While you’re waiting for your Matadors……..
I thought I would share with you how I coped waiting for my Matadors. It’s a loooong story with a lot to learn. I started this thread back in June 2011 while still waiting, – and oddly enough it became one of the most viewed threads on this forum.
This is how it started:
As it happens, I am the lucky owner of a serious harem of nice guns. And I frequently visit my summerplace on the coast down south in Norway, where weather is the only restriction to my shooting….
Summernights are nice and light with sunset around 22hrs….:
So yesterday I quit Oslo for a few weeks. Fed up with my loooongish waiting for ED and friends to deliver I took 11 members of my harem with me.
Here they are:
As some of you may know, I test and review guns for our Norwegian forum, and this time a comparison of springers is on the agenda….
So go ahead and name them, from left to right…….
And yes. There will be a more in depth test of Lelya 090 who has got new glasses for the occasion…….. 😉
Life is too short to sit put and wait……… 😀
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plus I am a doctor and you know that doctors are like afrodiziac for chicks 😆
She is very nice, Dekan. You are a lucky guy :wink:!
I suppose it’s too late for me to become a doctor 😆
🙂
they do 🙂
But not me, hehe
I stop to smoke just after maybe 1 year of smoking. 😉
buy the way
Clean rust on your rifle screws Zoco and put some ballistol or some oil on it
But doctors don’t smoke do they ??? 😯
😀
– and her name is ???
Pictures please……. 😉
😀
And in this contest the score is: OLDGOAT 100, DECAN 0 (or maybe 1:P )
😀
Heheh, you wana bet?
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/824/21604510208506753141046.jpg/
plus I am a doctor and you know that doctors are like afrodiziac for chicks 😆
Dekan1 Tedd 0 only because I had a same problem, but Tedd is a master here:) Ed is a great Master:)
one more thing Zoco,
On your last pics, when your gun is cocked, I see small problem.
You still dont have enough spring tension to push that rod all way back to cock that mehanism properly. On that last pics you can see small gap (1.5mm) beetwen ‘disc’ and sear. You need to turn few more turns that nut on rod, so rod can push sear all way back to cock properly your gun.
😉
– and her name is ???
Pictures please……. 😉
😀
And in this contest the score is: OLDGOAT 100, DECAN 0 (or maybe 1:P )
😀
🙁 😆
Ok, – EDgun adjustments for “Dummies”:
Removal of stock. Veeeery easy….. 😀 :
Just one allen screw to be removed, – thats all. And btw., – after a few turns you may actually swing the trigger guard out of the way for easy access to the two trigger adjustments screws.
Once stock is removed you should see is something like this (if it does not look like this, – pls call your GP or ED ASAP):
You see the trigger with adjustment screws, you see the rod going back to the sear mechanism that you can clearly see inside the round hole on the left side. And you can see the spring and the nut on the rod just behind the trigger. If you cannot, – this should help:
If you still cannot see the rod, the spring, the nut that controls it’s compression, the trigger and the adjustments screws, – well then I suggest you see your eye doctor immediately and before any further reading…. 😉
The spring is there to push the rod bacwards towards the sear. You control the tension by rotating the nut clockwise to increase or anticlockwise to decrease the pressure the rod is putting on the sear. This pressure has to be hard enough for the sear to engage and hold the hammer once you cock the rifle.
Uncocked the sear mechanism looks like this through our little peeping hole:
When you pull back the bolt in order to cock, – you rotate the disc in the left part of the hole. At a certain stage (when bolt is fully back) that “disc” reveals a notch into which the pressurised rod will push the sear and lock the mechanism. Here it is locked:
When pulling the trigger, the rod is pulled forward slightly and the mechanism releases and your shot is fired….. 😀
Now the reason why my rifle did not cock was because the tension on the rod was not hard enough…… 😉
Fixed by turning the nut that controls the spring tension on the rod clockwise two full turns. That was all…..
Done in less than a minute……… 😆
Once I know what the best position of that nut on the rod is, I may try to fix it by adding another nut (or a locking nut) as Dekan has suggested. I need to experiment a little before though……..
So Dekan 1, OldGoat 0 in this particular contest……. 😀 😉 😀
Any comments……. ???
😀
First try with some ballistol and a scourer..
Worked for me!
Of what may I ask ….???? 😉
only chicks and guns allowed 🙂
About your bolt handle. just polish it.
If you know some dentist, he can do that in 5 min. polish going first with deer skin then with wool brush. It whill shine like a mirror:)
Of what may I ask ….???? 😉
Hehe, maybe, but mine rifle didnt wanted to cock just after 200-300 pellets. Probly that nut(bolt as I call it) on rod is unscrewed during transport and then finally unscrewed after I shoot that 300 pellets.If spring have enough pressure on that nut it will harder unscrew during shooting. But we all know that all that guns is disasembled during transport from Russia and on that journey that nut is loosen. Now I shot 2k pellets and not problem at all.
By the way, thanx for info how to extra adjust trigger 🙂
Now we all have to wait Zoco to finish with his viagra sessions and start to shoot from normal gun not nature gun 😆
and more pics please Zoco 🙂
OK Dekan, I think that we are talking about the same thing, kinda sorta.
If the adjusting nut, on the trigger rod tensioning spring, has unscrewed and let the tension off of the spring, the trigger and trigger rod will not be pushed far enough forward for the sear to engage and hold the hammer. That nut can loosen after the gun has been shot a lot. I don’t think that Loco’s gun has that problem.
My money is on Loco having to turn the allen screw that is closest to the trigger out a little.
I guess that we will have to wait for Loco to quit playing with himself and start playing with his Edguns to find out what needed adjustment! 😯
Only way now is just to screw a bit that small bolt on rod that connect trigger with cocking mehanism. And I dont see any posiblity to do that if you dont remove stock.
OK Dekan, you got me on that one. I was typing while distracted! 😳
You can get a allen wrench into the front trigger screw without removing the stock. It has to go in at an angle but, it will fit. If not, the trigger guard can be removed to adjust the front screw. The stock doesn’t need to be removed.
I did remove the trigger housing and give it a turn out but, I had the whole trigger/hammer housing assembly removed from the gun when I did it. The 2 trigger block screws need removed and the 2 rear screws that hold the trigger “bar” need to be removed also. If it is done this way, the 2 rear screws at the rear of the air reservoir have to be removed and the rear breech block needs to come off also.
Doing it the second way is more complicated on the R3s but, I still like to have the extra trigger slack to adjust with a slightly longer screw. I think that the trigger turns out better doing it that way.
I got you becuase I learn from the best 😆 from you Oldy, hehe
but we are not talking about same thing.
Zocoloco dont want to adjust trigger, his rifle just dont want to cock.
i had totaly same problem and only solution is to remove stock and then on rod that connect hammer with trigger screw few turns small bolt on that rod to better press spring on that rod. Final solution is to put another same bolt on that rod next by that, so they can lock each others.
I had that problem on start, but after I screw it well dont see any problem now,but if I encounter same problem, another bolt is is going on that rod 🙂
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Clean rust on your rifle screws Zoco and put some ballistol or some oil on it
So you spotted that from my pictures !!! 😀
Yes, I was not impressed with that. There’s surface rust on all pins and a few screws as well. Nothing serious, but on a new rifle it shouldn’t be there. So easy to avoid if care is taken, – but this one is dryer than most other new rifles I have seen….. 😥
A little oil from the very beginning would have helped a lot, – and also Silicagel or friends inside the bag before shipment….. 😉
Right now I’m playing with trigger adjustment to see if I can get it where I want it. I want a significant first stage with a short, light and sharp 2nd stage. It is not too easy to achieve. If I don’t want to go through with the shot, – the trigger itself will return to 0, – but the plate it pushes on that pulls the rod, – stays in position immediately before the 2nd stage. So next time I pull the trigger, – the first stage “isn’t” there if you understand me. As a consequence you run the risk of pulling the shot before you actually want to.
Also there are security issues involved in that. There’s no safety catch as you know, – so leaving the riflle cocked is more of a hazard with this gun than most others…….
I am sure I will work it out, – but any hints would be highly appreciated…. 😀