Making the .25 Edgun quiet, easily and inexpensively…
The key to the Edgun .25 making less noise is reducing the air pressure at the muzzle. There are a few ways to do this without engaging in exotic baffle designs, or spending money on an aftermarket shroud or moderator.
Here’s how it’s done:
The first step is to remove both the baffle cover, which is unscrewed counter clockwise, by hand, then removing the bottom shroud by removing the barrel bushing/vent nut. Then you can easily enlarge the existing vent holes at the rear of the Edgun shroud with a variable speed hand drill. I made my lower shroud vent holes 2.0mm in diameter:
You can go larger if you wish. If you go too large and begin to hear air “whoosh” out of the vent holes when firing, just wrap some felt around the inside of the shroud, behind the vent holes, to slow the air down. You can touch them up with the tip of a permanent ink black felt tip Sharpie. This is how they look when done, but before the Sharpie touchup:
The next step is to increase the air flow from the front of the Edgun to the rear of the shroud. Now on the R3 this is a bit more complicated because the shroud comes in two parts, so I will concentrate on the R3. Unscrew the top shroud, baffle cover, taking care to remove it easily because the O-ring can be damaged on the threads. Be sure to put silicone grease that O-ring before putting it back on. Note the bottom shroud, and barrel, are held in place by a 19mm nut with vent holes in it. It unscrews easily, counter-clockwise, with a common metric wrench:
After it is taken off, you then enlarge the holes in the nut with a variable speed drill. I went 2.5mm, you may choose to go smaller, but not much larger, as the hole diameter affects the strength of the nut.
After this is done, you simply replace the bottom shroud, then the barrel bushing, being certain that the bottom of the shroud is properly placed OVER the rim of the permanent cone shaped breech attachment. If you ignore this step, you will bend the bottom of the shroud when you tighten the nut…note the bottom of the shroud sitting flush against the cone shaped breech attachment in this picture. The hidden rim inside the shroud is about 1/8″ or so tall, but it must have the shroud placed evenly over it before tightening the nut. When you lift up and remove the bottom shroud, you will easily spot it, as the cone shaped breech attachment remains in place:
Finally, there has been much discussion regarding how much torque must be used to tighten the nut that holds the barrel and bottom shroud in place. This is not a difficult process. First you obtain a Russian Torque Wrench…see below picture:
Placing the 19mm wrench in this handy grasping tool, you tighten the nut to where it is snug against the shroud, then you go roughly 1/2 turn further. That’s all it takes. Remember, this is thin and fairly soft aluminum and will strip threads or bend rather easily. AND…if you have placed the bottom of the barrel shroud over the lip of the cone shaped breech attachment, you will not have bent, or dented, the bottom of the shroud.
Replacing the top shroud (baffle cover) is easily done, just be careful sliding the cover over the O-ring using a light downward pressure and clockwise screwing motion until it gets past the threads on the cover. Snug it up hand tight, no more.
That’s it! You can expect at least a 50% reduction in muzzle blast, which on the Long Edgun makes the hammer slap the loudest noise emitted when shooting the gun. It costs nothing, takes about 1/2 hour, a couple of metric bits, and a variable speed hand drill. Take your time. The existing holes will guide the bit if you proceed slowly, especially when starting the new hole.
Now, for that hammer slap…I’m still working on that one.
Regards,
Kindly ‘Ol Uncle H 😯 😯 t
All Replies
From what I could tell at the hardware store the pitch is as Gabe suggested 0.80.
They didn’t have anything larger than an 18mm fine thread bolt, fine is coarse when compared to the shroud threads and extra fine is even coarse.
From this I think we can work backwards.
What is the OD of the male threads on the baffle?
Hoot, think you can get Neil to do a group buy?
Hey Hoot,
I will try to go to the local hardware store and see if they have anything. I checked on McMasters and they do have m24 bolts but they are coarse thread. The R3’s is definitely a fine coarse, looks like a .8 mm pitch according to my calipers. Maybe .7 mm.
I doubt I will find out what the size is if there is any standard size. It maybe a custom cut thread which can only be replicated with a lathe and cutter.
At McMasters, they sell aluminum tube which has almost the same dimensions as the edgun tube. Here is a link:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-aluminum-hollow-tubing/=nzc1ol
Part # 9056K743
The walls may be too thin to drill and tap holes for set screws. The o.d. is almost spot on as well as the id.
This is where I can’t go forward because I don’t have the tools.
Firecracker has a good idea of cutting threads on the outside of the oem tube. It can be done as long as the cuts are shallow or follow the same dimensions as the existing threads on the inside. Again, this is probably requires custom work. It seem like a job for a machinist.
gAbe
Sir Hoot “Shrimpy” Pothead,
The Standards of Taking Outside Nominal Edgun Dimensions (STONED) would like to remind you that 1″ is exactly 25.40mm, so, if you failed to notice I said “under one inch” and it is in fact UNDER one inch.
25mm = 0.980″ btw.
Breathe? Heathen bastards don’t breathe, thought your edjumacated ass would know that. Shit i’m lucky if I can remember to beat my poor three legged, one-eyed deaf dog I affectionately named “Hoot”, that’s why I come here and read your nonsense, every time I see your screen name I am reminded to give him a swift kick and yell BITCH!!! At least my Hoot knows who hid daddy is!
I’m going to Ace right now to find the proper thread, but i’m going to tell everyone but you! 
Stay posted folks, findings to be published soon, just don’t tell Hoot, it just may break his poor little heart.
To the last post regarding. 25 standard…
Will it work on a standard? Probably. I doubt if Ed uses different shrouds on his guns.
Thanks Hoot!!
Gabe… You are the closest to the answer. Is there a place where you could take the shroud cover and see if your guess is correct?
To the last post regarding. 25 standard…
Will it work on a standard? Probably. I doubt if Ed uses different shrouds on his guns.
Ignorant Twat!!!
I calipered the shroud, and it measured .995″, so 25mm has to be close, considering the threads are cut on the inside of the wall.
Honestly… Does someone have to remind you to breathe?
Sincere Regards,
Kindly ‘Ol Uncle Hoot
Would this work fine for a standard R3?
The tube that goes over the baffles. I would prefer keeping the baffle assembly and just adding a longer tube with an end cap. Just like this:
I think the extra volume out front with maybe a baffle will be enough to make it more quiet than it already is. Just enough to get rid of the slight snap it now has. With this set up, I can always go back to stock. Nothing permanent.
Gabe
A nut would probably be cheaper if you were going to order a few to test…
The Ace Hardware by me has metric stuff, bring your tube in there and try a few bolts out. If I could get mine off i’d go see if they had anything that fit.
Are we talking about the tube that fits over the baffle? Or the majority of the barrel?
Hi,
I measured my baffle cover.
25.mm od
1.17mm wall thickness
22.66 id
The threaded bushing where the cover screws onto is 23.92mm. I believe the size is M24 fine thread. I’m not certain. I would need to find a bolt of that size to verify.
Gabe
You are correctamundo Tedd! Sorry about that, I just went back to my PM and saw your message to me with that info. I was emailing Neil with my personal email account and copied and paste what you wrote to me. I probably thought it was Ernest because I was discussing with him about the silencer on his R3 as well.
HOOT, send your baffle/mounting nut assembly and the collar that the baffle nut tightens up against, to locate and lock the rear moderator air tube in place, to Neil.
I have been working on my R3 25 long/Hart, 28” long .257” barrel project. I needed a longer rear moderator air tube to go with the 4” longer Hart barrel. It was easy for me to make the modified front and rear locating/locking collars for the longer slightly larger ID rear moderator tube.
McMaster-Carr has the correct ID alum air tube in stock. They actually offer different thickness alum tubes that have the same ID. I settled for the cheapest tube that they had. It had a slightly larger ID and OD so, I had to make the front and rear locating collars for the rear mod air tube. It was a lot cheaper doing that than buying the proper sized exotic alum alloys that got pricey very quickly!
I used the stock R3 front baffle; I just had to make the collars for the rear air tube. Piece of cake.
Neil could easily make you an extension that would screw right on to the barrel of the R3, torque the barrel down, still vent into the rear moderator tube and extend out for any length that you desired.
HOOT: we all know that you are a cheap bastard! As I look back on the Hart barrel project, you could just have Neil make you a modified baffle collar and just use a 12 mm X 1.25 mm pitch nut and a washer. You could drill the washer with as many holes as you wanted. The new collar would be a little longer, allowing for space for a couple of set screws. Neil’s extension could then be tightened down with the set screws.
A second setup would still use a longer collar, have an extension that slid over the stock front baffle assembly, be longer and have more baffles in it. It would replace the front moderator air tube while still using the baffles for support/alignment. If you went that route, I would still recommend a longer collar and to use at least 2 set screws.
I am happy to be of help. You don’t owe me anything for sharing my vast Matador knowledge and expertise!
PLEASE don’t send me your Russian torque wrench! You senile, demented hillbilly!
Donny; the post that you attributed to Ernest, looks like an answer that I posted here a while back. Just sayn.
HOOT, send your baffle/mounting nut assembly and the collar that the baffle nut tightens up against, to locate and lock the rear moderator air tube in place, to Neil.
I have been working on my R3 25 long/Hart, 28” long .257” barrel project. I needed a longer rear moderator air tube to go with the 4” longer Hart barrel. It was easy for me to make the modified front and rear locating/locking collars for the longer slightly larger ID rear moderator tube.
McMaster-Carr has the correct ID alum air tube in stock. They actually offer different thickness alum tubes that have the same ID. I settled for the cheapest tube that they had. It had a slightly larger ID and OD so, I had to make the front and rear locating collars for the rear mod air tube. It was a lot cheaper doing that than buying the proper sized exotic alum alloys that got pricey very quickly!
I used the stock R3 front baffle; I just had to make the collars for the rear air tube. Piece of cake.
Neil could easily make you an extension that would screw right on to the barrel of the R3, torque the barrel down, still vent into the rear moderator tube and extend out for any length that you desired.
HOOT: we all know that you are a cheap bastard! As I look back on the Hart barrel project, you could just have Neil make you a modified baffle collar and just use a 12 mm X 1.25 mm pitch nut and a washer. You could drill the washer with as many holes as you wanted. The new collar would be a little longer, allowing for space for a couple of set screws. Neil’s extension could then be tightened down with the set screws.
A second setup would still use a longer collar, have an extension that slid over the stock front baffle assembly, be longer and have more baffles in it. It would replace the front moderator air tube while still using the baffles for support/alignment. If you went that route, I would still recommend a longer collar and to use at least 2 set screws.
I am happy to be of help. You don’t owe me anything for sharing my vast Matador knowledge and expertise!
PLEASE don’t send me your Russian torque wrench! You senile, demented hillbilly!
25mm is 1″, I don’t think the OD of the shroud is even 1″… More like 3/4″
Here is a good source for metric nuts in fine and course threads.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-nuts/=nz8qqc You’ll have to click hex nuts, scroll down and find the fine thread metric section.
Fucking site is shit for direct links. 😡 😡 😡 😡 😡
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I get 23.8mm…
Now the question is when metric threads are cut are they to the center of the thread pitch or the outside edge?