The Airforce Bottle Regulator is here!
Ladies and Gentlemen,
I am pleased to announce that the Airforce bottle regulator is complete and I have the distinct honor to offer them for sale.
They have the M18 x 1.5 threadpitch for the Airforce bottle on one end and the .875-20UNEF threads for the E-TaCREG on the other.
The length and diameter are identical to the other JDS Airman regs.
I will be stocking them here at E-TaC central. The cost is $90 shipped, same as the E-TaCREG. CONUS shipping is included.
You can choose your output pressure from 1200-2500psi.
Here is a picture.
I have to get my tank filled (AGAAIN!!!) and I’ll get a shot count number for the 2000psi output.
Regards,
Jim
All Replies
No thanks,I just like to keep it simple and accurate.If this ETac Reg would have been straight,it would have been much easier for all of us.Not to mention the headache if you don’t have the right tools for the job like a vertical drilling machine. 😡
AC Sniper
Did you try a full threaded collar from “dave_424”?
It still took me two tries to get it right. But, it can be turned around if need be.
I put the collar on the tank then backed it out 1/4 turn. Stand the rifle on end on the tank with collar and center punch one hole. Drill that mark and set screw it. If the E-TaC lines up tight, do the other hole. If not, start over with the collar screwed in or out a little from that 1/4 turn.
Good Luck,
Edmund
I think a straight ETac Reg would have been more desirable for those who don’t want to use the aluminium shims.I need to use all 5 of them to time the tank and wrecked already 2 threaded sleeves to set the tank in the correct position.I just can’t drill that hole on the threaded sleeve in the exact spot and perfectly vertical.I don’t have the tools for the job.
Send Marmot_Militia a pm, he’s a great guy and will answer any questions you have.
I am seeing 2 different TacRegs. One has a external thread on one end and an internal thread on the other. The other has 2 internal threads so my question is which one do you need for a 48 c.i.hpa tank? I need a hpa bottle then a regulator in the bottle then a TacReg adapter screwed to the reg then a Condor valve screwed in and then I can screw the whole unit in to my Condor. Does this sound right? Does this mean the gun will be regulated? If this is right how much does all this cost? I think I must be missing something. HELP
It worked good before I started backing down the Top Hat. The TH adjustment worked the same as the Power Wheel, both take the FPS down in chunks. After numerous 1/4 turn adjustments I got it down to 256 FPS. Heck, Pab can move that fast in the dark with a cow behind him.
So, damn daylight savings time made it to dark to shot by 5:30 PM. I snuged up the TH and got back to 944 fps in the dark. That’s faster than in daylight 😯
PB, I know the o-ring works well but it hanging slightly off center bothers me considering all the hard hits it takes. The rubber washer that I made from the rubber fender washer fits snug but does have more surface area. If need be I could trim it to a smaller OD and maintain equilibrium. When I get it maximized I’ll pop on an o-ring and see if I need the extra hitting power.
Also i cant help but think that the rubber finder washer would react differently with the top hat. with a o ring i think that it would cushion better and rebound differently, with a solid rubber back like with the washer there is not room for the rubber to squeeze out with the hit, Does this make any sense.
Any way you might try a o ring to see the difference.???? or if any .
Pab,
Where would we be without all the details ???
Yep, 24″ x .22 caliber Condor, 2500 PSI E-TaCReg for AF bottle.
X2 what you and powderburner suggested.
Dang, there you go with that lighter hammer again!
I thought I did all I could with my EnLightened Hammer with my 12″ x .177 barrel…Well…OK, let me revisit Top Hat adjustments for the current setup first.
I need to get this setup maximized for H&N .22 x 21.14 gr Baracuda Match pellets and then finalize my scope for 40 yards zero. I will then work some heavier and lighter pellets in with hopefully minor adjustments and maybe another E-TaCReg.
PB,
You’re right, with the rubber washer it has a full range of Power Wheel to FPS. With this 0.070″ rubber fender washer I did 10 shots to see where I wanted it for a full string. PW 8= 788 FPS, 9= 868, 10= 924, 10 1/2= 937, 11= 941, 12= 952, 13= 960, 961, 964 & 964.
Previously a 0.050″ rubber washer went from PW 0= 431 FPS up to PW 11= 994 FPS. That was a higher velocity but the rubber tube patch may not hold up. I could give it more of a workout but the rubber fender washer appears more durable so far.
Next trip to the range I’ll try what you suggest, turning the Top Hat down. If the velocity starts to climb I’ll adjust until it begins to drop then see if I can back down the PW. A previous test at 20 yards gave me same hole from 890 FPS up through 992 FPS.
Note: I cut the Rubber Fender Washer, from Ace Hardware @ $0.35, in 4 pieces, punched holes with a loose leaf paper punch (fits the valve just right), with it installed on a valve I held it against the Top Hat and trimmed it’s OD with nail clippers. Walaah! 4 x 0.070″ rubber washers for 35 cents. 1 for each of my valve stems.
You said that the velocity went from 979 ‘s to 930’s with adjusting power wheel from 11 to 13 so it seems that the power wheel is where it needs to be.becaue yu have the adjustment capability?
I don’t understand why your using so much air, do you think that your waisting air, could you turn things down and still get the velocity,
Have you tried the power wheel with less , say 6, and the top hat at 85 to 95, cant remember. i have seen the velocity come up with less power wheel, when playing around.
YOu know i think what is going on is that the regulated volume is not enought for this velocity, so you are compensating by running the settings wide open, and using allot of air. so you may be peaked out with the 21 g. pellet weight and getting 25 regulated shots. if this is the deal it’s not bad to get 25 reg shots then fill.????????
All i can say is maybe to start backing things off a little at a time and see if you can keep the velocity.
X2, back it off a little. What length barrel you using? If you using less than 24″, it could be you have maxed out the fps for that rig, and are just wasting air with the current settings. Either back off ther PW or use a lighter hammer. You may see a slight drop in fps, but will gain a lot in shot count. Though saying that, I would be happy with 25-30 good shots at 40 fpe from a .22 with the stock bottle….
that sure looks good for the start but it seems that your not getting the shot count, you have the settings high for the velocity that your getting.?
You said that the velocity went from 979 ‘s to 930’s with adjusting power wheel from 11 to 13 so it seems that the power wheel is where it needs to be.becaue yu have the adjustment capability?
I don’t understand why your using so much air, do you think that your waisting air, could you turn things down and still get the velocity,
Have you tried the power wheel with less , say 6, and the top hat at 85 to 95, cant remember. i have seen the velocity come up with less power wheel, when playing around.
YOu know i think what is going on is that the regulated volume is not enought for this velocity, so you are compensating by running the settings wide open, and using allot of air. so you may be peaked out with the 21 g. pellet weight and getting 25 regulated shots. if this is the deal it’s not bad to get 25 reg shots then fill.????????
All i can say is maybe to start backing things off a little at a time and see if you can keep the velocity.
Maybe I’ll try a new spring set up to see if I get more consistancy, and greater shot count.
maw,
Like I said, I’ve mixed a couple things together not because it’s easy but because they all are proven to work in some application and it wasn’t hard to do. This string is very flat without erradic velocities. The O-Ring or fender washer appears to delay the valve rebound that may help get the maximum out of the limited amount of regulated air. We just need to find the best combination of ideas and technology.
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A C sniper,
One sniper manual suggested the sniper only make the necessary windage, elevation, and on rare occasion a trigger pull adjustment and of course all the timely cleaning of the rifle. Anything else was to be referred to the properly trained and equipped personnel. Some of us realize the responsibilities of the sniper are emence and he shouldn’t be expected to have to re-engineer his weapons.
The difference here is our modifications are rarely weighted as a life or death situation. We are relaxed and can afford to make an occasional error. For some time I resisted trying the E-TaC with drop and cast. Finally, with new knowledge that some top end rifle stocks are also cast off to the side to allow more comfortable sight acquisition I gave it a try. With only crude hand tools I got it right after a couple tries. If I didn’t have a lot of determination I could have taken the job to any of a number of firearm dealers or one of several machine shops. Either way, I’m proud to have done it myself. I’m retired but far from dead.
The straight E-TaC may still need a slight shin to clear the frame with the gauge and Foster quick fill. I’m not certain of that.
To my delight my E-TaC with drop and cast off made my CONDOR much more comfortable to shoot. It helped so much I did away with the Tri-Rail I had my scope on. Now my old neck doesn’t have to bend so far. AF should buy the E-TaC.