While you’re waiting for your Matadors……..
I thought I would share with you how I coped waiting for my Matadors. It’s a loooong story with a lot to learn. I started this thread back in June 2011 while still waiting, – and oddly enough it became one of the most viewed threads on this forum.
This is how it started:
As it happens, I am the lucky owner of a serious harem of nice guns. And I frequently visit my summerplace on the coast down south in Norway, where weather is the only restriction to my shooting….
Summernights are nice and light with sunset around 22hrs….:
So yesterday I quit Oslo for a few weeks. Fed up with my loooongish waiting for ED and friends to deliver I took 11 members of my harem with me.
Here they are:
As some of you may know, I test and review guns for our Norwegian forum, and this time a comparison of springers is on the agenda….
So go ahead and name them, from left to right…….
And yes. There will be a more in depth test of Lelya 090 who has got new glasses for the occasion…….. 😉
Life is too short to sit put and wait……… 😀
All Replies
– and her name is ???
Pictures please……. 😉
😀
Dekan Wrote:
Only way now is just to screw a bit that small bolt on rod that connect trigger with cocking mehanism. And I dont see any posiblity to do that if you dont remove stock.
OK Dekan, you got me on that one. I was typing while distracted! 😳
You can get a allen wrench into the front trigger screw without removing the stock. It has to go in at an angle but, it will fit. If not, the trigger guard can be removed to adjust the front screw. The stock doesn’t need to be removed.
I did remove the trigger housing and give it a turn out but, I had the whole trigger/hammer housing assembly removed from the gun when I did it. The 2 trigger block screws need removed and the 2 rear screws that hold the trigger “bar” need to be removed also. If it is done this way, the 2 rear screws at the rear of the air reservoir have to be removed and the rear breech block needs to come off also.
Doing it the second way is more complicated on the R3s but, I still like to have the extra trigger slack to adjust with a slightly longer screw. I think that the trigger turns out better doing it that way.
Only way now is just to screw a bit that small bolt on rod that connect trigger with cocking mehanism. And I dont see any posiblity to do that if you dont remove stock.
Dekan and Tedd, – you are stars !!!! 😀
Thanks a million……..!!!
I’ll try tomorrow if time permits and also document with camera and post images here…….
OK ???
Cheers 😀
ED, – you may have a point. So today I went through the bags, the box and all other packing material in detail. To my great surprise there was no sign of “Silicagel” or the like at all. Something that mostly every other qualityproducer include when packing/shipping. I would think including some sort of “moisture-sucker” in the green bag would be a good idea knowing the transporttime that frequently is involved here.
That said, the bolthandle and knob does not show a lot of initial finish/polishing either. You would probably agree to that…. 😉
I have been offered to have the steel quality tested at a lab here to find out the exact quality used, and I may accept that offer out of curiosity…..
Whatever the outcome, – why not use polished stainless steel in that particular part ? We’re not talking several hundred meters of rod in a year anyway. And as this particular part is so visible, – the appearance of it matters to a lot of people. It’s seen as much like a “signature”-part for many, – especially in the UK where I stay a lot…..
Just a few thoughts from my side after having heard/read reactions from others to the matter……. 😉
Cheers
Trygve 😀
The easiest way to fix that problem is to turn the screw closest to the trigger out a little bit till the hammer sear will catch and hold the hammer when you try to cock it. You don’t have to remove the stock doing it this way.
I would remove the stock, take out the 2 screws that mount the front trigger and turn the trigger assembly out one turn. Put the gun back together and try cocking the gun. It should now cock. I would then start turning the front trigger screw in until the gun will not cock. When you get to that point, turn the screw back out a little so it will cock.
Doing it this way gives me more trigger slack to play with and I can get it set where the trigger has just a little movement before I feel it come to the second stage. Once the trigger hits the second stage “notch” just a slight increase in pressure fires the gun.
If you try the second method, you might need a slightly longer screw to get the needed adjustment range. If you use a longer screw, slightly round the end of the screw before you install it. I have done this adjustment on all 3 of my Matadors and the trigger ends up being very nice.
Tedd, I think that this your second way of adjusting trigger is for 2.5? I think that you cannot just unscrew 2 screws at triggger and turn the trigger assembly out one turn because its static now.
Only way now is just to screw a bit that small bolt on rod that connect trigger with cocking mehanism. And I dont see any posiblity to do that if you dont remove stock.
I would go for a brass handle Trygve. It wouldn’t have looked nice with the old black stocks but now the walnut ones are simply begging for a brass handle, IMHO 😀
ED:
Not many would do like you and stand up for your end users like you do…. 😀
And the way you have utilized YouTube for your purpose is exemplary and a lot of manufacturers has a lot to learn from you……. 😉
And steel: I believe you. Having been to Russia many times and done business with people from your country, – I know perfectly well what you’re saying…..
Back to my question: So in theory, – the bolt and handle may be of two different steel qualities ??? 😮
I’m contemplating milling a bolt handlle from stainless or even brass. What do you think ?
Even if someone doesn’t know about this or other forums where he can find so kind friends he, at least, should know my address and can apply directly to me.
As for the material, you, in the West countries just cannot imagine that and hardly possible will believe it but I will try explain how it can happen here, in Russia. For example I need a steel of the definite quality, say St45, I go the the seller and ask for that steel, he sells me the bulk with the stamp it is St45, but when I begin to process it it can be St35 on one side of the bulk and St45 on the other!!! And I cannot do anything with it. So you never know what you buy. The only exception is the duralimin, that is what I order directly from the plant where they melt it and control it carefully.
Ed
I certainly hope you will not continue to see these problems in future. I am sure my little problem can be easily fixed, – but would feel sorry for those who receive a new gun and not knowing about this forum and all the good advice from people here as well as yourself…… 😉
Another question: What is the steel quality used for the bolt and handle ? Is it the same quality in bolt and handle ? I may want to replace my bolthandle as it seems to have been milled from a steel quality which is impossible to bring up to the finish it deserves…..
Cheers
Trygve 😀
The problem was that the guns has to be disassembled for crossing the border, I couldn’t control it 🙁 Now, when the assembling is made in Estonia, I hope we will remove the possibility of such an issues.
Ed
Loco, there are 2 ways to fix your problem. Right now you don’t have quite enough “slack” in the trigger rod.
The easiest way to fix that problem is to turn the screw closest to the trigger out a little bit till the hammer sear will catch and hold the hammer when you try to cock it. You don’t have to remove the stock doing it this way.
I would remove the stock, take out the 2 screws that mount the front trigger and turn the trigger assembly out one turn. Put the gun back together and try cocking the gun. It should now cock. I would then start turning the front trigger screw in until the gun will not cock. When you get to that point, turn the screw back out a little so it will cock.
Doing it this way gives me more trigger slack to play with and I can get it set where the trigger has just a little movement before I feel it come to the second stage. Once the trigger hits the second stage “notch” just a slight increase in pressure fires the gun.
If you try the second method, you might need a slightly longer screw to get the needed adjustment range. If you use a longer screw, slightly round the end of the screw before you install it. I have done this adjustment on all 3 of my Matadors and the trigger ends up being very nice.
Nothing serious, – but:
The other gun, no 2844, – will not cock !!!! 😯
When I pull back the bolt, it will not stay in position but slides forward again….
When I compare the two, it seems the probe in 2844 comes even further back than on 2855, – but still it does not engage…..
I’ve tried over and over again with no luck……
How is this possible ? A brand new gun which presumably has been tested before shipment….??? 😯
ED please…??? 😮
remove stock,
insade of rifle you have rod that connect trigger with hammer, on that rod you have small bolt that press some spring, just screw that bolt a bit to squeeze that spring and you will cock again.
I thinking to put another bolt next by that bolt, to lock each others.
And now another minor problem………. 🙁
Nothing serious, – but:
The other gun, no 2844, – will not cock !!!! 😯
When I pull back the bolt, it will not stay in position but slides forward again….
When I compare the two, it seems the probe in 2844 comes even further back than on 2855, – but still it does not engage…..
I’ve tried over and over again with no luck……
How is this possible ? A brand new gun which presumably has been tested before shipment….??? 😯
ED please…??? 😮
ED, – to blame this on conditions the last few months would be barking up the wrong tree. This is bad finish, – simple and easy:
Not that it matters a whole lot, – but it seems unneccessary as it should be so easy to avoid…….. 😀
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– and her name is ???
Pictures please……. 😉
😀
The pictures he sent me made even a hardened porn addict like me to BLUSH 😳 😳 😳 😳 😳 😳