean barrel in the gun.Endo

Guys you know what is funny I live near CZ border and I do not know if someone else is producing airgun barrel like CZUB !!! If the barrel is made should be done in CZUB no other producer in CZ doesn’t provide same barrel technology as CZUB!!!

Petr told me the barrels (made in the Czech Republic) use the same manufacturing process as Lothar Walther barrels. I found out LW uses the button-rifling method. here’s a link to the three major rifling processes: http://dailycaller.com/2014/04/21/explained-the-three-types-of-custom-rifle-barrels/
The sample I had came with a tight choke as described elsewhere. It too has the retaining dimple out of alignment with the transfer port. I wonder if JB-Weld can be used to fill in these off-aligned dimples before drilling a proper one? I imagine care would have to be taken when using this product for that purpose (to ensure the barrel will still fit smoothly in the action). see here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/J-B_Weld I don’t think misalignment issues would exist with a Listone barrel purchased from Dman.
Darryl
PS there’s a lot of information about barrels out there, so searching can be rewarded with lots of info.
http://www.lothar-walther.com/454.php
http://www.quackenbushairguns.com/Airgun_barrels.htm <best explanation of barrel making for airguns

quote endothelium:

Petr said in his advertisement that the gun will be sported with barrel made in the Cz Republic, or with CZUB barrel with extra cost. But what I got initially was a Germany/Korean barrel in the gun.Endo

Guys you know what is funny I live near CZ border and I do not know if someone else is producing airgun barrel like CZUB !!! If the barrel is made should be done in CZUB no other producer in CZ doesn’t provide same barrel technology as CZUB!!!

Endo and Dman,

I bought it from Peter. I was just hoping we had some kind of identification as to know what barrel it truly is. I don’t have a scope for it yet, but shot a few pellets through it to make sure it works. I can tell you, it feels way better than my Prod! I’ll let you guy’s know shortly how accurate it is.

Bud

Endo,

I could say my CZ made barrel is shooting much better than the made in Germany barrel. So far…..

I would love to buy a listone barrel to compare it with the CZ made barrel. I’d buy it for insurance purposes. I would have gotten rid of the mutant short if it were not for the great consistency, quietness, and short length. Also, 30 plus shots for such a small thing is great. Especially shooting at close to 25 ftlbs. Oh yeah, the trigger is the bomb as well..

Even with the made in Germany barrel, I never considered getting rid of it. Just too many positives. I’m glad I was patient.. However, I still want to try a listone…

gabe

Your probably right Secoda. Once you go short…. well you know :winkn:

Bud, there is no mark on the barrel. Petr said in his advertisement that the gun will be sported with barrel made in the Cz Republic, or with CZUB barrel with extra cost. But what I got initially was a Germany/Korean barrel in the gun. I asked him for a barrel replacement since the Germany/Korean barrel didn’t shoot well. So, I received the replacement barrel just two days ago. I really don’t know what kind of barrel it is, and where it is made. I think only Petr knows… What I know is that the TP is not drilled correctly in this unknown (CZ made?) barrel and it might cause the blow back I have experienced. And the accuracy is not much better than the fake Germany barrel.

I heard that the Mutant manufacturer has sent the CZ replacement barrels to the dealer for the guns with Germany barrel. If your gun has Germany barrel originally, then you should ask your dealer for the factory CZ barrel replacement. I have asked Petr to replace my existing barrel with CZ stock barrel since my gun had a Germany barrel.

Make the story short…no, there is no mark on my current barrel, and I don’t know the “real name” of the barrel. As Dman asked, whom did you purchase the shorty from?

Endo

budlee who you buy it from?

Hi Endo,

Do you see any markings on the CZ to know it’s a CZ? I just got my Short delivered (literally), it’s supposed to have a CZ barrel on it, but can’t tell. I don’t see “Made in Germany” on the barrel either.

Bud

SECoda, glad to hear your baby mutant is coming…I really hope you don’t have any issues with the barrel. Keep us posted.

Gabe, based on my records, the “CZ made” barrel from TGAG was shooting, at the same HST, ~10 fps slower than the German/Korea barrel. I did some target shooting with the “CZ made” barrel, but it didn’t impress me. It performed not much batter than the German/Korea barrel at 30 yards. The chambering is really hard, especially the last push.

I believe Petr bought lots mutants without barrel then he fit his own barrels (CZ made or CZUB) to the gun. So, the problem is how he machined the barrel. The gun itself has no issues. I have sent Petr an email to let him know the barrel problems and waiting for his response. My Listone barrel should be here soon.

The problems with the airgun industry are global and not just eastern Europe or Russia. Even the few American companies have plenty of problems and are slow to fix them.

I have seen half a dozen local friends try to leave the bullpup/carbine market back to long guns over the last 3-4 years. None made it for long. It doesn’t hurt to flush the hand (like in a game of Scrabble) once in a while. I think I will have owned 17 different PCPs at one time or another once my Short Mutant arrives and am down to 7. 😉

After dabbling back with a few long guns a few years ago (Daystate Air Ranger and an AA S510) I returned to the dark side happily. I have found about the 22-27″ length and low weight to be about perfect for most of my varmint and pest past time. I still have a 30 cal for the biggin’s. I guess a paper puncher would have some different preferences. Good luck.

Endo,

I just checked my mutant and the set screw which secures the barrel to the breech is flush or not protruding. I was about to take my replacement barrel off to check if the transfer port and dimple were 180* but I decided not to because I remember checking the alignment and it looked okay to me. I’m not saying it is 100% okay but I’m fine with it based on how she is shooting.

I believe if the TP and dimple are not located properly, then the TP will be partially blocked. As a result, the airflow will be restricted and pellet velocity will be decreased. If you chronied your gun with the old barrel/pellet combo and compare it with the new barrel/pellet combo, and the new barrel/pellet combo is slower, then your new barrel’s TP is restricting air flow. This is assuming you used the same pellet of course. If this is the case, you will need to have the dimple relocated which will mean the dimple will be an oblong shape bc of the combo of the new and old dimples. One positive outcome is that you will be able to tune speed by rotating the barrel left or right. So now you can affect velocity three ways by adjusting the hammer spring, the regulator, and the barrel. I know this is not how it was designed but I’m just looking at your situation optimistically. If I were in your shoes, I would ask for a replacement on your replacement barrel. Make them work for you. I would also be frustrated. I feel you bro.

As for me, I think it will be a long time before I buy an other Eastern European airgun. Too much BS going on In their industry.

Off topic: I’m thinking about going back to long guns. Perhaps a RAW or other US made gun..,

Gabe

Great thread. I just read the entire thing for the first time and may have to reread some of it. I should have my Shorty Mutant by early next week. The walnut stock might be a wee bit longer. 😛

Let the fun being. :7:

Endo, I’ll keep you posted and I’ll be sure to check the alignment of the dimple with the TP. Fingers crossed for a good result.
Darryl

Darryl, that is great…shorty is coming soon. What did you ordered? German/Korea barrel, CZUB barrel or CZ made barrel? Please keep us posted. I am really curious what you will get. Hopefully, it is better.

Dman, I don’t know what you mean. Do you mean total length (30.2 mm), or the insert for receiver? I have the measurements for German/Korea barrel. The insert is 22.2 or 22.3 mm, and the “CZ made” barrel from Petr is 22.2 mm. I guess it is in right length since I don’t have the stock (real factory stock) barrel for comparison. It seems that the problem is fixable. I will send the barrel to you, and I will also get a Listone barrel from you… I am tired of this barrel saga.

Some more info here. I checked if the TP is aligned with the dimple (in an opposite side). Here is what I found. I inserted a plastic rod to the TP as a line of index to see if it aligns with the dimple. As you can see from the picture, the dimple is off to the left. Well… I don’t know what to say. I saw a marker line on the wall to mark the location of the dimple, and it is not even align with the TP. I just wondered if Petr (or someone else) did the machining (drilled the TP and dimple) by “eyeballing”. Well, I really don’t know what to say…I have to stop here to calm myself down. 🙁

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