Mystery Box!!!
Wife called to tell me that a mysterious box was delivered home!
I arrived and saw it. Was waiting for it for long time
I opened the box and it’s love at the first sight!!!
It’s my new 25 Cal Vulcan!
Now the discovery journey will start!
All Replies
EDITED TO SHOW SCREW REPLACEMENT WEB SITE AND SCREWS ORDERED…
Awny, my son…I am but 5.5 hours away if you live in the Metroplex area of Dallas/Ft. Worth. My daughter lives in Grapevine.
Here’s my wisdom for you suckle on as you absorb the responsibility of a new Vulcan .25 pcp:
1) DO NOT put a picatinny rail on the forearm. The forearm is slated in an upward angle and nothing attached to the picatinny rail will align with the barrel or aim point.
2) The tiny 3mm hex screws used will strip easily. When removing them, push your NEW 3mm hex wrench down firmly and hold it down firmly when twisting the screws out. Don’t over-tighten them…just snug, then a bit more. They stay put. Also, I’ve had the heads break off mine, so use a light touch. Should you screw up…go here: http://www.metricscrews.us/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=13_216 AND…here’s the screws I ordered: (Note I ordered Phillips Head replacement screws and I replaced every hex head screw on the outside of my gun)
M3x16mm Zinc Flat Head Machine Screw #10601
M3x5mm Black Oxide Flat Head Phillips Machine Screw #20820
M3x6mm SS Flat Head Machine Screw #10111
3) John Hagan (Hagantool@aol.com) makes a “must have” ldc adapter that replaces the end cap on the shroud. It permits use of a 1/2 X 20 LDC (think DonnyFL for what you need in that department), as you will find this gun is noisy.
4) The “ping” can be easily controlled with a 5/8th X 3/8th grommet put on the hammer spring. Easily done and many details on how to earlier on this forum.
5) There can be vent holes put in the shroud which will reduce the air pressure being pushed through the baffles. They won’t eliminate the noise, but will offer relief. Hagan’s adapter, DonnyFL’s ldc, and the grommet will bring it down to nicely quiet and neighbor friendly. The .25 will never be “silent” because it is simply pushing too much air. I’ve been in contact with Neil Clague about a 1,5″ over-sized ldc. He can make one, but be certain you really need one first. It looks a bit strange/large. I might try one and see how it works…report to follow if I do it.
6) The hammer spring adjustment won’t make major differences in fps. You can screw it in until your velocity starts to go down, then you back it off to attain the higher velocity. You will need a chronly to do this.
7) Expect velocity to gradually drop as the valve/reg/hammer get seated and settled. No problem maintaining the mid to upper 800 fps, but the earlier 900+ fps will gradually decrease over time and settle down in the 800’s. That’s not a bad thing. You can always adjust the reg to a higher bar setting and expect a lower shot count but higher fps/fpe. If you can’t drop whatever you are shooting with 50 fpe, then you really need to check out a .30 caliber and it’s 75-90 fpe potential.
8) Expect that last 1/4″ when cocking the bolt to be hard to push…that’s the pellet going past those O-rings in the breech. It’s not a problem…just know what causes it and be satisfied that you are getting a really tight pellet seal to the barrel and transfer port.
There’s probably more, but my supper is ready. Perhaps others can jump in and add what they know.
Hoot:
PS: I love this gun.
Words of a Master ya Hoot!!!
Great summary and coverage!
Thanks for pointing out not to install rail on the forearm. I been considering it and concerned about the slope. Hmmm there goes my bipod. What do you use for long shots stability!
:hoot:
EDITED TO SHOW SCREW REPLACEMENT WEB SITE AND SCREWS ORDERED…
Awny, my son…I am but 5.5 hours away if you live in the Metroplex area of Dallas/Ft. Worth. My daughter lives in Grapevine.
Here’s my wisdom for you suckle on as you absorb the responsibility of a new Vulcan .25 pcp:
1) DO NOT put a picatinny rail on the forearm. The forearm is slated in an upward angle and nothing attached to the picatinny rail will align with the barrel or aim point.
2) The tiny 3mm hex screws used will strip easily. When removing them, push your NEW 3mm hex wrench down firmly and hold it down firmly when twisting the screws out. Don’t over-tighten them…just snug, then a bit more. They stay put. Also, I’ve had the heads break off mine, so use a light touch. Should you screw up…go here: http://www.metricscrews.us/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=13_216 AND…here’s the screws I ordered: (Note I ordered Phillips Head replacement screws and I replaced every hex head screw on the outside of my gun)
M3x16mm Zinc Flat Head Machine Screw #10601
M3x5mm Black Oxide Flat Head Phillips Machine Screw #20820
M3x6mm SS Flat Head Machine Screw #10111
Here’s somemore I ordered from Ebay and worked fine! http://www.ebay.com/itm/391268706436?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
3) John Hagan (Hagantool@aol.com) makes a “must have” ldc adapter that replaces the end cap on the shroud. It permits use of a 1/2 X 20 LDC (think DonnyFL for what you need in that department), as you will find this gun is noisy.
4) The “ping” can be easily controlled with a 5/8th X 3/8th grommet put on the hammer spring. Easily done and many details on how to earlier on this forum.
5) There can be vent holes put in the shroud which will reduce the air pressure being pushed through the baffles. They won’t eliminate the noise, but will offer relief. Hagan’s adapter, DonnyFL’s ldc, and the grommet will bring it down to nicely quiet and neighbor friendly. The .25 will never be “silent” because it is simply pushing too much air. I’ve been in contact with Neil Clague about a 1,5″ over-sized ldc. He can make one, but be certain you really need one first. It looks a bit strange/large. I might try one and see how it works…report to follow if I do it.
6) The hammer spring adjustment won’t make major differences in fps. You can screw it in until your velocity starts to go down, then you back it off to attain the higher velocity. You will need a chronly to do this.
7) Expect velocity to gradually drop as the valve/reg/hammer get seated and settled. No problem maintaining the mid to upper 800 fps, but the earlier 900+ fps will gradually decrease over time and settle down in the 800’s. That’s not a bad thing. You can always adjust the reg to a higher bar setting and expect a lower shot count but higher fps/fpe. If you can’t drop whatever you are shooting with 50 fpe, then you really need to check out a .30 caliber and it’s 75-90 fpe potential.
8) Expect that last 1/4″ when cocking the bolt to be hard to push…that’s the pellet going past those O-rings in the breech. It’s not a problem…just know what causes it and be satisfied that you are getting a really tight pellet seal to the barrel and transfer port.
There’s probably more, but my supper is ready. Perhaps others can jump in and add what they know.
Hoot:
PS: I love this gun.
back to the box, I AM SURE YOUR MISSUZ was thinking it is something for HER. (Christmas preparations and so on)
hehe :rofl:
I just told her this was my new $200 BB gun!
Coward!
I take a coward with a Vulcan in his hand over a brave with a Daisy! :rofl:
Jokes aside she knows about my expensive hobby.
back to the box, I AM SURE YOUR MISSUZ was thinking it is something for HER. (Christmas preparations and so on)
hehe :rofl:
I just told her this was my new $200 BB gun!
Coward!
You should see the hole for it between the safety slide mounting screws and an even tinyer hole in the slide itself. I thought that tinyer hole should have been bigger but it workd real good with the tiny ballbearing.
Thanks for pointing out this missing piece Lurker
I think its easier for me just to buy the ball and spring and put them together. From the whole size 0.16″ i think 1/8″ ball will fit fine. Until then I wont rely on safety which I used to from my cricket anyway.
back to the box, I AM SURE YOUR MISSUZ was thinking it is something for HER. (Christmas preparations and so on)
hehe :rofl:
I just told her this was my new $200 BB gun!
Awny, if you can’t find it you should email the factory and explain what you need. It’s not listed or shown in my manual.
You should see the hole for it between the safety slide mounting screws and an even tinyer hole in the slide itself. I thought that tinyer hole should have been bigger but it workd real good with the tiny ballbearing.
I am sure you can buy some spring off ebay…
back to the box, I AM SURE YOUR MISSUZ was thinking it is something for HER. (Christmas preparations and so on)
hehe :rofl:
No ball bearing and no spring!!! ❓ ❓ ❓
Awny, under the safety slide is a tiny detent ball bearing and spring. Mine holds the safety nicely in the on position and is easily pushed forward with the back of the trigger finger. If you removed the slide completely like I did for light honing, check out that area with a strike tack magnet. Oops, probably get in trouble if you research strike tack as they are like a 3 sided dagger, forbidden by international agreement. Oops, I didn’t mention 3 sided dagger either, did I 😳
I can put safety easily even when hammer is not cocked. However I have a different concern. The safety is relatively lose. I verified that if I hold the gun vertically and shake it a bit (like may happen during a walk in the hunt), the safety could drop to the fire position. This is VERY BAD. I opened the trigger assembly to reach the screws holding the safety. If I tighten it little more the slide would be unmovable. I tightened it a tiny bit just to allow to move but with enough friction to make sure it holds well against its own weight. However after operating the safety back and forth few tens of times it get back to become lose enough that I would not trust it against a vertical shake.
What am I doing wrong?
Tried detaching the rod from the action assembly but does not seem possible. Only side seems to be free while its held by the other.
What am I doing wrong?
Just do it ! Nothing is held by the one nor the other. Yank it like a ….. Well – a Yank.
Seriously: just spread them.Damn it , i can’t get this sound serious but i am serious about this. It’s designed to come apart.
Got it Ville. It sure felt as if it gonna snap but it comes apart nicely with more spreading.
BTW, in case something went wrong (general question), who sells parts for vulcan?
Tried detaching the rod from the action assembly but does not seem possible. Only side seems to be free while its held by the other.
What am I doing wrong?
Just do it ! Nothing is held by the one nor the other. Yank it like a ….. Well – a Yank.
Seriously: just spread them.Damn it , i can’t get this sound serious but i am serious about this. It’s designed to come apart.
Awny both cases are nice. Looks like nice… Happy shooting without troubles.
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I’m not quite getting the problem with a rail and bipod. Works great on mine.