Mystery Box!!!
Wife called to tell me that a mysterious box was delivered home!
I arrived and saw it. Was waiting for it for long time
I opened the box and it’s love at the first sight!!!
It’s my new 25 Cal Vulcan!
Now the discovery journey will start!
All Replies
:hoot:
Ville….bring a tube of that “Synthetic Mucus Super-Glide” you’ve been bragging about over on the Rainbow Forum!!! I’m getting my fiddle re-strung…I’ll play while you bump and grind with one of the boys…
Hoot:
There´s always room for one more. Les Boys do the Cabaré ! :whistle:
You know you´re curious … Hang on !
Wow sounds like another canoe trip coming up between Villdoo and Hooters…..
Kisses and hugs !
:hoot:
Pervert
Hoot:
:hoot:
Pervert
Hoot:
EDITED TO SHOW SCREW REPLACEMENT WEB SITE AND SCREWS ORDERED…
Awny, my son…I am but 5.5 hours away if you live in the Metroplex area of Dallas/Ft. Worth. My daughter lives in Grapevine.
Here’s my wisdom for you suckle on as you absorb the responsibility of a new Vulcan .25 pcp:
1) DO NOT put a picatinny rail on the forearm. The forearm is slated in an upward angle and nothing attached to the picatinny rail will align with the barrel or aim point.
2) The tiny 3mm hex screws used will strip easily. When removing them, push your NEW 3mm hex wrench down firmly and hold it down firmly when twisting the screws out. Don’t over-tighten them…just snug, then a bit more. They stay put. Also, I’ve had the heads break off mine, so use a light touch. Should you screw up…go here: http://www.metricscrews.us/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=13_216 AND…here’s the screws I ordered: (Note I ordered Phillips Head replacement screws and I replaced every hex head screw on the outside of my gun)
M3x16mm Zinc Flat Head Machine Screw #10601
M3x5mm Black Oxide Flat Head Phillips Machine Screw #20820
M3x6mm SS Flat Head Machine Screw #10111
Here’s somemore I ordered from Ebay and worked fine! http://www.ebay.com/itm/391268706436?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
3) John Hagan (Hagantool@aol.com) makes a “must have” ldc adapter that replaces the end cap on the shroud. It permits use of a 1/2 X 20 LDC (think DonnyFL for what you need in that department), as you will find this gun is noisy.
4) The “ping” can be easily controlled with a 5/8th X 3/8th grommet put on the hammer spring. Easily done and many details on how to earlier on this forum.
5) There can be vent holes put in the shroud which will reduce the air pressure being pushed through the baffles. They won’t eliminate the noise, but will offer relief. Hagan’s adapter, DonnyFL’s ldc, and the grommet will bring it down to nicely quiet and neighbor friendly. The .25 will never be “silent” because it is simply pushing too much air. I’ve been in contact with Neil Clague about a 1,5″ over-sized ldc. He can make one, but be certain you really need one first. It looks a bit strange/large. I might try one and see how it works…report to follow if I do it.
6) The hammer spring adjustment won’t make major differences in fps. You can screw it in until your velocity starts to go down, then you back it off to attain the higher velocity. You will need a chronly to do this.
7) Expect velocity to gradually drop as the valve/reg/hammer get seated and settled. No problem maintaining the mid to upper 800 fps, but the earlier 900+ fps will gradually decrease over time and settle down in the 800’s. That’s not a bad thing. You can always adjust the reg to a higher bar setting and expect a lower shot count but higher fps/fpe. If you can’t drop whatever you are shooting with 50 fpe, then you really need to check out a .30 caliber and it’s 75-90 fpe potential.
8) Expect that last 1/4″ when cocking the bolt to be hard to push…that’s the pellet going past those O-rings in the breech. It’s not a problem…just know what causes it and be satisfied that you are getting a really tight pellet seal to the barrel and transfer port.
There’s probably more, but my supper is ready. Perhaps others can jump in and add what they know.
Hoot:
PS: I love this gun.
I damn told you so ! A loveable little piece.
I almost love you too so i know that cosy feeling called love …
EDITED TO SHOW SCREW REPLACEMENT WEB SITE AND SCREWS ORDERED…
Awny, my son…I am but 5.5 hours away if you live in the Metroplex area of Dallas/Ft. Worth. My daughter lives in Grapevine.
Here’s my wisdom for you suckle on as you absorb the responsibility of a new Vulcan .25 pcp:
1) DO NOT put a picatinny rail on the forearm. The forearm is slated in an upward angle and nothing attached to the picatinny rail will align with the barrel or aim point.
2) The tiny 3mm hex screws used will strip easily. When removing them, push your NEW 3mm hex wrench down firmly and hold it down firmly when twisting the screws out. Don’t over-tighten them…just snug, then a bit more. They stay put. Also, I’ve had the heads break off mine, so use a light touch. Should you screw up…go here: http://www.metricscrews.us/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=13_216 AND…here’s the screws I ordered: (Note I ordered Phillips Head replacement screws and I replaced every hex head screw on the outside of my gun)
M3x16mm Zinc Flat Head Machine Screw #10601
M3x5mm Black Oxide Flat Head Phillips Machine Screw #20820
M3x6mm SS Flat Head Machine Screw #10111
Here’s somemore I ordered from Ebay and worked fine! http://www.ebay.com/itm/391268706436?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
3) John Hagan (Hagantool@aol.com) makes a “must have” ldc adapter that replaces the end cap on the shroud. It permits use of a 1/2 X 20 LDC (think DonnyFL for what you need in that department), as you will find this gun is noisy.
4) The “ping” can be easily controlled with a 5/8th X 3/8th grommet put on the hammer spring. Easily done and many details on how to earlier on this forum.
5) There can be vent holes put in the shroud which will reduce the air pressure being pushed through the baffles. They won’t eliminate the noise, but will offer relief. Hagan’s adapter, DonnyFL’s ldc, and the grommet will bring it down to nicely quiet and neighbor friendly. The .25 will never be “silent” because it is simply pushing too much air. I’ve been in contact with Neil Clague about a 1,5″ over-sized ldc. He can make one, but be certain you really need one first. It looks a bit strange/large. I might try one and see how it works…report to follow if I do it.
6) The hammer spring adjustment won’t make major differences in fps. You can screw it in until your velocity starts to go down, then you back it off to attain the higher velocity. You will need a chronly to do this.
7) Expect velocity to gradually drop as the valve/reg/hammer get seated and settled. No problem maintaining the mid to upper 800 fps, but the earlier 900+ fps will gradually decrease over time and settle down in the 800’s. That’s not a bad thing. You can always adjust the reg to a higher bar setting and expect a lower shot count but higher fps/fpe. If you can’t drop whatever you are shooting with 50 fpe, then you really need to check out a .30 caliber and it’s 75-90 fpe potential.
8) Expect that last 1/4″ when cocking the bolt to be hard to push…that’s the pellet going past those O-rings in the breech. It’s not a problem…just know what causes it and be satisfied that you are getting a really tight pellet seal to the barrel and transfer port.
There’s probably more, but my supper is ready. Perhaps others can jump in and add what they know.
Hoot:
PS: I love this gun.
I damn told you so ! A loveable little piece.
I almost love you too so i know that cosy feeling called love …
Well, I would have thought a swivel light mount would be necessary on a lot of guns and thus easy to find but I didn’t have any success either.
Maybe one of our metal or wood workers could fabricate an angled piece to mount between the stock and rail so we would have a flat parallel to the barrel. Of course, it would have to have the same hole spacing as those already bored into out stocks.
I have the same problem as Hoot. I need a mount that is parallel to where the gun shoots. It’s disappointing that the vulcan designers did not think of that or drop it in favor of a cosmetic stock design!
H00T,
We might have better luck finding an adapter to the scope.
:hoot:
The picatinny rail itself cannot be adjusted. Some of the mods, especially the bi-pods, will be adjustable, but I’m looking for a swivel mount for my led light…no luck yet!
Anyone know of one????
Hoot:
Thanks. I don’t have any other add-ons but don’t they make some sort of swivel mount for the rail so after mounting you can change the angle?
:hoot:
A bipod would work, but often shooters utilize that rail for other equipment. Unless you do a lot of long distance shooting, that rail just gets in the way. My intent was to use it to mount a focus-able led light for night shooting. If I had it to do over again, I would simply leave it off. There are too many other ways to stabilize a barrel for long distance shooting, lead-sled, pads, shooting sticks, etc, etc…
Hoot:
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Wow :hoot: , you told me you were done with the rain bow forum……………….I guess not. :suprisedn: