Q:

My Edgun R3 is finally here!

Edgun R3 .25 Long serial #0249 finally arrives after a long but very worthwhile wait.

Tony did a great job packing. The rifle was double boxed along with thick protective foam wrapped around each end and popcorn to fill any additional gaps.

This shipment has the new stainless steel bolt and a new breech. Internally it also has a new and more efficient valve.

The trigger doesn’t look like it has changed.

She will be getting a new scope soon but for now is wearing the Mueller 4.5-14×40 Tactical scope http://muelleroptics.com/mt451440

Thank you Ed! Thank you Tony!

EdGun

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Viewing 15 replies - 76 through 90 (of 112 total)

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Ok I’ve made some progress and have removed all the air from the Edgun after first shooting it down to 90 bar. Now it’s time to watch oldgoat’s video again on taking the rest of the rifle apart and then adjusting the reg and HST. 😀

When I first started shooting the Edgun for the very first time yesterday, I started at 190 bar and my numbers were in the 940’s but I never shot a full string. The string in my post above was toward the end of the day. As I am shooting this morning to reduce pressure in the rifle I am now back to 920’s and 930’s starting from 140 bar. Was my chrono not reading right yesterday due to lack of light? Even so it still had the increase in velocity near the end of the shot string. I’m so confused but I find comfort knowing that others starting off with similar problems have eventually resolved their issues and end up with a finely tuned Edgun after getting help from our more knowledgable peeps. I am now down to 100 bar and will try to remove all the air from the rifle again by removing the breech and pushing the hammer against the valve.

Here are my numbers from yesterday. It seems like there is a huge jump toward the end of my shot string. I started at around 190 bar and ended just slightly above 100 bar. There are several shots in between that were not recorded due to lack of light. My Edgun needs some love and I really want to tune her to perform as she should.

883 883 883 888 889 890 897 889 895 893 895 888 888 890 890 895 884 879 874 878 881 877 876 881 880 878 876 874 872 874 872 883 884 885 890 890 895 901 903 910 916 917 917 915 910 916 914 913 911 916 905 911 906 904 902 900 890 888

quote oldgoat:

Robert; when dry firing the air usage is lower because the hammer doesn’t have to work against the back pressure that the pellet causes and the air valve can then close quicker. I think!

The Air Force and Matadors use a completely different setup for the hammer.

Ed has said NOT to dry fire a Matador!

I wouldn’t do it even before Ed posted not to do it.

You also can’t dry a FX Royale without causing major problems. PLEASE don’t ask me how I know that! 😳

I’m glad I read this again this morning because I was very tempted to dry fire the Edgun last night to lower the pressure because I was having a very hard time depressurizing the rifle. While doing this I remember oldgoat’s post about NOT dry firing the Edgun so I stopped.

So guys am I doing something wrong here or do I just need to man up and push harder? I’m just always weary of breaking something the first time I do something. I am trying to depressurize the rifle so I can adjust the regulator and HST. I removed the breech and then uncocked the hammer while holding it back with my finger. The hammer is now rested against the valve pin. I can’t believe how hard it is to push the hammer in order to slowly release air! I took the wooden stick and put it against the hammer and was pushing against it but I had no luck releasing any air. Here’s a pic of the hammer against the valve and my wooden stick behind the hammer ready to push the hammer. The gauge currently reads 140 bar. Do I need to shoot it down to 100 bar or even lower before doing this?

OK, Thanks Tedd!

I read a lot about guys dry firing there Ed’s, let this be something to remember!

Regards, Robert.

Robert; when dry firing the air usage is lower because the hammer doesn’t have to work against the back pressure that the pellet causes and the air valve can then close quicker. I think!

The Air Force and Matadors use a completely different setup for the hammer.

Ed has said NOT to dry fire a Matador!

I wouldn’t do it even before Ed posted not to do it.

You also can’t dry a FX Royale without causing major problems. PLEASE don’t ask me how I know that! 😳

quote oldgoat:

Dry firing a Matador that doesn’t have any air pressure in the air tube is a definite NO NO NO!

Hi Tedd,

That I understand!
Sometimes when I fill up from zero I have to cock it,
otherwise the hamer just pushes the valve open it selfe!

But when at 120 bar+ I didn’t think it could do any damage.
After cleaning the barrel I did dry fire 2 times, just to blow the dust out.

I thought that when dry firing the air usage is lower,
with a talon it is.
Without pellet the air gets less resistance forcing the valve to close again.
The pressure at one side is much higher, it want to close the valve.

With pellet the pressure in the transferport area builds up,
I thoughd the valve would open longer and more.
The pressure at both sides of the valve are getting same then.

The only thing with drifiring that is diferend is that the valve gets smacked closed, deu to the big diference in pressure.
But is that a problem?

Regards, Robert

ps: on the other hand: I don’t want to discus it much, you are way more experienced than I am….
Every day I learn a little more!

Robert, dry firing the Matador is a NO NO because Ed designed to gun to shoot pellets.

I am probably not going to be able to correctly state why it is not a good idea but, I will try to do so.

If there is a pellet in the barrel, when the hammer strikes the air valve rod, the force needed to fully open the air valve and keep it open long enough to push the pellet out of the barrel is a lot more than the force needed to dry fire the gun.

When shooting the gun with a pellet in it, as the hammer starts to open the air valve, the transfer port and breech area are quickly brought up to the reg’s set pressure. That pressure will then try to close the air valve. That is why higher HST settings will give a higher speed. The hammer has more force that allows the air valve to remain open longer.

If you dry fire the gun, there is no pellet induced resistance and the regulated pressure can just go out of the barrel. You don’t have any dampening factor and the hammer will just slam the air valve all of the way in and, at the least, the hammer will scar the face of the brass screw that the air valve slides through. At the worst, you could break the hammer!

Dry firing a Matador that doesn’t have any air pressure in the air tube is a definite NO NO NO!

quote oldgoat:

DO NOT dry fire the gun! I know that sounds like a no brainier

Hi Old Goat,

I am a no brainier….. Could you please explane why it is harmfull for the R3 to do so?

Thanks,

Robert

First let me say I have purchased several air guns from them first class service!
I called for the fitting and they had no clue!
After some discussion they are sending me something but I am not so sure they knew what I wanted. I even read exactly what you guys posted about the fitting

I’m off today and will finally get a chance to play. I’ll post some untuned results later.

i think they are talking about female threads on one end to accept the edgun fill probe and male foster fitting on the other end for female quick disconnect on the filling aparatus

When I received my Edguns, I just took the probe and my fill whip to the local hardware store and he found a female/female end brass connector that my fill whip screwed into one end, and the Edgun probe screwed into the other end.

I think it was .59 cents.

It was that easy. Am I missing something here?

H 😯 😯 t

I purchase them from Pyramyd as well; very reasonable.

Thanks JR. Good to hear. I need to order a few things from them so i’ll pick up a few while i’m at it.

steel

JR

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