Q:

Taipan Mutant vs. Edgun Matador R3

According to Wikipedia, the inland taipan is considered to be the most venomous land snake related to the cobra family. Taipans move fast and possess highly neurotoxic venom and other toxic substances, which paralyze victim’s nervous system and clot the blood. Taipans are considered some of the most deadly known snakes. One drop of the inland taipan’s venom can kill up to 100 men (bioweb.uwlax.edu). The inland taipan is shy and rarely attacks. The taipan mutant can even be more deadly based on what you have seen in the mutant turtles created by Kevin Eastman and Peter Laird.

Dman/Jaime and Ernest have posted very positive reviews on the Taipan Mutant – the mighty beast created in the Ukraine. The high air efficiency is intriguing to me, but it remains many mysteries concerning this particular strain of Taipan. Dman finally sent me his beloved Mutant to play with. Thanks Dman!

Here are my thoughts on the Mutant, and I intended to compare it with my “aged” Edgun Matador R3. I have to say it in the front that this is just my personal opinion on the comparison.

Machining: The machining of the Mutant is outstanding, very smooth, polished very well, no sharp edges and corners, and slightly glossy in the metal, outstanding finishing I would say. It looks and feels better than my R3s.

Stock: The quality of the stock is okay (i.e., serve the purpose). The Mutant stock is also well machined and shoulders comfortably for me. My R3 stock looks and feels better than the Mutant in appearance.

Hand Grip: The Mutant grip is very ergonomic and just the right size for my hands. It is very comfortable and no sharp edges. I like it much better than the R3.

Cocking: The lever cocking is butter smooth, effortless and flawless, period. The bolt cocking in my R3 is also very smooth after polishing and lubing the chamber.

Cocking Lever: The lever is ambidextrous. You can swap mutant lever to left or to right, a thoughtful design. R3?

Magazine Indexing: The magazine is very easy to install. It cycles very well but you will need to count the shot to know the last shot or you will need to put a marker/label on the magazine wall to tell where you are at. I had some dry fires without knowing the last shot. I have no experience with the Edgun magazine and its cycling, so no comparison on this.

Single-Shot Tray: The tray is easy to drop in, and very smooth. I don’t know if the single-shot tray is available for the R3M from the factory.

Scope Rail: The rail is very well made. My Burris Signature Z rings fit into it very well. The R3 rail has an angle to accommodate long-range shooting. But I don’t know if the Mutant has the same. I put on my SS scope and sighted it in at 30 yards without any problem.

Trigger: This is one of the best parts of the Mutant. Dman has turned the trigger really well, light, smooth, and crispy break. It is very consistent. This is much better than the R3s I have (both.22 and .25). The Mutant trigger is fully adjustable. Unlike R3, the first and second stage adjustments are independent in the Mutant. The tension for each stage is also adjustable. Did I say it is super smooth? The smoothness of the trigger makes you feel good and enjoyable during shooting. There is a tiny hole beside the trigger adjustment screws. I don’t know what that is for, but I think you can apply a needle drop of glue to that hole to prevent the movement of the screw to ensure the consistency of the trigger. Although I don’t use it, the Mutant trigger has a simple and effective safety. Overall, the Mutant is much superior than the R3 in trigger category.

Speed Consistency: I have shot more than 5 strings at different days and times. Dman adjusted his gun to shoot 880-890 fps, I consistently got 887-890 fps in mean velocity (from 6 string) with 2.0 to 2.7 fps SD and 7 to 13 fps in max spread. The shot-to-shot variation is within 2.0 to 3.0 fps, with majority of them at 2.0 – 2.2 fps. Based on my record, the Mutant is slightly better than my R3 in SD, max spread, and shot-to-shot variation.

Air Efficiency: Dman had 10.4 cc-bar/FPE in his string (see topic on “Meet the Taipan Mutant… update”). I believe he turned down the reg pressure a little bit (?). He tethered the gun with a large tank and closed the tank valve to use the large tank gauge for accuracy purpose. I read off the pressure change directly from the small gauge in the gun, and the calculated air efficiency is between 11.2 to 12.1 cc-bar/FPE (average 11.6 from 6 strings). In general, it is about 1.87 to 2 bar/shot (JSB 18 grain with 885-890 fps). The speed drops at ~118 bars. From 220 bar to 118 bar (or 115 bar in some strings), you will get ~55 shots with consistent velocity. My R3 has air efficiency ~12.2 cc-bar/FPE, which is close to the Mutant, but I have to said the Mutant edges out my R3. On the other hand, the R3 has larger air reservoir, and I can get 68 to 72 shots with 200-bar fill. Concerning the shot count, R3 wins. I don’t know if the Mutant air usage can be further “improved” by changing reg setting, hammer weight/spring, or valve spring…

Sound Report: The loudness is similar to that of R3, the Mutant may be slightly louder because of its high-pitch sound signature. This is very subjective…but the wife also says Mutant is louder.

Shroud: OD is 30.5 mm, shroud has some baffle inserts. The end-cap is a screw-in type, so it gives the possibility of installing an add-on LDC to further reduce the report. It is difficult to install LDC to the R3 without making a new shroud and adding adaptor for the LDC. In terms of the convenience of installing LDC, the Mutant wins.

HST Adjustment: Mutant has an external HST adjuster, very nicely made, easy to adjust and it is very responsive. There is a side screw to prevent the accidental turn of the adjuster. There is no HST preload on the spring so you can reduce the speed to zero if you want it to. In R3, you need to remove the stock to adjust HST, and the adjuster is difficult to turn and the thread of the adjuster is easily damaged by the little set screw (there is improved adjuster in newer version of the R3 and R3M). My R3 .25 came with damaged HST screw.

Air Filling: The fill hole can be closed by turning the cap, a very nice design, which R3 does not have. You can adjust the location of the fill hole in the Mutant. Dman didn’t send me the fill probe because it was not included in his original package. No problem at all because the probe is compatible with the Edgun probe. But the fill speed in the Mutant is kind of slow. I believe the fill speed is adjustable from the air-inlet screw in gauge assembly.

Pressure Gauge: Same as the Edgun air gauge (Kiwa).

Accuracy: This is the most important subject. A nicely made gun without accuracy is like a hamburger without meat. I am not a good shooter, I just wanted to find out what the Mutant is capable of in my hands. I normally shoot with bipods, but I specifically purchased the Caldwell front and rear bags to test Mutant accuracy. Although it is not thorough, at 30 yard one-pellet hole accuracy is achievable by the Mutant (see some groups in the picture). I tested it with different head size of JSB pellets from 5.46 mm to 5.51 mm (~18.1 grain). It appears that the Mutant likes 5.50-5.51 mm better (target #9 and #10). The groups seem to become larger for smaller head size (5.46-5.49 mm, targets #6, #7, and #8). At 50 yards, the Mutant is capable of producing 0.20” to 0.30” groups with 5.48 mm to 5.51 mm head, when I am in the good mood. The 0.3” to 0.4” group is very common (see some groups in picture). Those shootings were done under windy conditions and sometime with rain. The R3 LW barrel is specifically made to use JSB 18.1 pellets, but the spec of JSB pellet keeps changing and is inconsistent, head size from 5.46 mm to 5.53 mm (most recently was 5.47-5.48 mm), thin to thick skirt, different sizes and depths of head-base… which is very annoying and causes many fliers. My R3 only likes the “old-style” JSB (thin skirt, wider but shallower head-base, and 5.50 mm head size). My Edgun is the first generation R3, its barrel might be different from the newer models. Nevertheless, the Mutant is not that picky and much easier to shoot with compared to the R3. I like the Mutant better.

Conclusion: In some aspects, I feel that the Mutant is superior than my R3. Ernest said: “This thing put the Edgun and cricket in the back Seat‼” now I understand what he means. He also said, “1: All the negative things I know about the edgun and crickets you don’t see on the Mutant. 2: All the positive things I see on the Mutant I don’t see them on the edguns or crickets.” I don’t know about the Crickets since I don’t have one, but concerning the Edgun, R3 in my case, I agree with him.

Regards,
Endo

30-yard target:

50-yard target:

Taipan Air Rifles

All Replies

Viewing 15 replies - 376 through 390 (of 475 total)

1 2 3 25 26 27 30 31 32

Nice make it easier mod Endo !

I found this 5/8″ cap plug at my local hardware store ……… they also come in a variety of different colors too.
Also it’s universal, it can be used to plug evil motivators u know what ? :winkn:

~ Greg

Recently, many bashings and attacks on the Mutant, especially in the other forum, have been vigorously discussed. I bought the Mutant from Dman in May last year and wrote a review, comparing the Mutant and Matador R3, in the first page of this thread. I am the end user, If the gun is good, I would say it is good. If the gun is substandard, I would say it is substandard, as simple as that. I like the Mutant. It is very well machined, quiet, easy to shoot, and accurate. I use this gun to do my routine “yard work” by trimming off some small twigs (< 0.2” diameter) far out 50 yards…one shot one kill, period. Oh, I forgot to mention, I have sent out a check to preorder a Baby Mutant, and also I am eagerly waiting for the debut of .25 Mutant in next few months. I think I have said enough…

Let’s go back to the Mutant mod. I feel the hex screw that is used to anchor the action (from the pistol grip) is not long enough (6 cm) for me to see the screw head inside the dark hole. So, when I want to take the action out, I have to keep probing the allen key to find the head slot. Or I need to turn the gun around facing the light to see the screw head. In other words, the screw is fixed deep in the hole and not easy for me to find the head slot with my old eyes.

The length of a 9-cm M6 screw is perfect for my need. So, I put a hex flange nylon Insert locking nut to the long screw as a stopper at the length of the original screw. The flange is just the right size for the wood slot in the stock hole. It has a larger surface area to hold the screw onto the wood. Now, I can see the screw head easily from the hole and I don’t need to keep probing the allen key to find the head slot any more.

Warning: I think a particular group of people and/or individual with evil motivations may say the stock screw is “not accessible” in the Mutant and/or make a video to show that this is a significant “defect” of the gun. LOL…

Regards,
Endo

Endo, ignore my “design” post. just a flashback to some other gun I had. that’s all. As I responded to Dman, nothing going on with the mutant to prevent me from wanting one (with a CZ barrel). :mrgreen:
Darryl

Darryl,

No, according to Dman, Dmitriy didn’t explain the cause and he just said “turn that screw CCW by one turn” something like that, and he is right on the money. LOL. He certainly knows what is going on.

I am not qualified to say or comment on redesigning the Mutant. This is the best and smoothest trigger I have ever seen. In fact, I know what caused that: My itching fingers just wanted to fuxing up those screws…LOL. As Keyser said, “That is probably why Dmitriy designed the trigger to have sear adjustment.”

In my opinion, the shape of the insert (think about the wing of the airplane) that Dmitriy designed can facilitate the downward movement of the insert if the airflow is on the surface of the insert and the angle of the insert is right (more horizontal or downward). I think the angle of my insert was more toward upward and the 2nd stage screw tension might be too strong, plus little room for the insert to deflect downward. Also, the sear tensioner and linkage tensioner might be too weak to push down that little insert. All of these might cause the upward movement of the insert for sear re-engagement. All of these are related and connected and they need to work/adjust in unison for proper trigger function. So, nothing is broken or failed, it just needs to be readjusted like all mechanical parts.

I don’t think there is an easy way to eliminate the air blasting out from the valve-stem tunnel. I don’t know if Dmitriy is utilizing it and turning the air-stream to in favor of, or facilitate, the trigger mechanism. If it is, then he is creative and smart.

Again, all are my speculations…LOL.

Did I say my Mutant is accurate? This is a statement not a speculation. 😉

Dman, I am happy with the Mutant, and you have been very responsive and the service is the first rate…
Can we be lucky enough to have you as our dealer? This is just a thought, but a serious one… :8:

Regards,
Endo

Dman,
I understand. I didn’t mean to sound as though I were hitting the panic button over the design. Endo’s issue does not prevent me from wanting a Mutant Short (with a proper CZ barrel :winkn: ).
Darryl

quote darryl:

Endo, have you sent your speculation to Dmitri? It seems it’s more an astute observation that needs to be verified by someone else (Dmittri). Good thinking. Good luck!Do you think your observation might be solved,if true by a redesign?
Darryl

Darryl…

The air that endo is feeling, is from where the valve stem goes through the Bushing. most airguns use the same design. and there is really no way to prevent the air..

I was thinking maybe the tolerances between the stem and the bushing maybe a little looser on his…. I have that to speak to dimitiry some more on this to fig out exactly why he can feel the air and no one else does.

anyhow about that redesign… Yeh i wouldn’t even go there at all.. thE trigger on this mutant is IMHO the best bull pup trigger out there…. and it beats out 90% of long guns out there.

I pulled my cover plate to look at the components when endo first said something to me, i also noticed lead shot on the cover…… i don’t notice a blip of air .

Either way since i sold him the gun I’m gonna make him happy and we will get to the bottom of it.

Endo, have you sent your speculation to Dmitri? It seems it’s more an astute observation that needs to be verified by someone else (Dmittri). Good thinking. Good luck!Do you think your observation might be solved,if true by a redesign?
Darryl

Thanks Keyser and Darryl.

I have been thinking of the possible cause of sear re-engagement during shot. Several weeks ago, I told Dman that I felt a small puff of air in the face during shot. So, I replaced the probe o-ring. But it does not eliminate the puff of air, although I only occasionally feel it now. I think in the cold weather, you skin is more sensitive to the air blowing. I felt that the air was from the trigger box. So, I opened the trigger box plate and found there was a sign of air blast on the plate (see Picture 1). There were two major marks of lead-dust on the plate and some others were more diffused if you look at it carefully.

I was trying to locate the path of the air blast. I utilized the oil-marks on the plate to label the location of the brass bushing/sleeve (two of them) and also lined up the pivot points with its oil mark on the plate (see blue lines). This helps me to locate the blasts in relation to the trigger parts. The two major blasts are marked with the blue and red dot, which are at the area surrounding the little insert. This corresponds and coincides with what Dmitriy mentioned on the adjustment of that little insert to solve the problem of automatic sear re-engagement.

I think that the air blast in the trigger box during shot may lift up the “insert,” which pushes up the “upper sear” to engage with the “lower sear.” The location of the air blast is exactly at the spot between the insert. So, the air will push the insert either up or down if the insert is moveable. In this case, the 2nd stage travel screw can be adjusted to control the room for the insert. Turning-in the travel stop screw would reduce not only the 2nd stage travel length but also the room for the insert to move downward, vice versa. In other words, the insert would deflect upward because its downward movement is prevented by the screw if there isn’t enough space. During air blast (i.e., firing a shot), the insert is favorably moved upward and cause sear re-engagement. So, this behavior might be eliminated by making more room at the lower part of the insert – as suggested by Dmitriy. Turning the 2nd stage travel screw out could make more room for the insert and also the layout of the insert would be more flat (horizontal). This can also help to reduce the upward movement of the insert and the occurrence of “auto-engagement of sears” during shot.

This is just my speculation…LOL.

Regards,
Endo

Endo I agree with Keyser. An excellent post. I’m looking to take the Mutant plunge sooner rather than later. It’s good to know about issues and solutions. Anything else of particular interest as it relates to abnormal behavior (I mean the gun of course!). Anyone?
Darryl

Endo first let me say EXCELLENT post! I took screen shots of this post to save on my computer.

My guess why this would happen is just like any mechanical thing sometimes things need adjustment. That is probably why Dmitriy designed the trigger to have sear adjustment.

This is an update on my standard length .22 Taipan Mutant. I have put her through more than 10 tins of JSB Heavy.

This gun has been with me all the time, and I really enjoy her performance.
Although the Matador comes along, for sentimental reason, she always sits in the back seat.

Recently, the Mutant was sick. I couldn’t get the hammer to re-engage after shot. This happened after every several (5-6) shots. Then it got more severe in every 2-3 shots, and became mostly every shot. I opened the trigger-box plate and found the sears were engaged (without cocking), which prevented the hammer engagement. Although this does not pose any danger, it was annoying because I have to pull the trigger to disengage the sears first then cock the lever to engage the sears and the hammer for next shot.

When the mutant was healthy, in the process of cocking, the sears are engaged (see green circle in Picture 1), and you can see that the hammer (on the top) engages with the upper sear at the end of cocking (red circle in Picture 1). The “hammer anchor” (see red circle in Picture 1) catches the hammer (under hammer spring tension) and the gun is ready to fire. When you pull the trigger, the sears are disengaged and at the same time the upper sear is pushed downward (by a spring in the sear-tensioner screw and the gravity) to release the hammer. The hammer hits the valve stem to open the valve for the regulated air to rush out. This is what it is supposed to be.

When the issue showed up, I opened the panel on the trigger box and this is what you will see (Picture 2). The sears are already engaged (green circle in Picture 2). When you pull the lever trying to cock (i.e., engaging the hammer), the lever would not go all the way out because the “hammer anchor” (red circle in Picture 2) on the upper sear prevents (or blocks) the hammer moving outward (see red and white circles in Picture 2). In other words, you are not able to cock the gun to engage the hammer once the sears were engaged. So, the sears are engaged “automatically” right after the shot (or during the shot), and this prevents the upper sear to catch the hammer. To resolve this, I have to pull the trigger to release the sear, this will allow me to cock the gun again (to engage both sears and hammer). I found no problem at all with dry firing, but the problem occurs after shooting with pellets. This happened every 2-3 shots and then almost right after every shot lately.

I can reproduce the situation by pushing downward on the “sear-hammer linkage lever” (see green arrow in Picture 3). This will lift up the upper sear. The lower sear will move leftward by a spring in the screw, which controls 2nd stage tension (see Picture 1). These movements engage the sears. Another way to engage the sear is to push upward (see red arrow in Picture 3) that little piece of “insert” (mark with * in Pictures 1, 2, and 3) between upper and lower sears.

I have no idea how could this “automatic sear-engagement” happen during the shot or right after the shot.

Solution: Dman asked Dmitriy (manufacturer) what to do to solve the issue. He said: turn the screw (2nd stage travel screw) out (CCW) by one turn (see Picture 1).

I turned the screw out by ½ trun first, and it indeed reduced the symptom (1 failure in ~30 rounds). Then I turned that screw out another ¼ turn and also increased (turn-in) the “sear tensioner” screw by ¼ turn to increase the tension of upper sears to let it “sit” more firmly on that little insert. No cocking failure >30 rounds. I never thought that this little insert could have such significant impact on the sear and hammer engagement. Giving a little more room to that little guy seems to be important for the action of cocking, in addition to the increase of 2nd stage travel.

So, don’t panic, if your Mutant misbehaves all of a sudden like this. This is a simple fix. It only takes you a few seconds to adjust the screw. Put Vitra-tite on those screws might be a good idea.

I’ve been trying to figure out how could this auto sear-engagement happen….Any explanation?

Anyway, thank you D&D (Dman and Dmitriy) for the help.

Regards,
Endo

Picture 1:

Picture 2

Picture 3

No chance on staying cool. :roll:. Thanks for your offer. I’m about to make another order for orings and I wanted to grab a few for the bin. Might as well order everything at the same time. Thank you Dman for the dimensions.

Dman, you are fast…

Twisted, I can send you some, PM me if you need it.
Keep cool…

Regards,
Endo

quote twistedlead:

Hey Endo. Do you remember the size of the polyurethane orings in the regulator. Just wanted to order some for the next time I open it up.

6.07 x 1.78 mm

2.9 x 1.78 mm

Hey Endo. Do you remember the size of the polyurethane orings in the regulator. Just wanted to order some for the next time I open it up.

Viewing 15 replies - 376 through 390 (of 475 total)

1 2 3 25 26 27 30 31 32
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.