Q:

Taipan Mutant vs. Edgun Matador R3

According to Wikipedia, the inland taipan is considered to be the most venomous land snake related to the cobra family. Taipans move fast and possess highly neurotoxic venom and other toxic substances, which paralyze victim’s nervous system and clot the blood. Taipans are considered some of the most deadly known snakes. One drop of the inland taipan’s venom can kill up to 100 men (bioweb.uwlax.edu). The inland taipan is shy and rarely attacks. The taipan mutant can even be more deadly based on what you have seen in the mutant turtles created by Kevin Eastman and Peter Laird.

Dman/Jaime and Ernest have posted very positive reviews on the Taipan Mutant – the mighty beast created in the Ukraine. The high air efficiency is intriguing to me, but it remains many mysteries concerning this particular strain of Taipan. Dman finally sent me his beloved Mutant to play with. Thanks Dman!

Here are my thoughts on the Mutant, and I intended to compare it with my “aged” Edgun Matador R3. I have to say it in the front that this is just my personal opinion on the comparison.

Machining: The machining of the Mutant is outstanding, very smooth, polished very well, no sharp edges and corners, and slightly glossy in the metal, outstanding finishing I would say. It looks and feels better than my R3s.

Stock: The quality of the stock is okay (i.e., serve the purpose). The Mutant stock is also well machined and shoulders comfortably for me. My R3 stock looks and feels better than the Mutant in appearance.

Hand Grip: The Mutant grip is very ergonomic and just the right size for my hands. It is very comfortable and no sharp edges. I like it much better than the R3.

Cocking: The lever cocking is butter smooth, effortless and flawless, period. The bolt cocking in my R3 is also very smooth after polishing and lubing the chamber.

Cocking Lever: The lever is ambidextrous. You can swap mutant lever to left or to right, a thoughtful design. R3?

Magazine Indexing: The magazine is very easy to install. It cycles very well but you will need to count the shot to know the last shot or you will need to put a marker/label on the magazine wall to tell where you are at. I had some dry fires without knowing the last shot. I have no experience with the Edgun magazine and its cycling, so no comparison on this.

Single-Shot Tray: The tray is easy to drop in, and very smooth. I don’t know if the single-shot tray is available for the R3M from the factory.

Scope Rail: The rail is very well made. My Burris Signature Z rings fit into it very well. The R3 rail has an angle to accommodate long-range shooting. But I don’t know if the Mutant has the same. I put on my SS scope and sighted it in at 30 yards without any problem.

Trigger: This is one of the best parts of the Mutant. Dman has turned the trigger really well, light, smooth, and crispy break. It is very consistent. This is much better than the R3s I have (both.22 and .25). The Mutant trigger is fully adjustable. Unlike R3, the first and second stage adjustments are independent in the Mutant. The tension for each stage is also adjustable. Did I say it is super smooth? The smoothness of the trigger makes you feel good and enjoyable during shooting. There is a tiny hole beside the trigger adjustment screws. I don’t know what that is for, but I think you can apply a needle drop of glue to that hole to prevent the movement of the screw to ensure the consistency of the trigger. Although I don’t use it, the Mutant trigger has a simple and effective safety. Overall, the Mutant is much superior than the R3 in trigger category.

Speed Consistency: I have shot more than 5 strings at different days and times. Dman adjusted his gun to shoot 880-890 fps, I consistently got 887-890 fps in mean velocity (from 6 string) with 2.0 to 2.7 fps SD and 7 to 13 fps in max spread. The shot-to-shot variation is within 2.0 to 3.0 fps, with majority of them at 2.0 – 2.2 fps. Based on my record, the Mutant is slightly better than my R3 in SD, max spread, and shot-to-shot variation.

Air Efficiency: Dman had 10.4 cc-bar/FPE in his string (see topic on “Meet the Taipan Mutant… update”). I believe he turned down the reg pressure a little bit (?). He tethered the gun with a large tank and closed the tank valve to use the large tank gauge for accuracy purpose. I read off the pressure change directly from the small gauge in the gun, and the calculated air efficiency is between 11.2 to 12.1 cc-bar/FPE (average 11.6 from 6 strings). In general, it is about 1.87 to 2 bar/shot (JSB 18 grain with 885-890 fps). The speed drops at ~118 bars. From 220 bar to 118 bar (or 115 bar in some strings), you will get ~55 shots with consistent velocity. My R3 has air efficiency ~12.2 cc-bar/FPE, which is close to the Mutant, but I have to said the Mutant edges out my R3. On the other hand, the R3 has larger air reservoir, and I can get 68 to 72 shots with 200-bar fill. Concerning the shot count, R3 wins. I don’t know if the Mutant air usage can be further “improved” by changing reg setting, hammer weight/spring, or valve spring…

Sound Report: The loudness is similar to that of R3, the Mutant may be slightly louder because of its high-pitch sound signature. This is very subjective…but the wife also says Mutant is louder.

Shroud: OD is 30.5 mm, shroud has some baffle inserts. The end-cap is a screw-in type, so it gives the possibility of installing an add-on LDC to further reduce the report. It is difficult to install LDC to the R3 without making a new shroud and adding adaptor for the LDC. In terms of the convenience of installing LDC, the Mutant wins.

HST Adjustment: Mutant has an external HST adjuster, very nicely made, easy to adjust and it is very responsive. There is a side screw to prevent the accidental turn of the adjuster. There is no HST preload on the spring so you can reduce the speed to zero if you want it to. In R3, you need to remove the stock to adjust HST, and the adjuster is difficult to turn and the thread of the adjuster is easily damaged by the little set screw (there is improved adjuster in newer version of the R3 and R3M). My R3 .25 came with damaged HST screw.

Air Filling: The fill hole can be closed by turning the cap, a very nice design, which R3 does not have. You can adjust the location of the fill hole in the Mutant. Dman didn’t send me the fill probe because it was not included in his original package. No problem at all because the probe is compatible with the Edgun probe. But the fill speed in the Mutant is kind of slow. I believe the fill speed is adjustable from the air-inlet screw in gauge assembly.

Pressure Gauge: Same as the Edgun air gauge (Kiwa).

Accuracy: This is the most important subject. A nicely made gun without accuracy is like a hamburger without meat. I am not a good shooter, I just wanted to find out what the Mutant is capable of in my hands. I normally shoot with bipods, but I specifically purchased the Caldwell front and rear bags to test Mutant accuracy. Although it is not thorough, at 30 yard one-pellet hole accuracy is achievable by the Mutant (see some groups in the picture). I tested it with different head size of JSB pellets from 5.46 mm to 5.51 mm (~18.1 grain). It appears that the Mutant likes 5.50-5.51 mm better (target #9 and #10). The groups seem to become larger for smaller head size (5.46-5.49 mm, targets #6, #7, and #8). At 50 yards, the Mutant is capable of producing 0.20” to 0.30” groups with 5.48 mm to 5.51 mm head, when I am in the good mood. The 0.3” to 0.4” group is very common (see some groups in picture). Those shootings were done under windy conditions and sometime with rain. The R3 LW barrel is specifically made to use JSB 18.1 pellets, but the spec of JSB pellet keeps changing and is inconsistent, head size from 5.46 mm to 5.53 mm (most recently was 5.47-5.48 mm), thin to thick skirt, different sizes and depths of head-base… which is very annoying and causes many fliers. My R3 only likes the “old-style” JSB (thin skirt, wider but shallower head-base, and 5.50 mm head size). My Edgun is the first generation R3, its barrel might be different from the newer models. Nevertheless, the Mutant is not that picky and much easier to shoot with compared to the R3. I like the Mutant better.

Conclusion: In some aspects, I feel that the Mutant is superior than my R3. Ernest said: “This thing put the Edgun and cricket in the back Seat‼” now I understand what he means. He also said, “1: All the negative things I know about the edgun and crickets you don’t see on the Mutant. 2: All the positive things I see on the Mutant I don’t see them on the edguns or crickets.” I don’t know about the Crickets since I don’t have one, but concerning the Edgun, R3 in my case, I agree with him.

Regards,
Endo

30-yard target:

50-yard target:

Taipan Air Rifles

All Replies

Viewing 15 replies - 76 through 90 (of 475 total)

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Thanks Hoot. You are correct, as usual, on this one. So, you will get a reward…:wink:

Got a cheap (a relative term) scope level (ApexHorizon) last week from Amazon (left, Picture 1). It was made from T6061 aluminum alloy. Unlike others (right, Picture 1), this level does not block the turrets or the big side-wheel on my scopes, and it fits/looks great. The single-screw design (Picture 2) is innovative and it makes installation and adjustment much easier. This scope level is thinner and lighter than the other one (0.10 oz vs 0.18 oz). My Hawke scope (HK4030) has a big side-wheel, which always blocks the scope level if the level were installed behind the wheel (muzzle end). And the level could block the elevation turret and yardage marks of the big wheel If the level were installed in front of the wheel (breech end). With this new level I can install it “upside down” and still see the bubble (Picture 3) and clear the view (Picture 4), not a bad investment.

Endo

Picture 1:

Picture 2:

Picture 3:

Picture 4:

:hoot:

That factory HST set screw is so small, I keep forgetting it is even there. This is a step up from OEM, perhaps Taipan should take note!

Hoot:

Thanks Darryl. It does not sharp at all.

Since you are the first one to appreciate my “work”. I will make one for you.
If you are interested in…email me your address.

Regards,
Endo

Endo, you are one handy guy. The knob isn’t too sharp on the fingers, is it? That brass sure looks good (expensive-like).
Darryl

I need to treat the Shorty equally, just finished making a new HST locker specifically for the little one. This nut is smaller, 6 mm diameter and 4 mm thickness. It is a tiny HST locker but fits and works very well for the shorty. It doesn’t look bad at all. Agree?
Endo

Here are some more readings on ST barrel and twist rate in AGN (http://www.airgunnation.com/topic/smooth-twist-barrels-2/).

Brian’s Mutant is Std length, I believe the barrel in Std Mutant is machined from CZ-200s for AA.

The twist rate varies: 1:16 (http://www.shooting-the-breeze.com/forums/showthread.php?p=213453), 1:17 (http://www.airgunforum.co.uk/forums/showthread.php/174275-Massive-177-JSB-Pellet-Velocity-Test-0-50-metres/page4), 1:17.7 (http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2012/11/how-does-rifling-twist-rate-affect-velocity-and-or-accuracy-part-1/) and 1:18.5 (http://www.airgunbbs.com/archive/index.php/t-677617.html)…..LOL :ugeekn:

I don’t know if the barrel for shorty is machined from CZ-s200 or not, but I feel the CZ factory barrel in my shorty shots differently from the CZ barrel in my Std. I shoot Petr’s mystery barrel most of the time because of her accuracy. I don’t know what the twist rate of factory CZ barrel is in the shorty. Dman might know. But let us know Darryl if you have found out…

Endo

STS, that’s a very interesting thread. Harry’s video shows him hitting the same spot at 52 yards, and with that duplex reticle too. I think I’ll ask him to loan me that barrel (ya think?). So many things to consider when shoving a pellet into the breech. I’ll think about trying to measure the twist rate of my barrel. Maybe. That would be good info to post when I see the gun to a good home (if the wife doesn’t protest too much). I think I’m getting out of it. You guys are having all the fun! :biggrinn:
Darryl

The actual rate of rotation is determined by the twist rate of a barrel and pellet velocity. For example, if a barrel has a 1 turn in 17″ twist rate, and the velocity is 640 fps, then the rotation rate is 640*12/17=451 rps (revolutions per second). Whether a projectile has one full rotation in barrel probably does not matter much. As a result, a shorter barrel does not need a higher twist rate.

Darryl, when you pull a patch through the barrel, you probably sense that it wants to twist/turn. By observing the patch going in and coming out of the barrel, you can probably measure the approximate twist rate of the barrel. Mark one spot of the patch with a permanent market and observe the angle going in and coming out.

This link seems to suggest that even a turn rate of 1 over 75″ (from a ST barrel) still results in accurate shots. The rest of the thread is very interest read as well. My theory that a pellet shot from a ST barrel has a higher BC is also debunked by this thread!

I guess the take-away is that twist rate is not necessarily the most important determining factor accuracy.

I think the barrel twist rate on the Short depends on the barrel maker. Since I seem to have a barrel made in the CZ Republic (Petr’s mystery barrel) I don’t know what the twist rate could possibly be. But I wonder if a faster rate would benefit a shorter barrel? Going the other way, I wonder how accuracy is affected by a pellet not doing a full rotation before leaving the barrel? Thoughts, anyone?
Darryl

According to this post, the twist rate of the Mutant is 17:1.

I listened to LD (Larry Durham) when he talked about experiments that he ran with Smooth Twist barrels. Long story short, the concept of ST works but only for pellet velocities up to a certain point. LD observed that the actual rotation speed of pellets did not match the linear velocity and twist rate of the barrel past a certain amount of energy level.

Now, this is totally second hand information, I have never owned an FX gun, with or without a ST barrel!

The Mutant barrel is also choked, at least mine seems to be. That can also contribute to accuracy as long as the crown is done right.

One thing that ST may influence (as opposed to a regular barrel) is the BC of pellets. I think ST barrels only have two lands, and as a result pellets may end up with a different BC compared to a barrel that has 6 or more lands.

Endo, good point about smooth-twist barrels. I hadn’t thought of that. But it would be interesting to know the twist rate of such a short length of rifling and it’s spin effect on the pellet. I’ve shot the FX Boss in .25 at 100 yards,and must admit it’s a killer barrel. Also, I’ll check out the “springless” search because the idea has made me curious.
Darryl

Thanks Darryl and Sac…

Sac is correct in both theory and the observations. Efficiency of the valve (shape, size and weight), regulator (spring and valve movement, even the materials of the o-ring and lube), transfer port, characteristics of the springs (for hammer and valve) and many others, including environmental factors and pellets, all can contribute to the observed air efficiency. I have been trying to sort that out, but…., simply because too many factors and variables need to be considered and I have no way to control many of them. Moreover, the pressure drop is not even linear within a shot string. So, if you do the test/comparison at different fill pressures and different temperatures, your result will be different; and different guns have different slops of pressure drop in a string. My experience tells me that the major factors are the regulator (efficiency and set pressure) and spring characteristics (influencing the opening/closing dynamics of the valves) in the gun. The airgun is all about physics, and the principles apply to all guns, but how to utilize those principles to make/design a more efficient airgun is another story. Robert Veerkracht (a TAG member here) was making “springless valve” to improve air efficiency and the power of the Edgun. If you are interested in this…searching the forum using the word “springless”.

Just for the curiosity, I will try to find a time to test JSB 18.1 vs. 13.4 grainers. In fact, they are different pellets in shape, hardness and size, not only in weights. So, this will not be a reasonable comparison if you are only interested in the effect of “weight”. Again, too many variables that will certainly contribute to the results…how to precisely interpret the result is another story. So, just pick one (or two) pellet you like the most, in terms of the accuracy, then tune your gun for that pellet(s) – you will be more happy and enjoy the shooting.

Concerning the barrel length and twist rate….the shorty barrel was cut from the standard length and its accuracy is comparable to the standard Mutant (she is very quiet :wink:), although I don’t know the twist rate of the barrel. The Smooth Twist barrel has a very low rate of rotation and was reportedly accurate. The rate of rotation for PCP airgun seems to not need to be as high as traditional thought.

Endo

Regarding the Standard versus the Short, more power for the Standard, but it’s impressive if it’s more quiet than the Short too. Well, in trying to wrap my brain around your explanation of length of barrel et al, I think I need to take something for this rising headache! Great stuff that’s now part of the forum archives for future reference.
Thanks STS! You and Endo are really on it here.
What are your thoughts on barrel twist rates? I thought I’d read the typical rate for air guns is 1 in 16. Would the Short benefit from a faster rate? After asking that, I found this link: http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2013/07/how-does-rifling-twist-rate-affect-velocity-andor-accuracy-part-13/
As you can see, it’s at least 13 parts. Might need a bowl of popcorn, and a cold one. :smilen:
Darryl

A longer barrel means more distance for HPA to act on a pellet. It helps but only to the point of where the force acting on a pellet (pressure times cross section area) is canceled by the friction of a pellet traveling through a barrel. The gain also diminishes as the length of the barrel increases. The means that adding 1″ to a 14″ barrel sees more gain than adding 1″ to a 17″ barrel.

Past the point where frictional force exceeds pressure times cross section area, adding length only slows down the pellet!

So Darryl, you are correct that the length of a barrel does affect the energy efficiency of a PCP. In fact, this observation also confirms that with a Shorty, the pellet is still accelerating right before it exits the barrel, otherwise a Standard should not have a higher muzzle FPE. Furthermore, the improved energy efficiency of a longer barrel also means it is more quiet because the air pressure at muzzle is further reduced.

STS,good process-thinking. What is your opinion about longer barrels in this discussion? I’ve read that all else being equal, a longer barrel provides somewhat higher pellet velocities, so does this mean the air pressure has more dwell time in the barrel towards reaching it’s maximum expansion? Thinking more on it, I don’t really see how that can be related to efficiency as discussed here. So that’s why I’m asking.
thank you,
Darryl

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