Ranger 45
Well I have a tracking number for the Ranger 45 that was assembled, test fired, chronyed, and shipped today.
28 inch barrel, standard stock and black crerakote finish, $1230 dollars including shipping.
To early to get the arrival date, it is not in the system yet.
Chrony numbers were:
Round ball. low setting 3000 PSI……1018 FPS
225………. low setting 3000 PSI……..877 FPS
405 shot 1 hi setting 4500 PSI………804 FPS
340 shot 2 hi setting 4500 PSI………843 FPS
These numbers will improve by 30 to 50 FPS as the rifle breaks in.
Regards,
Roachcreek
All Replies
You mean we can take you out with some spray paint?
Good to know 😀
Jerry,
3 in one oil has been around since… well I used it as a kid, and we all know I am so frigging old.
I bought some transmission fluid when I could not find the Pellgun oil here, so I have lots of it left.
The Moly has the advantage of not picking up dirt like a wet oil will, something very important to me when I am stumbling around blind from spraying it in the first place. 😯
In 20001 I shot in the SASS Championship Long Range Black Powder Rifle match, I had won it in 2000 so I was raring to go. First course was a offhand hunting shoot at steel targets and various ranges, I was selected to spray [paint the targets, I did not know about the connection with my headaches and spray paint yet.
While spraying the targets I noticed the tell tale sign of a migraine coming, missing spots of vision, as they grew, what was left of my vision was futher fucked up by the massive migraine aura that came. I have only one eye, my right one, I lost the sight in my left one during a migraine.
I squinted, and shot the course with 500 grain slugs in pain that was indescribable, I took third place, but missed the rest of the days shooting while trying to meditate the pain away in a competetors motorhome.
I later learned that pretty much all powder burners give me the migraines due I guess to the change in air pressure they create, I used to get one after every long range black powder match. Airliners do the same to me, it will be interesting to see if the Big Bore air rifles do the same.
All thanks to a angry black man in a riot who tried to kill me because I was a white cop. Note: I realize some of you may not agree with that statement, but not knowing the facts quite as well as I do, piss off.
Thanks,
Roachcreek
RC,
I’m sure you could test to be sure but I doubt that spray moly is worth the bother. Especially, if you have an allergy or hypersensitivity to the chemicals in the can (and you clearly do if they blind you!). What’s worse is that additional exposure to allergens often results in increased sensitivity. I would not bother with the moly.
For years Gary Barnes just used 3 in 1 oil to lightly lube his slugs and occasionally swab his barrels. We both use the cheap power steering fluid now as it doesn’t dry out like the 3 in 1 will. It still has enough aromatics in it to keep o-rings from “drying out” and enough lubricity to keep trigger levers and pins and barrels lubed and corrosion free.
The lube on an airgun slug is just there to delay barrel cleanings from infrequent to hardly ever. It does not have to contend with hot gas sealing or lead that has just been heated by a 40kpsi burn. That’s why I get annoyed by some guys that try to extend everything they read about PB casting and lubing etc to airguns. The dynamics and mirco-environment of a airgun shot (even an exceptionally strong one) are just different and most of the time, when a PB caster or barrel maker comments on airgun stuff…it’s just stuff he heard. Sometimes I look up these references to guys that are clearly experts at black powder or pistol slug casting and in the middle of a really good 5000 word lesson on casting slugs for a lever rifle or whatever, they’ll have one sentence about an airgun slug or barrel. Naturally, that’s what get’s quoted on air forums when the author never meant to write a treatise on our specific needs…
Your not the first to offer that advice, so it must be the way to go if I was to do it.
Tom at Accurate molds says he has a mini wreck on hand, it appears the last molds he has sent out in recent days have all done this.
He expalined that the screw is not supposed to move, it is supposed to be bonded to the mold, but that the sprue plate is seizing on the screw and breaking it loose.
I am sending it back for him to fix, with great relief that I am dealing with a man that honors his work.
Needless to say I really like that bullet, and want to continue shooting it.
So is that Long Tom of yours still in Kansas? It will then go to Colorado at a rate of travel that will make you swear it is on a fucking mule train, an then spent the night in Salt Lake City, Utah, been there done that with tracking. 😆
So back to the post office this moring to ship the mold out.
Regards,
Roachcreek
HA ! HA ! Charlie it’s funny you mention long Tom -i have a OLD Marlin long SUPER LONG shot gun-single shot 3 inch mag with the clip , that i use to reach out and touch those bird that think they have got away ! HA ! HA ! my dad gave me the gun when i was 10
i should have just over nighted that gun and spoiled myself , 😆 but i will use the extra money for bullets instead 👿 , and keep the evil count down going ! 😈
ya those over 700 fpe numbers are cool right out of the box , should be able to get that number up over 800 real easy after break in and a bit more grain like a 500 plus ! ! 😆
good to hear the guy is going to fix that mold , how much did it cost you ? and do you have the contact info for those guys , i may just go ahead and get one of those since it worked so well in your gun .
Slayer,
Yes it does help when they admit there is a problem and then stand behind their work.
It had been 6 years since I had cast bullets, and in the back of my 61 year old mind, which is blurred by age and too many concussions, I kept thinking, did I have a brain fart and fuck this up?
I have in my mispent youth, messed up two molds, I read once when I was in my late 20’s or early 30’s that if you tapped the hinge pin while opening the mold, it would knock the out thebullets that tended to stick in the mold easier. It took just a few months to ruin my very first two molds, 357 mold and a irreplacable Ideal mold for the original Keith design, by peening where the alingment pins came together, I kept those two molds forever to remind me of the fact that what you read is not always true.
This one I opened carefully and closed gently with my welders gloves, I also had my old rawhide mallet to hit the sprue plate, I used that mallet on my leather work, and it was still in my leather tools, so I used it on the mold.
It does make beautiful bullets, ever so slightly out of round, which most are to some deegree I think, but they shoot very well unsized as the groups show.
And I really like that Moly lube spray, mainly because I hate to size bullets, and pan lubing or lubing with a lubrsizer is so messy. I just have to be careful and wear a very good respirator to avoid the fumes from the spray vehicle component, it gives me an instant migraine accompained by blindness, something I truely like to avoid. I can’t even begin to get close to rattle can spray paint because of it, or most spray cans of anything that are close to the same chemicals.
I guess that rules out me ever becoming a huffer. 😯
regards,
Roachcreek
Sorry you trouble with mold, happy someone stands behind thier work!
People have problems in life. It is how we all deal with them that makes or breaks our character.
Dan,
Your not the first to offer that advice, so it must be the way to go if I was to do it.
Tom at Accurate molds says he has a mini wreck on hand, it appears the last molds he has sent out in recent days have all done this.
He expalined that the screw is not supposed to move, it is supposed to be bonded to the mold, but that the sprue plate is seizing on the screw and breaking it loose.
I am sending it back for him to fix, with great relief that I am dealing with a man that honors his work.
Needless to say I really like that bullet, and want to continue shooting it.
So is that Long Tom of yours still in Kansas? It will then go to Colorado at a rate of travel that will make you swear it is on a fucking mule train, an then spent the night in Salt Lake City, Utah, been there done that with tracking. 😆
So back to the post office this moring to ship the mold out.
Regards,
Roachcreek
Charlie , how deep is it scored ? if you have a flat surface ,and some wet /dry sand paper,400 , you can wet the paper with it laying down flat on the flat surface and press the the mold flat on top moving it back ,and forth and maybe sand it out keeping a flat surface , if possible .
this is called flat lapping , we do this to aluminum cylinder heads on the 2 stroke motors to make sure they are flat ,when rebuilding , or any other surface you want to check or make flat.
you can use a piece of glass , that is what i use , and this works great because of how flat glass is .
i don’t know if this can work for you , i just thought i would through it out there just in case
The sprue plate will not close over the mold and go into postion for a pour.
The mold is of the design that has a rotating retaining screw to hold the sprue plate, not like the Lyman design that has a screw post that does not move and is secured by a set screw. The Sprue plate on this mold and on my past NEI molds has a screw that turns in and out as the sprue plate swings open and closed and is a press fit connection with the sprue plate.
Problem is that the press fit was evidently not tight enough and allowed the sprue plate to migrate down the screw shaft and eventually made it bind, but not until it scored the top of the mold badly.
I am pretty easy on my molds, closing them and opening them gently with a gloved hand and using a rawhide mallet to hit the sprue plate, so when this happend about 30 good bullets into the life of the mold, I am bummed.
I have emailed Tom at Accurate molds about the problem and I am waiting for the reply.
Regards,
Roachcreek
Well crap……that sucks.
My new mold went tits up today.
The sprue plate will not close over the mold and go into postion for a pour.
The mold is of the design that has a rotating retaining screw to hold the sprue plate, not like the Lyman design that has a screw post that does not move and is secured by a set screw. The Sprue plate on this mold and on my past NEI molds has a screw that turns in and out as the sprue plate swings open and closed and is a press fit connection with the sprue plate.
Problem is that the press fit was evidently not tight enough and allowed the sprue plate to migrate down the screw shaft and eventually made it bind, but not until it scored the top of the mold badly.
I am pretty easy on my molds, closing them and opening them gently with a gloved hand and using a rawhide mallet to hit the sprue plate, so when this happend about 30 good bullets into the life of the mold, I am bummed.
I have emailed Tom at Accurate molds about the problem and I am waiting for the reply.
Regards,
Roachcreek
Congrats DAN H. I’ll be patiently waiting to get word that you got your gun. And you are right, TODAY starts the PAINFUL PART….lol
Oh yeah, please start a new thread when you get yours. PLEASE!! lol
GREAT NEWS ! MY RANGER HAS BEEN SHIPPED ! 😆 😆 😆 😆 😆 😆
Dan tested the gun first 3 shots went like this –
shot 1 = 143 grain round ball shot at 3000 psi low power – 1070 fps
shot 2 = 225 grain hard cast bullet shot at 3000 psi low power – 924 fps
shot 3 = 430 grain bullet shot at 4500 psi high power- 875 fps – 731 fpe
this 36inch barreled gun should gain 40-50 fps after break in of a couple hundred shots ,
this thing looks to be powerhouse monster ! 😈 i just can’t wait to squeeze that trigger ! ! BOOM ! 😆
so now the evil tracking begins 😈 , the evil waiting 👿 sleepless nights 👿
just kidding i am thrilled it is on it’s way 😆 😆
i was able to fix my fill hose for the shoebox today with a new fitting , i have to go in and rebuild the lower cylinder, that i just rebuilt 3 hours of run time ago, do to the burn up i guess 😥 sucks !
i guess the other option is to buy the big expensive air compressor which i may end up doing , in the future , but i want to get this shoebox to where it is more reliable , Dan Mcvey has one now also , so i am thinking if enough of us have them and rack our brains out and do some testing with a few things , and load Tom up with all of the info he will be able to make this machine a lot better than it is right now .
it is a matter of sealing the piston rods ,and better valves on the cylinders, a threaded fitting on the bottom of the billet block- instead of the pushed in nipple with oring that leaks some times , and is very hard to get to , these are the issues that need to be worked on in my opinion ,
the motor ,the gears ,chains , are -or have been very reliable so far , so that part is good.
RC,
PM me your address please. I’ve got a couple things I might ask for you to try out if you’re willing. BTW, have you slugged the barrel to determine an actual groove dimension?
That thing is a monster!!!!!!! 408’rs??
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
Or Kyptonite.