MATADOR R3M on it’s way to Norway, – arrived finally….
Yes I know……. 😳 😳 😳
I’ll try not to start another mammut thread like the one here:
http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=19488
– but yes, I have taken the plunge and ordered (and paid for) a brand new R3M std. walnut cal.22. As there are no Edgun representatives in Norway, I have been dealing with Ed directly……
I also ordered a multishot breech to fit on my single shot R3s…….. 😉
So now the wait begins……. 😥
But this time I am at least prepared for the worst. I don’t expect to get it until towards late autumn………
I’ll keep you updated though, and again shipping is the most difficult issue I think………
We’ll see………
Cheers
Trygve 😀
All Replies
Hi Mike,
All the details of my configuration are stated just below the image above. Yes it is a March, and yes I love it for my purpose. I have also been informed of the 3-24×52 arriving in 2014 and I’m looking forward to testing it once it’s here. I somehow hope it isn’t that much better as that could potentially have some seriously negative effects on my plastic cards. They’re already struggling as it is…. 😳 😳 😳
Cheers
Trygve 😀
Secoda,
in respect to the .25 R3M and the way the probe is being sealed, one being dual probe Orings and the other being a copper breech seal. Is one superior over the other. Reason I ask is I just noticed this on my new received R3M as having the copper ring as opposed to my R3 which has dual probe Oring.
Zoco,
I too am very satisfied at present with my .25 R3M. The mag is working flawlessly, a little tight upon insertion but just takes a little finesse from time to time but suspect this to smooth up in time. I don’t find the bolt as an issue that has been brought forth by others. Perhaps it’s just me and not giving a lot of thought to it and just enjoying it. I pretty much just caulk it drive it home and shoot, To think after a break in period and a lube tune it will be even better is all the sweeter.
Zoco,
Can’t read the name on that scope of yours but it looks like a March and if it is that is the one scope I consider the ultimate for air gunning. Of course I’m not fortunate enough to be able to consider one but glad others can. In Case you haven’t heard, I believe in April of 2014, March will be offering the (3-24×42 FFP tacticle ) model with a 52 front bell and still in a very light and compact package. 12.6” and approx 23 oz if memory serves me right. Cheers, Mike
I agree, Teflon sounds good. A thin coating on the mag should make a lot of difference. Probably best with a non greasy variant ??? Greasy products have a tendency to accumulate dust and friends, -and I don’t want that…
What about dry Graphite as an alternative on the mag/mag slot walls once the gun has been broken in ????
Thanks for your help !!
Cheers
Trygve 😀
Hoot you silly old fool.. every one knows emu dont swim.. The fly here in large flocks from Aussie.. some flocks are so large they black out our skys for a week.. Ive yet to see one explode but one did implode a 747s port side engine after it was unfotunatly inhaled into the turbine….
Google New Zealand Moa.. the biggest bird to walk this planet.. hence my .30cal build
Really Uncle, you shouldn’t drink the gun oil…
Dr. 👿
Focus! Focus! Topic….stay on topic….
Incidentally….
Anyone tried that “Emu Oil” from Australia? You can only buy it on TV….
I think there are Emu’s in New Zealand! They are excellent swimmers, and swim over to NZ from Auzzie-land.
Wingman, have you ever seen one “diesel”, or hear of one exploding when it gets hot? Just wondering?
When it comes to pellet lube I recommend you to try to clean your pellets, preferably in an ultrasonic washer or other gentle way of cleaning, and then relube with a very light coat of ballistol.
Another thought on the subject, during the winter time I’m cutting down on the use of lubricant because of the low temperature thickens the lube and the friction increases instead of lowering and low performance and inconsistency appears.
A product I think could benefit us airgun shooters is PSL from x1r.com it sounds like yet another snake oil or something from the homeshopping channel endorsed by an astronaut BUT IT WORKS! I have been using it professionally at work as well as in my engines both for racing and leisure. A light coat on the pellets would help to reduce fouling and therefore increase consistency and hopefully accuracy, will test when spring comes with warmer weather.
Looked at x1r.com an they have a product for shooters that claims to do just what I wanted to accomplish but I haven’t tried thay one, my money is on the PSL which I have available and if my hunch is correct will do all of the above and then some.
Sorry for the looong post and don’t foe me just yet.
Best holiday wishes
Dr. 👿
Has anyone heard anything about that annoying Dr. Evil ? I have Foed him so i can’t see his Posts any longer. Thank God…
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2. This POS iPhone sucks though …
@Zoco, Wingman beat me to it, orings do like other things than silicone but it’s the media that the oring is sealing against that can be a bit pickie. Teflon or PTFE works very well and is found in many products but one in particular that I found to be very good is Veidecs either Flex lube an oil with PTFE or there White grease a lithium based grease fortified with PTFE which is extremely good to smooth things out and a match made in heaven for orings.
When it comes to pellet lube I recommend you to try to clean your pellets, preferably in an ultrasonic washer or other gentle way of cleaning, and then relube with a very light coat of ballistol.
Another thought on the subject, during the winter time I’m cutting down on the use of lubricant because of the low temperature thickens the lube and the friction increases instead of lowering and low performance and inconsistency appears.
A product I think could benefit us airgun shooters is PSL from x1r.com it sounds like yet another snake oil or something from the homeshopping channel endorsed by an astronaut BUT IT WORKS! I have been using it professionally at work as well as in my engines both for racing and leisure. A light coat on the pellets would help to reduce fouling and therefore increase consistency and hopefully accuracy, will test when spring comes with warmer weather.
Looked at x1r.com an they have a product for shooters that claims to do just what I wanted to accomplish but I haven’t tried thay one, my money is on the PSL which I have available and if my hunch is correct will do all of the above and then some.
Sorry for the looong post and don’t foe me just yet.
Best holiday wishes
Dr. 👿
It deteriorated to a common ghetto brawl months ago as the shipment was delayed and nerves frayed. It is just starting to recover. MG was trashing all of the posts so we started using PMs. 😆 Now we all have blocked MGs posts as a Foe setting in profile.
That said my Standard 30 cal has been excellent so far with only some minor nits. I see your version I R3M has the probe copper ring instead of the rubber orings I see being mentioned on the II’s. The 30s all seem to have the copper. The nits I have so far are all related to the 30 cal and enhanced air flow or design changes. OG is aware of most of these.
1. Some of the new 30 cal mufflers were not aligned and causing clipping. East enough to fix after you make a tool to loosen. (mine didn’t need to be adjusted)
2. Some bolt probe orings are leaking ever so slightly (the 30s are on the probe – two of them). Fix use 90 dura 5mm x 1.5mm ones OG T&E’d them. Easy fix.
3. Muffler is very quiet (quieter than my std .25 Matador) but breech noise near ear requires ear plug IMO. It’s not loud if you hold your head away from breech even one foot. Kind of a noise transfer so either some noise insulation/foam is needed or one ear plug.
4. Lastly, the way the regulator is adjusted for the 30, it seems to not open at higher fill pressures. Not an issue for hunting but enough of a change to affect paper shooting. Mine opens about 220 bar but not at 240 bar resulting in a reduction in velocity of about 25 FPS for the first few shots. I wonder if the regulator can be beefed up. I bet OG will figure something out. I wish Ernest had a 30 as well. 😀
Other than that it is very accurate out to the 40 yards I have tested so far and I don’t see any flyers. It destroys sparrows and squirrels. I got one squirrel at 57 yards and posted the photo a few times. It just blows up sparrows. I mainly picked up the 30 for the raccoon problem we have during the warm months. Some years it is not unusual to shoot 50 of them. They are extremely destructive. I am pretty sure Predator pellets will be available for the 30 soon.
“However, I for one would like to see this forum concentrate on guns and their issues more than individual members and theirs…… 😉
Am I the only one ? 🙄 “
LOL 😀
However, I for one would like to see this forum concentrate on guns and their issues more than individual members and theirs…… 😉
Am I the only one ? 🙄
Hmmmm…
Trygve
Drama develops? What drama ?? Never seen any of that here on this wholesome Forum.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2. This POS iPhone sucks though …
That lube as a pellet lube ??? 😯
Man, that oil is highly explosive and may cause some very undesired effects in your gun. “Diesling” they call it. Too much of that behind your pellets and you may turn your gun into a real “firearm” !!!
Not for me please…. 🙄
Trygve 😀
Thanks a lot WIngman…!
Yes, the wear and tear of the mags have no implication on function or accuracy, – it is a you say purely cosmetic. Why they seem to wear differently I don’t know. And yes, I have been manually indexing a lot which may have to do with the appearance on the outside of my drum. Anyway, it does not matter much at all…
This thing shoots like a dream, – have no doubt about it. The string is more or less as expected, – still not as even as the one of the “Crickets” out of the box. I wonder why ??? Also it appears that my gun has never been testfired before shipment. This apparently applies to a lot of guns shipped lately, – also to the US. In my book a bit disappointing as it removes some of the feeling of a “handmade” gun. Even more important is that potential failures in indexing of the .25s might have been detected before it’s too late and drama develops as we have seen it lately …..
About the groups shown above: They may look impressive. However if you were to break them up into 5-shot groups, you would possibly see much more of a spread. I should have made 5-shot groups only as I normally do. Will do that later. This gun has potential, – that’s beyond doubt. There were no flyers at all and that’s very promising. I did not shoot from my normal rig, – just from a sandbag (or two to be exact) on top of a table, and I did not concentrate too much on accuracy this time. I was far too exited just to feel how well the gun performed mechanically………
Here’s a slightly more “clinical” picture of my R3M with acceories:
For those who want to know:
Scope: March-F 3-24×42 FIML with FML-1 reticle.
Mounts: UTG Quick detach High.
Bubble lever/anti-cant device: MSP 30 mm (I cannot live without these anti-cant devices, they make a world of difference. Especially with high scope mounts.)
Bipod: BT Industries ATLAS ACCUSHOT BT10-LW17 attached to a 9 Slots MAGPUL MOE® Polymer Rail Section fastened to the stock with stainless steel 4.5 mm wood screws.
Monopod: BT Industries ACCUSHOT BT13 -QK- PRM attached to the stock via a slightly modified rail from BT Industries, article no BT28. (There’s a longer wood section on the R3M stock than the R3).
Plug for fillport: BEST FITTINGS (UK) Article no.: 03W2-PP01, – originally designed for HW100 but fits perfectly. Absolutely needed in dusty environment. Compulsory in my book.
More to follow…….
Cheers
Trygve 
Very nice Trygve.. It shoots like mine does which is great! The chrony string also resembles what mine did out of the box.. though it can be tuned much better once run in..
Mine has the same contact point inside the mag well but the mag doesn’t actually contact the action wall when being cycled normally, that contact happens when the mag is inserted and sometime when manually rotated if you put too much side load pressure on it..
You can see in this pic from the underside with a light shining from the top that there is about a 1mm gap of clearance and this gap is unchanged when cycling the action.
You can also see the cosponsoring lateral wear lines in the anodizing of the mag that are evenly spaced around the outside of the drum, this is where it makes contact when I manually rotated or clip it into place.. Yours appears to have an even “wiping” wear around it?
I have noticed more anodising wear on some mags than others which is interesting..The main thing is they all function perfectly regardless of a little bit of black anodising rubbed of which is purely only cosmetic value.
Silicone has almost no lubricating properties when used on alloy or steel, I use Teflon based RemOil on my mags, I just remove the O rings and give them a light spray from time to time.. Im not sure how much it helps as its been a while since I shot one without the lube on it.
Another lube you could try on them that is safe on rubber O rings is the Krytech Wax chain lube, many people use this as a pellet lube so it will have no diverse effects if it migrates to your o rings or bore etc..
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Mike,
I sure don’t have the answer to that. They are discussing and speculating on that over here.
http://www.talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=28328&start=40
in respect to the .25 R3M and the way the probe is being sealed, one being dual probe Orings and the other being a copper breech seal. Is one superior over the other. Reason I ask is I just noticed this on my new received R3M as having the copper ring as opposed to my R3 which has dual probe Oring.