Mouning Scope on Cricket
I got 25 back from repair. Stupid lay gun on side where side lever rubs on plate and dinged it up. Non the less long story short gun is 4 mils low and one mil left when scope is optically zeroed at 25 yards. I have burris with inserts and will try to get it back as close as possible. I tried differant mounts too and they are spot on with the burris with the Zero inserts on rings. I took more care this time to have scope optically centered and it bothers me why its out that much. Is it normal? BTW gun shoots one holers at 25 yards with AA pellets for a whole clip. I am real happy with that because AoA had a 20 yard 5 shot group that was far from one holer. To make matters worse i lost the instruction sheet for the burris mounts so i guess i will have to find some on internet.
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Coda you have to be more on the ball and keep watch on how we do things. You have to start yelling at us when we do things the wrong way.
I always center a scope before I even mount it on the gun out of habit with the mirror method. Takes a good 30 seconds.
I want to share the difference between by two identical Hawke SW one without being optically centered and one that’s not. When using the non centered Hawke on 22 cricket I would dial scope back to 6.5 power to get brightness up for 50 yard night shots with 800 lumen night core lamp. My experience was quite amazing couple nights ago when I put down a ferrel cat at 70 yards at 13 power. It was even clearer/brighter than other one at 6.5 power. Its only adjustment on centered scope is 8 clicks down. So its clearly a big advantage vs other or lazy way. I recommend the Burris signature series with inserts as they provide more adjustment options than other systems for alot less money.
I do wish is would have mounted camera on scope to show how reticle moves around as you turn the inserts.
Thats not a great advert at all for the hawke mount :suprisedn: but dont depend truley on you tube videos for such a serious shooter in the video u would think hed notice the tension screews under the front of the mount to stop any movement 🙄 there not really made for air guns but made for live fire rounds mine has no movement what so ever and been used vigarously now for a good 6-7 month scince i bought my cricket once u find the angle u require u dont only tighten the back lock bolt but tighten the front also if it was tight befor you found the angle you require it would stress the mount and prob snap if no play was there for adjustment atb dave g
i found this review on that hawke mount…
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9X8T-cZTuhI
i was thinking about going that route… now I’m not…. back to the drawing board.
Im thinking going a different route.
I checked the US Hawke site and they don’t have that listed. It’s not on Ebay or Amazon there, the only place i found it was where you posted it at optics uk site, this makes me kinda of wonder if its truly a Hawke mount.
hey dave… does that hawke mount lock down so it can’t be adjusted by accident? when adjusting it can’t u do fine adjustments with the mount.?
I have the ATP61 for dovetail and i love em… I can get the elevation right on from the start and not have to touch my scope leaving it centered.
I’m still leaning toward the SM’s…
The FX don’t interest me cause they don’t have a way to do fine adjustments. seems like you gotta move them by hand and hope u can get it close. where the SM’s u just start it low.. and ease the screw in till its right on spot.
Yes mate it has a locking grub screw on the side so once set no adjustment can be mae once light tmoz ile get u some pics of it close up i ave mine around same angle as the edgun rail 😉
SM are good quality mounts and made in UK. I have no experience on Hawke mounts but i expect them to be somewhat like ie UTG´s – qualitywise. Any mount having a “grip tape” in them makes me suspicious though … Those UTG´s i have are lapped and the tape is removed. “Grip tape” in the rings = lower class quality to me.
Burris Sig Zee´s are one of my favorites together with Sako Optilock´s. Need the best ? Go for SPUHR´s … http://www.spuhr.com/
them look nice E….
hey dave… does that hawke mount lock down so it can’t be adjusted by accident? when adjusting it can’t u do fine adjustments with the mount.?
I have the ATP61 for dovetail and i love em… I can get the elevation right on from the start and not have to touch my scope leaving it centered.
I’m still leaning toward the SM’s…
The FX don’t interest me cause they don’t have a way to do fine adjustments. seems like you gotta move them by hand and hope u can get it close. where the SM’s u just start it low.. and ease the screw in till its right on spot.
saved you some $$$$$$$$$$ for sure then….
Zonk
I was able to get my scope sighted in using the Burris signature rings with inserts. They give you windage and elevation at the same time. Glad I was able to use them as they look so much better. I ended up putting gun in vise and shoot a hole on target at 20 yards and played with the inserts till I got them right. It would take forever to try and do it at the range without vise. Its quite amazing how point of aim moves around when you turn the inserts. Anyway pretty weird thread as I fixed my own problem with the existing hardware I had. 😀
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So whatta you guys think I should do? I want to buy either the Hawk 1 Piece 30mm Droop Compensating Mount:
http://www.opticswarehouse.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=Hawke_1_Piece_30mm_Droop_Compensating_Mount_Weaver
or the new FX “No Limits” rings. Both would probably come out to the same price ~$85. I am leaning towards the Hawk mount as it seems to be easier to adjust and the adjustments seem like they would “hold” better than the FX, and I prefer the 1 piece design, but then again the NL mounts look pretty cool too….
Yes they make the FX No Limits for cricket rail. They are not on website! what do you expect it’s ancient. I did call them and he had to go and check. They have the 30 mm in stock.
I just got in from trying my last adjustment with the Burris signature rings and now I’m 2″ high. So it looks like I have plenty adjustment with the inserts. I’m half a mildot off of center so I’m going to cancel the FX rings.
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I was looking for a set of adj. mounts to use on the P12…. but i just found out that its not needed.
The way the Factory rail was designed you can actually shim the rear of the rail to put the elevation on the mark. 😀